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Kauai

Kauai--The Most Romantic Island In Hawaii

Panoramic view of the secluded beach at Allerton GardenMore Photos

by PDJ

An August 2002 travel journal

Last Updated: August 11, 2006

Journal Usefulness Rating 6 out of 5
Journal Usefulness Rating
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I have visited three islands of Hawaii and read several guidebooks about Hawaii. So far, I give Kauai the most thumbs up for combined quality of beauty, variety, preservation, and availability of modern convenience for vacationers. That makes this island very romantic.

Panoramic view of the secluded beach at Allerton Garden
I have visited three islands of Hawaii and read several guidebooks about Hawaii. So far, I give Kauai the most thumbs up for combined quality of beauty, variety, preservation, and availability of modern convenience for vacationers.


As the oldest among Hawaiian isles, it has had the most time to be sculpted and adorned by the nature. But the local government restricts development and commerce so as to preserve the rare beauty, which is the reason why you will not see a building over three stories (except Princeville Resort, which is built in steps, so technically, they are no more than three stories high at any one point). The island, though small, varies its landscape with lush tropical mountains, rivers, waterfalls, dry canyons, pristine beaches, and grand cliffs sculpted with caves and coves.


Kauai has more timeshare resorts than any other Hawaiian isles. I like them for more home-like ambiance and flexibility to cook your own meal. Although more laid back than Oahu or Maui, Kauai is no less abundant in tours and rentals for various activities including snorkeling, hiking, horseback riding, kayaking, sailing, and surfing. Of course, there are also several luaus with Hawaiian dance and music. In other journals, I will share with you what not to miss and how and when not to miss them.

Quick Tips:

In the summer, trade wind blows from southeast, causing big waves along the south and east shores but leaving west and north shores calm. In the winter, the wind shifts to northeast.

If you like to snorkel in some of Kauai’s best coral reefs or sail to Na Pali coast, summer is the best time. You will have more rain in the summer generally and particularly in the east and north where higher mountains cause clouds driven by trade wind to unload. So if you like sunny weather, stay in the southern part like Poipu, either in the summer or winter. But if you like paradise-like scenery and don’t mind more frequent showers, stay in Princeville--it’s the ultimate.

Also, if you want to sail to Na Pali or take a helicopter ride over Kauai (I suggest you do either or both), you can take advantage of huge discounts offered by some timeshare resorts. You just have to attend their one hour presentation. Tour discount centers may offer some discount with no string attached. However, if you want the best sails and helicopter rides in a busy season, you should make reservations in advance with little or no discount.

Best Way To Get Around:

You'd better have a car, unless your hotel provides airport pick up and plan to rely on tour operators for pick up from your hotel.


Na Pali coast is best seen from the air or water, but very difficult hiking trails will take you to the places where boats and helicopters are not allowed to land.

Princeville golf course view around Pahio at Bali Hai
Best Things Nearby:
Great scenery. A secluded upscale neighborhood. A golf course that seems to run through the whole town. Cliffs to watch sunrises and sunsets from. Grocery store and shops about five minutes away. Town of Hanalei with more shops and activity centers about 15 minutes away. Several excellent beaches within 5 to 30 minutes of driving.

Best Things About the Resort:
Bright rooms with adequate amenities, including private laundry facility.

Resort Experience:
Pahio at Bali Hai was not my first choice for our visit to Kauai in the summer of 2002 because its photos on RCI directory did not appear that appealing. However, after I visited Pahio’s website and saw its floor plans and photos of rooms, I was impressed with the clean and bright appearance. I called Pahio reservation about a month before check-in date and asked for a room with a nice view. The representative politely obliged to do her best.

I was not disappointed when I arrived in Kauai. First of all, you can check in at the airport, get your key, and drive right to your unit. To get to the resort, you drive through the beach towns of the east, lush green forests along the north shore, and then through an upscale neighborhood of Princeville, of which I am sure the houses are worth millions of dollars. Although I did not have the ocean view I had hoped for, our unit faced the green Princeville golf course with the backdrop of mountains. The property is about a half mile away from the sea cliffs and did not have a very good ocean view anyway.

