Bill at home in CHICAGO - Accommodations

I am a lifelong resident of Chicago, but I have had the unique opportunity to stay at many of these excellent hotels in downtown. I personally have enjoyed each and every hotel that I have stayed in. I have also visited many other hotels in the city, but (except for the unique Sofitel), I will confine my reviews to hotels where I have actually stayed.

Quick Tips:

The immediate downtown area includes about 70 full-fledged hotels, with a smattering of properties on the north side (Lakeview and Lincoln Park) and McCormick Place. The tax rate for all Chicago hotels is a robust 14.9 percent.

Any hotel in downtown is within walking distance of zillions of attractions and restaurants. I am always asked if walking in downtown is "safe". Indeed, the big bad city may intimidate the untrained visitor with its urban attitude. However, I always say that as long as you use common sense (for example, do not count your stash of cash in the middle of a busy street), you should have no problems wandering about Chicago.

Best Way To Get Around:

I complain about the CTA (public transportation system of buses and "L" trains), but I still ride it every day. While I may unfairly compare it to exemplary public transportation systems elsewhere in the world, the CTA is on the whole a reliable and comprehensive system. If you are hanging around downtown, there are many useful bus and L routes that you can use. Get a CTA transit card that is good for all-day travel for one to five days. There are also various downtown trolley services (some free, some part of a tour) that are geared to tourists.

If you enjoyed my reviews on Chicago accommodations, please take a look at my accompanying articles: "Bill at home in CHICAGO - Activities" and "...Dining" Note that some of my hotel choices will also have descriptions of restaurants connected to them.

I would like to thank my good friend, Chicago architect Marius Ronnett, for sharing many of these wonderful images of my hometown.

This is the older of the two fine Westin properties in downtown Chicago (the other is the Westin River North, near the Chicago River). It occupies a prime location on the Magnificent Mile, just north of the John Hancock Center. The hotel is immensely popular with shopping vacationers and with professional sports teams who are traveling to Chicago for games.

The Westin (now part of the Starwood hotel consortium) has 751 rooms, with 24 suites. It consists of two tower blocks, with one rising 27 floors and the other topping out at 16 floors. It was opened in 1968 and renovated in 2002. It is a hotel that is not too old and yet not too new, a potentially perilous point from a business aspect. However, the Westin still is a fine hotel thanks to company-wide promotional tools like the implementation of "Heavenly Beds" in all rooms. Every new bed is now topped with fluffy sheets and duvets and has a zillion poofy pillows piled on top of it. This gimmick has now been extended to Heavenly Baths and even Heavenly Cribs for traveling infants.

The hotel has its own underground parking garage with its entry along Delaware Place, which is actually where the main entrance is located. The stylish lobby features a spiral staircase and the checkin counter, which can get busy. The guest rooms have the usual amenities like minibar, coffee maker, iron and ironing board, and the star of the show, the Heavenly Bed. Some of the rooms face east towards Lake Michigan. Guests will appreciate the nice bathrooms with marble surfacing.

The hotel has a fitness room on the third floor, and its meeting rooms have been garnered with awards. The Grill on The Alley, which creates its spin on American dishes, has received its share of compliments. Of course, you have a wealth of dining choices around the hotel, not to mention some of the most famous shopping institutions in Chicago (Water Tower Place, Bloomingdale's, etc.). The Westin is a fine property, but it is the superb location that sells it. When it is nice out, the plaza of the John Hancock Center serves as a surrogate front porch to the hotel.

This is one of the two wonderful Westin hotels in downtown Chicago (the other is the Westin located along North Michigan Avenue), but it still has a bit of an identity crisis. It debuted in 1987 as the well-respected Hotel Nikko, and it has done its best to maintain its Japanese atmosphere. It is frequently compared to the Renaissance Hotel, which is on the opposite side of the Chicago River. Both are very fine hotels, but while the Renaissance has a brighter and more flowery design scheme, the Westin River North has a darker and more contemporary design flair. Also, the upscale Westin River North (now part of the Starwood company) is not to be confused with the budget Best Western River North about five blocks away.

The hotel, which was renovated in 2002, has 20 floors with 424 rooms and 17 suites. The main entrance is along the north face of the hotel, from a driveway connecting Dearborn and Clark. The dark interior of the lobby is quite striking when you enter. Workers in the building next door were known to take power naps in the relaxing lobby seating area, but that practice is now definitely frowned upon. Just like its partner hotel on Michigan Avenue, the Westin River North features the "Heavenly Bed" with lots of pillows and thick comforters. Each guest room is very comfortable, and chock-full of amenities like minibar, coffee maker, iron and ironing board, fluffy bathrobe, etc. The rooms with a south view face the Chicago River.

There is a decent fitness room in the hotel. There is a charge to use the room, but they can supply a workout outfit if you need one, and you can use the services of a personal trainer too. Dining choices include the Celebrity Cafe, the Hana Lounge, and the Kamehachi Sushi Bar. Across from the elevators there are private glass booths with pay phones and chairs. Escalators lead downward to some nice meeting rooms. A bank of glass windows along its south facade fronts a pleasant riverside promenade. Noted architect Kenzo Tange designed a quiet rock garden, which is virtually unknown to most people. The rock garden is gated, but the door is usually left open.

