Jerusalem Dreams

Highlights: the Western Wall, the Dome of the Rock, the Church of the Holy Sepluchre, Yad Vashem, the Israel Museum, the Cardo and the Midrahov. Spend at least a day in the Old City. Enjoy your time and wander off the beaten path. Don''t be afraid to explore side alleys and stop for tea! Make time for the museums (Yad Vashem, the Israel Museum) as well as the holy sites. Walk as much as possible; it''s the best way to really experience the city.

Quick Tips:

Leave any sharp objects at home (like Swiss Army knives), as they will cause trouble during the numerous security checks. Make sure to stock up on cash before Friday night, as the ATMs largely shut down. Be prepared to haggle for goods in the Old City; it''s expected in the bazaar.

Best Way To Get Around:

Public transportation is very easy to use in Jerusalem and throughout Israel. If you are staying in New Jerusalem or the old city, you could feasibly walk. I have never needed a car, except for excursions outside the city.

Zion Hotel is a favorite of mine. It is directly on the Midhrahov in Jerusalem - an open air pedestrian mall. The hotel itself is located on the upper floors of a very old stone building, with no elevator. You''d be advised to pack light! Rooms are spartan, but clean. Breakfast is included in the rates. The hotel has tubs, which is a rarity in this level of accomodation in Jerusalem. Rooms also have cable TV. There is a 24 hour restaurant on the ground floor. The hotel has a bar, but it was closed when we last visited.

Transportation to and from the Zion is a breeze. The bus line runs right down King George and Jaffa streets, both of which are within an easy 5 minute walk. The main bus station is about 10 minutes on foot. The Old City is about 15 minutes away - walking downhill. If you have a car, you can park it in the public parking lots near Yael Solomon. It was about 10NIS for overnight parking when we were there. Cabs are also easy to pick up in this area of town. The only caveat is that the street noise can be quite loud, especially in Winter when you won''t be using your A/C. Zion Hotel is perfect for those wanting to experience the fun of dining and dancing in the area and not have to worry about a cab or a drive to hotels further out.

Spaghettim is one of the stalwarts of the Jerusalem dining scene. They also have restaurants in Tel Avia and Haifa. You can find their site (in Hebrew) at here. I am reviewing the Jerusalem location. The main attraction here is the beautiful patio dining in summer, but the quality food makes this a year-round destination.

The menu features 50 different types of pasta - from Bolognese to Ostrich meat. The selection is not Kosher and you can mix meat and dairy. This means Spaghettim is one of the few restaurants open in this area of Jerusalem on Shabbat, which makes it a big draw for tourists and/or non-observant Jews. The wine selection is good and reasonably priced and the desserts are fabulous (try the Fondant!).

We've eaten there many times and always had a good meal, with the service being at least acceptable. Spaghettim also has a non-smoking section, which is an additional draw. Many expat families favor the place, so they are used to children, too.

Big Apple Pizza is a Jerusalem establishment and not to be missed by those seeking tasty pie. Offering kosher pizza well into the wee hours of the night, you're likely to see it crowded at any point you visit. Luckily, the pizza is available as take-away, so there is no excuse not to grab a slice on the go!

Big Apple Pizza has branches in other parts of Israel (such as Eilat), but the mothership is tucked behind the Zion Hotel in a busy area of Ben Yehuda mall. The pizza served is New York style thin-crust and comes with many kosher toppings (mostly vegetables). You can order by the pie or by the slice. Seating is upstairs, where you will find the walls have turned into a graffitti board for visitors from all over. If you look carefully, you might even see my markings from 1995 and 1998!

Big Apple is not open during Shabbat (mid-afternoon Friday until sundown Saturday), but does open back up late on Saturday night. It's one of the later restaurants to re-open, so I would plan on going after 9pm if you are hoping to get some pizza on Saturday. The service is standard for fast-food and the prices are very reasonable, which makes it a mainstay for the younger crowd. Enjoy!

Smack in the center of 'new' Jerusalem, the Blue Hole has long been a staple of expats, young Israelis, and anyone in need of a cheap drink. The ambiance is great. It's actually located in a cellar. The room itself is small and dark and lit primarily by candles and a fish tank. Service is usually good and you can get 2 for 1 during their generous happy hour. There are a number of bars on Yael Solomon competing for your money, but the Blue Hole is by far the best!

One word of caution: the ceilings are low and you have to be extra careful with your head when you go to the restroom!

