Tuscany Unplugged

Sabina is an area located about an hour's drive north of Rome, in the province of Rieti. Like in the Tuscan countryside, Sabina is dotted with walled hilltop towns surrounded by rolling stretches of olive groves and vineyards, has numerous historical points of interest, ancient excavations, great restaurants, and views to die for, but here you can experience the real Italy away from the hoards of tourists and without the commercials.

Quick Tips:

See www.sabina.it or www.bestofsabina.it

Best Way To Get Around:

Having a car is the best way to get around, although walking from village to village is also an option. Trains from Rome, as well as the airport service the area each half hour.

The Vallerosa is a beautiful country estate in the heart of the Sabine Hills. The Villa, a 19th century building overlooks the lush valley below, where a lively organic farm produces extra virgin olive oil, wines, fruits, vegetables, and thoroughbred horses. The English speaking hostess Luciana Pancera relates to her guests with a wonderful sense of humor and is a fountain of information about the area, which she delightfully shares - a true Renaissance woman. The host, Luigi, a retired airline pilot, is the gentleman farmer who will introduce you to his menagerie of horses, donkeys, boars, goats, pigs, ducks, sheep, geese, chickens and rabbits while accompanied by his three dogs and two cats. The guest quarters are beautifully decorated apartments, which include a bedroom,living/dining room with fireplace, kitchen, bathroom with tub/shower and either a private terrace or garden. In addition, the Vallerosa has a community suite, where you'll find an expansive sitting room with a library stocked with literature about travel in Italy.

La Torretta, is a 15th century palazzo, recently restored by the architect/owner/host. Period furniture, beamed ceilings and frescos create a unique and elegant atmosphere. Rooms have breathtaking views, over the terracotta roof tops and landscape. Each en suite room is decorated to perfection, and a full breakfast is served daily. The hospitality that one will encounter is superior!

If you wish to vacation in a place where you can relax, contemplate, and enjoy a quiet few days in beautiful surroundings, then Montepiano, a 16th century palazzo is for you. Montepiano is located in a small walled hilltop village and has magificant colorful views of the countryside. It has four well appointed and tastefully decorated apartments with access to a secluded contemplative garden.

Visiting La Quercia Vecchia is akin to visiting an old friend. From the moment you walk in, you are welcomed by the owner Guissepe and treated to a meal that you'll be talking about for years. For starters, the antipasti, a meal in itself, is 15 individual dishes of the most delectable taste treats, all made in the brick oven. Then onto the pizza, a specialty of the house, and of course made to order. The wafer-like crust is simply on the plate to hold the toppings of choice. And the size of an individual pizza can feed an army!

Caution...leave room for the most innovative desserts you'll ever see. Homemade gelati made with seasonal fruits and nuts, served in their own shell or skin. My all-time favorites, having been there during all the seasons, has been the mango, chestnut and apricot. It's amazing how these little powerpacks of dolci put a sweet finish to a fine meal.

Whether you’re familiar with hilltowns in Italy or have never visited one, Casperia* is an excellent choice to add to your itinerary. Situated just fifty minutes north of Rome, this medieval car free jewel, is surrounded by olive groves, vineyards and sheer rock, and is the most charming and picturesque village in the Sabina. Don’t expect to find the usual commercial tourist trappings though, instead, in this pristine village, you’ll find quiet cobblestone streets meandering upwards, where a distinctive 12th century belltower stands. Additionally, Casperia has two beautiful ancient churches with brilliantly colored wall and ceiling frescos.
With its twisting ramps and secret staircases one can never get lost, as this small village is surrounded by a medieval stone wall. This bustling little village has three small squares and one large square. I think the large square, with its flower exploding terracotta pots and two unusual little balconies should be called the Square of Romeo and Juliet. If you close your eyes, you can almost imagine the many stories of the heart made and broken in this square throughout the centuries.
When you’re finished exploring the village, stop by at the fountain square where you’ll find the Pub Fontana. Johnny and Lucca, the owners of the pub, will provide you with the best people-watching seats in the village, as you snack and enjoy your proseco.
Casperia is truly a unique and unforgetable hilltown that will forever stay with you.

*Directions from Rome: -by auto: Drive north on the Via Salaria to Route 313. Follow Route 313 to Casperia. Along the way, you’ll pass signs for Poggio Mirteto and Cantalupo. Alternatively, travel on the A1 Autostrada, exiting at the Fiano Romano exit, continuing onto Route 313 to Casperia. Park outside the walls and walk in through the arched gateway.
-by rail: From the Tibertina Station to Poggio Mirteto. At the Poggio Mirteto station take the ten minute bus trip up to Casperia.