Annapurna: Trekking the Apple Pie Trail

The ancient temple complex at Muktinath with its miraculous flame which was the ultimate destination of the pilgrim trail which developed into the Jomson trek.

The remote and isolated villages of the Lower Mustang region are packed with authentic sights, sounds and smells of a rural community and offer a glimpse of a lifestyle unchanged for centuries.

From the Depths of the world’s deepest gorge to the views of some of the world’s tallest mountains from the summit of Pun Hill, the rugged landscape for which this region is justifiably famous is breathtaking.

Quick Tips:

Trekking in the region requires a pass issued by the Annapurna Conservation Area Project (ACAP) the NGO that administers this area, these can be purchased for 2000 NRs from the ACAP offices in Kathmandu and Pokhara.

This is a relatively well trodden track used by both locals and tourists alike, with lodges and tea-houses spaced at regular intervals along the way, making a local guide an unnecessary luxury.

The trek is not too strenuous and if you take your time and find your pace any reasonably fit individual should be able to manage it. Also if you pack only what you need you should be able to make it without a porter to carry your pack.

Best Way To Get Around:

The actual trek gets shorter each year as the road slowly encroaches on the region, but for the time being walking continues to be the only way to get around the villages of this mountain district.

Pokhara is the gateway town for this trek and you will probably start and finish there, it can be reached from Kathmandu by plane in 35 minutes for US or by bus in 8 hours for 200 NRs.

Muktinath, the start of the trek can be reached with a days walk from the airport at Jomson, which is reached by plane from Pokhara in 25 minutes for US, or with a 2 week walk from Besisahar over the Throng La pass on the Manang Trek to form the complete Annapurna Ciruit.

This region, whose name means 700 houses, consists of the 13 villages of the Kali Gandiki valley, which is the world’s deepest gorge. The region is situated in the lower temperate zone, the vegetation consists of mixed forests of spruce, silver fir, and cypress trees and the wildlife consists of warblers and tits with the occasional sighting of a Muntjac Deer. The predominantly Thakali people of this region are referred to as Tamangs and are divided into four clans, Gauchen ("Elephant"), Tulachan ("Dragon"), Sherchan ("Lioness"), and Bhuttachan ("Yak")--they consider themselves to be true Thakalis.

Ninety minutes outside of Mapha is the former administrative center of Tukuche (2590m). An hour beyond is the small village of Khanti Bagar, which is dominated by the gompa at Narsang Phant in the hills above. The Newari Pagoda-style temple contains a statue of the Hindu goddess Mahalaxmi who the Mahayana Buddhists worship as Nar Jyoboi, one of the eight mother goddesses. From here you enter into the twin villages of Kobang (2560m) and Larjung (2550m).

The 2-hour trek on to the twin villages of Kalopani and Lete (2480m) takes you through the villages of Kokhethanti and Dhampu and across the world’s deepest gorge. Annapurna I (8091m) rises to one side, Dhaulagiri (8167m) rises to the other while in the 35km wide gap between the two the Kali Ganadaki valley falls to 2540m.

It’s another 2 hours to Ghasa (2010m) although the actual border between Mustang and Myagdi districts is another hour away at Pamiro Thapla, Ghasa really marks the southern most extent of the Thakalis. The Ehukchamba Gompa housed in the Kagni (entrance gate) at the southern end of Upper Ghasa houses the last Nyingma-Pa temple on the trek, and the flat-roofed stone dwelling of the Thakalis give way to the mud and thatch homes of the Magars beyond this gate in Lower Ghasa. The contrast is quite startling.

The Myagdi district lies mostly within the sub-tropical zone of bamboo and rhododendron forests. The skies are full of swallows and sparrows, while Long Tailed Langurs can be spotted in the trees. The bark of the Muntjac Deer can be heard and if you are really lucky you may catch a glimpse of the elusive Red Panda. The people of this district are predominantly Maghar of Tibetan-Burman origin they have largely adopted the Hindu beliefs and customs of the Chhetris (warrior caste). The main crops of the area are rice and wheat and the fields are tilled by water buffalo.

A 2-hour walk from the district border through the small villages of Kopche Pani and Rupse Chhahaon, with its impressive waterfall, brings you to the village of Dana (1400m) which was until the early 1970s the capital of the Mustang district. This was an important post on the old salt route and the old merchant houses built in Thakali style bear witness to this. The finest of these is Bardali Ghar with its finely carved teak windows.

Another 2 hours beyond Dana is Tatopani (1190m) whose name means hot water. The well-maintained thermal springs here are a major draw. The 10NRs charge gives you access to two pools of differing heats, the bar and the massage room and makes the town a good place to break for the night.

The steep 2-hour climb out of the river valley is followed by a more gentle gradient for a further 2 hours through Ghara (1700m) to Sikha (1935m). There is then another 30-minute steep climb to Sikha Dettrali (2000m) before the final hour long assent up the steep slopes to Ghorepani (2750m) fortunately much of this area is swathed in rhododendron forests offering much needed shade.