Although the location may not be right in the middle of things like at the Michigan Avenue location, I like the Westin River North a little better as a hotel. Its location along the river is still quite a good one, as you are essentially between the River North and the Loop areas.

This hotel seems to be a bit away from the action, but it is kept at near-capacity levels by many conventions and functions held at the Apparel Center below and the nearby Merchandise Mart. As it is, the hotel is just a few blocks west of Michigan Avenue and just north of the Loop.

Opening in 1976 and renovated in 1998, the Mart Plaza has 521 guest rooms. Take the elevator to the atrium garden lobby on the 15th floor to check in. You will get a high floor with a decent view here, as the hotel rises ten floors above floor 15. Ask for a corner room for a bit more space, but this usually costs a few extra dollars. The average room is nothing too fancy but not too bad either. The rooms are just that - average. But again, they are extremely in demand because of the crush of visitors going to the Merchandise Mart and Apparel Center. The interiors have the standard Holiday Inn look, with inoffensive and stain-resistant colors and patterns. Note that the closet in each room is an exposed space as opposed to an actual closet with doors, so someone who feels "above" this type of room should take note. Typical amenities include iron and ironing board, hair dryers, and coffee maker.

The guest rooms surround an interior atrium, which overlooks the lobby area and a decent bar and restaurant (Brio). The hotel does have an indoor pool and a small workout room. The pool is very popular with the kids, so good luck on having a relaxing dip in the water here. In case you need to park your car, the parking costs in this area are less expensive than most areas in downtown Chicago.

There is nothing wrong with staying at the HIMP, as it is actually a better than average Holiday Inn. I believe that unless you really want to be connected to the Merchandise Mart (the two buildings are linked at the second floor by a skybridge over Orleans Street), you can do much better as far as hotel location, quality and price. Note that this is not the same hotel as the Holiday Inn City Center that is close to Navy Pier.

This is a very nice hotel with an enviable position at the foot of North Michigan Avenue. The property is pieced together from several buildings and additions. I personally like the older tower, which originally opened in 1929 as the Medinah Athletic Club. This Art Deco tower is brimming with character and charming touches that you may not get in the newer rooms. When you are not in your room, browse around the public and not-so-public spaces to see some elaborately designed spaces uncommonly seen in today's ultra-modern hotels. Many of the meeting rooms and waiting areas have different motifs, from King Arthur suits of armor to Spanish tiles around a trickling fountain. Look upwards and gaze at the interesting column capitals in the piano bar area. Check out the galleries of historic photographs that depict the unique bulbous dome of the tower surrounded by the old Chicago skyline and a flying dirigible.

The high-rise hotel has 41 floors and 807 rooms. The lobby area (along with all guest rooms) was remodeled in 2001 to be more efficient. The lobby design is moodily slick if not particularly memorable. The guest rooms are very comfortable and chock-full of amenities befitting a hotel of this caliber. I was fortunate enough to stay in a corner room, which is larger than the standard room. Many rooms will have wonderful views of Michigan Avenue or Lake Michigan. Each bathroom feature old-fashioned faucet handles in the sink, a nice touch in what otherwise is a fine and modern facility.

The pseudo-Roman indoor pool is one of the most elaborate ones in the city, perhaps in the country. It was actually filmed in several movies over the years. There is a charge to using the fitness center and the pool, but it does not hurt to drop by for a look. Zest is a slick new restaurant that is the hotel's current addition to the popular North Michigan Avenue corridor.

The Inter-Continental is one of the premier older Chicago hotels because it has tried very hard to preserve its idiosyncratic artistic qualities while creating contemporary and functional spaces around them. After all, this is still a hotel, not a museum.

Formerly the Regal Knickerbocker, this elegant old hotel still has a certain amount of charm and a good location just a half-block east of the Magnificent Mile. Thanks to its change in ownership in 2001, this 1927 property underwent an overall renovation that keeps it competitive in the fierce Chicago hotel market. I like to refer to it as a "mini-Drake", which is a complimentary reference to its grander and more prominent neighbor across the street.

The Knickerbocker has 14 floors and 305 rooms, but it has the feel of a smaller boutique property. The main level is clearly laid out, with the check-in counter, elevators, concierge desk, and luggage desk all in plain view. The main entrance is flanked by Nix, a contemporary bistro restaurant of some renown, and the hotel's very popular martini bar, complete with jazz piano and book nook.

Try to get a room facing north with a partial view of the lake. Since this is an older property, the rooms are average in size at best. The standard rooms have elegantly appointed beds, each with a semi-reflective decorative headboard that you will find precious or hideous depending on your tastes. Other furniture pieces (desks, chairs, etc.) can also be declared quaint or old-fashioned. The cozy little bathrooms may alarm those who like large modern bathrooms, with limited counter space even by a man's standards. The minibar is basically an in-room vending machine, so forget about storing your own refreshments or medicine in it. Well, at least the beds are quite comfy!

There is a small workout room that is complimentary for all guests. A small shop sells essentials and treats on the main floor across from the front desk. Pick up some brochures, or try an apple from one of the complimentary fruit bowls on the counters.

