Thailand Ties - Part II

If you want to hobnob with the folks who are label crazed, most likely, you should not be reading any of my journals, much less this one. But, we did visit one upscale shopping center, just because there was nothing else to do that afternoon, and it turned out to be great fun: Central Tourist Paradise, they called it, and it could be. With so many other options, this really should be your last.

In the previous journal, I took you to Chinatown , and I hope you had fun enough to anticipate your visit there. When we are traveling world wide, we purposely avoid any place that would say "galleria", or "mega shopping center" or anything that would imply the same old brands in a different setting. We never hesitated to go into fairly seedy areas, just to see how the other half really lives. At times, we had the greatest fun sidewalk shopping, and I mean literally looking at mostly women, on the sidewalks, each with their wares neatly arranged in a row, selling trinkets for pennies, and all the while chattering on their cell phones. A true Kodak moment!

Quick Tips:

The more I travel, the fewer direct flights there are. At times, you have an entire day, as we did, at an airport. If you’re lucky, you’ll end up at Singapore’s Chiangi Airport, where people actually plan to stop because it’s so awesome. I’m going to tell you about four other airports where you can do some serious shopping in a couple, and skip the other 2 entirely. The best airport to buy perfume and cosmetics is still Frankfurt, so far. In Osaka Airport, you have the "Refresh Room", free internet/email access (YES!) and great buys on Japanese products.

Chiang Mai Airport turned out to be quite a surprise; it does deserve the appellation of International, as it does offer quite an array of products. Since more people are discovering this to be a destination on its own, direct flight service is being offered now to select cities, and San Francisco will be one of them.

And on the streets, I had the greatest snack lunch for Bs. 10 (US.23)where a woman was frying tiny round mounds of dough which smelled divine: they were morsels of coconut pancakes and the smell seduced Chuck, finally.

Best Way To Get Around:

As I stated previously, keep your hands off the wheels in Bangkok. Let someone else do the driving: a) they know where they're going and b) they can get there faster than you can, map or no map. I wish someone would introduce the Tuk Tuk idea in the US. (minus the pollution).

OK, OK, we didn't really stay here, but there is so much legend surrounding the Oriental Hotel that we just had to visit. The doorman, dressed in Indian attire, opens the door for you (and everyone who passes through); I am told that he knows everyone's name.

As we went into the reception area, I was blown away by the regal bouquet which stood proud and high; have a look at the picture, as words will not do it justice. From there, the eyes automatically switch over to the ceiling, where lighting takes on a super-special look. Here again, I choose to show you a photo of these luminaries, as they defy description.

The aura of elegance is in the air; guests are dressed to the nines as they glide across the marbled floors. Everyone seems to speak in hushed tones as if not to break the magic; we sat for a half hour in one of the many conversation groupings of couches and armchairs. The single bud on the coffee table seduced me, and the camera continued to click.

As we got up to look around, I noticed a bookstore in the corner nearest the door leading to the pool area, along with one of the 10 restaurants on the premises. Wonderful pictorial volumes awaited hungry travelers like ourselves; magazines of international repute lined the shelves. It was terribly narrow as I made my way to the back, but the gifts were very tastefully selected. This is the place that Chuck finally found his Nancy Chandler map of Bangkok. I recommend this map to anyone contemplating a trip to this city; it's fun, and I hate maps normally.

We headed outside and I admired the foliage and manicured garden; did Somerset Maugham see what I saw? To my right was a cafe with small bistro sets outside the doors; further down was an incredibly elegant restaurant. To the left, guests were lazing around the pool, their smallest needs being attended to. Huge potted plants around the pool ensure privacy. Is it any wonder that the Oriental Hotel keeps getting voted best hotel in the world, year after year?

The most expensive room here goes for $2,200 and is appropriately dubbed the Oriental Room. Through the glass windows of the reception area, you can see the Peninsula Hotel towering over the Oriental. That's another upscale choice.

The Oriental borders the Chao Praya River, so transportation is within steps of your room. It is also in the very heart of the downtown area; it's hard to imagine that this structure has existed since the late 1800s. It became well known to Americans at the time of the Vietnam war, due to the proximity of Bangkok. I'd love to stay here for one night, and let my curiosity take me through the entire building and its grounds.

Rather than suffer through my connections when flying to national or international destinations, I now look forward to the challenge of making the most of my time wherever I land. Bangkok/San Francisco is about 17 hours non-stop; our journey took us to Hong Kong, for approximately 90 minutes’ layover.