The rooms were truly bright, decorated by whitewashed rattan furnishings with pastel colored fabrics. Our unit was equipped with its own laundry facility, which was great because we used it almost everyday due to beach activities. Each room came with its own TVs and the living room also had a VCR and a stereo system with a CD player. Kitchen equipment and facility were all new, adding to the pleasantness. A balcony outside of the living room had a table large enough to accommodate five of us, although we had to bring out an extra chair from the inside. We had many breakfasts and lunches there.

Plenty of activities were offered, both educational and recreational. They had a slide presentation of ocean’s ecosystem, scuba demonstrations, a round of golf, and even a yoga class, to list a few. They also organized a potluck for all the guests of several Pahio resorts in Princeville with free Mai Tai drinks, Hawaiian musicians, a hula dancer, and raffles. The best thing about this resort was, however, its situation in the most beautiful town in Kauai--Princeville. If you ever get to stay in the area, take a stroll along its golf course or to the nearby cliffs around sunrise or sunset and you may wish you were there to stay for the rest of your life.

  • Unit Type: 2 Bedroom
  • Activities: Good
  • Amenities: Good
  • Unit Satisfaction: Good
  • Family Friendliness: Good
  • Service: Fair
  • Member Rating 3 out of 5 by PDJ on November 1, 2002

Pahio at Bali Hai Villas
4970 Pepelani Loop Kauai, Hawaii
(808) 826-6549

Swimming pool at Radisson Kauai
For a few days of stay in Kauai, I wanted a nice hotel with a central location and tropical ambiance that didn’t break my budget. Radisson Kauai Beach Resort soon appeared in my search screen.AN UNDERRATED HOTELThe three-star rated hotel had many nice amenities and facilities comparable to a luxury hotel. It is very close to the Lihue airport and is central to most attractions in Kauai. The entrance is fairly impressive with torch lights and tree groves lined up along the drive. Free valet parking is available there. The lobby is elegantly furnished and brightly lit with large chandeliers. Among other things, you will find your spacious room equipped with Queen Anne-style furnishings and a 27-inch screen TV with internet access and a remote keyboard.VERY PLEASANT HOTEL GROUNDOutside, the resort has two large swimming pools, a jacuzzi, a fresh water lagoon, a bar, plenty of lounge chairs, and wooden bungalows. So what’s so special about these? The photos below will answer that question. The beach just outside is windy and untamed, its current too strong for safe swimming most of the time. However, you shouldn’t miss a walk along the shore at sunrise, when it can be almost a spiritual experience (see my journal titled "A Romantic Walk On The East Shore"). ENTERTAINMENTMusicians and hula dancers perform every late afternoon by the pool, preceded by a torch-lighting ceremony. Boys and men, if you are tall and handsome, be prepared to be abducted by the hula dancers during the show and not be released until you have hula-danced with them. The resort also has luaus a couple of nights a week and a compilation of some Broadway shows in Thursday evenings. One suggestion: If you plan to go to only one luau during your stay, go to Smith’s Tropical Paradise Luau; it has the most impressive show in Kauai.EAT, DRINK, SHOP, AND WHAT ELSE?The hotel has a nice restaurant which serves breakfast buffet and American style dishes for all meals, at fairly reasonable prices between $10 and $20. The restaurant has outside tables on a terrace—a favorite place for guests except when raining. A bar inside serves drinks, and local musicians (usually with hula dancers) perform there in evenings, which can be an overkill unless you have just arrived and are dying to hear Hawaiian music. A coffee shop serves Hawaiian coffees (what else?) with some pastries; you can also rent computers for about $10/hour. Note: for the same price you can get internet access on your room TV for one full day. There is also a gift shop, an art gallery and activities center. For guests who just arrived, they offer a presentation about Kauai with free breakfast buffet--it’s pretty informative and they treat you well until you decide not to buy their tours. (Just kidding.)

