Com está Barca

A May 2000 trip to Barcelona by Joel Best of IgoUgo

B&BMore Photos

¡ Hola señor, señora ! ¿ Hablas Inglès ? Barcelona, an inviting city with lots of contrasting things and a well for inspiration. As the centre of a powerful metropolitan region and the capitol of Catalonia, it's the city of Gaudí and modern architects. City of designers and artists.

  • 15 reviews
  • 1 story/tip
  • 16 photos

Com está BarcaBest of IgoUgo

Overview

MACBA
Barcelona is a city engaged in a continuous process of renewal and improvement that results in day-to-day gains in the quality of life. It has a rich cultural heritage of its two thousand year history, the reality of the present and the hopes of the future. Strolling through the streets and squares, you can enjoy the Roman walls, the Gothic Quarter, the architecture of the Eixample, the Modernism of Antonio Gaudí and work of Pablo Picasso, Antoni Tapiès and Joan Miró. And on top of that, the city has excellent facilities, modern services and its gastronomy is outstanding!

Quick Tips:

Everytime I walk to the Museu d'Art Contemporani de Barcelona (MACBA), I must admit it has become an indispensable point of reference for the artistic and cultural life of the city. This marvelous building by the American architect Richard Meier stands in the heart of the Raval neighbourhood, and forms part of an ambitious project for the urban renewal of the historic city center, Ciutat Vella district. I also went to visit the Fundació Antoni Tàpies and I was really impressed by his work. I even felt a little bit ashamed I didn't know this Catalan painter. I admired the diversity in its approach and especially the works that combined sand, glue, ink and paint! Impressive. And so is the pavilion, Bauhaus architect Mies van der Rohe designed for the world exhibition. It's so modern it could have been built now.

Best Way To Get Around:

B&B
I've been visiting Barca for the third time. Some friends of mine, who arrived one day earlier, have found a nice B&B near Urgell metro station in the centre of the city. That's if you don't mind if the lady of the house, Elisabeth Medina i Romani, Ely for friends, talks and talks the whole time you're in. Apart from that Spanish flood of words, it is perfect. It's one the first floor of a huge apartment (so it is silent) and there's a small terrace on the backside so you can eat breakfast in the outside at dawn. Have a look at http://nextdada.luc.ac.be/life/2000/000522.html
  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by Joel on August 31, 2000

Elisabeth Medina i Romani (Ely)
Gran Via 529 pral.1 Barcelona, Spain
93 4546264

MundanzasBest of IgoUgo

Restaurant

Mundanzas
One of the cafes I certainly go to when I'm in Barcelona is Mundanzas in the same street as the Picasso Museum. It is a stylishly decorated and quiet cafe with a good taste of music and magazines. If it's too hot outside this is the perfect spot to cool down. We should me there sometime.
  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by Joel on August 31, 2000

Mundanzas
Carrer de la Vidriera Barcelona, Spain

Cafe de l'OperaBest of IgoUgo

Restaurant

Who doesn't loaf about the Rambla when visiting Barca? Should I mention once more there's always something going on in this popular street? The Liceu Theatre has just been restored and it's always nice to visit the Mercat Boqueria early in the morning or Plaça Reial. And of course, another favorite of mine, a typical cafe named Cafe de l'Opera lies in this street. I never leave Barcelona without a cafe con leche in this place.
  • Member Rating 3 out of 5 by Joel on August 31, 2000

Cafe de l'Opera
The Rambla Barcelona, Spain

Els Quatre GatsBest of IgoUgo

Restaurant

Whether you just feel like a drink, after strolling through those narrow streets, try Els Quatre Gats - a nicely refurbished establishment that was the cradle of the Art Nouveau movement in Barcelona. At the end of the 19th century this was the meeting place of a whole generation of great artists and bohemians, including Picasso, Casas, Nonell, Russinyol and others. Now, featuring the same classic decor, 4Gats has re-opened to offer people a fascinating ambience for dining.
  • Member Rating 3 out of 5 by Joel on August 31, 2000

