Canals, Cannabis and Christmas Lights

Amsterdam is a museum mecca, with something to suit almost every interest and age group. If your schedule permits, arrange to visit museums during the week days when crowds are sparse. The shops are busy during the holidays, but join the throngs anyway and search for a novel holiday gift for yourself or someone back home. As well as department stores and smaller shops, Amsterdam has many wonderful markets to visit.

The Christmas light displays here are very different than those North Americans may be familiar with. Here, large shapes (made of wire perhaps) are festooned with lights and displayed: wonderful shapes like scrolls, flowers and giant butterflies.

Quick Tips:

Before heading off to Amsterdam, check out Board of Tourism website, where you will find all the latest information on what's happening in and around the city: where to dine, drink, shop, and how to get around Amsterdam and the Netherlands.

If you're planning a trip to Amsterdam, be sure to book your hotel a ways in advance, as rooms tend to be sold out in high season or during popular events such as the Cannabis Cup. Note, too, that many hotels may have a minimum stay requirement over weekends, so be sure to take that into account when planning a trip.

Best Way To Get Around:

The trams are frequent and inexpensive: one strippenkart (good for about 6-7 trips) may be enough for a long weekend and will only cost about (Euro). Amsterdam is also a good city to walk in, although make sure to watch out for trams and bicyclists when crossing streets! A hint to help find addresses in Amsterdam is that the smaller the number, the closer it will be to the Centruum (center) of the city. For example, Prinsengracht 230 would be closer to the center than Prinsengracht 1015.

The decor of Sirtaki is different from that of many Greek restaurants; the color scheme of soft terracotta, turquoise and white create a warm, modern effect. Individual oil lamps on each table combined with pinpoint ceiling spots enhance the cheery ambiance. Some modern renditions of typical Greek scenes comprise the artwork. Though only open four months, it already seems to have a loyal following, as it filled up fairly quickly on a Thursday evening.

The menu opens with a good selection of both hot and cold starters, such as tiropitakia (feta cheese and dill wrapped in puff pastry), feta saganaki (baked feta cheese), elies (Kalmata olives with pepperoni), and dolmadakia (stuffed vine leaves with rice). The entree selections include such staples as moussaka (layers of potato, eggplant, ground meat and bechamel sauce), keftedes (grilled minced meatballs), and souvlaki arni (grilled lamb pieces). Vegetarians might enjoy the vegetarian moussaaka or piato horta (a cold and hot mixed vegetarian dish.

For a starter, I selected feta saganaki. I was surprised that it was not flamed tableside, as I’ve customarily had it. Instead it was served warm with a crispy baked coating. I enjoyed it, but the latent pyromaniac in me missed the flames! The starter was accompanied by a small basket of fresh bread.

I choose garides fournou (shrimps from the oven) for my entree. Giant shrimp are served in a bowl and are cooked with chopped tomatoes and spices. Crispy French fries and rice pilaf complement the dish. Quite often I find that such large shrimp can be tough, but these weren’t and everything was piping hot. A couple of Methos (Greek beer) quenched my thirst and made quite a delicious, if untraditional, Thanksgiving dinner.

Diners can finish their feast with the traditional Greek baklava (puff pastry with nuts) for dessert, or, on the lighter side, a selection of fresh fruit. I had no room for dessert on this visit, but perhaps next time. Service was relaxed and friendly, and I managed to work in the few Greek phrases I know with Keriakos, the owner. Greek music plays in the background, though with the level of conversation being rather loud, its pleasant effect was almost superfluous. I’ve found though, the noisier the Greek restaurant, the more fun everyone is having.

Hours are 4:00 PM to midnight daily. Take tram #4 from Centraal Station and get off at the Prinsengracht stop. Alternatively, you could take trams 9 or 20 from Centraal Station, get off at Rembrandtplein, and walk south on Utrechtstraat for about 10 minutes.

Artwork, porcelains, military collectibles, old medical instruments, Judaica, clocks, watches, jewelry, glass, crystal, porcelain, ceramics, Asiatica, religious artifacts, and sculptures fill over 80 stands in this off-the-beaten-path antique center in Amsterdam, the largest of its kind in the Netherlands. If you collect anything at all, you will probably find it here. Even if you can resist such a treasure trove, it’s nonetheless a fun place to spend some time browsing as you wind your way through the maze of aisles. I collect Chinese snuff bottles, and was quite surprised at the number of these lovely little objects to be found at De Looier.

