Once Upon a Time in Durbuy, Belgium

DURBUY, BELGIUM has witnessed a prestigious past and is at the forefront of the future for the Region. It maintains its rich history and beautiful buildings while offering visitors amenities such as four star accommodations, 18-hole golf, walking trails along the River Ourthe, and its famous gastronomy (the art of good eating).

In Durbuy we stayed at the Hostellerie le Sanglier des Ardennes, a magnificent hotel owned by the Caerdinael family and dined at its elegant restaurant. We enjoyed the excitement of a regional festival and marveled at the gigantic masterpiece in the town center made entirely of fresh chrysanthemums - a tribute to the tourism industry.

We visited the Parc des Topiaires, the largest collection of topiaries in the world and toured the Grotto de Han, unbelievable caves in the neighboring town of Han-Sur-Lesse.

On our last night in the area, we stayed at the Chateau d’Hassonville, a 13th century castle where we were treated like royalty. To complete our visit of this magical area, we toured another castle, Chateau des Comtes de Marchin (Modave Castle).

Quick Tips:

Activities NOT to be missed:

• Parc de Topiaries: Over 250 plants have been pruned in every imaginable shape including people, animals, and geometric designs, and some are more than 120 years old. The Topiary Park is directly behind the Sanglier on the other side of the River Ourthe. Cost: 4.50 Euro. Open 10:00 to 6:00 March 16th through November 14th.
• Splurge on a Gastronomic Adventure in one of the many restaurants available in Durbuy or neighboring towns. Don’t worry if you are not sure what to order. Most restaurants offer two or three "Menus" that have put together wonderful combinations of courses, including wines, to delight any palate. Just point and say "this one, s’il vous plait".
• Visit the Grotto de Han (Caves of Han-sur-Lesse) and the surrounding Nature Reserve. While there, stroll through the pedestrian area and enjoy lunch or refreshments at many of the local sidewalk cafes.
• Visit Modave Castle. Enjoy a wonderfully preserved example of extravagant life in the 17th and 18th century; and learn about the most important watershed in Belgium.
• Prepare yourself for a relaxing visit to this land of enchantment that will stretch your imagination and rejuvenate your soul.

Best Way To Get Around:

You can reach Durbuy easily by car from Brussels (62 miles), Namur (33 miles), or Liege (31 Miles). Once there, almost everything including the hotels, restaurants, the Topiary Park, the River and its walkways, and, of course, irresistible shopping are all within an easy walk of the town center.

Stroll the cobble stone street and meander through the town square and the adjacent shopping and restaurant area. The shops are small but contain many unique items. Walk along the pathways from the center of town along the River Ourthe and enjoy the fresh clean air in the forest of the Ardennes.

There are many neighboring towns and villages to explore including Han-Sur-Lesse, Marche-en-Famenne, Dinant and Namur.

For maps or information on accommodations, dining or activities, log on to Visit Belgium.

More than 39 years ago, Maurice Caerdinael and his new bride, Nichole, started working on the family owned hotel inherited from Maurice’s mother. The Hostellerie le Sanglier des Ardennes became one of the most beautiful hotels in the region.

This statement appears in their brochure:

"If, formerly people came to the Sanglier for the pleasure of being in Durbuy, now, they come to Durbuy to have the pleasure of staying and/or dining at the Sanglier".

We arrived in Durbuy about mid-afternoon after a beautiful and relaxing drive from the Namur/Dinant area. The two-lane road that leads into Durbuy was curiously busy, the walking paths along the River Ourthe were also crowded, people walking, pushing baby strollers and they didn’t seem to be going to any specific place. As we entered the town, we found ourselves in the middle of a traffic jam. This Smallest Town in the World had swollen and overflowed its banks - there was a festival going on. After circling the Town Square several times, we finally found the parking area reserved for the Sanglier guests.

The front entrance to the hotel was a little hard to find, but we squeezed between the tables and chairs on the sidewalk café filled with festival-goers enjoying the day, and discovered the Registration Desk. Once inside, the elegance of the Sanglier was immediately apparent. The grand sitting room filled with overstuffed chairs, a fireplace, and cozy seating areas was overshadowed only by the friendly and gracious staff.

Checking into our room was quick and easy. We were on the second floor in a large room with a king-sized bed, dresser, comfy chairs, small table, and a modern bathroom. We had a panoramic view from our window of the town square and the massive floral masterpiece created for the festival. There was a small lift (elevator) just off the lobby.

I was impressed how quiet the rooms were, even with all the music and traffic noise on the street below during the peak of the festival. Of course, once the festival ended, the streets emptied of people and cars, and by nightfall, it was blissfully quiet.

Ever since I was a little girl, I dreamed of living in a castle - a real, honest-to-goodness castle. Thanks to this trip, I can mark #15 off my Life List.

Approaching the Chateau d’Hassonville through its security gates and down a long winding tree-covered drive, I was in awe upon seeing the castle. It looked like something out of a fairy tale. As we drove into the inner courtyard, a young man dressed in formal attire greeted us. He took our luggage directly to our room and then moved our car to a hidden parking area, maintaining the pristine ambiance of the surrounding area.