The Hong Kong airport is huge, very state of the art, and the brand names can blind you. Check to see which of these are on your "must-have" list: Burberry, Ferragamo, Dunhill, Ricci, Fendi, Bulgari, Cartier, Calvin Klein--whatever your little heart desires is all here on Level 6. Prices are frightening as well. I adopted a shopping cart, which was so adorable as it was relatively small and funnel-shaped; alas, only our carry-on luggage found a home on the cart. I stopped for my cosmetics check at a place called Temptation, and the visit removed any temptation I might have had. The pashmina shawls were ever so enticing and colors irresistible. They were over US$100 each. Am I glad I waited! My advice for this airport is to move on unless you have money to burn. On a positive note, security checks here are the most thorough of all that we encountered.

Bangkok International is best viewed when one is fully awake. It’s quite lovely with potted plants and flower islands, complemented by replicas of Buddhist temples. No need to shop here since this was our destination.

Chiang Mai International is a little treasure of an airport--comparatively small to the other giants mentioned, but tastefully decorated and with a smaller and finer selection of handmade crafts from the region. The prices are also on par with what you can buy on the street in the city. For instance, they offer wonderful lacquerware, sculptured wooden masks and figures, mulberry journals and stationery, leather goods, amazing pottery, and orchids to go at great prices. They have an awesome lounge for premier members of the Star Alliance Group, where you can drop after you shop. They offer couches, refreshments, and hors d’oeuvres 'round the clock. You’ll also sample the best unsalted peanuts on this earth. You can also experience the heavenly Thai massage for about 40% more than on the street, but it’s well worth it.

Kansai International, in Osaka, is not a shopper’s paradise by any means. We spent 8 hours there, and came away with green tea cakes for Yen1000, which is about US$10. It’s an ultra-modern facility, with e-stands that offer free email; there are facilities for resting at modest prices, where you can also shower and exercise. Chuck found a plug where I parked myself with my laptop and sorted our trip pictures. English is not spoken here, and I found it difficult to order a cup of tea; newsstands cater only to Japanese-speaking folks. Smoking is permitted in eating areas. Avoid this one if you can and opt for Tokyo instead.

I don't know how to write one journal on the Grand Palace. The enormity and majesty of the place defies all reason. So, I broke it up in sections of interest so as to avoid my own confusion. The places that I highlight may not necessarily be the most important, but from a personal standpoint, I found them outstanding either from an aesthetic or historical angle. The most celebrated and religiously meaningful of the structures was that which housed the Emerald Buddha , and the events which led to its final destination were fascinating. There are a couple of other segregated areas I’ll take you to, such as the Upper Terrace , the area immediately visible from the entrance to the Grand Palace, as well as the Chakri Maha Prasat Hall which is a magnificent example of a blend of western and eastern architectures.

Let’s take a walk over to the Wiharn Yod which is at ground level; it is important to note that the wiharn is the focal point of any temple complex, and is almost always larger than all the other structures which surround it. It is the repository of Buddhist learning, where one can find depictions of the Buddha’s life and teachings on the walls. Its primary function is to enshrine Buddhist images. As such, the Wiharn must be splendidly decorated so as to emphasize its importance in the complex.

This particular Wiharn was covered in porcelain tiles which were made into flowers from Chinese dishes--these were broken during transport. It’s most appreciated with photos (next to being there, of course) and I have tried to to convey the beauty of the dishes by selecting the best four out of quite a collection. The work is infinitely intricate, and great care must have been taken to cover every part with porcelain.

Typical of such a building is its roof and eaves which remind me of majestic birds in flight. The roof is multi-tiered with projecting eaves to facilitate drainage; the tiles on the roof are perfectly aligned and glint in the sunshine. Unlike other Wiharns in Thailand, this building does not hold any convocations or ceremonies. On either side of the steps leading to the structure stand a pair of birds with garuda heads; the garuda is a mythical bird which appears mostly in Hindu and Tibetan texts, but has religious implications in Buddhism. It is also the symbol of Indonesia’s international airline.

Street Markets or sidewalk markets are ubiquitous in Bangkok, and in Chiang Mai, which I will write about in a separate journal. It is normally very hard for Chuck and myself to spot street vendors and not make them part of our day of exploration. At times, we will wander, linger and loiter to the point of missing a planned activity. But seldom have we ever been disappointed.

