Sacred Sites of the Kathmandu Valley

The stupa at Bodnath marks the holiest site of Mahayana Buddhism outside of Tibet and has become a Mecca for Tibetan exiles and western sympathizers alike.

Pashupatinath is the holiest Hindu site in Nepal--it’s position on the Bagmati River, a tributary of the holy Ganga, has lead to its development as a miniature version of Varanasi.

The Swayambunath complex with its instantly recognizable stupa is considered to be the legendary birthplace of the Nepali nation.

Quick Tips:

Before entering a temple you should remove your shoes and any leather articles (e.g. belts, bags, jackets, posing pouches, etc.)

Proceed around the site in a clockwise direction and use your right hand when touching anything (e.g. doors, prayer wheels, offerings, monk’s buttocks, etc.)

Photography is usually acceptable outside the temple, but it is best to avoid taking photos inside or of anything sensitive (e.g. altars, funerals, bathers, topless models, etc.)

Best Way To Get Around:

Many of the sites are within walking distance of major towns of the valley and the walks allow one to deepen ones appreciation of their cultural context.

Alternatively, the valley's extensive network of buses and tempos provide cheap and efficient, if not exactly comfortable, transportation to all the sites.

If, however, you value your comfort, taxis can be hired to ferry you between any of these destinations, although you will have to haggle over the price.

High on a hill west of Kathmandu stands a dazzling white stupa. This shrine is dedicated to Swayambhu, the self-created, all-encompassing original Buddha, who is Buddhist equivalent of the creator god.

Two hundred thousand years ago, the valley was underwater and the hill upon which Swayambunath stands was an island in the lake. Legend tells of Mujushree, a saint, who came in search of Swayambhu, manifested in the form of a blue flame in a lotus flower on the island. Unable to cross the water to reach the island, Mujushree took his mighty sword and cleaved a gorge in the hill at Chobar to let the water drain out--this presumably being an easier option than building a boat. Mujushree is thus considered by many to be founder of the Nepali nation as well as the stupa that is an icon of the country.

The stupa is reached by a long flight of stairs, allegedly 365, but I lost count around 12. These stairs are flanked by tacky-looking statues of the Dhyani Buddhas' vehicles, placed there to taunt you about having had to climb up all that way on foot. A Vajra ("thunderbolt") marks the top and is flanked by two Shikkhara added by Pratap Malla during a dispute with Tibet in 1646--they apparently worked as the twin victory bells in front. On the far side of the stupa is a Newari Pagoda dedicated to the goddess of smallpox, and behind that is an old building with a pilgrim’s shelter on the ground floor and a small gompa on the first.

The five-fold Buddhist cosmology as represented by the stupa is echoed by further constructs within the complex. Vasupura, an ornate shrine to the earth goddess; Vayapura, a small shrine to the air god; Agnipura, a painted lump that acts as a curious shrine to the fire god; Nagapura, a snake pit for the water god, and the Shantipura building dedicated to the sky god. Shanti Shri, a fifth-century saint, is apparently patiently waiting here until the valley’s people need him to return, so expect him back soon.

The complex is nicknamed "The Monkey Temple" for its compliment of Rhesus Macaques who apparently delight visitors with their playful antics. I don’t know if it was the usual monkeys’ day off but the ones I ran into were a group of belligerent thugs whose behavior was far from holy. They performed a variety of "playful antics" that even the Anglican church frowns upon--fighting, stealing, and I found one splayed out on a shrine engaging in an activity which I shall euphemistically describe as "stroking the stupa" in what I can only hope was a ritual offering to Shiva.

The site is an easy 2km walk from Kathmandu and is well worth a visit. The stupa is a fine example, the complex contains much of interest, and even if you are bored of stupas there are some fine views over Kathmandu. Entrance costs 50NRs.