A Weekend Trip to St. Michaels, MD -- Under Sail!

Must do: Visit the Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum to learn about the long history of man and the water.

Eat TONS of good food, especially when the blue crabs are in season. Cracking open a dozen dockside with a pitcher of beer is a culinary delight not to be missed.

Stroll around the beautiful neighborhoods and explore lovely little shops.

Catch an evening concert in the park.

Quick Tips:

Please bring your sunscreen and insect repellent during the warmer months. If you like Saint Michaels, consider purchasing a membership to the Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum.

Best Way To Get Around:

To me, sailing across from the western shore of the Bay is the only way to go! For the landlubbers, you can drive but should leave the car parked once you get there.

We docked our 22-foot Catalina sailboat at the Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum and slept on board at night. This privilege is only available to members at the "Contributor" ($75) level and above. The fee for our boat was only $15, and we had a spectacular view. The moon and stars reflecting off of the billowing water made for a wonderful backdrop to our nights. There were both larger and smaller boats docked near us, including some behemoth power yachts that were like houses afloat. The museum's highest nightly rate is for boats over 80 feet, at $1 per foot. That's a lot of boat!

The facilities at the museum were well-kept and adequate for our needs. There is a shower house and restroom near the dock where overnight guests can clean up. The doors have a punch code lock so that only registered guests who have been given the combination can use the facilities. I never found that I had to wait for a shower, as there were few of us folks in smaller boats. All of the others had their own facilities. Electricity is available for $5 per night, but we did not need it. We only slept on the boat; all of our meals were eaten out. The slips were quiet at night so we had plenty of peace when we needed it. We enjoyed taking a stroll around the grounds after dark when all of the day guests had gone home. I really enjoy the sound and smell of the water and the ever-flashing light of the Hooper Strait Lighthouse. We were also conveniently located near several restaurants, and within a short walk of town. We never felt any need for a car because the town lends itself so well to foot travel.

One of my favorite benefits of staying at the museum was a late-night visit to the softshell crab tanks. The exhibit is built out on the dock, and it is not locked at night. We were able to lift the lids of the tanks and peer in on the crabs as they scuttled and swam around. I appreciated the ability to watch these lovely creatures without anyone else around. I got to have my own private moment with them. During the day there are usually lots of children running from tank to tank and trying to scare the crabs into action. At night, though, it is a quiet, peaceful little world where it's just you and the crabs.

The Crab Claw has an ideal waterfront location at Navy Point. It is a large, somewhat over-patronized restaurant, but you can't beat the location and atmosphere. They have indoor dining in the air-conditioning, but I prefer the deck. There is a covered portion and an open portion.

I remember a beautiful evening spent dockside at the Crab Claw, eating a dozen steamed blue crabs and washing it all down with a pitcher of beer. The sky was so perfectly clear that the stars reflected off of the glassy surface of the water. The food was absolutely delicious and the scenery fantastic.

I'm not sure if they take reservations, but if they do I would recommend that you make them. This restaurant is extremely popular and the wait is long on a summer evening for good reason. There is a sign posted in the covered deck area that reads, "If he don't kick, we don't cook." Crab Claw patrons can be assured that the crab feast on their table was still scuttling around only a short time ago. This restaurant is a very, very short walk from the Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum, so you can spend the day or night there and then come in for dinner.

The dress is pretty casual, but some people dress up too. I would recommend at least nice khaki shorts and a collared shirt for men. We found the staff to be pleasant but a bit harried. The pace during the summer months is very fast. If you dine on the deck, don't be a bit surprised if fowl of all descriptions come begging for your crumbs. We saw geese and ducks circling very close to the restaurant and a few curious gulls wheeling overhead. Ever vigilant, those little guys can snap up a handout in the blink of an eye. I would caution you not to encourage the dependence of these birds on humans by feeding them. They may look sad and hungry, but feeding them table food can actually do more harm that good. It can also result in an unpleasant dining experience for others as birds become bolder. If dining outside, make sure you keep your food and scraps on your own table. You'll have a bucket and a roll of paper towels to take care of all that.

Although you'll no doubt find the fresh blue crab to be thoroughly tasty, you probably won't be able to give the meal your undivided attention. The crowd outdoors at the Crab Claw is lively, and there are tons of people to talk to and watch. My dinner experience there was almost like a big deck party--not rowdy, but full of laughter and friendly folks. You can also purchase Crab Claw souvenir items outside near the entrance.

This was one of the liveliest places I've ever been! We had no intention of going to Characters--in fact, we'd never even heard of it. We just happened to be walking down the street at night after dinner and glanced in the window. I am not kidding when I tell you that EVERY patron in the bar waved and beckoned to us, saying "Hey, come in!" It was a bit of a shock, so we walked on a few paces and then doubled back just to see if what we thought just happened actually happened. Once again, every arm in the place went up, and we were invited in once more. Completely amused and a little befuddled, we opened the door and stepped inside. There was a massive, unanimous cheer and everyone welcomed us in.