Els Quatre Gats
Montsió 3bis Barcelona, Spain

Los CaracolesBest of IgoUgo

Restaurant

A very special establishment is Los Caracoles which was founded in 1857. It is a typical spot with an outdoor grill. The counter in its entrance is the perfect place to have a drink while waiting for a table. Its dining rooms, covered with lots of photographs of famous international people who've been there, and private halls inside, together with its exquisite attention to diners, make this a good choice for any visitor who wishes to enjoy Catalan cooking in a unique setting!
  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by Joel on August 31, 2000

Los Caracoles
Escudellers 14 Barcelona, Spain
(93) 302-3185

Tapa TapaBest of IgoUgo

Restaurant

There are certain times of day when you may hesitate between 'dining' or 'snacking', that is sitting down to a full meal or indulging in the favourite local pastime of nibbling on exquisite 'tapas'. In fact, the Passeig de Gràcia has become a paradise of these little tidbits. The establishments serving quality 'tapas' are open from early in the morning till very late at night. Tapa Tapa was the pioneering 'tapa' bar in the area and is a favourite among connoisseurs. It offers over eighty original delectable varieties of these appetizers, which makes it sometimes hard to choose. Its creative combinations and quality ingredients have created a genuine passion for 'tapas' in this city (if you can read between the lines, you know I've been there often!).
  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by Joel on August 31, 2000

Tapa Tapa
Passeig de Gràcia 44 Barcelona, Spain

Qu QuBest of IgoUgo

Restaurant

You must also pay a visit to Qu Qu (Quasi Queviures). This 'tapa' bar is decorated in the classic style of grocery shop-wine cellars. The quality of its wide offering of Iberian and Catalan charcuterie, cheeses and patés, which are on sale at the shop counter, is complemented by its fresh-baked bread and its assortment of 'tapas', salads and omelettes. Hmm, I'm getting hungry again.
  • Member Rating 3 out of 5 by Joel on August 31, 2000

Qu Qu
Passeig de Gràcia 24 Barcelona, Spain

Can MargeritBest of IgoUgo

Restaurant

Near Metro Poble Sec. Open Monday to Saturday from 20h to 24h. It's like sitting in a wine cellar. The owner has a special sense of humor. Ask for the speciality of the house, and you won't be disappointed!
  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by Joel on December 7, 2000

Can Margerit
Calle de la Concòrdia 21, Poble Sec Barcelona, Spain
(34) 416-723

KukuxumusuBest of IgoUgo

Attraction

If you're looking for little presents you should go to the T-shirt store called Kukuxumusu near Santa Maria del Mar. The have many T-shirts with cool designs.
  • Member Rating 2 out of 5 by Joel on August 31, 2000

Kukuxumusu
Argenteria 69 Barcelona, Spain

KrisisBest of IgoUgo

Attraction

If you are looking for cool and colourful sunglasses, you should go to Krisis near Plaça del Pi (Carrer de la Boqueria) in the Barri Gothic.
  • Member Rating 2 out of 5 by Joel on August 31, 2000

