East Village Dining Picks

Once known for its abundance of cheap, arty restaurants, the East Village has been undergoing a slow gentrification in the last decade. The good news is that the restaurants that open in this part of town still tend to have a more eclectic feel than what you get in other parts of the city. The atmosphere ranges from local hole-in-the-wall to upscale, but the vibe is usually friendly and the added bonus of people-watching and great local bars makes this a great destination for the hungry.

Quick Tips:

If you haven't been to New York in a while, addresses like Avenue B may sound sketchy. You'll actually find, though, that some of the most elegant dining to be done in the Village will happen in neighborhoods you used to venture in only by cab.

Best Way To Get Around:

Walking in the Village is the best way to get around. The crowd is youngish and funky, and you'll enjoy the mix.

Shut up and eat it. This is the motto at Mamas, one of the shining culinary gems of the East Village for the budget diner. At Mamas, you'll get some of the best fried chicken and mashed potatoes you ever had, along with more sophisticated fare like their exquisitely prepared thick planks of salmon and garlicky green beans. You can get a meat and two sides (try Mama's Mac Daddy Mac & Cheese) for eight bucks, and one meat and a side or three sides for just seven. !!! They make a smashing homemade gingermint iced tea and a delightful lemonade, as well as coffee (note: Mama doesn't do decaf). This is a small place, with funky portraits honoring Mama decorating the walls. It's BYOB, so pick up some beer at a deli if you want booze. This is a favorite hangout for local arty types. The food yummy, and on par with what you'd get in a joint twice as pricey. You have to experience it to believe it. For take-out and milkshakes, try Step Mama, located across the street. This place can get packed, so be prepared.

Is that a British rock star lounging behind curls of smoke at the next table? Probably. The Great Jones Cafe is a tiny hole in the wall that serves up, hands down, the best Cajun food in the city. The cornmeal-battered catfish is spicey, perfectly crisp on the outside and deliciously juicy on the inside. The garlic mashed potatoes or the collards are the sides to get. For an appetizer, I recommend the Cajun popcorn with spicey remoulade. The meal you'll get here won't be the cheapest you've ever had, but it will be among the best for what you pay. I'd put the catfish above what's served at the famed Blue Ribbon restaurant on Thompson in Soho. Crackling with atmosphere, and a hell of a good time. One of my all time favorite restaurants, this is one my friends from out of town rave about when they go home. Don't miss it (which you can easily do, since there's hardly a sign--look for the bright orange door). They have an outstanding brunch on Sunday, too. Note: they don't take credit cards.

Marion's is a restaurant with a Past.

Once upon a time in the 50's, an intriguing Hungarian-born model and dinner-party hostess named Marion Nagy made this space a magnet for downtown literati, bohemian artists and other people cooler than me. Closed in 1973, Marion's son acquired the space in 1990, taking care to recapture the kitschy chic of his mother's restaurant.

An atmospheric, stylish alternative to the trendy fly-by-nights that have invaded the East Village in recent years, Marion's is perfect for an intimate dinner or a night of fun. I recently had a quiet evening of drinks and appetizers (the fried goat cheese is delicious!) on a chill Sunday and found it perfect for mellow conversation. The service was exceptionally good and the vibe friendly and relaxing.

I liked the place so much I returned on a Monday night and found another side of Marion's--a packed house gathered to dine and be entertained by the inimitable Pontani Sisters. Taking their inspiration from Carmen Miranda, these banana-clad dancers kicked and froliced through the aisles every half-hour or so to the strains of exotic lounge music. Imagine a 50's-Style Kitsch Kabuki.

We started with tasty eggplant canolis topped with shredded cheese on a bed of greens. I ordered the flavorful crab-stuffed chilean sea bass, which comes with a nice helping of delicately whipped garlic mashed potatoes. My friend had a nicely turned-out classic steak au poivre. For dessert, we couldn't resist the Gateau du Mort--choclate cake a la mode with strawberry sauce--said to be Eartha Kitt's favorite. Purrrrfect. Once again our service was top-notch and we had an exceptionally large time.

If you go on Monday, try to score the table in the rear gallery for a great view of the dancing. Cover: $3. There's also a DJ on Tuesday nights.