Journey Into the Past

For me, the most memorable moment was finding the grave of my great-great-great grandmother, at the end of a journey of many thousands of miles. My favorite places were the beautiful churches of Lincolnshire and Yorkshire: the York Minster, the Beverly Minster, and above all, the spectacular ruins of Fountains Abbey near Ripon, Yorkshire. Fountains Abbey is a magical place; definitely a "don't miss". Plan to spend most of a day there walking through the ruins, the water garden and the deer park.

Quick Tips:

One of the things I most enjoyed was the country pubs. Many of these also offer rooms for overnight guests. While they might not be as posh as a Hilton, they have much charm and character, at a fraction of the cost. The food is excellent, and the prices won't break your budget. On a chilly, rainy afternoon, embrace the English custom of tea time.

Best Way To Get Around:

Mike and I drove, but once we got settled into a town, we found restaurants and pubs within easy walking distance to our hotel. Even in York, our hotel was just a short walk from the York Minster and other major sites.

This family-run establishment gets its name from a nearby wooden drawbridge, dating from 1736. During its existence, the bridge has always been painted blue. The Blue Bridge Hotel is conveniently locating for exploring York’s city center, and offers guests tastefully furnished, comfortable rooms, with en-suite baths. Room features include TV, telephones, refreshment trays, spacious wardrobes, and a full English breakfast served in the hotel restaurant.

Both of our double rooms were reasonably spacious, and I found the bathroom to be quite large as compared with those usual found in smaller European hotels. I appreciated the nice thick bath towels; again, not what I’ve generally encountered in my travels. My room overlooked a rather busy street, but I didn’t notice a great amount of noise, though there is construction work being done across the street. Since I had no plans to sleep too late, this wasn’t a problem.

In addition to Craig’s, the hotel’s popular restaurant, guests can take advantage of the cellar bar, and also a private residents-only bar on the ground floor. The private bar is a quiet spot furnished with comfy sofas and chairs. The night we stayed at the hotel, we noticed a foursome playing cards here. We opted for the more casual ambiance of the cellar bar for our after dinner drinking. Brick walls, small tables, and soft lights give this space a unique character, and the selection of beers (bottle and tap), wines, and other spirits is sure to have something to please everyone.

We had been sent to the Blue Bridge by another York hotel, and I’m glad we were. From the friendly greeting at reception until our checkout, we thoroughly enjoyed the stay. Since we’d driven, finding a parking space was also a consideration, but the hotel provides on-site parking free of charge.

Email them at info@bluebridgehotel.co.uk

Located above a pub in Louth’s city center, these budget accommodations provide travelers with the basics of a wardrobe, sink (stamped Royal Doulton!), TV, vanity table, and comfortable chair. Though only a single room, the space itself was reasonably large. The bed was soft as a cloud, and welcome after a long day of driving and roaming through churchyards. Through my window, I had a pretty view of the local church spire towering over the city. The hall bath was compact but fairly clean, if a bit dimly lit. When we found this hotel, it was already getting dark, and walking down the hallway to our rooms we noticed there were no hall lights. We didn’t think too much about it as there was still enough light to navigate easily enough. Coming back that evening from the pub, however, was a bit more challenging: there were no lights in the hallway, and none of the switches we tried seemed to work. Of course we hadn’t thought to bring a flashlight, and as neither Mike nor I smoke, we had no matches. So, we sort of felt our way along the hallway very carefully.

A brief comedy routine ensued where, in total darkness, we figure out which of the keys we’d been given opened our respective rooms and which opened the bathroom. We knew it was the silver key for one and the gold key for the other, but as the hallway was pitch black it was impossible to tell which was which....or even find the keyhole! Finally we managed to get one of the rooms open and turn on a light, which provided enough illumination to open the door to the other room as well as navigate to the toilet. I told Mike I hoped I didn’t have to use the hall bathroom during the night, as I wasn’t sure I could find it, let alone ascertain which key to use to open the door! Mike gallantly volunteered to take me to the bathroom if I needed to go during the night!! Luckily, I did not. The hotel serves a tasty English breakfast every morning at 8:30. The Kings Head Hotel is certainly not a luxury spot, but the price and location are hard to beat. Just be sure to take a flashlight!