It was karaoke night, and the place was packed to the gills. As we squeezed our way through to the bar, people shook our hands and patted us on the back. I think that the expression "the more the merrier" must have been coined at Characters Cafe'. Someone got the bartender's attention and we had drinks in our hands in a flash. Not about to be nudged up onto the stage, we worked our way toward the back of the bar and tried to find some seats. Some kind gentleman gave up his bar stool for me because he didn't think ladies should have to stand. I tried to refuse, but he insisted so I sat down and enjoyed the show. I think that some (or most) of the folks must have been regulars, as they really lit up the stage with their smiles and dance moves. There wasn't a croaker in the bunch! Everyone had wonderful singing talent! We enjoyed our drinks and took in the singers until I was ready to fall asleep right on the bar stool.

Heaven knows what time the regulars close the place down, because it was still jumping when we left. This is definitely the place to go if you like a high-energy crowd and a whole lot of fun after dinner. I think the funniest thing was watching other people walk by outside and receive the same welcome in unison that we had experienced. The looks on their faces were priceless. How funny we must have looked! Still, they all got the same cheer when they walked in, and the party got bigger and bigger.

The Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum is wonderland for those of us who love the water and messing about in boats. It explores man's relationship to the Chesapeake Bay over time, and delves into the many facets of human interaction with this delicate ecosystem. It chronicles the evolution of boats and fishing methods, and takes a look at tourism starting way back when. There is much to be learned about fish and fowl, oysters and watermen, and steamboats and bridges. There are even exhibits that go beyond history, exploring new possibilities and the challenges of today. In my opinion it is simply impossible to learn in one day all that this museum has to offer.

The museum opens at 9 a.m. and closes anywhere from 4 to 6 p.m. depending on the time of year. Purchase tickets at the entrance, or become a member and enjoy free entry all year. The museum covers 18 acres of waterfront property and is home to several display buildings and tons of exhibits, many of which are hands-on for the kids. There is also a museum shop that I really enjoyed visiting. I found a wonderful sailboat pendant that is now a favorite possession. The museum also hosts special events throughout the year. The calendar can be found on the museum website, and there are a few members-only events in addition.

The museum relies on member contributions and volunteer efforts to survive. There are many volunteer opportunities available, and those are listed on the website as well.

Some of my favorite activities were:
Touring the Hooper Strait Lighthouse
Writing a postcard to put on the wall in the Steamboating exhibit
Viewing the boat and quarters used by a typical oystering crew
Peeking in at softshell crabs in the tanks
Taking photos with the busty ship's figurehead
Learning about the many types of waterfowl native to the Chesapeake Bay

I have been to the museum several times now, and I still have not seen everything!

St. Michaels dates back to the early days of colonial America when shipbuilding and tobacco farming were all the rage on the Eastern shore. The most famous story about St. Michaels, however, comes from a much later time--the 1800s. In connection with the War of 1812, a group of British ships had planned to bombard St. Michaels with a storm of cannonballs in August of 1813. The town residents somehow found out about this plan and hatched a scheme to save their homes and families. Ever inventive, the townspeople gathered up lanterns and strung them up in high places outside of town, creating the illusion of civilization. When the British finally ceased their volley, they found that only a single house had sustained any damage, and that was only from one cannonball. The residents of St. Michaels had caused the British cannons to overshoot the town, preserving their homes. This is how St. Michaels became known as "The Town that Fooled the British."

Even today, the colonial and maritime charm of St. Michaels lives on. No longer in danger from the British, residents have staved off any threat of encroachment of large-scale tourism and have instead maintained a town full of quiet charm. Devoid of large chain hotels, historic St. Michaels offers accommodation in upscale inns, charming bed and breakfasts, and numerous boat slips. There is even a harbor taxi for those who prefer to occupy moorings for the night. This is definitely a destination for the boating crowd. It is also a destination for the shopping crowd. The charming "downtown" streets are lined with delightful and upscale boutiques, peddling art and antiques, boat gear and boat-a-bilia, jewelry, and sportswear. Rover is welcome to come along too--there are many doggy spots set up outside of the stores with water dishes and a place to tie up. Dining is a real treat in St. Michaels, as this Bay town has been in the seafood business for over a century. You cannot leave without sampling fresh, authentic Maryland crab cakes or dining on a dozen steamed crabs. Oysters here are about as fresh as they come, and there are more than a few places to slurp them.

Of course, after all that dining, a nice long walk is in order. A stroll through the streets of St. Michaels is the perfect way to spend a late summer afternoon or evening. The architecture here has been preserved through the ages so that colonial homes stand side by side with elegant Victorians. The lawns are perfectly manicured and the homes kept in stunning repair. There are also points of interest and historical markers here and there that teach about the town's long and distinguished past. The streets are quiet and enveloped in cool, green shade. I could not help feeling that I had wandered into a storybook when I was there.

Along with its historical character, St. Michaels also has some real "people character" that can make it seem almost quirky at times. I found the locals here to be disconcertingly friendly compared to most other Marylanders. That alone was a shock. It reminds me of the hospitality and manners I was accustomed to in my native state of Georgia. Residents of St. Michaels will not look at you like you have two heads if you nod and say hello to them in the grocery store. They will just smile and say hello right back. There are all sorts of people here, including artists, fishermen, and itinerant boaters who all mesh together in a fascinating human tapestry. It seems that any and all are welcome--and welcomed with great enthusiasm. Little unexpected surprises such as a bar full of beckoning karaoke enthusiasts or a restaurant owner who offers to come pick you up from the marina for dinner can really make your stay memorable.

St. Michaels is not a town that time forgot; it is a town that has aged with grace and beauty, and a place that continues to grow into its future with great wisdom and a respect for its roots.