A Drive to the Smokies: Great Smoky Mountain N.P.

We enjoyed challenging hikes to panoramic views and waterfalls. Wildflowers appeared at higher elevations. Some of the quietest moments were on the shortest trails. Some of the scariest were when we were caught in a terrific thunderstorm at a high elevation on the Appalachian Trail. My respect for through hikers grew as I ate a hot meal in dry clothes knowing that they were still out there in the elements.

Quick Tips:

This is the most heavily visited park in the U.S. Knowing this, we planned our trip so that we would encounter the least possible traffic on the trail as well as on the road.

We beat the crowds by arriving in the Smokies mid-week during the interval between Spring and Summer breaks. By getting on the trail early, we had relatively little company along the way.

Each day we visited the Sugarlands Visitor Center for hiking suggestions. Here we met passionate volunteers, who were often more informative than the Rangers. Our best written trail guides were the Day Hikes Map (purchased for .00 at the Visitor Center Store) and 'Hiking the Great Smoky Mountains' by Rodney and Priscilla Albright (we found this at a local bookstore before we departed for .95).

For general information about the Smokies and the surrounding area, the book '100 Secrets of the Smokies' by Randall & Maryellen Duckett was great. There is something in this book for almost everyone. It is well worth the cover price of .95.

Best Way To Get Around:

There are only a few roads in this area. Most are scenic, but they can be congested. Whether in Gatlinburg or the Park itself, find a place to park for a while, then plan to walk.

There is only one lodge within Great Smoky Mountain National Park, and this can only be reached by foot. Therefore, the millions who visit this Park must stay outside its borders. Gatlinburg, Tennessee is a town of hotels. Many are independent. We chose to stay in this familiar chain hotel, which we found by surfing the Web.

The promotional literature promises a new property with a fireplace in every room (remember this is a big honeymoon town), a view of the river from our balcony and a free continental breakfast. Jacuzzi rooms were available for an extra charge, and are within the listed price range.

Breakfast was fairly standard continental fare - nothing outstanding, but adequate fuel for a day on the trail. The river view was not as romantic as one might think. Yes, a river ran right by our hotel, but everything here is so built up that the real view was of the hotel on the other side of the river! The gas fireplace was a surprisingly nice touch. We used it nightly and enjoyed the quiet light that it spread about the room.

On the whole, ours was an uneventful and satisfactory stay. The location was handy to both the Park and downtown. Given the other accommodations I saw, I would definitely stay here again.

When we decided to stay in Gatlinburg, we did not expect to find much in the way of great food. There are many chain and 'family' restaurants. These have their place, but they are generally not our style. Our '100 Secrets of the Smokies' guide directed us to this restaurant and promised gourmet fare.

Chef Jock's is located in a small, 1-story house on a side street. There are only a dozen or so tables. Even though we went late on a weeknight, the restaurant was relatively busy. Our table was set against a wall covered with autographed pictures of the celebrities who have dined here. The nearby windows were lined with empty wine bottles. The atmosphere here may be casual, but Chef Jock is serious about his food.

Everything we ate here was freshly prepared. One of the nicest things about the menu was a 'lighter side' section. My angel hair pasta with sugar snap peas, mushrooms and fresh basil had just enough garlic, olive oil and butter to make it tasty but keep it light. Dessert, raspberry crepes served with 2 forks, was a perfect ending to a truely great meal.

The trail to Laurel Falls is paved for its entire length. This is probably the main reason why it is rated easy. You will not need hiking boots to tackle this trail, and you can bring the stroller. Therefore, it seems that everyone who visits the Park takes this hike.

We avoided the crowds by hiking near dark. Although this trail is not flat, it was a very pleasant way to end our day. The trail goes right up to the waterfall and allows you to cross directly in front of it. A bench is provided at a strategic place on the far side to allow you to contemplate the beauty of this spot.

Cades Cove is one of Great Smoky Mountain National Park's major attractions. It's easy to spend a day exploring this peaceful green valley lying between the mountain ridges. Since this was once home to over 100 families, the focus of a visit to this area is human history. Bring a picnic and enjoy everything that Cades Cove has to offer.

The Cove is best seen via an 11-mile 1-way motor tour along the Cades Cove Loop Road. Begin your tour at the Orientation Shelter and pick up a Tour Guide for $1.00. The road passes by the cabins, churches and barns of this valley's former inhabitants. Be sure to stop at the Cable Mill Area to see the working grist mill, mill race, cantilever barn, blacksmith shop and other buildings.