"There are no strangers here, only friends who have not met." So reads the inscription above the entryway to this lovely pub in Milton Keynes. Artful groupings of old photographs are displayed on the terracotta walls; the lighting is subdued. On a wall near our booth, a map showing the wine regions of the world provided decoration. Two fireplaces add warm and ambiance on cold winter evenings. Furniture is of dark wood.

For an entree, I selected the Three Shires Sausages with Cheddar Mash. The sausages were from Suffolk, Lincolnshire, and Cumberland, topped with leeks and set atop a bed of cheddar mashed potatoes, with a delicious caramelized onion gravy. I’d tried the Lincolnshire sausage before; the flavor of these sausages is enhanced subtly with sage. Mike opted for the Chicken Arrabbiata, a dish of spiced, grilled butterfly chicken breast sliced over a bed of pasta. This is enhanced by a tomato, black olive, and mild cheddar sauce, and served with Parmesan and garlic bread. Mike was drinking pints of Bass ale, while I had half pints of Carlsberg Export, and also tried a Tetley’s Bitter.

I managed to get Mike to join me in sharing dessert, Caramel Apple Granny with hot Devon Custard. This is a traditional English pudding, and it was sheer bliss. I could have eaten bowls of the creamy custard just by itself. This was the only time I’d splurged on dessert, and it was worth every calorie.

The Olde Swan was one of my favorite pub experiences this trip to England. The building itself dates to the early 17th century, and with its dark rough-hewn beams, yellow plaster walls, and rooms meandering here and there, it seems the quintessential British pub. Small charming wall sconces and candles on each table give a soft warm glow. Floral patterns of predominantly red, green, and yellow tones are carried through in the carpeting and curtains. Tables and chairs are of dark wood. Black and white photographs and antique farm implements add homey touches, rather like being in a country cottage.

Menu offerings include sandwiches (smoked salmon and chive cream cheese, ham, roast beef), baked potatoes with various fillings, Ploughman’s Choice (a combination plate of cheese, bread, pickles, and tomatoes), salads, and hot sandwiches. Mike and I ordered off the chalkboards where diners can select from a tempting listing of Chef’s Specials and seasonal dishes.

My selection for the evening was Red Thai Chicken Curry, which is served with rice and nan. The chicken pieces were meltingly tender, and were enhanced by a pleasingly spicy curry sauce. The nan was fresh and warm. Mike’s choice was a generous portion of swordfish, delicately breaded and topped with a subtle chili sauce with a hint of sweetness. Rice and mixed vegetables were accompaniments. A few pints of John Smith’s Smooth Ale – a smooth ale with a touch of sweetness - went down easily. Menu offerings are written on chalkboards mounted on the wall. Once you’ve made a selection, make note of your table number, then go to the bar to order your food.

We arrived late on a Saturday evening, and it was quite crowded. When we ordered, we were advised it would be a half hour wait for our food. We didn’t mind, as we chatted and sipped our pints.

Photograph courtesy of Mike Crouch

We stopped here for dinner on a Thursday evening, as it was just down the street from the hotel where we were staying. This small dining space is located behind the bar/pub section of the Seahorse Hotel in York. The evening we were there, it was practically deserted, which made me wonder if that was a reflection of the quality of the cuisine. The brass lamps glowing on the yellow walls give this space brightness and warmth, while the dark wood tables and chairs and stone floor add a rustic touch. In cold weather (not far off judging from the nip in the evening air) I could just imagine sitting at a cozy table beside the fireplace, sipping a local ale. Traditional English favorites such as mixed grills and chops highlight the menu, which also offers a good selection of starters and sandwiches.

For an entree, I chose the Chicken Tikka Masala, served with a choice of boiled rice or chips, salad, and nan. Since I’d not yet had my fill of English-style chips, I choose those rather than the rice. The spiciness of the chicken dish was just enough to wake up my taste buds, and the chips were hot and crispy. Mike’s entree of Chicken with Stilton was a wonderfully delectable concoction of chicken and spices with a creamy cheese sauce, and accompanied by potatoes and vegetables. A few pints of Samuel Smith’s Old Brewery Bitter, and we were completely sated, with no room to even contemplate dessert. The service was prompt and efficient; definitely a good value for your money.

