Sevilla in 48 hours

Authentic restaurants that have been operating for over 300 years in the same location, tapas bars that are crowded with locals, and beautiful faces everywhere, Sevilla is what Americans think of when they think of Spain. Take a tour of the famous bullring and museum of which Sevillianos are so proud. Take a bus tour through Maria Luisa park, past the Plaza de Espana and the 1992 World Exposition center.

Be sure to save time for sitting at sidewalk cafes or lunching at tapas bars. Sevilla is the home of tapas and, while a little crazy between Noon and 1pm, they calm down later in the afternoon only to go wild again at night. Even if you don't speak much Spanish, you can make yourself understood. Go for it!!

Quick Tips:

Best Way To Get Around:

Walking within the Bario de Santa Cruz or within the Macarena is great, but if you want to get from one to the other, you better be ready for at least an hour walk. Find a good map (we never did) and the trip could take maybe 30 minutes.

Large, marble rooms with beautiful large bathrooms, king size beds, and nice furnishings surround you.

Hotel is in the historic Macarena section of winding streets and alleys with tiny shops and restaurants tucked into the most unlikely spaces. Look carefully or you may miss something wonderful!

The beautiful tile, iron, and marble work at this hotel make the price hard to believe. We booked for one night and liked it so much we stayed for two. Top quality amenities in the bathrooms, hairdryers and continental breakfast included, make this hotel a major price performer for the otherwise costly city of Seville. Book through bookings.org/es and get a $10 discount over the hotel booking rate. We paid $90 for our first night and $100 when we booked with the hotel to stay a second night.

Parking is available nearby for $11 night. Take a taxi from the hotel to almost anywhere in the city for about $4. It''s easier and cheaper than the bus for four people traveling together. We would definitely go back to the San Gil next time we are in Seville.

When we arrived at our destination, we found that the place was closed. Now we're in the Barrio de Santa Cruz in the old Jewish quarter with not a clue where to go to find another good restaurant. Our driver, sensing our dilemma, asked us if we wanted to try somewhere else that he recommended. We weren't sure what he said, but we said "yes" anyway. Heck, we were there for an adventure in a new place -- what did we have to lose. He brought us even further into the maze that is old Seville to the restaurant El Rinconcillo.

What a fabulous find!!! This has been a working restaurant in one form or another since 1670 in the same location. The decor looks like it has not changed a bit since then. Hundreds of hooks in the ceiling once held the famous hams of the region and a few precious delicacies are still hanging over the bar (although I am sure they are not 333 years old).

We were escorted to a table in the area behind the bar by Jamie, our English speaking waiter. Jamie was fabulous and took over our menu choices once he determined who wanted fish and who wanted meat. We left the rest up to him. He brought out platter after platter of ham, cheeses, roasted pepper salad, grilled baby fish, grilled grown-up fish... He was wonderful and explained every item to us including a tutorial on the various sherries for which Southern Spain is so famous. He even took the time to write down the names of some of the new things we tried so we would be able to order them again while we were in Spain. Our meal was so much more enjoyable because of Jamie.

We had at least 5 courses and multiple wines. We spent two and a half hours feeling like we were finally, really in Spain. Old men stood at the bar sipping their fino and discussing the problems of the world probably as they have been doing for over 300 years in the very same spot. The rooms are tiled and tables look like the originals from 1670. The food was wonderful and we would definitely go back when we are in Seville again.

But if you go to El Rinconcillo, you must ask for Jamie and you will be ensured of enjoying your time there eating, drinking and learning about the history of Seville and its cuisine.

Visiting Seville in early November, the traditional season for flamenco had long past and since there were many fewer tourists at that time of year, the hall, unfortunately was empty except for we four and about 8 other people. What a shame! It may have been due to the fact that we attended the early show at 9:00 p.m. Sevillianos dine at what is for Americans a very late hour. We suspected that the "cool" thing would have been to attend the 11:30 performance instead.

None the less, the performers danced, sang, played and clapped their hearts out without regard to the size of their audience. No narrative accompanies the performance and none is necessary. A varied folkloric show, it combines the pure and genuine flamenco art with classic Spanish song and dance performed by professionals. It mattered not a whit that none of us understood Spanish because no language is necessary. Somehow, you understand. The movements of the dancers and their flying feet tell a story that is an accompaniment to the music and becomes another instrument.

Flamenco is an experience for all the senses. Naturally, you are drawn to the movements of the dancers and as the wood splinters beneath their feet you marvel at the training and dedication it must take to perform the way they do. But to miss the music of flamenco would be to miss the music that portrays the spirt of Spain. You experience the Asian and African roots of the music in the clapping and chanting of the singers and dancers as they encourage each performer to continue. At the end of the evening we found ourselves almost as exhausted as the sweating, heaving dancers. You cannot help but feel their energy and their enthusiasm as you watch them perform rituals that have been passed down for generations.

Seville is the home of flamenco and to miss a performance while staying in that wonderful city would be a shame. Las Brujas is the only authentic tablao we have ever seen, but we would return again when we are in Seville and would definitely try others as well. We are hooked! The tablao performance area is separated from the bar and is air-conditioned. No smoking is allowed during the performance. Dinner and drinks are served prior to the performance and during intermissions. Price for ticket is approximately $31 US.