Cairo, a city for all

Cairo is a massive city with more then 18 million people in it. I loved taking a taxi downtown to explore its back streets and hidden markets. My favorite place to go on weekends was the Khan El Khalili. It is one of the oldest markets in the Middle East and it has not changed much over thousands of years. You can find almost anything there from Bedouin drums, to old navigation instruments from ships in the late 1800's. The air is alive with the smell of water pipe smoke, freshly made humus, and the people that live and work in the market. There are endless pathways and alleys in the market, and stairs so worn down over time that it is more like climbing a ramp. Sellers sit outside of their stores enticing you to come in with the offer of a good deal or a cup to tea to relax you. If you buy nothing you can still spend all day talking to store owners and getting a glimpse of life for the average Egyptian.

Quick Tips:

If you go try and see the whirling dervishes who perform near the Khan weekly. They are a group of Sufi muslims who use music and dance in their religious practices. You should also spend a bit of time relaxing in the El-Fishawi Cafe, it was once a meeting place for local artists. Today it is full of locals and tourists intermingling over tea and a water pipes (shisha). The café is on a narrow street leading off al-Badistand street. Al-Badistand street is one of the main streets running through the Khan. If you go back more then once it is a good idea to walk around a lot your first time. This will give you a feel for the shops and allow you to see what the market has to offer. Don’t buy something at the first shop you come to, chances are it can also be found in numerous other shops. You can bargain, too, so find out what the average price of the item you want is and start from there.

Best Way To Get Around:

The only way to really get around the Khan is by walking. Getting to the Khan is a different question. For the inexperienced traveler the best option is to take a taxi. They are relatively inexpensive and easy to find. If you are adventurous and want to try public transportation, the crowded buses and mini vans have routes that go by the Khan. The local metro also has a stop nearby. Remember to be ready to walk when you get to the Khan so bring good walking shoes and strong arms if you buy a lot.

El-Fishawi Cafe is quite an experience. It is located right next to the Khan el-Khalili on Al-Badistand street, which is one of the main streets running through the Khan. Ask any person you meet when you are in the Khan and they will tell you how to get there.

They offer all sorts of drinks and small snacks. If you are looking for tea, they have two types. There is the Egyptian tea, which is a dark flavor filled tea and for those who like coffee there is "ahwa", which is a type of Turkish coffee popular in Cairo. Drinks are usually between 50 piasters and 1 Pound, or 12 to 50 US cents. If you are not sure what to get all of the cafes offer Lipton tea and it is called "shai ala bosta"...tea for the postman.

As well as tea there are traditional Egyptian sweets and side dishes. You can get salads for 3 Pounds, little meals for around 6 Pounds and main dishes are between 10 and 20 Pounds.

To add to food and drink many locals get a shisha (a water pipe). These usually run between 3-5 Pounds. They come in a verity of flavors such as peach, mint, strawberry, and apple. My personal favorite is the apple. Smoking a shisha is very smooth; the first time you do it you will probably think that you inhaled little to no smoke. However, when you breathe out to complain about how little you got, you will usually see quite a bit of smoke come out. Don’t forget that currency rates are changing all the time, so prices may be very different when you go.

This is a cafe where you can relax and watch the rest of Cairo walk by. I have spent many evenings here talking to Egyptians about politics, life, and the country that many of them love.