The Mason Arms Hotel, which once served as a posting inn, is situated in the heart of Louth’s city center. Dating back to 1725, the space houses a small hotel space and two restaurants. Formerly known as the Bricklayers Arms, the name was changed about 1880 as the Louth Masonic lodge would meet at the Arms. Remnants of its past are evident today, as Masonic symbols can still be found in the building. In 1908, a Masonic Hall was constructed, leaving the Masons Arms as it stands today, with no Masonic connections.

The Arms changed ownership and by the 1980’s had fallen into a state of disrepair. It was sold for redevelopment and was refurbished with its original character retained despite the introduction of modern conveniences. We had tried to get rooms here on the Wednesday night, but there were no vacancies. So, we settled for having dinner here instead.

For a starter, we shared the Grilled Garlic and Onion Tart, which is out of this world. The delicate flaky crust holds an aromatic garlic and onion filling so delectable your mouth will actually thank you! My entree selection was the Lincolnshire Sausage and Chips, as I wanted to try some of the local dishes. The Lincolnshire sausages are different from those I’ve had in London, as their flavor is enhanced with sage. Gravy is also served with this, although I enjoyed the taste of the dish without that added embellishment. Mike chose haddock for his entry, and got a large portion of fish. By the time we’d polished off our main courses, we couldn’t even think about trying dessert.

Friday, the day we visited Fountains Abbey, turned out to be rather chilly and rainy, and I hadn’t dressed appropriately for the weather. When we reached Harrogate, it was pouring rain and I was much in need of warmth and hot tea. Located on the second floor of the Harrogate Theatre, this charming little cafe was the perfect stop for afternoon refreshment after our morning of exploring. Dark wood benches and red cushioned chairs are clustered around what appear to be old sewing machine tables with gilt trim. The walls are decorated with framed photographs and opera programs. In the front of the room is a long bar where you can have a drink; food orders are taken at the bar. We sat in an area near the back of the room, in sort of a little alcove near the windows.

Menu offerings include scones with butter and jam at 60p, various toasted sandwiches for 2.50L, tea cakes, salads, ice cream, and, of course tea (1.40L for two people). I told Mike I wanted to have a proper English tea, so we ordered tea, a variety of sandwiches, scones, and tea cakes. Mike did the honors pouring tea, and although I’m not sure which type it was, it was warming and delicious. Curled up on a bench watching the rain pour down outside, I didn’t want to move and start the long drive back south.

The sandwiches we had are quite different than what I’d expected (I think I was anticipating something like the cucumber sandwiches of English novel fame!). Various fillings are put between two slices of bread, and then the whole concoction is placed in a device, which presses it flat and seals the edges. The result is a piping hot, crisply delicious sandwich. We tried the ham and tomato, as well as mushroom and cheese, and both were delicious. I tried a bit of Mike’s scone, and it was marvelous: the only one’s I’ve had in the past have had the consistency of hockey pucks. I had ordered an almond teacake, and was surprised to find no almonds in it; rather it had raisins and a light glaze. Almonds or no, it was delicious, though Mike said he thought he preferred the scone.

Lunch and tea are served from 12:00 PM until 3:30 PM.

Have you ever read about a place and then become so taken with the vivid mental image you’d constructed of it that you had to see it? That’s how we came to visit Fountains Abbey.

I’d read about it in a novel several years ago, and ever since then, I knew I had to one day see it for myself. Mike had never been there and didn’t know much about it, but he was more than willing to go.

So, after checking out of our hotel in York, off we headed to Fountains Abbey. On the short drive to the Ripon area, the sky was overcast and threatening rain. I was hoping it would hold off until we’d seen the Fountains, and that I’d have some blue skies for photography purposes. When we arrived at Fountains Abbey, I was dismayed to see quite a number of tour buses in the car park. While I didn’t think we’d have the Abbey to ourselves, I certainly hadn’t envisioned experiencing it with hordes of visitors either. I needn’t have worried though, as this World Heritage Site sprawls for over 800 acres, and offers, in addition to Fountains Abbey, a medieval deer park, ornamental lakes, a monastic water mill, and church. We had only limited time to spend, so we concentrated our sightseeing on the ruins of the Abbey, and the water mill.