The Millennium Knickerbocker is not for everybody, but it is a nice older property for those who enjoy its stylish flowery qualities.

The Palmer House, now flying the Hilton flag, is one of the legendary old Chicago hotels. Located in the middle of the Loop, the Palmer House dates all the way back to 1871. Its 23 floors hold 1718 rooms, making it one of the largest hotels in the city. The property underwent a renovation in 2002. Its downtown location is convenient for vacationers who want to attend the bang-up fireworks displays or visit nearby museums.

The first floor has a shopping arcade that links three major downtown streets (Monroe, State, Wabash). Unfortunately, the airline offices that used to be here are now closed, the result of massive budget cuts amongst the major airlines. Take the carpeted stair, elevator or escalator to the main lobby on the second floor. The lobby's beautifully painted ceilings may evoke impressions of Italian palaces. The lobby is a classically grandiose space that is a dying breed. The checkin line can be long when there is a big convention in town. Even if you are not staying here, stop in and have a rest on one of the cushy and clubby seats. There is a concierge desk where you can pick up a few tourism brochures. Public restrooms and pay phones are located past the checkin counter. This hotel has the most pronounced security staff on the premises from my observations of Chicago hotels, so guests should feel safe and secure.

As you can imagine with a hotel from the 19th Century, the decor is very flowery and conservative. The interior hallways from the elevator bank to the guest rooms can be lengthy. The rooms are smaller than today's average size, again due to the era of the building. The rooms are comfortable enough, though you may still see some wear and tear here and there. Each room has a minibar, coffee maker, iron and ironing board, etc. The rooms along the east side can be a bit noisy, as the CTA "L" tracks run on the Wabash Avenue side.

There is an indoor pool and fitness room with steam room and sauna that can be used by guests for a fee. The hotel has several restaurants, including the pseudo-Polynesian Trader Vic's, the French Quarter, and the Big Downtown (now there's an awkward name) that spills out onto Wabash Avenue as an outdoor cafe during the erratic Chicago summer. The "L" rumbling by every few minutes probably adds to the urban ambiance of dining al fresco. There is also a lobby bar next to the main lobby.

The Palmer House Hilton is a good place to stay if you want a "turn back the clock" stay in downtown Chicago. If you are a demanding business traveler who needs something bigger, larger, more modern, try another hotel.

The Renaissance Hotel was once known as the Stouffer, but it is now part of the Marriott chain. It is a bland-looking high-rise on the outside, but on the inside it is a perfectly fine and elegant property. The hotel opened in 1991, but it seems to have been part of the Chicago hotel scene for many more years (by the way, this is a compliment).

Most people are dropped off at the main entrance with its covered cul-de-sac driveway, which comes in handy during inclement weather. There is underground valet parking next to the driveway, but as we all know it is very expensive to park a car in downtown Chicago. There are almost always a few taxis waiting in front of the hotel in case you need one. Its location at the north edge of the Loop and near the Chicago River is especially suited for the downtown business traveler. Checking in at the front desk in the main lobby is usually painless, and the concierge counter and luggage storage areas are all centrally located. I find the staff to be professionally cordial here.

The Renaissance has 27 floors and 553 guest rooms, with some of them larger rooms on the top-level club floors. The elevators zip you up to your room. Its neutral interiors have a flowery pleasantness that will basically not offend anyone. The very comfortable rooms are rather spacious, with a small sitting area including a small sofa (NOT a sofabed) and a glass table. Bay windows overlook some nice urban views. Amenities include minibar, iron and ironing board, coffee maker, hair dryer, nice toiletries, and fluffy white terry bathrobes. Each bathroom has a small nightlight at the floor level when the regular lights are turned off. The closet has a light that turns on when the doors are open.

Vacationing guests will certainly enjoy the many features of the Renaissance. There is an indoor pool, jacuzzi and a decent fitness room on the fourth floor that is free for guests. You can lounge on one of the beach chairs, gaze out at the Chicago Theater marquee, enjoy a can of juice or a piece of fruit from the complimentary snack area. There are a couple of dining establishments in the hotel and along the retail concourse that can be reached through the back entrance. A Kinko's copy shop and a Bank One branch are also in this arcade.

The Renaissance may not be as distinctive or quirky as other hotels, but I have stayed here several times and it is always an enjoyably comfortable experience here.

This is a nice extended-stay property that flies under the Marriott banner. Each room is basically a corporate apartment geared to people who may be staying in town for a few days or weeks. Some are like studio apartments, while some have closed-off bedrooms, but each guest room has a full kitchen in it.

Virtually unknown to most people, the Residence Inn has a good location only a block east of North Michigan Avenue. Opening in 1991, the property has 221 suites. After checking in at the front desk, take one of the two elevators to your room. The interiors are tastefully comfortable if a bit on the bland side.

Each guest room has one or two beds, a queen-size sofabed, cable TV, bathroom with minimal toiletries, and an open closet space facing the bathroom door. The large kitchen features a full-size refrigerator (NOT a little minibar) with icemaker. The fridge is empty so you can put anything in it (or you can have it stocked by the grocery shopping service if you are too busy). There is also a microwave, stove, coffee maker, and cabinets and drawers filled with dishes, glasses, pans and silverware. Yes, it is a regulation kitchen! Note that this is a limited-service property, so no endless room service here. After all, do you have 24-hour room service at your home? Whether you call it an apartment or suite, it is roomy enough to host a few guests for a little gathering.

