Kauai Journals

Hanalei, Hana Hou!

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A December 2002 trip to Kauai by Idler

Misty day at Hanalei Photo, Kauai, Hawaii More Photos
Quote: "Hana hou" means "One more time!" in Hawai'ian. After first visiting Kaua’i in 2000, we were anxious to return to the lush north shore area we had enjoyed the most. In 2002, we managed to return not just once, but twice. And next year? Hana hou, we hope!

Hanalei, Hana Hou!

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Overview

Misty day at Hanalei Photo, Kauai, Hawaii
Quote:
We fell in love with Kaua’i at first sight. The island has been used as a setting for countless films, and with good reason: it’s stunningly beautiful. Of all the many lovely places on Kaua’i, however, the North Shore suits us best. The Princeville/Hanalei area is a natural choice for those who want to be on hand to watch the constant shift of clouds over the mountains, who enjoy rather than deplore the frequent gentle showers (often accompanied by rainbows), and who are susceptible to the charms of lush tropical valleys. Among our favorite Hanalei delights are:Climbing down cliff paths to...Read More

Hanalei Bay Resort

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Hotel

Hanalei Bay Resort Photo, Kauai, Hawaii
Quote:
Best Things Nearby:Seldom have I seen as lovely a setting as this. The view of gorgeous Hanalei Bay, with its trademark backdrop of prominent Makana Peak (more popularly known as "Bali Hai" in the movie "South Pacific"), is an unforgettable sight. Staying at the resort provides access to both Princeville, with its manicured golf courses and luxury homes and hotel, and the more laid-back charms of Hanalei, a small agricultural town surrounded by lush taro fields rimmed by mountains. Just a brief stroll down the hill is lovely Pu’u Poa Beach, and there are at least a dozen equally lovely beaches a short drive away. Much of the area in front of the resort has been designated a wildlife refuge, whil...Read More

Member Rating 4 out of 5 on January 26, 2003

Hanalei Bay Resort
5380 Honoiki Road
Kauai, Hawaii
(808) 827-4427

Wishing Well Shave Ice

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Restaurant

Wishing Well Shave Ice Photo, Kauai, Hawaii
Quote:
Shave ice is the quintessential Hawaiian treat. In true island style, its exact origins are unknown, though it’s fairly clear that the sizeable Nikkei population brought with them the tradition of kakigori (delicately flavored Japanese shaved ice), and that Filipino halo-halo (a parfait containing crushed iced, tropical fruits, sweetened beans, and ice cream) also played a part in its development. The good old-fashioned American Sno-Cone is the closest relation to shave ice on the mainland. However, shave ice is infinitely more subtle and pleasing than a Sno-Cone. A good shave ice is fluffy, like the finest snow; there is nothing granular or crunchy about it whatsoever. And then there...Read More

Member Rating 4 out of 5 on January 26, 2003

Wishing Well Shave Ice
In a battered truck next to Kayak Kaua'i
Kauai, Hawaii

Hanalei Pier

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Attraction | "Recipe for Hanalei Town"

Hanalei Pier Photo, Kauai, Hawaii
Quote:
RECIPE FOR HANALEI TOWN Start by making the batter: Take three cups of sifted ancient Hawai’i, aged about a thousand years. Keep in mind that several of Kaua’i’s most sacred spots, or hei’au, are nearby, such as Ka-ulu-Paoa, where the art of hula first began, and Makana Mountain (also known as "Bali Hai"), one of two sites where the famous fire throwing ceremony, ’oahi, was performed long ago. To this, add a cup of missionary oil. This is easily obtained from ...Read More

Member Rating 4 out of 5 on January 26, 2003

Hanalei Pier
End of Weke Road
Hanalei, Hawaii 96714
No phone available

Kalalau Trail

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Attraction | "The Kalalau Trail"

Kalalau Trail Photo, Kauai, Hawaii
Quote:
Sometime after about the twentieth Überhiker had edged past me on the steep, narrow Kalalau Trail, I began to foment a plan to get the most out of this challenging trail, rather than have it get the most out of me. As it was, I was tentatively negotiating the root-strewn, slippery trail, perversely relieved to be climbing uphill. Downhill, I realized, would be even more challenging, especially given that the path runs along the edge of a cliff and that I’m mildly acrophobic. And yet I’d made such a brave start, clambering up each rocky section to achieve the first, second, third, and even fourth spectacular lookout po...Read More

Member Rating 3 out of 5 on January 26, 2003

Kalalau Trail
At The End Of The Kalalau Trail
Kauai, Hawaii

Kayak Kaua'i

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Attraction

Kayak Kaua'i Photo, Kauai, Hawaii
Quote:
My husband has kayak fever. This explains why, on our first day back in Hanalei, he makes a beeline for Kayak Kaua’i, strategically located next to the lovely, meandering Hanalei River. "Let’s just check out the daily rates," he says, but I know better. He’s been dying to explore the Na Pali coast by kayak, and has his eye on this outfitter’s Na Pali kayak trip, rated #2 in National Geographic Adventure magazine’s "America''s Best 100 Adventures" list. A long scrutiny of kayaks and equipment follows. In all honesty, I can barely tell one kayak from another, but I know how to make the best of a prolonged deliberation by wandering ...Read More