The castle is owned by the Rodrigues Family and has also gained a reputation in gastronomy and as a meeting and seminar center.

Instead of numbers, each suite has a name. Ours was the A. Morzivaux Suite, named for a former owner of the Estate. It was just as majestic as the outside of the Castle and the grounds. There were two full-sized beds, a beautifully designed antique armoire to store our things, and a table with chairs. There was no television (yea!). On one of the lamp tables by the beds was a decanter of wine with two glasses. We had the most awesome view of the castle grounds from our windows. Soft, relaxing classical music appeared to be rising from the gardens below. Later, we discovered a small speaker in the corner of our room.

Downstairs, there were numerous elegantly furnished sitting rooms, dining areas, and the Winter Garden where breakfast is served.

The first thing we did was to take a long walk on the many trails of the Castle grounds. The trails are clearly marked by various colored arrows, depending on how long you care to walk. We started on orange, switched over to green, then just followed our instincts, stopping to enjoy the beautiful fountain in the middle of the large pond. All along the trails were benches at strategic locations to get the best view of the surrounding area. As we approached the end of our walking adventure, we passed by the putting green. We understand there is also fishing available. Guests can also arrange other activities such as tennis, a full 18-hole golf game or horseback riding.

After our walk, a long bubble bath was next. Wrapping up in the plush, terry robes hanging just inside the bathroom door added to the elegance of our evening. Do we really have to go down to dinner?

Following dinner we went for another walk, perhaps more of a stroll; it was such a beautiful night, even the perfectly groomed lawn and gardens glowed in the moonlight. The rhythm of the water fountain could be heard in the distance as we settled into some large outdoor chairs, closed our eyes and thought we might stay forever.

And then it was morning . . .

Master Chef Maurice Caerdinael devoted years to developing refined cuisine leading to perfection of his art. His illustrious wine cellar boasts over thirty thousand bottles of wine, many receiving numerous awards. After a two-year training tour in prestigious restaurants in Paris, Nice, and London, his son Frederic, now a Master Chef himself, returned to the Sanglier to take his place along side his parents.

The Dining Room at the Hostellerie le Sanglier des Ardennes is located on the street level of the hotel and overlooks the River Ourthe. There is also an outdoor terrace for dining. (weather permitting). The Terrace has an excellent view of the Durbuy Castle, which is privately owned and not open to the public.

We were welcomed warmly and seated at a window table and had a perfect view of the River and the Topiary Park. It was early evening and the sun was still illuminating the beautiful surrounding area.

It was suggested that we order a "wild game" menu as that is really a specialty of the Sanglier (English translation- Wild Boar). However, we asked if we might substitute a different type of meat such as beef for the main course. Our waiter, who appeared to be the manager of the restaurant, said he would have the Chef prepare something very special for our tastes. Anticipation now became the name of the game!

We started with a small tray of appetizers, which included a small thin glass of cold white bean soup - unique and very tasty. Our main course was tender, succulent steak, surrounded by petite vegetables such as green beans and carrots. It was marvelous. Dessert was a beautifully presented array of pastry, raspberries, and sorbet.

Coffee was served in the sitting room along with a tray of bite-sized cream filled pastries and small dishes of mousse. Actually, we were the only guests in the sitting room and it was very peaceful. The Manager, who we had enjoyed talking with during dinner, joined us in the Sitting Room to finish our conversations. I think he really enjoyed practicing his English.

The next morning, after our wonderful buffet breakfast, we had the honor of meeting Chef Maurice Caerdinael who joined us in the Sitting Room. He was interested in where we had been and what our impressions were of his home, Durbuy.

As we walked down the wide wooden staircase from our 2nd floor suite, we were greeted by a Staff Member who invited us into one of the sitting rooms and offered a glass of Champaign. After a few minutes, we were presented with the menu for the evening and offered somewhat of an interpretation of it. Beside the la a cart items, there were four "Menu" selections, which included everything from soup to dessert, including wines for each course. Throwing caution to the wind and not knowing exacting what to expect, we chose the Menu Chatelaine.

We were escorted into a cozy and intimate dining area where there were five tables. The mood was romantic, soft lighting, candles on the table, and classical music in the background.

It was a culinary adventure to say the least, especially for the tacos-and-enchilada Texans that we are- a whole new world of eating laid there before us.

My gosh, which fork do I use- oh yes, the one on the outside.
Is that a butter knife or a fish knife? (They look the same to me)

I quickly realized that it really didn’t matter at all. The other eight guests in the restaurant were busy enjoying their meals, and only our Waiter would know for sure.

The Chatelaine Menu:

Saumon Fume mi-cuit et sa salade d’asperges a la vinaigrette de truffes

Pave de cabillaud roti et son jus de pintadeau abricote

Supreme de pintadeau au Chablis et au citron confit

Baba a l’anis et ses fruits rouges, sa glace abracadabra

Following dinner, we were served coffee and a tray of tiny chocolate delicacies to compliment the coffee. Our wonderful dining experience lasted almost two hours and when we were finished, we understood the phase "Belgian Gastronomy". (The Art of Good Eating)

Breakfast at the Castle was served in the Winter Garden, a beautifully enclosed glass area with one side being the original stone wall. It is full of flowering plants and the sunshine flows through the space creating a perfect environment.