Well, good luck getting in to the ''green doors''. We were told by the guards that Al Aqsa is now completely closed to non-Muslims. If you''re Jewish, look Jewish, or traveling with Jews (or anyone with an Israeli passport) forget it. In the past, it was difficult to get in. Now, it seems impossible.

If you do get in, remember that this is the 3rd most holy place in Islam. Be sensitive to your dress and take off your shoes. The mosque itself is a fabulous example of Islamic architecture. The gilded dome and the amazing mosaics are wonderful. The temple mount complex actually features several smaller domes as well as Al Aqsa mosque. Plan time to see them all. There is a small museum on the grounds as well, The Islamic Museum,which features Islamic artwork, artifacts and religious items. An excellent online guide can be found here .

The Underground is the grand-daddy of Jerusalem clubs. It''s been serving up drinks and dancing for as long as anyone can remember and though the clientele changes, the club really doesn''t. Found behind a dark gate on Yael Solomon across from Zion Square, the Underground is the stomping ground of the 18-25 set.

There are 2 parts of the Underground: the street level "bar" and the lower-level "disco". This review deals primarily with the bar. The bar is spacious and features an elevated seating area that fills up fast. Other seating is available at picnic tables, but these also double as dancing space. Beware: at least one picnic table will be capsized on any given night.

The crowd is a mix of young Israelis, military men (with guns!) and young backpackers. Most nights, there is a happy hour which starts well before the crowd arrives and gives those on a budget a chance to down a few before hitting the disco.

The local Arab market (known as the souq) can be found near the Damascus gate in the old city. As soon as you cross over the threshold, you are immersed in an overwhelming attack of smells, lights, and sounds.The souq offers most anything you can imagine, though it runs heavily towards gold jewelry, electronics, clothing, and food. Here you can find the latest in dubbed Arab pop, mounds of honey candies and nuts, the top fashion for Arab children, hookahs as tall as most people, and plenty of faux-Persian rugs. In times previous, there were many souvenir shops as well. However, with the decrease in tourism, many have switched to commodities more suited to locals. Most shops are narrow and deep and place their offerings on the main path. This includes meat, which can be found hanging from hooks throughout the market. Vegetarians and those with quesy stomachs beware! There are a few rules of engagement to understand when shopping in the souq. The most basic is to haggle. Haggle for everything. The salespeople know that you are a tourist and will, thus, offer you a price that is frequently 200% of what they will accept. There is no insult meant by this, it is strictly business. In fact, you are insulting them if you don't make at least a token attempt to secure a better price. This process is the way business is done and often involves a leisurely chit-chat, some tea, pictures of the family, and introducing you to everyone in the shop. While it can be maddening to spend 40 minutes to pick up a gift for Aunt Ethel, it helps to view the bargaining as entertainment by itself

. The next rule to follow is to always maintain your cool. If you feel the price is too high (it is!), offer another price--a good starting point is roughly 1/2 of the first offer. Never put forth a price you are unwilling to pay, as an offer is viewed as binding. From there, things will progress naturally, with many back-and-forth negotiations with the shopkeeper decrying that you are 'ruining him' and listing every member of his family who will go hungry. It's all part of the game, so don't get discouraged ;-)

It may be that you don't come to a suitable price. Nothing will be served by getting angry or hostile. There are many shops in the souq offering the same goods and it's likely you can find another shop to bargain with if one does not pan out. Try to visit the souq early in the morning or later in the evening, as shopkeepers are more likely to be amenable to hard bargaining then.

The only caveat I would give to market shopping is to use caution when buying fresh produce or meat. I, personally, wouldn't eat any meat or produce. In general though, you will find that the market's goods are decent quality (if a bit dusty from shop wear).

Masada is one of the most important historical sites for Jews in Israel. It is the place where the Macabees stood up to the Romans in 70 AD. A small group of Jewish zealots held out against the Roman army during a brutal siege. In the end, the Romans claimed Masada after the Jewish population committed suicide.

Getting to Masada is easy - tour buses run frequently from Jerusalem. If you have a car, you will see signs on 40 for the turn off near Zohar. There is a visitor''s center at the base of the mountain which features exhibits of archaeological discoveries, a gift shop, and snack bar, and shows a short movie. From here you can either take the cable car (60NIS both ways) or take the snake path (20NIS).

At the top of the mountain, there are numerous signs giving details of the major buildings, as well as a path to follow. A brochure will be provided (unless you climb in the dark) to allow you to follow along. There are also restroom facilities, a souvenir shop, and a pay phone on top of the mountain.

