Beguiling Brussels

Arriving in Brussels, we were excited and quite enthusiastic about our visit there. Picking up our rental car, pre-arranged through the IgoUgo Travel Partner, Auto Europe, was fast and easy. Getting out of the airport was a breeze. Then it hit us-- the traffic, the un-readable signs, and the confusing maps. The street names on the map were written in two languages (neither of which were English) and the streets signs were all but impossible to find.

Somehow we managed to find our hotel, the Atlas, and settled into a comfortable two-storey suite. A walking tour with a great guide led us through the Old City, from the very spot where Brussels actually started, passed the comical and quite famous Manneken Pis, and into and around the Grand Place. We saw the three hills of Brussels, representing Justice, Religion, and the Arts, and walked through the Brussels Gardens after viewing the Royal Palace. We toured several galleries, the Belgian version of the shopping mall, and visited the Musical Instrument Museum.

We were introduced to "Belgian Gastronomy" at the wonderfully romantic restaurant, the Vismet, and fulfilled a promise to an old friend at Rick’s Café Louise.

Quick Tips:

You might see Belgium written as "Benelux," especially on train schedules.

If you have an early morning flight out of Brussels, you might want to consider staying the night before at one of several hotels within ten minutes of the airport. There are several choices including the Ibis, Holiday Inn, and a Holiday Inn Express.

Keeping Connected: A short walk from the Atlas Hotel on Boulevard Anspach is a jewel of an Internet connection. It is a large, three-level facility, offering inexpensive services and a full snack bar. On each level there are machines where you purchase a card depending on how many minutes you want. We bought a 17-minute card for 1 Euro. The card has a code number that is used to sign on, and is reusable until the minutes have been expended. Although the signs advertized it was a 24-hour facility, we went very early one morning and found it closed.

Best Way To Get Around:

Driving in Brussels was not fun. In fact, it was more of a nightmare. Maybe after becoming accustomed to their system, it may be easier. In Brussels, a red traffic light does not necessarily mean "stop" and fellow drivers are not exactly patient. Gas and parking are expensive. Walking, on the other hand, is much safer, more economical and much more fun.

If your plans are taking you to major cities or surrounding towns, a car may not be necessary. Train service is easy and usually takes you right into the city center. It also lets the would-be driver enjoy the beautiful scenery.

There are many options for Eurail and Belgium Passes. If there are two persons traveling together, the Saver Pass is best. You can log on to Visit Belgium for more information. You must purchase the passes before leaving the United States.

A taxi from the airport to the city center costs around 25 Euro and after driving the same route, I guarantee this is a bargain. Once in the Old City, walking is easy and safe.

The Atlas Hotel is perfectly situated in historic Brussels within walking distance of the Grand’ Place, the Brussels Park, and the Royal Palace. It is close to the Stock Exchange (La Bourse) and the Place Sainte-Catherine, the old "Fish Market" area. There are also two metro stations within minutes, the Brouse and Ste Catherine.

Our room, one of a total of 88, was a two-story suite with a kitchenette and living room downstairs, bedroom and bathroom upstairs. The refrigerator was stocked with bottled water, soda, beer, snacks, and liquor. A hot-pot for heating water for tea or coffee sat on a small dining table, surrounded by coffee, tea, and sugar. There were dishes, glasses, cups, pots, and pans--everything you could possibly need for a meal or snack. The comfy sofa was great for cuddling up at night and watching TV after a long day of sightseeing.

Midway up the iron staircase leading to the bedroom was a small landing with French doors that opened onto a tiny balcony. From there, we could stand and look down on the small street in front of the hotel. The bedroom was decorated with warm colors and blue accents. The bed was queen-size and very comfortable; the bathroom had a big tub with shower.