Breakfast was buffet-style with several different breads, cheeses, sliced ham, yogurt, and fruit. There were juices, tea and coffee. One thing I noticed and greatly appreciated-large coffee cups, really large.

Belgium is peppered with dozens of Castles built by various leaders and royalty that made this corner of the world their home with grand rooms, all elegantly furnished to fit the demeanor of their owners. Undoubtedly, these castles serve as a tribute to the grandeur of Humanity.

Another kind of castle exists in Belgium. This castle is much older, much more grand, and at least as elegantly furnished to befit its Builder. In the heart of Lesse Valley buried deep in a mountain, the castle that I am referring to is the Grotto De Han (Caves of Han –Sur- Lesse).

This cave was formed when the erosive action of the Lesse River carved out a path for itself through the limestone rock dating back to the Palaeozoic Era, 360 million years ago. At one time Belgium was covered by a sea and as we toured the cave we could see shells and fossils on the walls of the caves - layer built upon layer. As with other caverns we found it a bit chilly with a constant 54 degrees (F) and high humidity – bring a light jacket or sweater.

Although the existence of the entrance of the cave had been well known for some time, it was not until 1771 that a genuine exploratory expedition took place and it turned out to be more than just a grotto. Father de Feller, the expedition leader, explored only a short distance from the opening (which is now the exit). By 1860, the cave was being more extensively explored, and public tours were offered by using lighted torches.

In the early 1900s, electricity was added to the cave, and a train was built between the town center and the entrance of the cave. This dramatically increased the number of visitors to 6,000 per year. Continued improvements to accommodate visitors, along with the discovery of several miles of new galleries and a huge cathedral type hall made this natural castle a treasured national attraction. By 1991, two hundred years after its discovery, the number of visitors increased to 350,000 per year.

Many say, "The Grottos de Han has still not given up all her secrets". As we walked through the cave the splendor and grandeur was endless. With one dramatic sight after another we cannot help but think that there is more to come. One room was so large that it is said that over 200 houses could fit inside. Another room contained a sitting area and an impressive colored light and music show that lasted about five minutes. Extremely moving.

We exited the cave by boat, floating on an underground river. As we approached the opening and daylight began to filter in, we were warned to protect our ears from the loud cannon shot about to be heard. It is an old tradition used to scare off the evil spirits that might be lurking inside the cave and is still practiced today.

Chateau des Comtes de Marchin (Modave Castle) sits on a gigantic rock ledge, high above and overlooking the Hoyoux River,a small tributary of the River Muse. It is in the middle of a 1,112 acre nature reserve and only a short distance from Durbuy.

In 1941, after a succession of owners,the estate became the property the Compagnie Intercommunale Bruxelloise des Eaux (C.I.B.E.) that is responsible for providing water to the region. The area is a protected wooded watershed and guarantees the water of Modave to be pure. Plans on the catchment area began in 1907 and the first water was supplied in June 1922. The water resource of Modave is the most important groundwater catchment in Belgium.

During the Middle Ages, this Castle was the seat of a feudal court. It was the property of the Modave family from 1233 to 1558. In 1642 it was purchased by Jean de Marchin, a great military commander, counselor, and confidant of Philippe IV, King of Spain and Charles II, King of England, who invested him as a Knight in the Order of the Garter in 1658.

Today only the tower remains of this 13th century castle that was once protected by moats, walls, and turrets. Most of the present interior is attributed to Count de Marchin who restored the Castle between 1652 and 1673.

The public can view 20 richly decorated rooms; all items and furniture were actually found in the castle. Many items have been moved from their original location so that the public can enjoy them. Included in the wall decorations are 17th century tapestries and paintings.

The first room we entered was the Guards Room. On the ceiling are 32 colorful stucco crests depicting the family tree of Jean de Marchin. The purpose of this elaborate ceiling was to demonstrate his wealth and importance and to impress visitors entering the Chateau.

Continuing into the Hercules Drawing Room, we saw the long banquet table set with china and 19th Val-St-Lamert crystal, specially designed for the family in 1870. Originally 1,130 pieces were made. Even the silverware was custom made to compliment the dishes and crystal.

As we continued our tour through each of the rooms we were intrigued with the detail and history of the furnishings. There were more elaborately designed stucco ceilings, black marble fireplaces, an imposing 17th century oak spiral staircase spanning 4 levels, and a private neoclassic chapel.

The Cafeteria in the basement is the original kitchen of the Chateau and is open to the public. The ladies there make excellent Belgian Waffles.

Most visitors take a self-guided tour, using a numbered system to identify each important item. Guided tours are possible in English, French, Dutch, and German at a cost of 37 Euro for a group and prior arrangements are required.