Unlike many antique centers I’ve visited where each person mans their own booth, if you find something you’re interested in seeing, you need to note the booth number (prominently displayed), then go to the nearest service bell to ring for assistance. A salesperson will quickly come over to help you. I assume that, as in most such markets, it is possible to bargain if you see something of interest.

If you work up a hunger or thirst shopping and browsing, the cafe in De Looier provides light snacks and refreshments for visitors. Hours for De Looier are 11:00 AM to 5:00 PM; closed Fridays, though the cafe is open until 8:00 PM. Admission is free. Take tram 10 to the Elandsgracht stop or tram 7 (tram 7 turns just after the Elansdgracht stop; get off just after the turn). The De Looier Antique Center is located in the Jordaan area of Amsterdam. For more information, phone (0)20 624 9038, send an email to info@looier.nl, or check out www.looier.nl, De Looier’s website.

Evenaar (Dutch for "equator"), a literary travel book store, was founded 11 years ago by two travel enthusiasts who spend much time personally reviewing their stock for the bookstore. This is not so much a place to buy travel guides (though they do stock Lonely Planet guides); rather it is a place that offers tales of the journey itself, whether spiritual, cultural, physical or emotional. Many titles are offered in both Dutch and English. For the collector, Evenaar offers a separate room with antiquarian travel books from around the world. Evenaar also offers a wide variety of foreign language phrase books; Fijian and Farsi among them. The friend I was visiting has an interest in Bhutan, and I was able to find a lovely book for him. My selection was colorfully wrapped when I indicated it was to be a gift. Evenaar’s website offers just a small selection of their wonderful variety of travel literature. For myself, I purchased a copy of Jeff Greenwald’s, "Shopping for Buddhas", a tale of Greenwald’s search for the perfect Buddha statue. There were several books by Freya Stark that also caught my eye...maybe next time.

On the 10th anniversary of the shop’s opening, the partners published a book of stories about the Equator. I was given a copy, and plan to make my way through it very slowly, using my limited Dutch and relying heavily on my Dutch phrase book. Hours are Monday-Friday, 12:00 N to 6:00 PM, Saturdays 11:00AM to 5:00 PM. Via tram, take 1, 2, 5, 13, 17 or 20 from Centraal Station, and get off at the stop just by Nieuwe Kerk; you’ll find yourself by the Magna Plaza Shopping Center. Walk west on Molsteeg, the street immediately north of Magna Plaza, and then turn south at the Singel. For further information, phone (0)20 6246289, email the store at evenaar-reisboekhandel@wxs.nl, or check out www.travel.to/evenaar, Evenaar’s website.

Leendert Schouten, who was a theological student in Utrecht, founded the Bijbels Museum, or Biblical Museum. The museum is located in two 17th century buildings on the Herengracht canal, and is the setting for the exhibit: Chagall: Windows for Jerusalem – The Creation of a Masterpiece, on display from October 12, 2002 through January 12, 2003.

Chagall designed these windows for the synagogue of the Hadassah University Medical Center in Jerusalem, and they rank among his most magnificent works. The windows took two years to produce, from the roughest preliminary drawings to their installation, and were inaugurated in Jerusalem on February 6, 1962. The theme of the windows is the 12 tribes of Israel.

When the Hebrew people left Egypt in a mass exodus, they were divided up into 12 tribes, which were named after their founders. These were the 12 sons of Jacob: Reuben, Simeon, Levi, Judah, Issachar, Zebulum, Dan, Gad, Asher, Naphtali, Joseph and Benjamin. Chagall’s concept came in part from the texts of the blessings imparted by Jacob and Moses on the night before their deaths. The grouping of the windows at the fundamental positions in the synagogue equates to the manner in which the tribes were grouped in the desert.

Chagall began the undertaking by creating drawings in pencil and india ink, and positioning the symbolic expression for each tribe. His next set of drawings, much larger in size, indicated areas of light and dark. Two final series of sketches finalized the linear and color composition of the windows.

In May, 1960, Chagall produced four trial panels, which glazier Charles Marq took to Jerusalem. There the windows were matched to the light and the scale of the manes was evaluated. Marq then fashioned the layouts of the lead cames, transferred them to glass, and made the windows. Chagall then began reviewing the windows, revising them and changing the tones; and sometimes lightening them with acid. In the end, Chagall was disappointed in the placement of the windows, and in the architecture of the synagogue.

