Stop Over in San Juan

Don't pass up a trip to the rainforest, El Yunque. A not-too-rigorous hike will bring you to La Mina Falls where you can take a dip in the very cool water flowing here. We were all totally amazed at the gorgeous mall, Plaza las Americas, in San Juan.

Quick Tips:

We made a stopover in San Juan each way in our flights from Houston to St. Maarten. We saved enough on airfare by doing this to pay for our total stay of 3 days in San Juan.

Some said not to fly LIAT, but we did for much less than American. They had a nonchalant attitude about time (always a little late), and the planes were older, but they got us from San Juan to St. Maarten and back without any mishaps. We enjoyed flying and talking with people who live in the Caribbean.

Best Way To Get Around:

A rental car gives you total freedom to go where you want when you want. We had been warned about the traffic and drivers, but it didn't seem too out of the ordinary compared to Houston traffic. There are buses and taxis. There are bus tours available to El Yunque if you don't mind going with a "pack." We found it cheaper to rent a car rather than pay tour fares for 4.

This inn is pink stucco and right on the street -- Ashford Avenue in the Condado. The office is open air. Through it you can access a cheerful sitting room with tiled floors and a walled patio garden area with tables. The inn is 3 stories and has no elevator. It is rated ** by AAA.

The rooms are off interior hallways. They are quite basic with tile floors and air conditioning. The bathroom in our rooms had only a shower--again quite basic. There is cable TV.

While the rooms are definitely not like the rooms in a luxury American hotel, the place has a certain charm. We enjoy traveling "like a local," and enjoyed our stay. I most enjoyed having breakfast (continental breakfast plus included in room rate) in the patio area among the tropical plants and lizards. We visited with other guests--some from the US mainland and some Puerto Ricans.

Just down Ashford Avenue are a number of shops (some VERY expensive), restaurants, Walgreens, and gelato available catty-cornered across the street. We walked down to Chili's one evening--about 6 blocks. The Condado beach is less than 2 blocks away.

The only parking is on-street, but we were able to get a parking place all 3 nights. The manager let us park in the little drive one night and said he would watch for opening, but a space opened just as we headed up to our room. He stood in it until my husband got the car turned around and parked.

More information available at El Canario Inns.

Walk along a paved sidewalk with La Muralla (city wall) on one side and the blue Caribbean on the other. The walkway is lined with huge, old trees, street lamps, and benches.

We started at the magnificent fountain/bronze statue near the docks where the cruise ships come in. The tourist office in the building across the street from the statue will give you a map of Old San Juan.

The view is absolutely beautiful. You can continue all the way to El Morro (and perhaps beyond), but you cannot get into El Morro from this walkway. You must enter the old city through the Puerta de San Juan. They were doing some much-needed maintenance at the old gate when we walked through.

This would be a very romantic walk at night. Though it is lighted, I don't know how safe it would be to walk after dark. Check with the locals.

Luquillo has a beautiful crescent-shaped white sand beach with palm trees that stretches more than a mile. The water is calm and clear. The girls were a little disappointed that there were no waves.

Families were here having a good time together. Children were everywhere, but none were obnoxious.

On a summer weekday, the beach was not crowded. I was told that it is very crowded on weekends. Judging from the large parking lot, I assume this is a popular weekend spot for people from San Juan. It does cost a few dollars to park.

We situated ourselves under some palm trees for shade. As the sun moved, we had to resituate ourselves. There were some shelters, but they were all taken.

There was a stand selling food, but we had purchased lunch from a Subway we passed in Luquillo since we didn't know what would be available.

The restrooms/showers weren't quite to the same standard as those on our Texas beaches, but they were available.

I recommend this beach especially to families with younger children. Teenagers are looking for a little more action.

El Yunque, (also the name of the tallest peak in the forest), is the only tropical rain forest in the United States. The area receives 200" rain each year, but it didn't rain the day we were there.

There are huge trees, vines, ferns, moss, and impatients blooming by the thousands. Numerous streams run down the mountainsides making waterfalls and pools.

Don't miss the visitor center, El Portal, at the entrance. There are many displays, a short film in English and Spanish explaining the forest, restrooms, and a gift shop. There is also a nature trail with plants labeled. The breadfruit tree was one interesting plant along the boardwalk--also orchids growing.

Near the main road is La Coca Falls. Park your car and get out to crawl on the rocks up to the rock wall with water streaming down. Take a look over the edge of the bridge on the other side to see the water continue its tumble down.

The Yokahu Observation Tower offers a magnificent view of the forest and the whole northeastern coast of Puerto Rico. Lots of stairs here, but worth it.

Farther into the park you will find a trail to La Mina Falls. This is .8 mile of fairly rigorous hiking. The trail has a number of stairs so it's not good for wheelchairs or strollers. The falls are beautiful, and there is a large pool to frolic in--if you can take the cold water! I was suprised to find such cold water in the tropics! Begin your hike early to avoid the crowds that arrive in the afternoon.

We didn't see or hear any coquis, but I'm told they only come out at night or after a rain.

There are several concession stands along the road. Longer hiking trails lead up the mountains if you have more time. We spent 4 hours here and didn't have time to do the longer trails.

Fuerte San Felipe del Morro was the guardian of the Spanish Main. It rises dramatically from the Atlantic Ocean and San Juan Bay. The U.S., Puerto Rico, and Spanish military flags fly from its walls. It is more striking than Fort San Cristobal.

The fort is a national historic site and is operated by the National Park Service. There is a small admission fee which also allows you to visit Fort San Cristobal on the same day.

There are six levels of batteries which are all connected by ramps and stairways. You can explore as many levels as you have energy to climb. Numerous cannon and guard towers adorn each level. The old tunnels and passageways have been blocked off to visitors. There are beautiful harbor views.

A museum houses 16th- and 17th-century armor and weapons with various audiovisual exhibits. The chapel is open to visitors. A small gift shop sells bottled water. There are also drinking fountains and restrooms.

We were at the gate when they opened in the morning at 9AM. It quickly became very hot in the July sunshine.

What a delightful mall! It is 3 stories in places, with shops on 2 levels and an eating area on the third. Plaza de Americas is beautifully decorated with hanging sculptures and fountains. The fountains feature sea animals with moving parts.

Macy's and Sears are the two anchor stores. The Macy's is as large as the one in Houston, and Sears is spread over the mall with departments such as hardware in their own separate store. Numerous smaller shops feature European brands, home decor items, candy, etc. One little candy shop sold Puerto Rican coffee, stuffed animals, souvenirs, and the most beautiful desserts I have seen. We were so sorry that we were flying out the next morning--although one of the girls volunteered to carry a chocolate dessert on her lap all the way home! My daughter also found a store that had a large selection of Quiksilver and other boarding brands of clothing.

Eating establishments ranged from fast food to full service restaurants. Most of the full service restaurants were on the third level. The girls didn't want to waste any of our time at the mall eating so we grabbed food at Kentucky Fried on our way out near closing time.

Upon our arrival about 6PM on a Friday night, the parking lot was almost full. This obviously was the place to be. On the flight from St. Maarten to San Juan I spoke with a lady who was going to San Juan to shop. She said Plaza las Americas is THE mall for the whole Caribbean.