Pernambuco adventure

Recife, with its quater Boa Viagem, is a nice beach with natural rocky pools (they protect you against shark attacks), nightlife, and restaurants. Olinda, an old 17th-century town near Recife, has fine examples of colonial architecture, including UNESCO's Patrimonio da Humanidade.

Southern beaches are the best. The top one is Porto de Galinhas with its natural pools. Another nice beach is located at Calhetas. Northern beaches are not recommended if you feel like swimming. Itamaraca, in fact, only has a Dutch fortress--Fort Orange--and a center for the protection of sea mammals.

Quick Tips:

We decided to stay in one of the beach-front hotels of Boa Viagem, and it was a good choice if, apart from visiting natural beaches, you want some nightlife. Beaches here are relatively clean--something you cannot say about Olinda's beach, which is very polluted. Olinda is nice for a one/half-day excursion, but not a place to stay. There is too much hasseling by locals who want to be your guide. Staying in Boa Viagem is the best in my opinion. You can reach Recife by plane--there are direct daily flights from Lisbon (TAP) and one weekly (Varig), or there are daily connections with domestic airports (Varig, Vasp, Tam etc.)

Best Way To Get Around:

We decided to go with excursions organized by local travel agencies. Our hotel was relatively cheap at R (less than US). The guide spoke only Portuguese, but you can easily comunicate with him in Spanish. Taxis are relatevly cheap as well--you can go to Olinda from Boa Viagem for about R (US return). Watch rate of exchange of Real. When we were in Brazil, currency was very weak--about R-5=US.

The first stop is Igarassu, where you can see the baroque, colonial-style church and monastery. Later, a bus takes you to the Island of Itamaraca, which is very green, with mangroo bushes.

You can stop on the beach on the outside of the island. From here, you can take a jangada to the small island of Coroa do Aviao (R$10 or US$3). Warning: the water is very polluted, as the beach is situated just within the mouth of the canal that carries all industrial waste. Because of this, you cannot fully enjoy this place--it's really a shame! Unfortunately, this is a common problem. Dirty, polluting industries are being moved away from the developed countries to the less developed. We are moving problem away, but it still exists.

As we couldn't enjoy swimming, we decided to go sightseeing. We saw Fort Orange, a Dutch fortress from the 17th century. It was interesting to visit the Sea Mammals Rescue Center, where you can see manats (animals in the photos), learn about them, their environment, and why we should protect them.

The excursion was a bit of a waste of time, because we could not enjoy the beach, and trying to see two sights in only 4 hours was not sufficient. Restaurants and toilets near the beach are NOT recommended.

You can book this excursion, organized by one of local travel agencies, through your hotel. Galibu Beach is wide and has more facilities, but Calhetas is more romantic and the restaurant there serves nice food.

Penambuco was established in 1535 by the Portuguese, and it soon delevoped and became a capital of northeast Brazil. In the 17th century, Olinda became a Dutch colony. After the battle of Guararapes in 1564, the city was returned to its previous owners, the Portuguese. In that period the most beautiful monuments were built, e.g. baroque churches, monastries, and mansions in Portuguese colonial style.

The wealth of the city was established on the sugar cane industry. One of the finest examples of Portuguese baroque architecture is the Convent of St. Francisco with its beautiful azulejos--blue painted tiles. The convent has an unforgettable view, and you can see from Cathedral Hill, Igreja da Se. A few must-sees: Olindas Seminary, Cathedral, Igeja da Concepcion, and Igreja do Carmo. Near Carmo Sq. is a tourist information center where you can get maps with information about all highlights of town.

An interesting fact: Olinda is a UNESCO heritage of humanity site.

Porto de Galinhas is known for its natural coral reef and natural pools. The best time to see it is in the morning during the ebb, when the ocean uncovers the reefs.

In the natural pools you can see colorful fish and actually feed them. You can take a jangada, which is a kind of raft-boat with a sail to the natural pools. The trip costs about R$10 or US$3-5. Be sure to take a mask and a snorkel for snorkeling. It is a fabulous view with fish swimming so close to you.

In the afternoon you can try "beach boogie"--a trip by car, or "beach vehicle." This is a great opportunity to see nearby beaches. It only costs US$15. It is possible to swim only within the area protected by reef--anywhere else there is a dangerously strong current. According to locals, a few people drown every year. Swimming within the protected area is nice and safe and the water is clean.