Breakfast, which is included in the rate, is served each morning from 7 to 10:30am in a beautiful dining room one level below the lobby. Immediately noticeable is the exposed rock wall along one side of the room. This is the remains of the original wall built in the 13th century that once protected the town. Breakfast includes cereals, yogurt, breads, sliced ham and other meats, cheese, beets, cabbage salad, corn, pearl onions, Danish, and fresh fruits. Coffee, tea, or hot chocolate is served in individual pots, adding an elegant touch.

Guests are invited for a welcome drink Monday through Thursday, offered in a lounge adjacent to the breakfast area. Wine, beer, sodas, juice, and snacks were available. For us, it proved to be a great place to meet other travelers and exchange information about what to see and do in Brussels.

The front desk staff was very accommodating and always ready to provide directions to whatever we wanted to visit. Most spoke English to some degree. They can help arrange several city tours that will pick you up at the front door. The Atlas also offers 24-hour reception, safe-deposit boxes, and limited parking for guests in an underground garage. They made us feel so comfortable and special, making our introduction to Belgium a pleasurable experience.

When a long-time friend heard we were traveling to Brussels, he called and made us promise that we would visit Rick’s Café Louise. He lived in Brussels for many years, and Rick’s was his favorite place; in fact, he said he even had a hamburger named after him.

Rick’s is located on the prestigious Avenue Louise and was easy to find. We were there before the evening dinner crowd. The bar was filled with men and women in business attire enjoying an after-work drink. There was a large outdoor patio, but it was closed because of not-so-nice weather.

The best description of the menu at Ricks would be eclectic. To our delight and surprise, we recognized almost everything on the menu. Rick’s Jail House Chili with onions and cheese sounded very normal to us, but it was served with a fried egg (must be a Flemish thing). There was also El Jefe’s Tex-Mex Fajitas, Chimichangas, and Shrimp Fajitas (yea! that’s my kind of eat’n).

Burgers are Rick’s specialty, and as we scanned down the long list of burgers, sure enough--there it was--the Melted Blue-Larry’s Original, named after our friend. Hubby and I certainly get enough Tex-Mex and burgers at home, and usually we would have opted for more local cuisine, BUT a promise is a promise.

As we say here in Texas, "they must be real proud of their burgers"--the price was about US$11 for a plain hamburger. But, a promise IS a promise. We had burgers; fries were extra, at US$2.50, and a small Coke was US$2.50.

The bar menu and wine list were as long and varied as the food menu, ranging from a dozen or so kinds of beers to aperitifs and drinks such as margaritas, Long Island iced tea, and tequila sunrise. Drinks range from $4 to $9. Desserts include cheesecake, chocolate cake, ice cream, and dessert coffees ($6 to $8).

The atmosphere was relaxing and fun, but, as with most restaurants in Europe, very smoky. The walls were decorated with vintage Hollywood posters and black-and-white photos and there was a large fireplace in the main dining area. Since we were the only guests actually eating, we received great service.

We left the restaurant bellies full--wallet empty--but a PROMISE IS A PROMISE.

We had reservations for dinner at 7:30, but the evening was so beautiful, we couldn’t wait to get out and walk around. The area between our hotel and the restaurant was quaint and historic, with parts of the old town wall still visible. We took a stroll around the Place Sainte-Catherine, also called the Old Fish Market. With beautiful buildings in the background, we strolled through along a park lined with small restaurants on each side. Down the center was a waterway with a fountain at one end. The park was filled with young families out for their nightly walk.

Owner/chef Tom Decross was busy in the open kitchen when we entered his restaurant, the Vismet. The tables were set with white linen, and the entire restaurant seemed to glow from the soft lights in the ceiling and the candles burning on the tables. The Vismet has been open for two years and claims to have the freshest fish available. Although we had a reservation, it did not matter for there were plenty of tables available and we were their first guests of the evening. It was nice not to have to wait in line.

Benjamin, our waiter, spoke excellent English, having lived in London for five years. We were immediately immersed in conversation about traveling. He told us that he works to travel--literally. He works for one year, saves every penny he can, travels for as long as he can--usually one year until the money runs out, and then it’s back to work.