Member Rating 4 out of 5 on January 26, 2003

Kayak Kaua'i
Post Office Box 508
Kauai, Hawaii

Hideaways Beach

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Attraction | "Hideaways Beach and Queen Emma's Bath"

Hideaways Beach Photo, Kauai, Hawaii
Quote:
Two of the loveliest places on Kaua’i are reached by short treks down from the manicured heights of Princeville. In both cases, a little willingness to climb down sometimes slippery hillsides or scramble over rocks pays off, though a scarcity of parking and lack of signposting will ensure that Hideaways Beach and Queen Emma’s Bath will remain two of the so-called "secret" spots of the North Shore. The path for Hideaways is near the gatehouse for the Princeville Hotel, next to a miniscule 10-space parking lot provided for beachgoers. The narrow path runs alongside tennis courts and then down concrete steps which end abruptly halfway down. The remaining trail involves negotiating the steep ...Read More

Member Rating 4 out of 5 on January 26, 2003

Hideaways Beach
Princeville
Kauai, Hawaii

Limahuli Valley Gardens

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Attraction | "Limahuli Garden"

Limahuli Valley Gardens Photo, Kauai, Hawaii
Quote:
Biodiversity. I’d heard about it, I’d read about it, and yet the word remained a mere catchphrase for me until I visited Hawai'i. In this botanical Eden, all things grow, but only some 1,100 indigenous plants existed until man arrived, bringing (eventually) thousands of new plants, accidentally or deliberately. Hawai'i’s indigenous plants, having evolved in the absence of competitors, are no match for the hordes of introduced species. Most of the plants a visitor sees on the islands are not, in fact, native. The most prolific invaders, such as strawberry guava, banana poke, and octopus trees (known on the mainland as a harmless houseplant called Schefflera), carpet entire areas. The plight of Ha...Read More

Member Rating 4 out of 5 on January 26, 2003

Limahuli Valley Gardens
Highway 560
Haena, Hawaii 96714
+1 808 826 1053

The Hanalei "Bird View"

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Attraction

The Hanalei
Quote:
"Simple pleasures are the last refuge of the complex." ~ Oscar Wilde ~ Waking one morning before sunrise, I feel disinclined to be indoors or around other people. Slipping quietly into the kitchen, I grab a carton of yogurt, then my binoculars and bird guide. After scribbling a note, I ease my way out the door. It’s time for one of those simple pleasures. These are the golden hours, initially dark and misty though they may be, when I feel as if I have the island to myself. The birds know this secret, too. I set out for an isolated spot overlooking the Hanalei Valley, known as the "bird view," to join them at sunrise. This place is easy to find, but for s...Read More

Member Rating 3 out of 5 on January 26, 2003

The Hanalei "Bird View"
Off of Okihi Road, Hanalei Nat'l Wildlife Refuge
Hanalei

The Powerline Trail

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Attraction

The Powerline Trail Photo, Kauai, Hawaii
Quote:
The Powerline Trail, running for eleven miles from Princeville to Kapa’a, is often described as "difficult" or "grueling," but the good news is, the section starting from the northern end of the trail is quite pleasant. Rather than hiking the whole enchilada, it’s relatively easy to hike south a few miles from Princeville, then return before encountering the muddy slopes and water-filled ruts that complicate hiking the rest of the trail. A reassuring thing about the Powerline Trail is that it’s virtually impossible to get lost, as it’s basically a utility company service road. You just follow--you guessed it--the power lines. These are hardly scenic, but a hiker can’t complain ...Read More

Member Rating 4 out of 5 on January 26, 2003

The Powerline Trail
TPrinceville
Kauai, Hawaii

Tunnels Beach

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Attraction

Tunnels Beach Photo, Kauai, Hawaii
Quote:
As Kaua’i has the highest percentage of sandy shoreline among the Hawai'ian islands, I’m hard pressed to name my favorite beach on the island. The temptation to race from one beach to another, trying them all out, is great. We’ve been to all but two of the North Shore’s beaches, but the one that we most enjoy is Tunnels, reputed to be the best snorkeling beach on Kaua’i, and deservedly so. What makes Tunnels a special place is that is has not just one but two reef formations, the inner one nestled inside a larger horseshoe-shaped outer reef. The inner reef, which stretches all the way up to the shore, is thus enclosed in a lagoon of fairly calm water. The fingers of the reef run perpendicular ...Read More

Member Rating 4 out of 5 on January 26, 2003

Tunnels Beach
8-mile Marker After Princeville
Kauai, Hawaii