For more information, check out www.Radisson.com and search for the Lihue location. Special vacation packages are available through RCI as well as discounts through AAA and other memberships.

  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by PDJ on November 7, 2002

Radisson Kauai Beach Resort--Luxury For Less
4331 Kauai Beach Drive Kauai, Hawaii
1(808) 245-1955

Before sunset, overlooking Hanalei Bay
If you are looking for a restaurant with a nice view as well as good food, Hanalei Cafe has got to be it. The restaurant overlooks Hanalei Bay and "Bali Hai," made famous by the movie "South Pacific" (1958). I can guarantee you that there is no other location more romantic and awe-inspiring than this restaurant, which is set on a terrace of the resort.

WHEN TO GOThe perfect time to go dining is about one hour before sunset. By being there early, we avoided crowds and chose the best possible table even without a reservation. Glass-like water pool by tables and calm waters of Hanalei Bay surrounded by mystic mountains shrouded with clouds were truly mesmerizing. When the sun set over the Pacific horizon with colorful glow in the sky, many guests were out of their seats clicking away their cameras as if they had not seen a sunset before. Indeed the sunset appeared different, and you can only experience it by being there.

FOOD AS AN ACCESSORYNeed I tell you about their food? The scenery is sumptuous enough that I wondered why they even serve food there. But as a courtesy, let me list some of their delicacies:


- Steamed Hawaiian Snapper with ginger, cilantro, shiitake mushrooms, and green onions


- Macadamia Nut Crusted Chicken Breast with grilled vegetables and guava butter sauce


- Broiled Japanese fresh water eel over steamed rice with a mirin shoyu sauce, served with miso soup, pickled vegetables, and green salad


The menu is more eclectic than American, but then what is American if not eclectic? Bon appetit.

  • Member Rating 5 out of 5 by PDJ on November 1, 2002

Café Hanalei
5520 Kahuku Road Princeville, Hawaii 96722
+1 808 826 2760; +1

A water fall and a sea cave in Na Pali Coast

Na Pali coast is probably one of the most filmed location in Kauai for Hollywood movies. The majestic cliffs, with caves and coves of secluded beaches, made the coast ideal for movies like Jurassic Park series, King Kong(1976), and Windtalkers, which required background with little or no touch of civilization.

HOW AND WHEN TO GOThere are no roads for automobiles to take you there, except a narrow, difficult trail fit for the physically fittest. Unlike a helicopter tour, which gives you only glimpses, taking a boat gives you enough time to admire the natural wonder at a closer range. However, the time you can visit via water is limited to mostly the warmer months when weather is more clement. When my wife and I first visited Kauai in November of 1997, no boat went out to Na Pali due to wind and rough waves. In our second visit in August 2002, we had almost a perfect weather, perhaps too perfect for our sailboat because our captain had to power it all along the coast instead of using its sail.

ONLY ONE BOAT FROM THE NORTHMost boats disembarked from Port Allen or Poipu in the south except Captain Sundown, which sailed out of Hanalei Bay in the north. (Please see my journal on "Captain Sundown" to see why it is the only one and what advantages you have by sailing from the north). We sailed west for less than a half-hour when we turned southwest around the bend marked by Bali Hai. The coast I read so much about appeared before us like a brand new scene in a movie.

SCENIC BEAUTIES TO SEEWe could see the cliffs with many peaks towering over us. A small beach below was crowded with people, but there would be fewer and fewer people as we sailed down the coast. At one point my sister-in-law dropped her jaw as she looked toward a small beach. I looked and noticed some people sunbathing au naturale. In various places small waterfalls appeared, cascading into the ocean as in a fantasyland. Then the caves, carved out by powerful waves that pound the shoreline in the winter months. Some kayakers ventured into the waters of the caves, perhaps to encounter a pirate ship full of treasures. As we went further south, clouds hung over peaks and sunlight shone through their edges as if gods were descending. The ocean breeze, often spraying mist of water on our faces, transported us to a higher state of exhilaration.

