Jerusalem Dreams

Quick Tips:

Best Way To Get Around:

Transportation to and from the Zion is a breeze. The bus line runs right down King George and Jaffa streets, both of which are within an easy 5 minute walk. The main bus station is about 10 minutes on foot. The Old City is about 15 minutes away - walking downhill. If you have a car, you can park it in the public parking lots near Yael Solomon. It was about 10NIS for overnight parking when we were there. Cabs are also easy to pick up in this area of town. The only caveat is that the street noise can be quite loud, especially in Winter when you won''t be using your A/C. Zion Hotel is perfect for those wanting to experience the fun of dining and dancing in the area and not have to worry about a cab or a drive to hotels further out.

The menu features 50 different types of pasta - from Bolognese to Ostrich meat. The selection is not Kosher and you can mix meat and dairy. This means Spaghettim is one of the few restaurants open in this area of Jerusalem on Shabbat, which makes it a big draw for tourists and/or non-observant Jews. The wine selection is good and reasonably priced and the desserts are fabulous (try the Fondant!).

We've eaten there many times and always had a good meal, with the service being at least acceptable. Spaghettim also has a non-smoking section, which is an additional draw. Many expat families favor the place, so they are used to children, too.

Big Apple Pizza has branches in other parts of Israel (such as Eilat), but the mothership is tucked behind the Zion Hotel in a busy area of Ben Yehuda mall. The pizza served is New York style thin-crust and comes with many kosher toppings (mostly vegetables). You can order by the pie or by the slice. Seating is upstairs, where you will find the walls have turned into a graffitti board for visitors from all over. If you look carefully, you might even see my markings from 1995 and 1998!

Big Apple is not open during Shabbat (mid-afternoon Friday until sundown Saturday), but does open back up late on Saturday night. It's one of the later restaurants to re-open, so I would plan on going after 9pm if you are hoping to get some pizza on Saturday. The service is standard for fast-food and the prices are very reasonable, which makes it a mainstay for the younger crowd. Enjoy!

One word of caution: the ceilings are low and you have to be extra careful with your head when you go to the restroom!

If you do get in, remember that this is the 3rd most holy place in Islam. Be sensitive to your dress and take off your shoes. The mosque itself is a fabulous example of Islamic architecture. The gilded dome and the amazing mosaics are wonderful. The temple mount complex actually features several smaller domes as well as Al Aqsa mosque. Plan time to see them all. There is a small museum on the grounds as well, The Islamic Museum,which features Islamic artwork, artifacts and religious items. An excellent online guide can be found here .

There are 2 parts of the Underground: the street level "bar" and the lower-level "disco". This review deals primarily with the bar. The bar is spacious and features an elevated seating area that fills up fast. Other seating is available at picnic tables, but these also double as dancing space. Beware: at least one picnic table will be capsized on any given night.

The crowd is a mix of young Israelis, military men (with guns!) and young backpackers. Most nights, there is a happy hour which starts well before the crowd arrives and gives those on a budget a chance to down a few before hitting the disco.

. The next rule to follow is to always maintain your cool. If you feel the price is too high (it is!), offer another price--a good starting point is roughly 1/2 of the first offer. Never put forth a price you are unwilling to pay, as an offer is viewed as binding. From there, things will progress naturally, with many back-and-forth negotiations with the shopkeeper decrying that you are 'ruining him' and listing every member of his family who will go hungry. It's all part of the game, so don't get discouraged ;-)

It may be that you don't come to a suitable price. Nothing will be served by getting angry or hostile. There are many shops in the souq offering the same goods and it's likely you can find another shop to bargain with if one does not pan out. Try to visit the souq early in the morning or later in the evening, as shopkeepers are more likely to be amenable to hard bargaining then.

The only caveat I would give to market shopping is to use caution when buying fresh produce or meat. I, personally, wouldn't eat any meat or produce. In general though, you will find that the market's goods are decent quality (if a bit dusty from shop wear).

Getting to Masada is easy - tour buses run frequently from Jerusalem. If you have a car, you will see signs on 40 for the turn off near Zohar. There is a visitor''s center at the base of the mountain which features exhibits of archaeological discoveries, a gift shop, and snack bar, and shows a short movie. From here you can either take the cable car (60NIS both ways) or take the snake path (20NIS).

At the top of the mountain, there are numerous signs giving details of the major buildings, as well as a path to follow. A brochure will be provided (unless you climb in the dark) to allow you to follow along. There are also restroom facilities, a souvenir shop, and a pay phone on top of the mountain.

Allocate at least an hour and a half on top of the mountain to take in the view and all the sites. Bring plenty of water, especially in summer when it gets unbearably hot. There are a certain amount of stairs necessary to see all of Masada, even if you take the cable car. Also be aware that the cable cars only run once an hour during the slow season.

Two of the most noted areas of Yad Vashem are the Garden of the Righteous and the Hall of Remembrance. The Garden of the Righteous is where non-Jews who assisted Jews during the Holocaust are honored. A tree has been planted here for Emilie and Oskar Schindler.

The Hall of Remembrance is where memorial services are held. It is a dark building, with a central eternal flame that illuminates the names of the death camps. Victims' ashes are also located here. This is a very solemn place and silence or quiet talking should be practiced.

Free tours are available in English once a day for most of the week. For the individual visitor, there is a 2-hour walking tour of Yad Vashem that allows you to visit all the major sites along a path. You can also follow a longer 3- to 4-hour walking tour, or take a car tour.

As Ben Yehuda is a pedestrian mall, it's a very easy place to navigate. Running up from Yael Solomon Street, you will see local shops mixed with big name marketers such as Tower Records, Blockbuster, and McDonald’s. For those not venturing into the Old City, or who are nervous about haggling, this is the best area to find gifts for friends and relatives back home. Everything from expensive artistic menorahs to South Park T-shirts in Hebrew can be found along this street. There are many shops selling similar goods, so it is sometimes wise to shop around.

For practicalities, public parking is available at the end of Yael Solomon where it crosses King George. There are a number of banks along Yael Solomon and ATMs are common along Ben Yehuda itself. Nearly all the merchants are closed from early afternoon Friday until late on Saturday. Many, but not all, shops re-open following Shabbat. This can be anywhere from 8pm on, depending on season. For accommodation along Ben Yehuda, see my review of the Zion Hotel . For some dining ideas, Big Apple Pizza is in the area as is Spaghettim . Getting to Ben Yehuda by public transit is easy. It's a 10 minute walk downhill from the Central Bus Station and the buses that run from there to the Old City along Jaffa Road all make several stops along the way.