All guests can enjoy the complimentary breakfast buffet on the lower level next to the front desk. As in most Residence Inns, there is a waffle grill with which you can make your very own waffle with a pre-measured cup of batter! Pick up a free newspaper and watch TV while you have breakfast, or get a table by the window for a slight view of Walton Place. Cocktail hours are held here on weekdays. If you eat too much, try the small fitness room. If you really need a swim, you can use the pool at the Marriott, which is about a mile away on Michigan Avenue.

Even if you are not staying for a long time, the Residence Inn is like your home away from home. It has a great location near many restaurants and tourist attractions, but it is just off the main drag so it is not a noisy area.

This large and shiny convention-style hotel stands proudly and a bit aloof along the north bank of the Chicago River, just a bit away from the madding crowds of North Michigan Avenue. If you are staying here during a convention, there very well could be a few crowds here too. The Sheraton is now part of the Starwood consortium.

The Sheraton, with a creamy and somewhat curvy exterior that gives off the impression of a corporate bastion, opened to some fanfare in 1992. Since it has 1209 rooms on its 34 floors, the hotel created many jobs for locals. A renovation in 2000 gives the interiors a healthy and new look to them. Because of its potentially confusing address (the name of the street is North Water; the direction of the street is East), no one in town refers to the Sheraton by it. Just east of Columbus Drive, the hotel is a long block east of the NBC Tower and is gaining neighbors by the day in the form of other hotel and condominium blocks, restaurants, and even a 21-screen movie mega theater. A nearby plaza is frequently used to host lively arts and crafts fairs in the summertime.

Checking in can be a tedious process, as you can imagine dozens of people in line. The front desk staff does its best to keep things moving along, and there is plenty of luggage storage in case you arrive early or are staying late. The lobby is enormous, with a bar and a good amount of seating. The multitude of windows here overlooks the Chicago River.

Our comfortable standard room had two double beds, two chairs and a writing desk. The southern exposure allowed for a spectacular view of the river, the lake, the skyline, and even the moon at night. Amenities include cable TV, minibar, clock radio, ironing board and iron, coffee maker, and a tiny safe in the closet. The spacious bathroom had ample counter space, but the shower curtain looked like it had seen better days. Be sure to hang the "do not disturb" sign on your door if you intend to sleep late, otherwise you WILL get a knock on the door from housekeeping or security. I certainly heard enough knocks on the doors of neighboring rooms.

The indoor pool and workout room is on the seventh floor. There is an outdoor sundeck here with a nice view over the river and the Centennial Fountain and Water Arc. Dining options include Shula's Steakhouse, one of seemingly thousands of steak places in the city.

If your bill adds up correctly, you can check out automatically through the interactive TV. This feature comes in handy when the hotel is filled to capacity and you want to avoid the conga line leading to the front desk.

The slick Sutton Place Hotel is in the Gold Coast area along popular Rush Street. It is a bit off the track for business travelers, but leisure people will enjoy the hotel's proximity to many shops, restaurants and trendy bars. The Sutton Place is actually the home to the hot Whiskey Bar and Grill, a place to see and be seen whether you are dining on contemporary American cuisine or just pounding down some top shelf liquor.

The hotel debuted as part of the LeMeridien hotel chain in 1988, with renovations in 2000. It is a modern high-rise with 22 floors and only 246 rooms, so there is still the cozy feeling of a boutique property here. After checking in, take one of the two elevators to your floor. The guest rooms have a crisp contemporary design with dark mahogany furniture blending with a periwinkle and taupe color scheme. Each room has amenities like cable TV, minibar, a stereo and CD player, iron and ironing board, bathrobe, etc. The slick bathrooms are quite nice, with a large bathtub next to a stand-alone glass shower stall. Some of the larger suites have balconies or terraces.

The hotel has a small fitness room for guests. There is supposed to be complimentary sedan service to downtown locations during weekdays, which sounds like a nice touch if you want to arrive at your business meeting in style.

The Sutton Place is a rare animal, as it does not belong to any of the behemoth hotel chains. It does have a fiercely loyal clientele who appreciate the modern style of the property, the attentiveness of the hotel staff and the decadent liveliness of the neighborhood.

The best points of the Hampton Inn and Suites are its relatively young age (opening in 1998), its good location in the River North area, and its better than average rooms and amenities.

The exterior of the hotel is rather nondescript, a 12-story cream-colored block with a covered driveway if you are arriving by car or taxi. The interiors are definitely a bit better. The lobby area is quite spacious and has an attractive Prairie-style design (think early Frank Lloyd Wright) that is appropriate for a cozy hotel in the Midwest with 230 guest rooms. A basket of apples is a welcoming touch and a healthy snack for all visitors.

