Colonial Amblings 5 - Queretaro

A December 2002 trip to Queretaro by dlj

Dinner at Restaurant 1810More Photos

Unscheduled ambling about the colonial heartland of Mexico. Indulge in countless cobblestones, ample archways, cascading collonades, offbeat offerings, and great home-grown grub. This is the fifth and final journal covering a recent trip through the colonial heartland: Queretaro. Others include Mexico City, Zacatecas, Guanajuato, and San Miguel de Allende.

  • 3 reviews
  • 5 photos
Dinner at Restaurant 1810
Casual dinner at 1810, evening paseo about the old part of downtown, and getting caught up in a spur-of-the-moment local fiesta. Upscale, but not blatantly 'touristy'. What a tremendous place to see on foot.

Quick Tips:

Bring layered clothing, sunglasses, comfy shoes, hat, sunscreen (or buy all these locally). From home, bring individual UHT coffee-creamers, and of course, the Rough Guide to Mexico (I used the 5th edition and saved a few hundred CDN and discovered things I otherwise wouldn't have). Hunt around for accommodations - it doesn't vary as much by season anymore as it does according to the day's demands - most travel is business related or local tourism for upscale folks from DF. You could easily go bankrupt in no time as there are several fabulous places. Value accommodations are present, but be sure to see the rooms first. Higher-end rooms run from MN-2400; mid-range is from MN-700. Low-end is around MN-350.

Best Way To Get Around:

Regionally: See Colonial Amblings 1 - Mexico City for extensive overall comments on the best ways to get around the region. Queretaro specifics: Walk! Sun can get hot, so a hat is handy, and wear comfortable shoes - although there are those everpresent flat 'cobblestone' streets in many places, things are pretty regular and it is much more consistent to walk around old downtown Queretaro than in the smaller colonial towns.
Hotel Hidalgo is a clean, fairly newly renovated two-story hotel, with an on-site restaurant, in a bustling metropolitan area to the northwest of the historic downtown (actually, it's in the historic downtown, but toward the northwest corner). It has rooms with twin, double, and queen (and presumably king?) beds and "budget suites" for up to six people. Some rooms have a window to the exterior (most open to the courtyard or have small ventilation windows). Prices range from MN$210 to MN$440. The immaculate, darker, smallish rooms are uninspired, but at least have "classic Mexican" decor, a shower, a sink in the bathroom, a ceiling fan, high ceilings, a large TV with lots of channels, an armoire for storage (no hangers), and a toilet that worked superbly (no jiggling, holding down, manual flushing, or weak flushes).

Despite its busy location, the hotel interior and rooms are very quiet. The desk staff is adamantly Spanish-speaking only. There's a lobby phone at the desk, or several Telmex (and a couple Ladatel further away) phones within short walking distance. Major banks with safely designed ATMs are all within 2 minutes' walk or less. Extensive re-tiling is being done on the second floor (as of early December; it will probably be done by the time you read this). The restaurant has pretty good food that's reasonably priced, along with very good service. The hotel is also situated close to an indoor mall market and tons of localized stores and services within short walking distance, all in a reasonably lit, pretty safe area. It's about 2 to 5 minutes' walk from all the noteworthy gardens and parks.

Overall, Hotel Hidalgo offers great prices, clean accommodations, and a great location.

  • Member Rating 3 out of 5 by dlj on March 4, 2003

Hotel Hidalgo
50 Madeira Pte Queretaro, Mexico

Upstairs (Half)
One of the pricier three or four accommodations in Queretaro (MN$940 for a single smoking king with corporate rate), this hotel is located off to the far northeast of the historic center, but only 2 to 4 minutes' casual walk to the Jardin Indepencia. It's in its own price bracket between the mid-priced and nearly outrageous accommodations. It's always 20% to 50% cheaper and much quieter than Marquesa, and possesses nowhere near the snooty quotient of those others. Stay to the west of the hotel at night if on your own, as immediately to the south and east some very unsavory characters emerge pretty early after sunset.

The hotel looks like absolutely nothing from the outside; walk in and you're nearly past the front desk. Five feet further and you're standing in the restaurant, and hop down a short flight of stairs and you're standing in a large, beautiful reproduction courtyard, colourfully but tastefully painted, with nice embellishments and several birdcages along one sheltered wall that provide the ambient sounds you'll awake to each day. The desk staff all speak a little English and tolerate questionable Spanish amiably, and are extremely accommodating (I viewed some rooms at 9pm and checked in at 9:30 the next morning). There are only a few rooms, all done very nicely in "classic Mexican" style, with tasteful lighting fixtures, a practical floor plan, three floors each, and several fully working windows and shades opening to the courtayrd below (no screens). The rooms have showers, sinks outside the bathroom, and all the soaps/shoe mitts/lotions one expects at this price, plus a minibar with snacks, water, liquor, beer, and wine.

My room (room 1) had a sort of drawing room/lounge with bar and fireplace (doubt it works), two large windows and French doors on the ground floor, an open-wood stair to the second floor (which overlooked the floor below and had a large couch and massive armoire), and then the third floor, which took up the whole plan area, with a bed that looked larger than king, a small TV with several channels, an air-conditioner, four large windows to better see the rustic courtyard and hear the birds, a large round table, a grooming area, a couch and chairs, and a safe (you provide the lock). The room was quite clean, very quiet, pretty brightly lit, and designed to be very comfortable.

The restaurant had incredibly good food, with prices just a speck above reasonable and one courteous, attentive waiter (doubling sometimes as the bellhop, too) to serve all six or so tables. It was a fairly short walk to the Alameda and market stalls, or to the trendy shops around the parks, or to other restaurants in the area. And it was always a welcome return to enter the lobby and courtyard and then your comfy room at the end of a long day.

  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by dlj on March 4, 2003

Meson de la Merced
16th September Queretaro, Mexico

About the Writer

dlj
dlj
Mississauga, Ontario

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