By the seventeenth century the Catholic Church was in full swing- and loving it. Around this time Rome set about a citywide beautification project involving Michelangelo, Bernini, and Co. By the time the Italian unification came galloping along in 1870 Rome was indisputably in the right kind of squeaky-clean condition needed to become the Italian capitol.

But after the colossal sites of ancient Rome, and the city centre, how do you decide what to see next?

The top thing about the Eternal City is that you can make it your own. There are lots of unexpected surprises lying in wait around Rome- they may not be a secret, but you’ll be guaranteed a small respite from the hordes. Ask around and explore.

Frolicking, experiencing the traditional cafes, and the unique Roman atmosphere have rarely seemed so appealing.

Quick Tips:

The sites, cafes, and restaurants are reason enough to spend time outdoors, but during the summer when temperatures sore outside isn’t always a great idea. If the heat’s getting nuclear try visiting one of Rome’s many fine museums, open during the afternoons, they allow you to slip away from the hottest part of the day unscathed.

If you’re an art or archaeology student the museums are free - good to know, and usually all you need is some proof of student id, a studious face, and maybe some wrinkled clothes for effect (everyone knows students can’t iron).

The Agony and the Ecstasy by Irving Stone (a novel based on Michelangelo’s life) and any books from the Didius Falco ancient Roman detective series by Lindsey Davis are some hefty/entertaining books to read based in the eternal city.

Best Way To Get Around:

Buses in Rome rarely run to schedule and seldom take you where you need to go. The number 64 running from Termini to St. Peters is an exception, but it’s also a thieves den for pickpockets- so be extremely careful.

Bierreria makes a good change from all the typical chequered-tablecloth restaurants in the area. The atmosphere is very warm and inviting- especially on a cold autumn evening- with long wooden tables, warm egg-yolk yellow walls and art nouveau murals of cherubs drinking from barrels of beer. You’ll be sure of leaving with a full belly and a nice relaxing evening, without being in the slightest out of pocket

The simple food is surprisingly varied, and ranges from simple Roman classics like carbonara (eggs and bacon) and arabiatta (spicy tomato) to hard core northern Italian food that sticks to your ribs and looks more German than Italian. The sausages and sauerkraut make a refreshingly nice change from all that tomato and pasta. That said though the homemade gnocchi in tomato sauce– little potato dumplings- are positively the best I’ve ever tasted. They dissolve yummily in your mouth.

Another nice thing about Birreria is the staff are quite refreshing- quite cheeky if you give them the chance, the little rascals. And once they’ve gotten to recognise you they go out of their way to make you welcome.

Pints and pitchers of Peroni, a great domestic double malt, are on tap and are pretty cheap for Rome. There’s even a good house wine and some nice classics in the cellar.

As things go this isn’t the place I’d recommend for newlyweds in search of Romance. It can get rowdy and crowded, especially on weekends and national holidays. But if you’re a group of friends looking for a chilled out place to eat, with something decidedly different, it’s certainly the place for you. And the best thing is that this place is just a hop, skip, and stagger from Trevi Fountain.

The drinks are standard- spirits and mixers, wine, and cocktails that come with pretty umbrellas, and fruit. The Jonathan – a cocktail made with five different white spirits- is great for obliterating any worries, such as that Gucci handbag you bought. If only you should be so lucky.

It does get a bit cramped inside, especially at weekends, so come before 10 if you want a space. In the summer extra tables are pushed into the small alley outside to make a bit of extra space for the punters. If Jonathan’s Angels is full, or it’s just not your cuppa, the bar next door is owned by the same biker-dude and is a more relaxed and un-kitsch version of what’s on tap next door.

I have to mention the loo (as does anyone else writing about Jonathan’s) is nothing but an experience. Whoever thought that a running fountain, plastic fauna, and cuddly statuary would enhanced the washroom experience is either a genius or mad. A mad genius, maybe? If you’re not really bothered with all that ‘finery’ (and who can blame you when nature calls?) then there’s a loo in the bar annex one door down.

Cin Cin (CHEERS)!

Or you can sod all that and come here to play at night because this place gets much more crazy at night, especially on weekends. If you miss your fellow countrymen don’t worry, they’ll all be here. Just come and get’em.

If you need some liquid help to pass those hours away, Vineria is the bohemian place to been seen smooching and networking. A bit of Trastevere on the wrong side of the river, with some great wine (try the brachetto) and a hip atmosphere. One of those places on earth that has a not too great staff, gets very crowded, and has more than its fair share of Italian prima donnas, but you still have a great time when you go. Secret of success I suppose.

Oh, and watch the pigeons.