There is a rack for coats inside the main entrance, as well as a small space where postcards, cards, books and other items are for sale. Additionally, there is a small cafe downstairs where light refreshments can be purchased, as well as a lovely inner courtyard garden and pond. Literature on the museum and on its exhibits is available in several languages. Admission is 5.00 Euro for adults; plus a 1.50 Euro surcharge for the Chagall exhibit. Museum hours are Monday to Saturday, 10:00 AM to 5:00 PM; Sundays and holidays 1:00 to 5:00 PM; closed January 1. To reach the museum, take trams 1, 2, or 5 and get off at Spui tram stop. For further information,phone (0)20 624 2436, email the museum at info@bijbelsmuseum.nl, or check out www.bijbelsmuseum.nl, the museum's website.

I visited the FOAM for the first time this trip to Amsterdam to see the exhibit Don McCullin – Or the Business of Being Human. This retrospective covers four decades of photography by Don McCullin, a British documentary photographer noted for his stark, raw images of war, famine and death. The locales go from Ethiopia to Berlin, 1961 for the construction of the Berlin Wall, to wars in Cyprus, Vietnam and Cambodia.

These are not "pretty" pictures: you don’t view this exhibit and admire his use of light, or comment on the photographer’s perspective. Rather, these are disturbing images, which drag the viewer into a refugee camp in the 1968 Biafra war of succession; they pull you into the hut of a dying AIDS patient in Zambia. His photographs of the construction of the Berlin Wall are amazing; you feel as though you are part of the crowd of on-lookers. It is not possible to come away from this exhibit profoundly disturbed. As McCullin himself says, "I have been criticised for forcing horrors into the view of complacent people."

Born in 1935 in London, McCullin grew up in poverty. In 1965, he won the World Press Photo Foundation Picture of the Year award for his Cyprus images. McCullin’s AIDS photographs were presented simultaneously in 2001 at the Whitechapel Art Gallery in London and at the United Nations. As a rest from photographing wars, McCullin decided to photograph society in his native Britain. In 1978 he did an essay on poverty in the English city of Bradford. The retrospective remains on display until December 8, 2002.

Also on exhibit at FOAM are young photographers’ works for the Joop Swart Master class 2002. There are 12 picture essays by the participants; all created based on the theme of faith.

The museum is in a primary residential area, just off Vijzelgracht. The decor is very modern, with white walls and metal stairs and pipes. There is a rack for coats downstairs. Just inside the main entrance, there is a small space where postcards, cards, books and other items are for sale. You’ll find a small cafe downstairs where light refreshments are served. Literature on the museum and on its exhibits is available in several languages. The museum is open daily, from 10:00 AM to 5:00 PM; the admission is 3.50 Euro. To reach the museum, take tram 16, 24 or 25 from Centraal Station; get off at Keizergracht stop. For further information, call (0)20 551 6500 or check out www.foam.nl on the web.

The National Museum from Musical Clock to Street Organ houses a wonderful collection of dancehall organs, carillon clocks, musical boxes, pianolas, and belly organs. Visitors learn about the evolution of mechanized musical instruments, as well as the importance of these in the Netherlands. These unusual instruments are demonstrated during tours of the museum: the knowledgeable guide on my tour gave information in both Dutch and English.

In the 14th century, the first programmed musical instruments – tower carillons – were heard in the Netherlands. Another popular type of mechanized instrument was the dancehall organ, popular in the south of the Netherlands and also Belgium. These were used primarily between the first and second World Wars. Some of these instruments were played by turning a large wheel by hand. This necessitated having more than one "player", as turning the wheel for a long evening of dancing would get very tiring. During the tour we were given the chance to try turning the wheel ourselves; I can’t imagine doing it for hours in a dancehall!

The museum is located in a 15th century church, which has been returned to its former beauty. Prior to 1586 when Choorstraat (meaning "Choir Street") was created, the main traffic in this section of the city was actually routed through the church. This accounts for the posted notice advising that during services leading cattle, horses and pigs through the building is not permitted. For a memorable venue, the museum can be rented for parties and other special events. It is also possible to rent some of the organs for indoor parties: music and instruction books are included.

