Lots to do in Little Luxembourg

The castle built in 963 was continually added to and protected by 3 fortified rings and a 23 km. long underground network of tunnels that were hewn into the brick. They housed soldiers and citizens during various sieges. It was one of the most powerful fortresses in all of Europe and was called Gibraltar of the North. The fortress was evacuated in 1867 and the 16 year dismantling started. When it came to the casemates however, they realized that blowing them up would also demolish part of the city so they were pretty much left alone. Nowadays, there are 2 entrances but the Petrusse one is usually only open in the summer. The Bock entrance also has the Archaeological Crypt and different levels of tunnels that you can explore. The old part of Luxembourg City has lots of pedestrian only areas and walking along the cobbled streets filled with medievel looking buildings is enjoyable. Shop at the Villeroy & Boch factory for deals. The Grand Ducal Palace is open for guided tours but only from mid July to the end of August. It was built in the 16th century to serve as the City Hall and became the home of the Grand Duke in 1890. There truly is lots to keep you busy in little Luxembourg.

Quick Tips:

Buy a 'Luxembourg Card' for free entrance to museums, historic sights & attractions as well as unlimited use of public transportation (buses & trains) throughout the country. A few attractions (including a boat cruise on the Moselle river or the Petrusse Express train) are discounted with the card. It costs approx. . US per day for 1-3 days and can be purchased at the Tourist Centre in the Place d'Armes.

If you're looking for internet access, try Chiggeri at 15 rue du Nord. There is only one computer and it takes awhile to get used to the keyboard but you can sit with a glass of wine and appetizer (the bruschetta is good) while you watch the chef prepare dinner for diners at the restaurant next door.

Best Way To Get Around:

See above re: Lux. card. The old part of the city is small enough to walk. Depending on your hotel, you might need to take a taxi or bus from the train station.

This was my first ever hostel stay and the most difficult part was actually getting from the train station to the hostel. English isn't as readily spoken in Luxembourg as in the Netherlands and my pronounciation of the name and address of the hostel wasn't great. After head shakes and shrugs from a couple of bus drivers, one fellow led me to the right bus. The ride took about 15 minutes and luckily, I struck up a conversation with a woman who worked at the hostel so she got me right to the door. A good thing too since the downhill path from the bus stop isn't that easy to find and the hostel isn't visible from the road.

It's located under the arch of one of Luxembourg's bridges and is surrounded by tall trees. It looks like it might have been a school at one time. One morning, I came across a fellow climbing the arch of the bridge - getting into practice for a mountain climb, I guess.

My dorm room was on the third floor and was shared with 19 other women. There were 10 bunks but the room was divided into smaller sections with 2 or 4 bunks per section. We shared a bathroom with toilet and sinks but the showers were in the basement. The showers left something to be desired - rows of open stalls with fixtures badly in need of modernization. I was lucky enough to get there early so no one else was around and the water was hot and plentiful.

Breakfast was the best part - cheese (& meat if desired), buns, croissant, jams and a selection of cold cereal provided a good start to the day. In fact, there was more food than I could eat. There was also copious amounts of coffee or tea, including Pickwick's fruit cocktail blend which has since become one of my favorites.

The hostel had a small bar and restaurant. One rainy night, I stayed in for supper and had vegetarian lasagne. The large portion was very good and was extremely cheap - less than $6.00.

Cost per night at the hostel was approximately $15.00 including sheets. Some people bring their own but for me, it was easier to pay a little extra and get freshly washed and pressed sheets rather than putting up with the extra weight and bother of bringing my own.

Overall, I enjoyed the hostel stay and found it extremely good value for budget accommodations. As a solo traveller, it was great to meet and interact with so many people, including fellow Canadians, Americans, Australians, Irish and Japanese. Many nationalities were represented at the hostel and I wasn't even the oldest - that honor went to a Korean lady in her 60s who was spending a few months travelling through Europe on her own.

I booked online through : luxembourg@youthhostels.lu

The city is small and there are so many interesting shops, etc. that it's a wonderful place to walk around. The lanes are narrow and twisty with cobbles and some of the architecture reminded me of medievel times. There are a few hills as well as ruins of an old castle to wander through. Lots of restaurants & sidewalk cafes to rest your feet in. Many places for photo ops with great views over the city. Further afield, there are lots of walking trails throughout the country.

This 1 hour mini train trip starts downtown on Place de la Constitution. It is high above The Alzette & Petrusse valleys and offers great panoramic views of the bridge over the valley. There are earphones that provide an historical commentary (in various languages)on the beginnings of Luxembourg. It's done as a play and I found it a bit melodramatic. The train passes through one of the original city gates and through lots of green park land. There is a stop at an old hospital (?) building where you can get out for about 10 minutes and wander about. I found the ride a fun way to sightsee and relax at the same time.

Luxembourg City is the country's transportation hub and there are many day or 1/2 day trips via train/bus that are worth doing. My favourite was to 2 towns famous for their castles. One was Vianden & I've devoted a separate journal to it. The other is Clervaux & it was actually the easiest to get to. The train trip takes about 1 hr. followed by a 10 min. walk into the centre of town. If you have your own car, it's even easier.

Clervaux Castle reminded me of a large manor house in France's Loire Valley. It's all white with grey roof & is very pretty. There are only 3 sections open for viewing - each houses a museum. One is a war museum (closed during my visit), another highlights the Castles of Luxembourg and the 3rd, and my favourite, holds the Family of Man exhibit. This is a collection of photo portraits taken throughout the world in the 1950s. Very moving & worth the visit (Free with the Lux. card).

Behind the castle those with energy to burn can follow the road up the hill to the Benedictine Abbey of St. Maurice and St. Maur. Along the way, there are a few breaks in the trees that allow for great views of the town below. The Abbey was locked when I got there but it's a pretty sight with lots of green trees, birds chirping, etc. There is parking for vehicles at the top if you choose to drive. If you're lucky, the monks will be hosting a concert of their Gregorian chants. Clervaux has numerous little restaurants & cafes and the town is worth at least a 1/2 day visit.