Krisis
Carrer de la Boqueria Barcelona, Spain

Plaça de Santa Maria del Pi
When I faced the sea from the top of the Ramblas, at Plaça Catalunya, the historical centre, known as Ciutat Vella, is in front of me. This is Barcelona's Old Town that's built around La Seu Santa Eulalia, a Gothic cathedral. It forms a quarter that is both monumental and picturesque. It's also a quarter of quaintly narrow winding streets and public squares of ludicrously small dimensions. If it is necessary to stroll through a city in order to really appreciate it, strolling is an unquestionably enjoyable necessity in Ciutat Vella. Needless to say, no one should fail to saunter down the full length of La Rambla. This street runs straight through the Barri Gòtic. At any time of day this boulevard contains a mixture of native Barcelonans, tourists from around the world, street musicians and performers. There's a lot of activity around the many newspaper-kiosks, flower and pet shops. It looks like everybody uses this street to go to work or make an appointment with his or her friends on a terrace underneath the big plane-trees. One should certainly not miss the shop-porch ornamented with sumptuous mosaics, enherited from the Barcelonan Jugendstil period (Pastas Alimenticias) and the Mercat La Boqueria, a lively covered market place. A small street off the Ramblas, near the cosy cafè de l'Òpera, a perfect place for a cafè amb llet, leads to the magnificent Plaça Reial where once stood a Franciscan cloister. Nowadays it's a nice square with lots of terraces, a fountain and big waving palm-trees. Near the Ramblas, in a spacious square amid a maze of quaint little streets, stands the Museo d'Art Contemporani de Barcelona (MACBA), a colossal white building designed by the famous architect Richard Meier. The building (Plaça dels Àngels s/n.) itself is worth while visiting! In my humble opinion, this is the perfect concept for a museum of contemporary art.
  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by Joel on August 31, 2000

Las huellas de dos mil años de historia
Ciutat Vella Barcelona, Spain

El nucleo modernistaBest of IgoUgo

Attraction | "El nucleo modernista (Gaudi)"

Casa Batlló
Barcelona is known around the world for its celebrated painters and its Modernism, or what in other European cities was to be called 'Art Nouveau' or 'Jugendstil', whose typical traits are a variety of forms and a wealth of ornamentation. Modernism was the physical incarnation of a certain spirit, a state of grace, in the 15 years from 1895 to 1910. Nor was it mere chance that Barcelona, and Catalonia in general, was the only place in Spain where Modernism developed a strong local flavour and resulted in significant achievements. The Eixample, which occupies a large part of the centre of today's Barcelona, is the main focus of Art Nouveau buildings and monuments. Though Catalan Modernism encompassed all the arts, it was undoubtedly architecture that gave expression to its greatest genius and most successfully showed how the movement could bring together various currents. The fact that the zenith of Modernism coincided with the period of construction of the Eixample gave this district of the city a sense of richness and unity that is quite unique and considered to be the most important 'Art Nouveau' urban ensemble in Europe. This extremely large district of the city is the site of the well-known trio: Casa Lleó Morera (Passeig de Gràcia 41), Casa Amatller and Casa Batlló (Passeig de Gràcia 43), which were respectively designed by the architects Domènech i Montaner, Puig i Cadafalch and Antoni Gaudí. Gaudí gave the whole building a decorative design based on organic shapes. Particularly impressive is the effect of the morning light reflecting on the numerous fragments of glass and ceramic embedded in the façade. The balconies and the rooftop feature shapes like masks and fish scales. The roof is topped by a kind of multi-coloured fish bone and also prominent is the organically-shaped cross crowning the well of the spiral staircase. The stained glass features many circular pieces in relief and the multi-coloured glass is lined with lead. If you got the chance, try to have a look inside too.
  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by Joel on August 31, 2000

El nucleo modernista
Eixample Barcelona, Spain

Casa MilaBest of IgoUgo

Attraction | "Casa Mila (Gaudi)"