Our first exposure was the day we visited Wat Phra Kaew and the Grand Palace. We started walking toward Wat Pho , as we learned that this was the site of Thai massage, in addition to housing the famed reclining Buddha. On our way, we spotted sidewalk vendors across the street from the temple, with their wares neatly arranged on colorful blankets. How could we resist? Actually, we were helped, or shall I say, fell for, a common "trap" when someone told us that the Wat Pho temple was closed, hoping to lure us into something more lucrative he had in mind. We were only half stupid in this instance, and turned away from him and the temple and gave out attention to the sidewalk vendors.

. The snapshot of this experience remains one of a woman, and undoubtedly, there are hundreds just like her: minding her merchandise on the sidewalk, which she hopes to sell for a few bahts a piece, while chatting away on her miniscule cell phone. Most of the merchandise being sold is new, while a couple of vendors bring used clothing and kitchen ware. What is distressing is that some mothers feel that exhibiting deformed children will attract business.

The food displays were tantalizing, not only in their color, but the odors will flirt with your nose long after you’ve gone past the area. I found the making of tiny fried eggs absolutely precious as I had never seen the die cut forms for them which can accommodate up to 50 eggs! Mounds of fresh fruits and vegetables were very colorful and looked healthy. One particular fruit caught my attention, as it looked like an overfed strawberry with spikes on it. All signage is in Thai, which is a very graceful and rounded script; you might get lucky and catch an English phrase once in a while, such as one I caught, that reads "cookwith chaoaol" (sic).

There is something very real and tangible about street markets which you may not sense when in a more controlled or manicured environment. People are going about the business of everyday living, and should you care to participate, you may do so at your own risk. When we ventured further into narrow streets that led to hundreds of stalls selling talismans on wood or stone, vendors were more curious about us than we were about them. Most times, we were the only Westerners, but we knew we were really in Bangkok.

The Upper Terrace of the Grand Palace includes one of the most photographed monuments of Bangkok, the Golden Chedi (officially called the Phra Sri Rattana Chedi). Somehow, this statue has come to symbolize everything "Thailand" for me. The other monuments are the Mondop, a replica in miniature of the famous Angkor Wat (the original of which is in Cambodia), and the Royal Pantheon, which houses statues of the Chakri dynasty. The current King belongs to this family.

The Chedi served as a shrine of sacred Buddha relics. It is not an original, as I had thought, but a copy of another stupa that can be found at Wat Phra Si Sanphet, in Thailand’s old capital of Ayutthaya. It was built on the order of King Rama IV in the mid 1800s and has a hollow interior where the relics are stored. When we were being briefed about it, there was a rope sealing-off access to the stairs. The Phra Si Rattana Chedi is said to contain a piece of the Buddha's breastbone.

Our guide informed us that the building originally had a glass exterior that the next king had completely covered with gold tiles imported from Italy. The Chedi is visible from several vantage points in Bangkok.

We then moved on to admire the sandstone replica of Angkor Wat that was apparently built here as a reminder that Cambodia was once part of Thai sovereignty. King Rama IV ordered it to be built as well.

The next thing to visit and learn about was the Mondop, which we were only allowed to see from the exterior (as with most of the buildings here). What is a mondop? In this assemblage of buildings, it is the Royal Library, where the sacred scriptures of Buddha are inscribed on palm leaves (Tripitaka) and stored in a cabinet adorned with mother of pearl.

We had great fun around the Royal Pantheon which houses statues of deceased kings of the Chakri Dynasty. Demons and monkeys seem to support the base of the stupa, making it a popular photograph point for most visitors, who like to be seen mimicking the poses of the demons. This structure is also known as the Prasart Phra Debidorn. Other mythological figures can be found nearby such as the kinari and kinara, the male and female counterparts of a half-human, half-bird creature; both are believed to be celestial beings that spread goodness in the world through music and are beloved symbols in both Myanmar (Burma) and Thailand.

We were left some free time to take photos of the Upper Terrace and dance with the demons.

You could imagine yourself being at Versailles, or some other historical palace in Western Europe. If you look up high enough, you’ll instantly see the sweeping orange-and-green tiled roof with golden filials cutting through the air.