SEEING IS NOT ENOUGHThe perfect beauty of Na Pali shoreline called us like Sirens; yet, like Odysseus, we were bound to the boat, unable to swim ashore. We were only allowed to snorkel in a rocky beach where we were able to witness a sea turtle among other exotic, colorful ocean creatures. Overall, the short six-hour trip left me with more desire to return to Na Pali. Only, next time, I would return via trails to experience the fantasyland instead of just seeing it.

  • Member Rating 5 out of 5 by PDJ on November 5, 2002

Na Pali Coast
Northwest shore Na Pali, Hawaii 96714
+1 808 274 3444

View of Na Pali coast sea caves from Captain Sundown boat tour
If you plan to stay in Princeville area and go on a sea tour to Na Pali coast, you will find that most boats leave from Port Allen or Poipu in the south. Since passengers must check in around seven in the morning, you would have to be up before five and drive down an hour and a half to get to the port, which isn’t the greatest thing to do during a vacation.WHY JUST ONE COMPANY IN THE NORTH?There is only one company, which sails out of Hanalei Bay near Princeville—Captain Sundown. The company offers various types of sail including morning and afternoon sail (see www.captainsundown.com). We took a six-hour snorkel tour with lunch for about $130, the most expensive among its kind. However, besides getting more sleep and saving driving time, the tour was well worth the price. By the way, the reason why Captain Sundown is the only boat out of the north is that, years ago, flourishing boat tours from Hanalei Bay wreaked havoc on its environment. The government came in and outlawed boat tour businesses except for Captain Sundown, which put up a legal fight, or so goes the story according to Bob, the captain.ADVANTAGES OF SAILING OUT OF THE NORTHAlthough choice is limited, sailing out of the north has plenty of advantages, especially if you stay in the north. The 40-foot catamaran, designed by the captain himself so it’s suitable for Kauai waters, limits passengers to 15 people so it does not get too crowded. You check in after 8 a.m. so you don’t have to hurry too early. It sails less than a half-hour before you can begin to enjoy the sight of Na Pali coast, unlike those that sail out of the south, which must cruise for an hour or so before reaching the scenic coast. The boat is too large to enter caves but it gets you there near enough. It stops close to the southern end of the coast where you can snorkel for an hour (they provide the gears). Then you turn back and sail further away from the coast to have a wider perspective of the coast. The captain tops it off with one hour extra sail out to the ocean north of Na Pali coast where wind is strong and waves pound over the boat so you get soaking wet. It’s kind of like "perfect storm" except you come out alive exhilarated.ONE MINOR LACKCaptain Bob and his assistant were really folksy people who took a good care of the passengers, explaining and answering questions. They only left us wanting for better quality food (we had a choice of roast beef or turkey sandwich), although they had plenty of drinks. But then, during a sail, you probably don’t want to indulge a gourmet meal lest you get seasick. Anyway, after we came back to the calm waters of Hanalei Bay, we were convinced that we had taken the best sea tour in Kauai.
  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by PDJ on November 6, 2002