This particular Hampton Inn and Suites is better than the average so-so Hampton Inn that may be found in many suburban locations. The rooms come in various sizes. The standard rooms are nice enough, but the suites are larger in size and have greater amenities such as full kitchens. The suite is not like a posh palace, but it is basically a more spacious standard room. Of course, you will usually pay more for a suite than a standard room. All rooms will feature irons and ironing boards, hair dryers, coffee maker and free local calls.

All guests get to enjoy the "breakfast bar", which is the complimentary continental breakfast buffet served on the second floor. It is a decent spread with sweet rolls, fresh fruit, cereal, yogurt, coffee and juices, but no meat. All guests can enjoy the smallish indoor pool, sauna and jacuzzi.

The Hampton Inn is now part of the Hilton HHonors program if you are a participant. The restaurant connected to the hotel has changed many times over a brief number of years. The current incarnation is called Al Chula''s American Grill, which gets lost amongst the great variety of restaurant choices in the surrounding area.

One of my memories at the Hampton happened when I attended a function here during its grand opening. On our way out, a couple of my colleagues decided to hop in the elevator even though they were going down only one floor. Needless to say, they were stuck in the elevator for nearly an hour! The moral of this story is that if you are headed out after finishing your breakfast buffet, take the stairs down! The exercise is good for you!

This pleasant new-ish hotel is part of the "Garden Inn" spinoff of the gargantuan Hilton chain. It is at the busy corner of Grand and State in the River North area, adjacent to a major subway station and not far from North Michigan Avenue.

Built in 1999 and already remodeled in 2002, the Hilton Garden Inn is tall at 23 floors but contains only 357 guest rooms and 6 suites. Since this is a new building, the rooms are larger than the standard rooms offered by its sister properties at the older Palmer House and the Hilton Towers. Each of the rooms has exciting amenities like a mini-fridge, microwave and coffee maker, iron and ironing board. The rooms are not fancily decorated, but they are quite comfortable enough. My room had a queen bed with space to move around its entire perimeter. One drawback is that there is no complimentary breakfast here, unlike similar hotels like the Hampton, Fairfield, Embassy, etc. There is something called the "Pavilion Pantry" if you want to buy something to chow down in your room. The Weber Grill Restaurant (yes, you read it correctly) is connected to this property.

The hotel has a tiny indoor pool and jacuzzi for guests. I suppose it is better than nothing. The fitness center is a bit larger, in case you do not have room to do laps in the pool. If you need a better workout, you can go to the nearby Gorilla Sports fitness center for free.

Of course, the Hilton Garden Inn is a member of the Hilton HHonors program.

This brashly colorful hotel is a member of the Kimpton chain of boutique hotels. Formerly the Bismarck Hotel (built 1927), the reincarnation as the Allegro a few years ago is definitely a step up. Noted interior designer Cheryl Rowley redesigned the original Art Deco interiors in 1998. She invented a hip and wildly lively design that liberally utilizes bold colors, fabrics, and patterns. The refurbished Palace Theater (formerly the Bismarck Theater) is next door, so staying at the Allegro is convenient if you are seeing a performance there or at one of several nearby theaters. It is also close to many government and financial institutions and is one of the closer hotels to the Merchandise Mart. You are not far from prime shopping or tourist attractions, but you are not right in the heart of the action.

The Allegro is rather large for a boutique hotel, with 19 floors supporting 483 rooms and suites. The standard rooms are a bit on the small side, but the colorfully bold design of the room distracts you from this fact. Elements like gold duvets with "lipstick red" trim, "grapefruit" wallpaper, cutesy folded drapes, and boldly striped headboards and "seafoam green" pillows are all in the vocabulary. The rooms contain amenities like minibar, iron and ironing board, hairdryer, cable TV, CD and radio boom box, and the all-important complimentary coffee. The bathrooms are also smallish but functional. Some of the larger suites have Jacuzzis, which surprisingly is not a common element in Chicago hotels.

The hotel is connected to the "312 Chicago" Italian restaurant (note that "312" is the area code for downtown Chicago) and the newer Encore bar-restaurant. A complimentary wine hour is held every evening in the lively lobby bar area, filled with plush seating. The hotel has a small fitness room that is free to guests. The hotel has a variety of meeting rooms for business, and there is a gift shop. The hotel also has a pet-friendly policy for guests.

The rooms are very cozy, and most people enjoy the fact that the look of the hotel is so far removed from the ordinary. The hotel seems to be a popular choice with airline crews and artsy folks. Still, I like to say that I would not recommend the Allegro for conservative businessmen or easily shocked grandmother types. Another potential distraction is its proximity to the rumbling CTA "L" trains which run very close to the west side of the hotel. It is not as bad as that scene from the Blues Brothers movie, but light sleepers might want to bring some earplugs.

This moderate hotel, part of the huge Best Western hotel chain, is in a prime location in the River North area. It is the only hotel downtown that offers a free self-parking lot for guests, a fact that should not be dismissed when parking lots are ultra-expensive and street parking is hard to come by. While a businessman may yearn for a fancier hotel that offers a few more services, the Best Western River North is not a bad place to stay at all.

