The Quintessential English Village

Shops (mostly antique) on the High Street; tour Arundel Castle; feed the swans on the river; boat rides.

Quick Tips:

Stay in a luxurious room in a 12th century castle in nearby Amberly

Best Way To Get Around:

Shank's mare.* *I have been told that many of our readers are perhaps too young to know that 'shank's mare' is an old expression for "on foot."

The Swan Hotel in the heart of historic Arundel consists of around fifteen rooms upstairs over a pub and restaurant. Our double room had twin beds, ensuite bath, and telephone.

Parking is available in a public lot behind the hotel.

Despite being upstairs over a pub, the room was quiet.

A room for two cost us around $90 (a slightly discounted rate obtained through a reservation service - see separate journal).

Relatives of mine (an aunt and uncle) reported a stay in an authentic castle was a ghastly (as opposed to ghostly) experience. No heat, very rundown, etc.

Not so Amberley Castle.

Amberley is an authentic 12th century castle in Amberley England (about ten miles from Arundel) which has been renovated into a luxury hotel.

Our room had a queen size bed with a massive purple canopy, and was luxurious in every respect. The bathroom contained the usual amenities plus Jacuzzi and bidet.

As our room was adjacent to a tower, it had its own private door leading to the tower stairs and the battlements above.

Peacocks, including unusual white peacocks, roam the grounds. At night, the gate is closed and the portcullis is lowered, leaving one with a feeling of absolute security. The reception area leads to a warmly paneled library and sitting area. The dining room features vaulted ceilings with lovely wall coverings.

This is not a place to stint on anything - go there and prepare to pamper yourself in luxury. Enter Amberley Castle in your search engine, and you will find more information.

We ate in the restaurant attached to the Swan Hotel where we were staying because a) it was convenient, and b) we were exhausted, having driven from Bath earlier in the day.

The menu had enough options to satisfy two people with highly different food tastes - I love fine dining and will try foods of almost any ethnicity, whereas my partner is not particularly adventuresome (except under duress) and prefers 'ordinary food,' whatever that means.

I have higher expectations of wine lists than do most people, as I am a wine fan (I am chairman of a wine and food society at home), and the offered listings did not disappoint me.

Service was rather slow as the restaurant was shorthanded that evening. It was no problem as we were going nowhere that night but bed.

Before my first visit to Arundel, I, like most Americans I know, pronounced it a-RUN-dul. This was quickly and kindly corrected by a service station attendant from whom I sought directions. I asked him how to get to a-RUN-dul, and he said 'sir, it is pronounced AIR-un-dul.'

However you say it (and these days I say it correctly), Arundel is the quintessentially quaint English village.

I first saw Arundel from the highway in the spring of 1994. We drove in from the East, and as the highway rounded a gentle curve, we saw the village of Arundel off to our left, with its Castle dominating it from above. It was in April and the early morning fog was just burning off. The whole scene was shrouded in, and somewhat framed by, the fog, creating an almost mystic effect.

That scene lingers in my mind now, nearly seven years and two further visits later as one of my fondest images of rural England.

Arundel Castle, home of the Dukes of Norfolk is worth touring more than once. It is filled with antiques and wonderful things, and the docents stationed in the various rooms will tell you more than you can possibly absorb about this remarkable family, most of whom have managed to keep their heads intact despite having been Catholic and related to Catherine Howard, one of Henry VIII's unfortunate wives.

Of particular interest is a suite which was decorated especially for a visit from Queen Victoria and Prince Albert. The docent will relate an interesting tale about the visit and the preparations for it.

The Library is extensive, and for my money, the most beautiful and wonderful room in the castle.

Below stairs are a gift shop, and extensive cafe.

We climbed the tower and walked the battlements, some of which date back to medieval times.

Also a must see is the adjacent Chapel.

In addition to the castle, Arundel offers extensive shopping opportunities to those of us who are interested in antiques and/or collectibles.