Na Pali Coast
Northwest shore Na Pali, Hawaii 96714
+1 808 274 3444

Tidepool left by ebbing water on the east shore beach
If you are looking for a nice beach to take a romantic walk with someone you love, just about any beach will do in Kauai. But if you are looking for an unforgettable experience, try taking a morning walk along the east shore of Kauai followed by a breakfast.WORDS DON'T DO JUSTICE...I stayed in Radisson Kauai near Lihue for a few days before checking into a resort in Princeville with my family. There I discovered a walk along the beach just at the sunrise to be a very refreshing experience. In a typical summer morning, before the weather gets steamy, you will enjoy a cool breeze gently massaging your body. As the sun rises, its rays of energy and hope disperses over the darksome billowing waters of the vast Pacific below. The surf splashes against rocks as if casting away any anxiety in its determined course to ebb and flow. Broken tree branches awash on the wet sand reminds you that the nature is in control there. You see no trace of tire tread or empty bottles, only footprints of few others who have chosen solitary escapes to meditate, pray, or simply watch.THE HEALING EFFECTWords fail to describe the grandeur of the physical phenomenon, but much more, the spiritual aura that mysteriously affects your soul. Speechless, you communicate all that need to be said with a firm squeeze of hands and a look into the eyes of your loved one. Somehow, the wild but gentle, dynamic but calm east shore of Kauai in a morning seems to have a spiritually healing effect, causing you to feel closer to God and the one you love.A GREAT PLACE FOR BREAKFASTBack at the resort you can visit Naupaka Terrace Steak House where they serve buffet breakfast for a very reasonable price, around $10 (in 2002 price). They have toast, cereals, pastries, muffins, eggs, bacons, yogurts, fresh fruits, etc. It is situated around a pool and outside seating is available for those who come early enough. (Read more about Radisson Kauai Resort in another journal.)
  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by PDJ on November 6, 2002

A Romantic Walk
4331 Kauai Beach Drive Kauai, Hawaii

Ke
To visit Kauai and not see its underwater world is like traveling to east Africa without a safari. In any place, the sense of wilderness comes from wild animals that inhabit the land. In Kauai, chickens are about as wild as it gets on the land; you have to visit its underwater to get the sense of wilderness, and snorkeling is the best way to do it.THE BEST PLACE TO RENT GEARSSince I don’t own snorkeling gears, I shopped around for rental and visited a few.


I chose Snorkel Bob’s (located in Kapaa and Koloa) because they had by far the largest inventory with the greatest selections and friendliest service. My whole family needed corrective lenses for masks, and they had no problem fulfilling our needs. We found that for such niceties, we had to pay a little "mo." (You can visit their website at snorkelbob.com to find out the origin of the word "mo.")WHERE TO PRACTICEFor new beginners, the best place to start is in their resort’s swimming pool. You can put your gears on and practice until you get used to them. Another good place to practice is Lydgate State Park in Kapaa, which has saltwater pools created by a man-made breakwater. The pools stay calm even when the ocean is tempestuous.WHERE TO VENTURE OUT


When you have built up some confidence, you can venture out in few beaches surrounded by natural reefs. In the south, we found Poipu Beach Park is the best place for novices like us. It has two coves separated by a lava bed which acts somewhat like a breakwater, keeping waves calmer. The moment we put our faces under the water, we saw schools of fish swimming around us. We felt as if we were in an aquarium. This place is more ideal in the winter when waves are gentler.

In the north, I recommend Ke’e beach above many other fine beaches there. It is located where Highway 560 ends. It is a small cove with water as calm as a swimming pool. We had to swim out a little to get to reefs and that’s where we saw many colorful fishes.


Besides these, we found Tunnels Beach just east of Ke’e Beach to be suitable, although it had less creatures to see. However, we found a seal lying on the sand basking in the sun there—a rare treat even for the locals. Note, however, that the northern beaches can be prohibitively dangerous in the winter months.THE BEST TIME OF DAY TO SNORKEL


The beach water is the calmest in the early morning when wind direction shifts and is undisturbed by people. But for better visibility, direct sunlight is essential. Therefore I prefer morning, around nine, for best snorkeling experiences. It is also much easier to find parking earlier.


For a detailed reference help, get a copy of "Snorkel Kaua’i" by Judy and Mel Malinowski. I found it most helpful in my venture to explore the hidden, beautiful

  • Member Rating 5 out of 5 by PDJ on November 15, 2002

Snorkling
Kauai Harbor Kauai, Hawaii

About the Writer

PDJ
PDJ
Fountain Valley, California

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