Opened in 1986, the hotel has seven floors and a total of 150 rooms. These rooms can go fast because they are relatively inexpensive for its excellent location in the lively River North area just north of downtown. It is very close to some of the more touristy restaurants (Hard Rock Cafe, Rainforest Cafe, Rock'n'Roll McDonald's, etc.) and is one of the closest properties to the Merchandise Mart. The standard rooms are not fancy but comfortably furnished. Amenities include free in-room coffeemaker, free local calls, free newspaper, hairdryer, and ironing board. Note that the bathroom contains the bathtub and toilet, but the sink is adjacent to (and not inside) the bathroom. The top level features a complimentary workout area and a small indoor pool. Sorry, no pets allowed here.

Pizzeria Ora, a low-key restaurant with Italian specialties, is connected to the hotel. Try the taco pizza, which is a step up from the glorified tostada served at Taco Bell. The pizza crust is actual pizza dough, but topped with your favorite taco ingredients like ground beef, cheese, tomato, lettuce, and onion. This is a change of pace from the heavy Chicago-style deep-dish pizza pie, the tourist favorite that is also touted here. You can also get specialty pizzas like Marina (shrimp, squid, and scallops) and Hawaiian (Canadian bacon, ham, and pineapple). The menu also features sandwiches, pasta, salads, and steaks.

When people first hear the name of this colorful downtown hotel, they may mentally connect it to the restaurant and concert venue of the same name. It is part of the legendary Marina City complex, designed by architect Bertrand Goldberg. His vision during the 1960s was to create a mixed-use complex where people could live, work, and relax within the same area. A rectangular concrete office block and an odd-shaped theater building accompany the two iconic, corncob-shaped residential towers. The office tower has been renovated to become the hotel, and the theater is now the House of Blues club.

This complex resides on an extremely urban site, with metal grating and concrete slabs, along the north bank of the Chicago River. The parking facilities are located within the dynamic cylindrical towers. The hotel has 15 floors and 367 rooms in total. When you enter the exotic but dimly lit lobby area, you will receive your room key and a CD upon check-in. Yes, you are able to keep the compact disc (and play it in your room's CD player), a reminder of the musical concept of the complex. One time I received a blues album, while a second time I received a gospel compilation.

Award-winning designer Cynthia Rowley designed the hotel interiors. She also made her mark on the nearby Allegro Hotel, but toned down the energetic wildness just a notch at this property. The standard rooms are comfortably sized and furnished, with very colorful fabrics, striped wall coverings, boldly framed mirrors, and other accessories. Funky furniture and good-sized beds give off the impression of a bizarre movie set. The playfully loud interiors are said to be derived from Gothic, Moroccan, and Indian influences. Quirky examples of folk art decorate the rooms and the hallways. Fortunately, the rooms are well soundproofed so you can sleep well at night.

While the hotel is fine, it is the surrounding facilities that get much of the attention. The House of Blues is part of a chain of venues that has a loud restaurant, bar, souvenir store, and concert hall. A popular "gospel brunch" holds several Sunday sessions, complete with an old-fashioned buffet spread and a rollicking gospel choir (what a concept, eh?). Other fine establishments here are Bin 36, a trendy wine bar with bistro food, and the notable steakhouse Smith and Wollensky. The funky Kaz Bar is located in the hotel building if you do not want to walk outside a few steps to the other places. If you eat too much and feel guilty about it, you can spend a few bucks for a guest pass to the Crunch fitness center.

While a few old-fashioned people or conservative businessmen may not like this accommodation, the Loews House of Blues Hotel is a fine place to stay and will inspire a smile or two along the way.

This all-suites property is a bit of a hidden gem amongst the dozens of fine hotels in downtown Chicago. It is still fairly new, as it was built in 1990. It has a prime location next to the John Hancock Center, and just a short walk from North Michigan Avenue and the lakefront. The slender high-rise has 30 floors and 345 rooms, each of which is a spacious two-room suite.

Once you check in at the small lobby, you will receive a couple of the famous chocolate chip cookies that are freshly baked at all Doubletree properties (they are usually still warm when you get them!). The main "living room" is separated from the bedroom, so you get two distinct rooms that are desirable if you are traveling as a family or two singles. The main room has a queen-sized sofabed and kitchenette, coffeemaker, iron, and ironing board. There is a large television set in each room. The bathroom is decent-sized and has a hairdryer and something called a "scald-proof" shower-tub. I do not remember scalding myself here, so the mechanism must be effective.

There is a beautiful indoor pool and fitness room on one of the upper levels. Even if you do not take a swim, drop by for some excellent panoramic views of the city.

There are several dining options within the hotel. The best is the Park Avenue Cafe, modeled after a popular restaurant in New York. It has an amazing Sunday brunch that is a bit pricey but worth every penny. It is a buffet, but the many delicious items are paraded on carts by servers and brought to your table. For lighter fare, try Mrs. Park's Tavern, or check out the coffee and pastry shop or bar.

Doubletree is now part of the Hilton "HHonors" club in case you have a membership with that hotel chain.

Embassy Suites is the prototype for hotels that have "all-suites" rooms as a standard. Downtown Chicago now has two Embassy Suites; the newer one is closer to the lakefront while this "Downtown" location is more in the heart of the River North area. The only real difference between the two properties is the locations and the interior design (the Lakefront one has a more modern, slick and glassy look), but conceptually there is not much separating the two.