The Loop Road provides access to several hiking trails. If time is short and you can only hike one, take a walk along the Cades Cove Nature Trail. In less than a mile, you will learn a great deal about the forest's resources and how they were used by the Cove's settlers.

It is possible to experience the Cades Cove Loop Road from the seat of your bike or simply on foot. The Park Service regularly closes the Road to cars so that visitors can pedal or hike this route. Check with the Visitor's Center for these special times.

The hike to Abrams Falls is one of Great Smoky Mountain National Park's most popular waterfall hikes. The trailhead can be easily accessed from the Cades Cove Loop Road. Therefore, you can expect company along the trail and at the Falls.

Overall, the trail descends to Abrams Falls. However, there are many ups and downs along the way. The broad trail begins by crossing a wooden footbridge. It then passes through a rhododendrum forest, which must be spectacular when in bloom.

After 2.5 miles, you will come upon a side view of the 20-foot high Abrams Falls. By walking along the large pool at the base of the Falls, it is possible to get an incredible close up of the falling water. Linger here as long as you like and then return by the way you came.

There is only one road traversing the ridge of the Smokies, allowing drivers to cross the Tennessee/North Carolina border. US 441, better known as the Newfound Gap Road, is a scenic drive in and of itself. It also provides access to many trailheads in the interior of the Park. The Appalachian Trail intersects the Newfoud Gap Road at Newfound Gap. There is a large parking lot here and the view is most impressive. It is here that Franklin Delano Roosevelt dedicated the Park. It is also the jumping off point for the hike to Charlie's Bunion.

From the Parking Lot, the Appalachian Trail ascends steadily 990' in 2.7 miles. It then levels out, or even descends a bit, before the final approach to Charlie's Bunion. It was along this 'flat' stretch that we found wildflowers and heard what we thought was a whipporwill.

The 'Bunion' is a rocky outcrop at a sharp bend in the trail. You will see it ahead of you as you draw within about a quarter mile. The view from here is outstanding and makes a great lunch spot.

Thanks to the easy access, this is a heavily traveled section of the Appalachian Trail. We encountered both day hikers and through hikers along this route. The hike to Charlie's Bunion is a classic Smoky Mountain long day hike. Don't miss it!

Got half an hour? The Sugarlands Valley Nature Trail is a great way to spend it. We came here at dusk and had this peaceful half mile circuit to ourselves. This trail is fully accessible and especially rich. The Park Service has done an exceptional job here.

As you stroll this completely level paved trail, you will pass the ruins of old summer homes, see the remains of an old road and stone wall, and hear (and possibly touch) a mountain stream. Interpretive exhibits are not just for those who can see. Because this trail is meant for all Park visitors, including those with challenges, it enables everyone to experience these woods to their fullest.

The hike to Ramsay Cascades was the toughest trail we tackled on our visit to the Smokies. The four-mile hike from the trailhead to the base of the 90' waterfall ascends 2,250'.

The trail follows the Ramsay Prong of the Little Pigeon River. The first 1.5 miles follow an old roadbed. Thereafter, the going gets harder as the trail becomes a woodland footpath. And what woods they are! Along this path we encountered wildflowers, rhododendrum jungles, birch trees which seemed to be standing on stilts and poplar trees so immense it would take the arms of five people to encircle them.

By the time we reached Ramsay Cascades, we had earned our lunch. We sat with others on the large rocks, munching and enjoying the view. As we retraced our steps back along the trail, we found that we noticed even more than we had on the way up. This was a great hike, worth every bit of effort.

A rainy afternoon sent us in search of dry clothes. To our delight, the telephone directory indicated that this store was within a couple of blocks of our hotel. We walked over and caught the store on a slow day.

Little did we know that we had stumbled upon a sort of Appalachian Trail landmark. Shortly after we entered, we heard another customer say, 'Say, isn' this the store that Bill Bryson mentioned in his book?' The answer came, 'Yep.' The Happy Hiker is indeed where the author of 'A Walk in the Woods' studied the 4-foot long map of the Appalachian Trail, discovered he had walked only 2 inches and came to the realization that he would never walk all the way to Maine.

This is a true backpacker's store. Polaroids of through hikers who have visited this shop are posted everywhere. You do not need to be an Appalachian Trail through hiker to be welcomed here. However, if you are, you will find everything you need for your trip. The folks here know their stuff and the equipment sold here is high quality. Need new hiking pants, boots, a walking stick or just a few postcards? This is the place to shop while in Gatlinburg.