The battleship-green shutters evoke Victorian England; the manicured lawn and pole lanterns could easily be part of Paris’s Tuileries Gardens. But we are here in Bangkok, on the grounds of the Chakri Maha Prasat Hall, erected in 1882 by King Rama V. We were not permitted to enter the building, but our brochures on the entire Grand Palace site inform us that much of what is inside was heavily influenced by European culture:

"On the east wall is a painting of King Mongkut’s reception of the British envoy, Sir James Bowring. On the right wall is a depiction of the reception by Queen Victoria of King Mongkut’s ambassador at Buckingham Palace. Further along on the west wall is a depiction of Louis XIV’s reception in the Gallerie des Glaces at Versailles of the diplomatic corps sent by King Narai of Ayuthaya. A third canvas on the other side of the room depicts King Mongkut’s reception of a French envoy, and the fourth canvas features the reception at Fontainebleau by Emperor Napoleon III of another diplomatic group sent by King Mongkut..."

Chakri Maha Prasat was designed by a British architect to commemorate the centenary of the Chakri Dynasty and took six years to complete. The reception areas are the only ones used for reception of foreign dignitaries. The upper floors hold the ashes of Kings, Queens, and Princesses (ladies have a separate wing). Adjoining galleries contain portraits of the entire Chakri dynasty up to King Rama VII.

Guards are posted one either side of the entrance, and their demeanor is a weak imitation of the Royal Guards at Buckingham Palace. They do stand very straight and never smile; people were taking turns at being photographed with them, an exercise they must find completely boring. But then, it’s all in a day’s work. This is the only place I have ever seen Bonsai trees that are not miniature--their age probably reflects their existence during the first dynasty.

It was my understanding from our guide that the Buddhist-type roof was an afterthought, a sort of national endorsement. A harmony brings the two styles together, despite the gargantuan difference in style. This is usually the last stop on the tour, and most people linger there for photos and decide whether to continue on to Wat Pho, for which the price of admission is included in this ticket. I found outstanding flowers here as well--the very same they used in the reception area of the Oriental Bangkok hotel.

There were several other areas worth mentioning, but the group I wrote about are the ones that lingered in my memory most vividly.

The entrance to the Grand Palace does not fully prepare you for the treasures that lie ahead. To one side are a large group of armed soldiers sitting in an open barrack-like structure; to the other side is a low-ceiling building where I had to go and borrow some clothing to cover my legs and arms. For a deposit of Bs.100 (US$2.30), I was loaned a wrap-around skirt and a pink button-down shirt, which I kept open, as the heat and humidity was wreaking havoc on my hormones. As I returned, we started walking toward the official entrance to the palace grounds where some people were straddled on bamboo scaffolding, attempting to restore one of the roofs. Along the way, you will find vendors of ice water. Avail yourself of this because you will need it.

Free tours are offered in the most popular languages, and we had a thirty-minute wait until ours was to start. As you make your way in, you will immediately see an altar with lots of incense burning and food offerings. There is a statue of a hermit behind which there is a golden throne with a spire in the shape of a crown. Inside the open-faced gallery is yet another ticket booth, and this is where you sign up for your free tour. As you wait, you will not be wanting of anything to do: both of us had a camera and wandered off in different directions.

I found some delightful potted lotus and water lilies and this is where I came nose to nose with some porcelain walls which are photographed here . You may wonder why, in the presence of such awe-inspiring monuments, I chose to photograph plants. Two excellent reasons: a) Chuck is a much better photographer than I am, and I fully trusted he would capture some of the essence of what was there, and b) I am a total maniac when it comes to flowers.

I did take a walk back to the rishi’s (forest-dwelling Brahmin hermit ascetic) area which is surrounded by the three buildings; these were built by the fourth King, Rama, as a dedication to the first three, along with events esoteric to their reigns. Many people were in this "corridor," either waiting for a tour to happen, or taking pictures of the Upper Terrace. I ventured back into one of the galleries, and later learned from our guide that the scenes which are painted on the walls are a depiction of the Ramakien, which is a tale of the triumph of good over evil. Since these were painted during the reign of the first King Rama, they’ve had to be restored several times. Nevertheless, they are incredibly beautiful, and give the spectator a sense of movement, as the then King wages wars against Thostsakan to rescue his wife, Sita (pronounced Shita).

The Royal River Hotel offers shuttle service to this shopping complex, and the ride takes about 15 minutes, provided you do not meet traffic. While on the shuttle, there were brochures of the complex with 5% discount cards being offered to visitors. We took one. There are seven locations in the city of Bangkok which have the same profile; they are all called Central, followed by their location and the words shopping complex. Their flagship store is in Central Childom. It’s a great way to spend a rainy afternoon, and you’ll find familiarity and innovation here.