Ghorepani has a well-developed tourist ghetto where you can spend the night before attempting the pre-dawn assault on Pun Hill. Named after an influential local family, this 3193m peak offers spectacular views of the Annapurna range and most trekkers set off early for the 45-minute assent from Ghorepani to catch the sunrise from the viewing tower or more often the tea house on top. From here you get particularly fine views of Annapurna I (8091m) the tallest peak on the range and the distinctive Machhapuchhre (6997m) also known as fishtail.

The track descends gently for 2 hours through Nayathanti and Banthanti (2300m) to Ulleri (1960m) where it begins a sharp hour-long descent down several thousand rough stone steps. The 2-hour walk beyond takes you through the villages of Tikhedunga (1515m), Hille (1475m), Sudame (1340m), and Matathanti before finally landing you in Birethanti (1050m) where you can break for the night. The final 30-minute walk through the bazaar town of Nayapul brings you to the bus stop.

This area, known as Panch Gaon (five villages) for Marpha, Chhairo, Chhimang, Syang and Thini, is the traditional heartland of the Mustang district.

The region is situated in the lower temperate zone of mixed forests, but the river valley itself is barren and inhospitable, swept by a vicious wind from around 11am until well into the night.

The people of this region are predominantly Thakali of Tibetan origin, traditionally an agricultural community the Thakalis came to dominate the trade routes with Tibet and prospered greatly as a result. Their architecture consists of large stone dwellings with flat roofs and ornately carved wooden windows and doors. The Thankalis of this region are refered to as Mawatans and are divided into four clans, the Lalchan (Ruby), Hirachan (Diamond), Juhara (Jewel), and Pannachan (Emerald), they are renowned for running the best lodges, not only in this region but throughout much of Nepal.

Jomson (2710m), a corruption of Dzong Sampa (New Fort) is a modern town, that was made the district headquarters in 1970, with little to recommend it, except that just south of it is the small village of Puthang which is where you'll find Jomson airport and the tourist ghetto that has grown up around it. 30 minutes south of Jomson is the village of Thini, reputed to be the oldest village in the valley, traditionally all the nearby villages had to pay tribute to the village in the form of produce or labor. The village is a jumble of tight alleys winding between traditional flat-roofed mud houses, somewhere in the midst of which you may, or may not find the quaint Bon-Po gompa.

High on the ridge overlooking the village are the ruins of Gharab Dzong, the fort built by King Thingmichen to defend the area. A path winds up the ridge, from behind, to the summit, marked by a chorten, from where you can examine the crumbling ruins and survey the area. 30 minutes from Thini in the small village of Dhumba you will find the serene Dhumba Lake and Katsaptenga Gompa. A further 30 minute walk crossing the bridge over the river brings you to the village of Syang (2700m), from where it is an hour's walk to Marpha.

This area of the Mustang district known as Bara Gaon meaning 12 villages although it now actually consists of 19.

The villages were ruled over by the Mustang Rajas whom, in the late 16th century built fortified palaces in Kagbeni, Jharkot and Dzong. These three villages along with Samar and Dakardzong became the Ghaba or capitals of the region, the most important village of Bara Gaon is however the pilgrimage site of Muktinath. The region is situated in the sub-alpine zone above the tree line and much of it is dwarf willow and juniper scrub. The people are predominantly Bhotias of Tibetan origin, although the Shayul, who are more closely related to the Thakali from further south, occupy the villages of Tetang, Chhuksang, Tangya, Tsele and Gyaga. Buddhism is the dominant religion of the district and gompas, chortens and mani walls abound, although traces of Bon Po, the animistic religion that predates the spread of Buddhism into the region can still be found particularly in the remote village of Lupra.

Whether you have just come over the pass or just flown in, it is well worth spending a relaxing day exploring the nearby temple complex at Muktinath (3800m). This has long been a site of pilgrimage and the nearby village of Ranipauwa (3700m) has a name that means "Queen’s hostel" and it was built by Queen Subama Prabha Devi to service their needs. The old wooden hostel with its large central courtyard and beautifully carved windows and doors is well worth a visit, even if it wasn’t for the fact that it is also the location for the police checkpoint where trekkers must register.

High on a ridge 30 minutes outside Ranipauwa is the village of Jharkot (3550m) home of a now crumbling 16th century fort and an exquisitely painted Shakyapa Gompa founded during the reign of King Chopse. Another 30 minutes on is the small village of Khingar (3200m) replete with picturesque apple orchards where you can relax in preparation for the 2 hour decent into the fortified town of Kagbeni (2800m).

Down the Kali Gandaki valley, 45 minutes outside of Kagbeni lies the new village of Eklaibhatti (2740m). The village’s name means "one teashop" although the town has expanded rapidly from this humble beginning and is currently in a pitched battle that is steadily eroding it back, trees have been planted and stone walls erected in an effort to prevent the village returning to it’s named origin. It is from here that you begin the climb up the ridge for the little walked path to the Bon-Po village of Lupra, 2 hours away. From here it is a two-hour walk along the riverbed back to Jomson.