Benjamin was a great asset that night. We were not familiar with the items on the menu and he recommended everything from the aperitif to dessert. We started with a delicious light fruity wine. For an appetizer, I chose the croquettes of shrimp with a light coating fried golden brown in a wonderful creamy sauce. Harry’s choice was fried sardines. Yes, fried sardines. Both choices were superb.

Our main course was turbot, a delicate white fish fillet grilled in a buttery stock sauce, served with small mushrooms and mussels; a small dish of boiled potatoes was served on the side. You MUST eat mussels in Brussels. Dessert was delicious crème brûlée, followed by a cup of espresso--a perfect end to a perfect day.

By the time we finished our desserts, most of the tables at the Vismet were filled; it appeared to be mostly locals. We had a great view of the cooking area from our table and the two chefs busy creating incredible dishes. Of all the plates that passed by me, none were alike; each presentation was beautiful and I wanted to eat all night.

Everything we ordered, without exception, was not only a joy to the eyes but also to the palate. Bidding Benjamin goodbye, we strolled back toward our hotel, taking time to sit on a bench in a small park and marvel at the excitement of our first full day in Brussels.

The Grand’ Place is Brussels’s top tourist attraction and has been referred to as the jewel in Brussels’ crown. Since the city’s beginning, it was the main marketplace and a public forum for announcements and even executions. We didn’t have enough time to explore every building at the Grand’ Place, but only had the opportunity for an overview. In order to really enjoy and learn about this area, we would have needed a full day.

The Grand’ Place is hard to describe. It reminded me of San Marco's Square in Venice, Italy, only more ornate. All the buildings face the center of the large square, which is restricted to pedestrian-only traffic, and house at least 14 café/restaurant establishments, candy shops, chic clothing stores, banks, and other businesses. Today the Grand’ Place is less of a market and more of a gathering place.

What I found unique about the Grand’ Place was that each of the magnificent buildings around the Square was individually named. Here are a few examples:

Le Cygne (The Swan) was my favorite, with a breathtaking swan sculpture over the main door. It was originally built as a private residence, later became the Butchers’ Guild House, and later still used by Karl Marx for meetings of the German Workers’ Union when he was writing the Communist Manifesto. Today, it is an elegant and expensive restaurant.

L’Etoile (The Star) was destroyed and rebuilt in 1850. One of the city’s heroes, Evrard ‘t Serclaes, was brought to the original building after a rebellion, and died there.

Le Pigeon (The Pigeon), also known as the Painters' Guild House, was once the home of the 19th-century writer, Victor Hugo, who gave the world Les Miserables and the Hunchback of Notre Dame.

Le Cornet (The Horn), the Boatmen’s Guild House, is decorated with marine symbols.

Le Renard (The Fox), was the Haberdasher’s Guild House and has an elaborate carving of a fox.

La Louve (The She-Wolf) so named because of the statue at the entrance of Romulus and Remus suckling a wolf. It is now a bank.

One of the most spectacular events held at the Grand’ Place is the Tapis des Fleurs (flower carpet) held bi-annually in mid-August (on even-numbered years). Unfortunately, we missed it by one month. The show consists of a magnificent and intricate design using fresh flowers that covers the entire center of this large square. To be in Brussels and see the Tapis des Fleurs is a rare and unforgettable treat for visitors.

We met JD, our guide, at 9am in the lobby of the Atlas Hotel. He was quite an interesting fellow. As we walked through the historical center of Brussels, he pointed out some unusual sites--things we would otherwise have missed. We loved the wonderful cartoons painted on buildings and learning about Tintin, a world-famous cartoon character. There is a store dedicated entirely to Tintin memorabilia, including T-shirts, caps, and posters.

Rounding a corner on a quiet street, JD said "Oh! You have to see this." Expecting to see a beautiful old building or a historic monument, we were somewhat taken back when all we saw was a small market. The Arab on the Corner, as our guide affectionately referred to the place, is one of the mainstays of the inner city of Brussels. JD told us these little stores are everywhere, and are usually owned and operated by Arabs who open early and stay late. The fresh fruits and vegetables are outside, and a little of everything else on the inside.