Allocate at least an hour and a half on top of the mountain to take in the view and all the sites. Bring plenty of water, especially in summer when it gets unbearably hot. There are a certain amount of stairs necessary to see all of Masada, even if you take the cable car. Also be aware that the cable cars only run once an hour during the slow season.

Yad Vashem is actually a complex of museums and memorials. It's also an education facility housing some of the most important archives. I recommend scheduling at least half a day to fully take in all that this site has to offer. You can reach Yad Vashem by car, taxi, or several bus lines from the Central Bus Station in Jerusalem.

Two of the most noted areas of Yad Vashem are the Garden of the Righteous and the Hall of Remembrance. The Garden of the Righteous is where non-Jews who assisted Jews during the Holocaust are honored. A tree has been planted here for Emilie and Oskar Schindler.

The Hall of Remembrance is where memorial services are held. It is a dark building, with a central eternal flame that illuminates the names of the death camps. Victims' ashes are also located here. This is a very solemn place and silence or quiet talking should be practiced.

Free tours are available in English once a day for most of the week. For the individual visitor, there is a 2-hour walking tour of Yad Vashem that allows you to visit all the major sites along a path. You can also follow a longer 3- to 4-hour walking tour, or take a car tour.

Mitzpe Ramon is a huge erosion crater that lies midway between Eilat and Jerusalem. It's a long, dusty drive and isn't frequented by many tourists - as they usually take the more popular route via the Dead Sea. In Hebrew, the crater is known as Maktesh Ramon. There isn't much in Mitzpe Ramon except for the crater. A small university outpost, a wonderful youth hostel, and a few restaurants and a gas station are all that you will find. People don't come here for the culture; they come here for the chance to see an 8-mile-wide and 40-mile-long crater in one of the most remote outposts Israel has to offer. Popular activities include hiking the crater, off-road jeep tours, and nature walks. Obviously, given the remote nature of the crater and the desert climate, it would be wise to pack plenty of water for your journey. Adventure travelers can participate in rock-climbing as well, but I was far too chicken! Reaching Mitzpeh Ramon is best done by rental car. You can catch a bus here from Be'er Sheva, but they are infrequent. At the top of the crater is a welcome center that offers restroom facilities, a small gift shop, and a cafe. The welcome center also offers a presentation explaining the history of the crater and an excellent observation point directly over the crater edge. The official park site can be found in English here. The admission fee to the center's presentation is 23NIS for adults or 12NIS for children, but there is no charge to park at the center and enjoy the view. If you are planning on staying the night, consider the excellent youth hostel, one of the best in Israel. The youth hostel also sponsors nature hikes and camel rides. The youth hostel is located directly behind the visitor center.

Ben Yehuda is located between two of major Jerusalem roads -- King George Street and Jaffa Road -- has long been ground zero for Jerusalem nightlife. Crowded with souvenir shops, jewelry stores, cafes and restaurants, it drew both tourists and locals. However, a number of bombings in the area have done much to dampen the spirits and depress the economy. Many of the storefronts are empty and a few still bear scars of the attacks. Luckily, the city of Jerusalem has begun to make a concerted effort to lure people and retailers back downtown with a series of festivals, concerts, and other cultural events.

As Ben Yehuda is a pedestrian mall, it's a very easy place to navigate. Running up from Yael Solomon Street, you will see local shops mixed with big name marketers such as Tower Records, Blockbuster, and McDonald’s. For those not venturing into the Old City, or who are nervous about haggling, this is the best area to find gifts for friends and relatives back home. Everything from expensive artistic menorahs to South Park T-shirts in Hebrew can be found along this street. There are many shops selling similar goods, so it is sometimes wise to shop around.

For practicalities, public parking is available at the end of Yael Solomon where it crosses King George. There are a number of banks along Yael Solomon and ATMs are common along Ben Yehuda itself. Nearly all the merchants are closed from early afternoon Friday until late on Saturday. Many, but not all, shops re-open following Shabbat. This can be anywhere from 8pm on, depending on season. For accommodation along Ben Yehuda, see my review of the Zion Hotel . For some dining ideas, Big Apple Pizza is in the area as is Spaghettim . Getting to Ben Yehuda by public transit is easy. It's a 10 minute walk downhill from the Central Bus Station and the buses that run from there to the Old City along Jaffa Road all make several stops along the way.