On the Passeig de Gràcia, on the other side, you can find another singular masterpiece of Gaudí, Casa Milà (Passeig de Gràcia 92), nicknamed La Pedrera, literally 'the stone quarry', due to the appearance of its majestic façade. La Pedrera was built between 1906 and 1912, at the peak of Gaudí's career, when he had firmly established his architectural mode of expression and formulated the aesthetic that was to characterize him definitively. La Pedrera has a structure of arcades, one above the other, attached to the rest of the building by wrought-iron girders within the stone. It's an organically expressive architecture, endowed with great plasticity and formal richness, which has become one of the most characteristic symbols of the city of Barcelona. When passing this way it is a good idea to enter La Pedrera. The doors, furniture, wrought-iron grilles and railings, locks, ornamental motifs on the ceilings and walls, elevator cages, tiles, gargoyles, etc... all the details and finishes, supervised directly by Gaudí, bear witness to his attention to create a total work of art. If you go up to the terrace on the rooftop, built at several levels linked together by steps, you can see it is dotted with a number of ceramic-coated chimneys and ventilation towers of nearly anthropomorphic shapes which often bring to mind medieval warriors. An exhibition offers the visitor a comprehensive and truly fascinating view of the whole scope of Antoni Gaudí's work. This is an essential place to visit for anyone interested in the life and work of some of the outstanding figures of world architecture. One hardly need to mention that the architect Antoni Gaudí - and the few city blocks known as the Quadrat d'Or, literally the 'golden square', make up an architectural monument that is worth special attention. By following 'the Modernism route' you get an excellent idea of Barcelona's 'Art Nouveau'. It suggests visits to fifty different buildings (the Montaner palace, the Thomas house, The Lamadrid house, the Llopis Bofill house, etc.) and you won't regret it, if you, of course, intend to walk. The only limitation is the visiting hours, but it is really worth while looking at the outside façades too.
  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by Joel on August 31, 2000

Casa Mila
Passeug de Garcua (No. 92) Barcelona, Spain

Park GuellBest of IgoUgo

Attraction | "Park Güell"

Park Güell
To the north of the Barcelona district of Gràcia lies an urban park. Gaudí planned and directed the construction of a garden suburb, the Park Güell (1900-1914), for Eusebio Güell as the infrastructure and facilities for a residential garden city based on English models. Park Güell was intended for sixty single-family residential living units, isolated in a sunny area in a country estate on the Montaña Pelada, in the Tres Turons district of Barcelona. The project, however, was unsuccessful and the park became city property in 1923. Still, it is one of Gaudí's most colorful and playful works even though it was never fully completed.

Two pavillions at the main entrance, the porter's lodge and the administration, complete the wall surrounding the park. These pavilions are of stone with rooms of Catalan vaults of flat-laid brick finished with pieces of broken ceramic called trencadís. The ceramic trencadís follows the sinuous geometric surfaces, a device which gives all of the park's ornamentation a unique beauty. Each of the roofs is crowned by a small dome and above all stands a tall, spiral-shaped tower adorned with colorful tile and topped with Gaudí's characteristic four-branched cross.

A grand stairway, divided by the often photographed mythological figure of a lizard, leads to the large hypostyle hall meant to be a local market for the use of the inhabitants of the park, and also to the large lookout plaza, which formed the roof of the market. The most outstanding element of the plaza is the balustrade and bench in combination, which set the limits of the plaza above the colonnade. The extraordinary balustrade-bench twists in serpentine manner to form winding courses, recesses, and small semi-enclosed areas where the facing of brightly colored trencadís creates a spectacular collage of color and texture. For the creation of this winding bench and the beautiful keystones of the hypostyle market place, Gaudí had the collaboration of the architect Josep Maria Jujol.

It is in Park Güell that references to historical styles have been abandoned by Gaudí, who now makes use of complex geometrical forms and the splendor of the colour and the finishes constitute the most specific aspect of the contribution of Gaudí to the Modernista blossoming of the turn of the century. In the park stands the house which Gaudí had built for his own use, the work of his disciple Francesc Berenguer (1905). The house has since been converted into the Casa-Museu Gaudí. The museum has notable examples of furnishings designed by Gaudí as well as personal memorabilia. Park Güell was declared a place of World Heritage by UNESCO in 1984.

  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by Joel on August 31, 2000

Park Guell
Montana Pelada Barcelona, Spain

Near Museu Picasso I bumped into an internet gallery cafe named bcnet (Barra de Ferro 3). There's a beautiful exhibition of black & white photographs shot in far-off countries. If you wanna use their internet service, it costs about 250 Ptas per 15 minutes.

About the Writer

Get the Word Out

Share this travel journal beyond IgoUgo with your favorite sharing tools.