We walked to Place Saint-Gery, a beautifully renovated building that stands on the exact spot where Brussels began. Here at the birthplace of Brussels are many exhibits during the day, but at night, the area is a gathering place for locals.

On Rue Charles Buls, we learned about a ritual surrounding the bronze plaque of Evard’t Serclaes, one of the city’s heroes. There were many tourists taking turns rubbing the foot, leg, arm, hand, head, and cloak of the figure, and then touching the image of a child’s face and a dog. This ritual is to bring good luck. However, JD said that true Belgians simply touch the arm. We watched for a few minutes after the group left, and without fail, every person who walked by touched the arm of the statue. We, of course, did the same.

Just a short distance from there on the corner of Rue de l’Etuve and Rue Des Grands Carmes is the Manneken Pis. It is believed that this little statue was originally a water fountain for the people to come and draw drinking water. However, stories dating back to the 12th century tell different tales.

Today, it is perhaps the most visited street corner in Brussels. The fascinating thing about this statue of a little boy, doing exactly what the name implies, is that he has over 654 costumes from all over the world. There is actually a committee that reviews each new costume submission to make sure it meets the criteria of authenticity and proper structure. If so, the costume is accepted and added to the collection, which is on display at the museum. There are costumes from virtually every country in the world. Costumes are changed daily by an official of the museum, and a program is posted on the railing around the Manneken Pis listing which costume he will be wearing in the coming days.

Tour continues in Part 2.

We continued our tour, walking through small parks and along winding streets lined with beautifully designed three, four, and five-story buildings, making our way to the Palais de Justice (Law Courts). It sits at the top of a hill -- sometimes referred to as the Justice Hill. Construction of the building was between 1866 and 1883. This was the largest building in Europe until the 20th century and has been described as a "monumental hulk of a building -- dream architecture for a megalomaniac." We agreed.

The entrance and stairways leading to the upper floors were immense. The dark gray walls and high ceilings create a grim atmosphere. The echo of footsteps resound throughout the large open spaces. The hallways, stairways, and galleries are open to the public. There are 25 law courts, including the Cour de Cassation, which is the highest court in the land, but we were not able to view them. We did see many lawyers and their clients, meeting here and there through the building, preparing their cases to be heard.

No time to rest. Our Guide, JD, wanted to make sure that we saw as much of the Old City as we possibly could. Through more quaint streets, we stopped briefly at the Galerie Bortier, a gallery, which is the Belgian version of the shopping mall. In fact, the practice of gathering many stores under a covered walkway had its origins here in the 1840s, and things haven’t changed that much. There are small boutiques, bookstores, and specialty shops. It would have been fun to just browse through some of them, but our Guide was on a mission, and it was on to the next stop -- the Museum of Musical Instruments.

This museum has been relocated in recent years to the building that was the first known multi-story department store, the Old England Shop on Rue Montagne de la Cour 2. It was renovated in 1898 with an innovative design (for its day) using steel and glass. This design is now complementary to and befitting the Museum of Musical Instruments. It contains over 7,000 instruments, including a tenor saxophone invented by Adolphe Sax in 1861 and a beautiful Hurdy-Gurdy,a medieval instrument that has not changed much over time.

We walked around the perimeter of the Royal Palace, then into the lush and beautiful Brussels Park. It was midday, and the park was peppered with couples relaxing on benches, mothers with small children, and many young people, probably just out of school. In the center of the park is a large water fountain and the perfect place for a photograph.

Next was the Cathedral of Saints Michael and Guadule, a combination of Roman, Gothic, and Renaissance architecture, built high on a hill overlooking the town (Religion Hill). The beautiful 15th century stained-glass windows were my favorite parts of the church. It''s two towers makes this a very recognizable landmark.

Our final stop was the Grand Place, which I describe in a separate entry.