There is a rack for coats inside the main entrance, as well as a very nice gift shop where postcards, toys, cards, books and other items are for sale. There is also a small cafe where light refreshments can be purchased, or where visitors can sit and wait for the next tour. Literature on the museum and on its exhibits is available in several languages. Trains to Utrecht from Amsterdam’s Centraal Station leave every 10-15 minutes and the journey takes about ½ hour; the roundtrip fare is less than $10 Euro.

When you arrive in Utrecht, wind your way through the extensive collection of shops in the station and head out the main entrance. You should see signposts pointing in the direction of the museum; if not, just stop and ask: the museum is less than a 10-minute walk from the station.

The museum is open Tuesday through Saturday from 10:00 AM to 5:00 PM, and Sundays and holidays from 12:00 noon to 5:00 PM: it is closed Mondays, January 1, December 25, and Queen’s Day (late April). Admission is $6.00 Euros for adults.

For further information, (0)phone 30 231 2789, email the museum at: post@museumspeelklok.nl, or check out their website at www.museumspeelklok.nl.

‘t Arendsnest (The Eagle’s Nest, a play on the owner’s name), is different from other beer cafes in Amsterdam. Cafe 't Arendsnest offers only beer from Dutch breweries. Lest the Dutch beer novice think this limits them to only Amstel or Heineken, they need not worry: there are more than 130 beers from the Netherlands, besides dozens more seasonal beers. The bartender readily answers questions and customers can not only drink a glass of beer but also learn something about it. I sampled several beers; one I particularly enjoyed was the Christoffel Blond (5.5% alcohol). Thinking I could stump the bartender, I asked if they had any beers from the Friesland province of the Netherlands. Sure enough, I was offered a lovely Waddenbier Blond from that region. My friend Jim tried it, and decided it was so good he had to have one himself. I finished off my "tasting" by trying a La Trappe Blond (6.5% alcohol), which is the only Trappist beer in the Netherlands.

I had an opportunity to speak with Peter van der Arend, the owner, who is a certified beer specialist, having studied in Belgium to become a beerologist. He has realized his dream of being able to introduce people to the wonderful Dutch beers from small, little-known breweries, with the opening of ‘t Arendsnest in July of 2000.

‘t Arendsnest is located in a lovely old building on the Herengracht canal. The room is long and fairly narrow, with dark wood paneling, wooden floors, and wooden tables, chairs and bar stools. Decorative copper pieces and large lamps lend a cozy air; this is a wonderful place to relax with a beer or two. Definitely an off-the-beaten-path spot, I think I was there only tourist there.

Hours are Sunday-Thursday, 4:00 PM to 12:00 PM, Friday and Saturday 4:00PM to 2:00 AM. Via tram, take 1, 2, 5, 13, 17 or 20 from Centraal Station, and get off at the stop just by Nieuwe Kerk; you’ll find yourself by the Magna Plaza Shopping Center. Walk west on Molsteeg, the street immediately north of Magna Plaza, and then turn north at the Herengracht. For further information, call (0)20 421 2057, email ‘t Arendsnest at info@arendsnest.nl, or check out www.arendsnest.nl on the web.

There are many seed shops in liberal Amsterdam, where marijuana is legal. However, Gypsy Nirvana Seeds Direct is not a "head" shop as some shops are. Rather, visitors are able to have a taste of the products, and try before they buy. This shop, as well as three others in the UK, offer their international customers quality seeds at reasonable prices, and are committed to providing superior seeds with high germination rates. Their goal is to take drugs out of back alleys, and encourage people to grow their own plants by giving away free seeds with every order.

The shop also offers a collection of beautiful glass pipes, art pieces and accessories, as well as books. Visitors can peruse the shop’s wares daily, from 12:00 Noon to 6:00 PM, call the shop at (0)20 638 0404, or visit their website, www.seedsdirect.to. To get to the shop via tram, take 1, 2, 5, 13, 17 or 20 from Centraal Station, and get off at the stop just by Nieuwe Kerk; you’ll find yourself by the Magna Plaza Shopping Center. Walk west on Molsteeg, the street immediately north of Magna Plaza, and then turn south at the Singel. The shop is about two doors down.

Customers wishing to place orders via the stores’ website are advised that they should check the legislation in their respective countries before placing orders, as not all countries share the tolerant view of the Netherlands.