The red-bricked Embassy Suites Downtown has 11 floors and 358 rooms that surround the interior atrium. Each standard suite has a living area and a bedroom separated by a door, so it is like a one-bedroom apartment. Each room has its own TV. You can get either one large or two separate beds, while the living room has a queen-size sofabed. These rooms are extremely popular with large families or paired conventioners who want to split a room but want their own space too. The window of the bedroom has a city view, but the window of the living area basically looks into the atrium corridor, so it is best to have the shades closed lest every passerby gets a free peek of you in jammies. Each roomy suite includes a minibar, microwave, coffeemaker, kitchenette, iron, and ironing board.

The Embassy is famous for its cooked-to-order breakfast buffet, generally the most extensive complimentary breakfast offered at any hotel chain. It is one of the few hotel chains where you are served meat for breakfast! You can order an omelette, or load up on sausage and bacon, waffles, bagels, yogurt, fruit, cereal, etc. One does not necessarily need to eat lunch after a hearty morning meal here. Almost as famous is the free evening cocktail hour, with complimentary house drinks and snacks served in the main atrium.

The hotel has a small indoor pool, sauna, whirlpool, and fitness room, free for all guests. There is a popular Greek restaurant called Papagus here as well as a Starbucks.

Embassy Suites are now part of the Hilton "HHonors" family. You will not be pampered here, but there are plenty of do-it-yourself luxuries that travelers will enjoy here. The rates are generally higher than other similar suites-hotels (Homewood or Hampton), but you get more for your money here.

The Fairfield Inn and Suites is a fairly new property of the Marriott chain, and it is well located on a side street about one and a half blocks east of North Michigan Avenue. It is a limited-service property, but as long as you do not miss having a lobby bar or an in-house restaurant, you will enjoy staying at this property.

The ground floor lobby has the look of an apartment complex, with a clean minimalist appearance. Since there is no lobby bar, you will basically find the front desk, the elevators, and a few chairs. The hotel has 15 floors and 185 rooms, with a few suites sprinkled amongst the standard rooms. The standard rooms are comfortable, with amenities like coffeemaker, mini-refrigerator, iron and ironing board, hair dryer, and free local calls. Closet space is fairly limited here. Toiletries include only soap and shampoo. In the suites, you get two rooms (living area with sofabed and separate bedroom) with a large TV in each space plus a microwave. A door does not separate the two rooms, but the design allows for enough privacy between them. The suite is not a bad place to have a small party.

A complimentary continental breakfast buffet is served on the second floor. It is not a bad spread, as you can fill up on sweet rolls, cereal, fresh fruit, yogurt, beverages, etc. The tables in the breakfast room can fill up fast when there is a full house at the hotel. There is a small fitness room that is also on the second floor, and there is a stand with some tourism pamphlets. There is no pool in the hotel, but guests can use the pool at the full-service Marriott about four blocks away.

The Fairfield is a fine place for the business traveler on a budget or a small family looking for good value and a clean room in an attractive location. Besides its proximity to North Michigan Avenue, it is not too far from Navy Pier. There is a post office across the street, and of course Ontario Street is a main drag for many restaurants and bars.

French architect Jean-Paul Viguier designed this exciting addition to the Chicago skyline. Part of the Accor chain and sister property to the Sofitel in suburban Rosemont, this property is luxuriously different in design. I have not stayed in this property (yet), but I have taken a tour of many of its interiors. The name "Water Tower" is a bit misleading, as it is actually about four small blocks from the Water Tower landmark. However, you should have no trouble finding this hotel, as its distinctive asymmetrical glass exterior jumps out of the landscape. It looks like a giant triangular glass sculpture, not your typical look for a hotel.

The entrance is through the concave circular niche carved out of the building mass. The lobby area has a lot of razzle-dazzle to it, including a cool glass staircase. The center of the lobby has some cozy seating if you are waiting for someone. The lighting is strikingly set to play off the art objects in the public spaces. The Cafe des Architectes is a noted French bistro with al fresco seating in the summer. Even if you are not dining here, admire the bold interior design and monotone murals of Chicago landmarks. The bar off the main lobby has a library of art and architecture books if you do not want to mingle with the beautiful people.

The hotel has 32 floors and 415 rooms. Since this is a new building, the contemporary rooms are large in size and comfortably colorful in design. If you have money to burn, stay at one of the suites, with furniture that any architect would be proud of. There are excellent views of the city from all the guest rooms. If you are not fortunate enough to be staying here, try to blend in with the crowd and ride the elevators to a high floor and you can take a peek out the windows down one of the hallways.

The Sofitel has a fitness center, but no pool. But who wants to exercise when you are staying in a posh new hotel in an exciting Chicago neighborhood?

Editor's Note: The Claridge Hotel is now under new ownership, and reopened as the "Hotel Indigo - Chicago Gold Coast" on May 16, 2005. For more information on Hotel Indigo, please visit their website.

The Claridge is a bit north of downtown, but that does not mean it is a bad location. It is on a quiet tree-lined street in the moneyed Gold Coast area, filled with fancy condominiums and trendy boutique stores. You are not far from the lakefront, the bars on Division Street, and the storied Oak Street Beach.