The complex is built around an atrium, and when you arrive in the center, if you look up, you will see six stories of shops that will satiate any kind of hunger you come with. Just as you will recognize the names of Bally, Casio, and Chanel, you will also see things that are a little different.

One of the most unusual and interesting attractions here is the Health Floor. Services include anything from facials to liposuction; Thai ladies are heavily involved in beauty. It’s not the sort of thing you expect to find in a mall; however, it is extremely tempting, as the prices are a fraction of what you’d expect to pay back home.

Another floor is dedicated to electronics, where Chuck had to make a stop, and bought a CVD movie disk set of Terminator 1 & 2 for Bs. 99 (approximately US$2.50) and two fairly current DVD movies, each at Bs. 249 (total US$5.75).

Floor #6 offers a huge movie complex, with eateries all around and a bowling alley.

Moving right along, you’ll also find a gigantic bookstore that also sells cards and magazines covering the whole gamut of usual interest, but all in Thai. It was easy to guess the themes, as you watched the women huddling in one corner and the men in the other.

On the ground floor of the atrium were several different types of merchandise, all heavily discounted up to 70% off, including washing machines and women’s clothing. See the picture below to get the feeling of the abundance of products in this place. It’s overwhelming.

Children are not left for wanting here: if they get bored, they can ride any of the toy animals that are also on the ground floor. There are also pushcarts that sell sugary snacks, such as banana chips and syrupy peanut brittle, which Chuck could not resist. We still have two unopened bags.

A combination supermarket/department store/eatery rounds out an incredible selection of anything and everything you could possibly wish to purchase under one roof and more. This is not a shopping complex, it’s an experience.

The Tuk-Tuk is the subject and object of much controversy; it is recommended as a mode of transportation in Bangkok for only short hops. The drivers are portrayed as dishonest, charlatan-like characters who purposely make detours to force tourists to frequent shops who will give them a kickback just for stopping. The vehicle itself is a cause for consternation due to the fact that it contributes to an already unbearable level of pollution in the city and elsewhere. The air conditioning you will enjoy is natural: when the tuk-tuk moves, so does the air around it. Voila, you are now conditioned. The majority of the drivers have absolutely no idea as to what you may be telling them; they understand words that denote destinations, and are amazingly accurate with numbers.

If you’ve never been driven anywhere in a tuk-tuk, you are definitely missing one of the most charming methods of transportation the city has to offer. Chuck and I enjoyed them immensely because of the dizzying speed with which the drivers move, and we hired them for longer distances than the norm. At the trip’s mid-point, we ended up purchasing face masks to alleviate some of the soreness that was developing in our throats.

One of our most vivid experiences was with the tuk-tuk driver who took us to Jim Thompson’s House ; he turned out to be a very articulate young man, whose English was lightly accented but delightfully understandable. He was willing to take us wherever we wanted, and we agreed with him that at some point, he could stop by one of his "tourist traps" and we would spend a few minutes there so that he could earn free gas for his vehicle.

While we toured the house and visited the gardens, he patiently waited for about ninety minutes or more; a smile was always on his face, which is rare with these drivers. He and Chuck began discussing sports, and he put me to shame with his knowledge of the football and baseball biggies. He wanted to go to America at all costs, and said he’d need to find a good job to enable him to do that; thus he was still in school studying. A particularly revealing moment of the trip came when a beggar walked toward the tuk-tuk while we were stopped at a light, and the young man reached into his pocket to give him alms. And he did it very simply and without much fanfare.

In fact, one of the stops in Bangkok we made to help him out turned out to be quite a find; I found a celadon vase with an embossed lotus leaf unlike any I had ever seen. We both purchased silk jackets that were on sale for US$10.00. A set of gold embellished porcelain dishes could have rivaled the beauty of Lenox or Limoges. We passed on that, although it was very tempting. The saleslady with whom I dealt was extremely professional, quick on her feet, and the calculator never left her hands. Once an object was selected, she’d instruct her staff to wrap it with the utmost care. Sorry folks, I don’t remember where this place is, nor its name. But, chances are that if you hire a Tuk Tuk somewhere along the street which leads you to the Oriental Hotel, you might get lucky and get the young man pictured below!