Budapest in December

Take a dip at the Szechenyi baths.

Munch on a palacsinta or langos.

Peek into a church or synagogue.

Dodge the homeless people screaming at you in Hungarian.

Quick Tips:

Best Way To Get Around:

The restaurant is in the basement of the building, so it has the cozy atmosphere of a Bierkeller and, to get in the spirit, I had a bottle of Dreher beer, which was suprisingly tasty (I hadn't been impressed with Hungarian beers previous to this). All of us ordered soup for the first course, and I had the good fortune to choose bean soup (bableves)--like the others, it was served in a saucepan (which gives you an idea of the portion size!), and topped with sour cream and parsley. Mixed together, it was amazingly warm and good, with just enough spice to liven things up.

My main course was turkey breaded with sesame seeds and served with rice and potatoes. The turkey was delicious and moist but, unfortunately, after the bableves I could only muster a few bites

We had good service here as well - I can't say enough about this place.

Palacsintas is a traditional Hungarian dish resembling crepes that are filled with everything imaginable--meats, fruit, cheese, etc. I tried three different varieties during my stay in Budapest: ewe's cheese topped wih sour cream and parsley, chocolate topped with chocolate sauce and powdered sugar, and apple topped with powdered sugar. All were delicious, considering that I'd never had ewe's cheese before (it has a taste resembling feta but is moister and not so salty).

I believe it doubles as a bar at night, so visit if you can, and be sure to check out what the moose head in the dining room is wearing. (It was a Santa hat when I was there in mid-December, but who knows what he might be sporting now?)

Our service wasn't terrific, but I'd recommend it just for the atmosphere. Get a window seat and people-watch!

I was blown away the moment we walked in by the stained-glass work on the seats, the fine woodwork, paintings on the walls and ceilings . . . everything. I ordered a cheese platter to start my meal, enjoyed several kinds of hard and soft cheeses from around Europe, and washed it all down with a glass of Tokay. My main dish was something akin to lasagne: ham, cheese, and peppers between layers of baked noodles. Luckily the portion was just small enough to allow me room for dessert, and I chose (from an AMAZING dessert menu) crumb cake with baked pears inside--it was heavenly. My friend ordered goulash and also pronounced it excellent.

We had wonderful service from the waitress, who came around often to see if we needed anything--a rarity in Hungarian restaurants. I recommend this place wholeheartedly!

At one end of the square stands the immortal Gerbaud pastry house, and each night a kind of makeshift Advent calendar window is opened, displaying a new picture in the upper windows of Gerbaud. Musicians play traditional Hungarian tunes, and dancers dressed in traditional costume welcome bystanders into their ranks!

We saw a wonderful production of Verdi's "La Traviata," which unfortunately had subtitles only in Hungarian, so I was a little confused at times. The acoustics were good and the costumes and dancing made it an enjoyable show.

My only complaint is that cameras were not allowed into the main hall--I would have loved to have taken pictures of the chandeliers and the gilded walls and ceiling. I did sneak a photo of myself at the wine bar, though. :)

During the Turkish occupation of the 16th century, it was used as a mosque, and the prayer niche (mihrab) facing toward Mecca in the eastern wall is still intact with its Arabic writing.

Admission is free, and we bought pamphlets in English from a man inside for 250 F (US$1). Outside on the church are the remains of the Roman military camp, Contra Aquincum.

When you arrive, you are given a receipt and magnetic key. You are required to pay the full fee (900 HUF) up front, and are given a partial refund if you stay less than two hours. Once inside, lock your clothes inside a locker (don't lose the key!), shower, and step outside and into one of several outdoor warm-water baths. Steam rises up from the water, and the mineral content of the water makes it smell a bit harsh, although it does a great job of clearing your sinuses!

After you've had enough of the warm water, grab your towel and RUN into the steam room on the other side of the complex. Temperatures in here are too hot to be really comfortable after you've warmed up for a few minutes. Relax by bathing in a tepid-water pool--the perfect ending to your Hungarian bathing experience.

Szechenyi also offers massages, soapy rub-downs, and various therapies for those with rheumatic ailments and various musculoskeletal disorders, although you need a doctor's prescription for these.

You can start in the cold-water swimming pool, or move right to the Turkish portion of the baths--a round, warm-water pool where the only light filters in through bits of glass embedded in the domed ceiling. Surrounding this pool are four smaller pools of varying temperatures, from tepid to fire 'n' brimstone hot. At midnight, the belly dancers emerge from the doorway, and they do an amazing job, despite all the hoots and hollers.

I didn't have a terribly good time here--I'm not much for going out and getting hit on, especially by wet, hairy, almost-naked foreign men. If you're young and like the party lifestyle, though, it's definitely worth a look. Drinks are also available in the main hall, but I don't know how much they cost.