This small European-style hotel has 13 floors and 168 rooms. The standard rooms are comfortable if a bit dry in design. There is a minibar, cable TV (including a Japanese station), and free newspaper. Three of the suites have actual fireplaces, while one offers a whirlpool bath. The standard room I had stayed in was fine, but it had a leaky faucet handle that could not be completely shut off. It was only a minor nuisance, as it did not drip but just had a small trickle.

A light continental breakfast is served to all guests in the lobby area. There is a tiny lobby bar next to its two elevators. The Claridge used to have a free stretch limo service in the mornings so you could arrive in style to work or an important meeting, but that has unfortunately been discontinued.

The Foreign Affairs restaurant mixes European and Asian flavors (the hotel has a loyal Japanese clientele, as it is advertised in Japanese publications). I have not been to this restaurant, but its previous incarnation served a pretty juicy steak.

This aged hotel is what I like to call an "historic" property. It is just a glorified way to calling it old. Sure, it had its heyday when it housed political leaders and movie stars, but that was decades ago. It was opened in 1893 for visitors to the Columbian World's Exposition, and was renovated in 1998. Now it serves as a home base for business people on a budget, backpacking Europeans who do not want to stay at a hostel, prom dates, and various touring groups like jazz bands and soccer clubs.

The hotel has 14 floors and 851 simply appointed rooms, including 50 deluxe suites. A standard room is plain but reasonably comfortable; it actually reminded me of my old apartment for some reason, so it is not too bad. The rooms have hairdryers and coffeemakers. Some of the grander suites have marble bathrooms with Jacuzzis. The rooms facing east will have excellent views of Lake Michigan. Clinton J. Warren designed the older north tower, with Louis Sullivan and Dankmar Adler as consultants (they designed the great Auditorium Theater across the street). The south tower dates from 1902-1907 and was designed by the noted architectural firm Holabird and Roche.

There is also a small convention center for large meetings, including the appropriately named Gold Room. The vaulted ceiling of this grand space was designed by William Dodge and meticulously restored by Lido Lippi in 1997 (Lippi's work includes the Sistine Chapel restoration). The Gold Room, which had served as the prestigious site of presidential nominations, is now used mainly for banquets and wedding receptions.

The hotel is across the street from the acoustically famous Auditorium Theater, one of the anchors of South Michigan Avenue (the hotel was actually connected to the theater years ago). You are close to the Buckingham Fountain, Grant Park, and various museums. You are not as close to the shops around North Michigan Avenue, but if you do not feel like walking you can hop on a bus or taxi. It is one of the closer hotels to McCormick Place, which is not saying much because only the Hyatt is connected to this isolated lakefront convention center.

The Congress Plaza mostly makes news nowadays when a water pipe bursts on rare occasions. The walk through the main floor is highlighted by the high-ceiling reception area, but the rest of the floor is dreary as you pass a diner, bar, video game room, and small sitting areas. There is a gift shop on the main level. A small fitness room is located in the basement level.

This quaint and still fairly new suites-style hotel enjoys a good location not far from a subway stop, the bright shops of Michigan Avenue, and is mere steps from the famous Nordstrom store. Its sister property, the Hilton Garden Inn, is only a block west, so do not wind up at the wrong property!

The Homewood emphasizes security for its guests, so here is how it works. First take the elevator to the check-in area on the sixth floor. Any access above this level requires a room key card, so a reservation is a must! The concept of a hotel with security is appreciated, but one may become a bit frustrated at always fumbling for the key card just to activate the elevator. The lobby has a cozy decor reminiscent of a country estate, as does the rest of the hotel. Its duck logo repeats itself on stationery, on signs, and even as potpourri containers. There is complimentary coffee and a fruit bowl in the sitting area.

Each room is like a suite, with a living room that includes a sofabed. The living area flows into a well-equipped kitchen that includes a full-size refrigerator, microwave, sink, coffeemaker, dishwasher, stovetop, and even utensils, pots and dishes. This concept of hotel room as mini-apartment is great for a family on holiday or a road warrior on an extended assignment. The bedroom is separated from the living area by a door, and the bathroom and closet are adjacent to the bedroom. There is a TV in both the living room and the bedroom, and there is also a VCR in the living room. My bedroom had a very comfortable king bed, and there was one (sorry, not two) terrycloth bathrobe along with an iron and ironing board in the closet. The living room is not a bad size, unless you have about 12 people staring at Janet Jackson’s boob on the boob tube. The homely plastic plants actually clutter the rooms, so stick them under the kitchen table if you need more space.

The complimentary breakfast buffet is served on the sixth floor past the lobby area. There is a reasonable range of hot and cold dishes to get you going in the morning if the free USA Today does not. The breakfast room had the feel of an actual restaurant with its variety of sitting areas, such as tables along a window wall overlooking the city to secluded alcoves tucked away from the main traffic. An evening reception is held here on weeknights.

The indoor pool and fitness room are located on the 19th floor. The views are not bad up here, so take a look around even if you are not swimming. Even though there is no Jacuzzi here, it still seemed a bit muggy around the pool. There is a fruit bowl in the fitness room. Remember to bring your room card!

Thanks to Richard Newell for sharing his images of the hotel.