Kaibab Kountry - Grand Canyon North Rim

No matter from where you see it, the Grand Canyon is awe-inspiring. But to truly feel the tranquility and community with nature that the canyon can inspire, you have to go to the North Rim.

Here, you are surrounded by dense pine forests that open intermittently to lovely green meadows. You'll see fox and deer in abundance. There are lovely trails to hike, and many beautiful overlooks. Best of all, you will have these beautiful vistas all to yourself - everyone else is over on the South Rim! Here, without the crowds, you will feel so much more in sync with Mother Nature!

Quick Tips:

There are few places to stay on the North Rim and they are very rustic. The Grand Canyon Lodge is right on the rim, and has motel units, cabins, and a good restaurant. There is also a campground. The Kaibab Lodge, which is a few miles from the rim, is VERY rustic. But hey, this is an adventure! And the food was great! See more about the lodges (and photos) in my Accommodations write-ups.

From the GC Lodge, you can hike the Transcript Trail along the rim, and out to Bright Angel Point. The major trails and scenic vistas are easy to find -- Imperial Point, Cape Royal, and Angels Window -- more info in my Activities write-up. Deer will cross right in front of you on the trails -- keep your camera handy, but don't feed them!!

You can make arrangements for the canyon mule ride upon arrival instead of months in advance. Two days is probably enough to drive to the main sights and take some nice easy hikes.

We went in early June and the days were warm but it was in the 30's at night!

Best Way To Get Around:

We drove north from Phoenix, up Rt 89 to 89A to Jacob Lake, then Rt 67 to the rim or Kaibab Lodge. The North Rim is very accessible from Page (Lake Powell) and from Utah. If you are visiting Zion in southern Utah and have time, a visit to the North Rim is well worth it.

There are hiking trails near each of the major vistas, so keep your walking shoes with you. Bring lots of water everywhere you go.

The park and the roads into it are open from mid-May to mid-October. You can arrange to stay at the Kaibab Lodge in winter for cross-country skiing.

In a word, RUSTIC! Kaibab Lodge doesn't look like much, but we found the accommodations reasonably comfortable and the restaurant was surprisingly great!

There's a lodge building that houses the dining room and a comfortable lounge area with stone fireplace. The cabin had two double beds and a dresser and very small bath with shower only. I recall that we were asked to conserve water and not run the shower too long. The nights were cold, and there was electric heat that kept us warm. I know we slept well, but whether that was because the bed was comfortable or because of all the fresh air, I can't recall! When we go on driving trips, I always like to bring our own pillows for extra comfort anyway, so it wouldn't hurt to do that. There are no TVs or phones in the rooms.

The lodge is about five miles from the rim and Grand Canyon Lodge. It is a good location for driving to all the major vantage points.

Food at the restaurant was really good! Good hearty breakfasts, including oatmeal and all the usual breakfast fare. We had some really excellent trout for dinner one night.

They showed us some "yurts" which are round tents that sleep ten people -- they use these in the winter for cross-country skiing. They have a stove in the center for heat -- like an igloo. Very interesting. Anyway, this is an outdoorsy, no frills, and I do mean none, kind of place.

The Grand Canyon Lodge is located right on the North Rim of the Grand Canyon. The only other place to stay in the park is Kaibab Lodge, located about five miles from the rim. The GC Lodge is rustic, but not as rustic as the Kaibab.

The veranda of the lodge provides a fabulous place to look out over the canyon. There are comfortable adironack chairs that beckon you to put your feet up and enjoy a nice glass of ice tea after a day of sightseeing or hiking. Like most National Park lodges, this lodge is a large stone and log structure with timber ceilings and a gigantic dining room. They serve breakfast, lunch, and dinner, and the food is excellent. The lodge is open from mid-May to mid October, since snow can close the road any time after mid-October.

The lodge has motel units and cabins. The cabins vary in size from ones with a double bed and a single bed, to ones with two queen size beds. The rooms are rustic but comfortable. The smaller cabins have 3/4 baths and the larger ones have full baths. No TV's, but the motel units do have phones in the room. Water is scarce on the North Rim, and you are asked to be conservative with your water use. There are laundry facilities available.

The atmosphere of the Lodge is very relaxed and family friendly. There are scenic walking trails that start right at the lodge, and the canyon mule trips leave from nearby.

After driving for what seems like forever past the Vermilion Cliffs, you will be very glad to come upon the Jacob Lake Inn near the North Rim entrance to the Grand Canyon National Park. This is because you really haven't seen anyone or anything for quite a while by the time you get here! And, because when you get here, you know you are almost to the North Rim! Well, it's still a bit of a drive, but if you stop here for a bite to eat, you'll get that second wind you need to get you the rest of the way.

We've never stayed at the inn, but it's fun to stop in the general store and have a bite to eat in the cafe. It's really more of a lunch bar, with a few tables and stools at the counter. This is a place you'd stop for a cool drink or a milk shake and a hamburger or hot dog--or maybe a grilled cheese sandwich and some french fries. In any case, it's kind of an oasis after a long drive, and a bit of old Americana, diner style. The store is the only place to pick up any kind of food or supplies before heading into the park. It's a pretty neat store, with a trading-post feel to it.

The Grand Canyon Lodge Dining Room serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner. The prices listed above are for dinner--breakfast and lunch are less expensive. Like most national park lodges, the restaurant is a little expensive, but the food is very good. And you can't beat the view! This lodge has an especially good view, perched as it is right on the North Rim.

The dining room is very large, since pretty much everyone who is at the North Rim will be eating here! The menu has a good selection of entrees: trout, steak, pork, and chicken. We especially enjoyed the service here, as the servers were very friendly and talkative. They are mostly young people, from all over the country and the world, who live here on the rim while working at the lodge. They have no place to spend their money, so they save a lot! Anyway, we enjoyed all the meals we had here, and usually stopped here for lunch, too, because the food is so good.

After driving through somewhat desolate terrain to reach the North Rim, the sudden appearance of tall pines and aspens is like a cool drink of water! The drive to the rim from Jacob Lake is itself very beautiful--thick forests suddenly open up into meadows where you are likely to see deer and fox.

About 3 miles from the Grand Canyon Lodge, you'll find the road to Imperial Point and Cape Royal--two major scenic vistas. At the fork, you'll go left to Imperial Point, and right to Cape Royal. Imperial Point is the highest point on either rim, and allows you magnificent views of the Painted Desert, Mount Hayden, and Saddle Mountain. Heading back to Cape Royal, you'll want to stop at the Vista Encatadora overlook and the Walhalla Overlook. Nearby are Anasazi ruins. Hike the half-mile trail to Angel's Window, an amazing natural arch. Then continue on to the tip of Cape Royal.

From the Grand Canyon Lodge, walk the flat and easy Transcept Trail, which is about 1.5 miles long and takes you from the lodge to the campground. Along this trail, we encountered several deer that came very near us. From the lodge, you can also walk the half-mile trail to Bright Angel Point, where you look down on Roaring Springs, 3,000 feet below.

If walking is difficult for you, you can still see these magnificent vistas from the overlook areas.