Fountains Abbey was founded in 1132 by thirteen Cistercians monks seeking a simpler life. The Abbey was in use for 400 years, until the monasteries were closed by Henry VIII in 1540. The first buildings of Fountains Abbey date from 1132-1190. Blocks of stone were carted from local quarries; the corbels in the Abbey were of gray Nidderdale marble. The roofs were mainly covered in lead produced at lead mines near Pateley Bridge, which was owned by the Abbey. As the Cistercians only sanctioned simple decoration, decorative floor tiles were not widely is use. Walls, which were called Precinct Walls, marked the boundaries of the Abbey grounds when it was a monastery. Some sections of these walls are over 800 years old.

The water mill has continued working for 850 years, and survived because it has been in continuous use. It is now the finest example in Britain of a monastic watermill. Be sure to take time to see the 15 - 20 minute animated film for a light-hearted look at what life at Fountains Abbey was like for a new "recruit". Also, try your hand at grinding some wheat...and then think what it would be like to do this every day of the week.

Fountains Abbey offers visitors a restaurant with hot meals served in the afternoon, handicapped access, baby changing facilities, children’s activities, and a gift shop. I’d recommend packing a lunch and planning on spending the day at Fountains. It’s one of the most magical peaceful and relaxing places you may ever visit.

Adult admission is about $7 (US).

St. Mary’s Cathedral of the Marshes is a beautiful church done in a style of architecture referred to as "perpendicular architecture". This style is in part characterized by strong vertical lines and marvelous hammerbeam roofs. This roofing style utilizes horizontal and vertical beams to disperse the roof’s mass. Additionally, the windows were generally large to give a more light, open feeling to the church interior. It is worth noting that this church is particularly unusual in that the entire structure was all built at the same time and was completed prior to 1420, which is when the bells were hung. Popular belief has it that the stone used for the structure was brought by waterways to nearby Grainthorpe Haven.

The church has changed considerably over the centuries. The interior did not have pews originally: the congregation either stood or knelt on straw. The pews were commissioned by Rev. Ascough Flayer, a benefactor of the church. A local man, Thomas Swaby, did the carvings of the 134 pew heads, each of which is a different design. Also worth noting is the spectacular baptismal font. This is medieval, although the ornately carved cover is Victorian. It is lifted for the baptismal ceremony via a chain that hooks to the ceiling. While in former days the font’s size was such that the infant was submerged in the water, now the water is used for making the sign of the cross.

Outside the church are found gargoyle waterspouts with intriguing faces as well as some rather frightening mythical animals (one in particular looked as though it were poised to try to take a bite out of someone getting too close!). The Medieval Latin inscriptions over the North Door arch translates as, "This is none other than the home of God and the gate of Heaven." It is said that God has been worshipped here by so many for so long that it is possible to actually feel his presence.

A recent travel article I read listed "wherever your ancestors are from" as one of the top fifteen travel destinations. Earlier this month, I got to see those places; the culmination of what has turned out to be one of the most unforgettable journeys I’ve yet taken.

I don’t know how long ago I’d decided to try to track down my British roots (my mother’s side of the family), but over the past several years it was an idea that began to have a stronger and stronger pull. This year, I decided, would be the year I made that trip. My goals were to see and photograph the villages where my ancestors had lived, to see if I could find headstones, and also to see if I could find any living relatives in those towns.

I was luckier than some people who try to trace their past, as two of my cousins had done a fairly complete family tree with names, dates of birth, and death (in some cases dates of marriage), and often in the entries a church name was listed. Luck was also with me when I met Mike, who lives outside London. After meeting earlier this year at the airport in Dublin, Ireland, we kept in touch via email and phone. Our shared passions of travel, writing, and photography made for lively discussions and I think we both felt we’d met kindred spirits. I told Mike about wanting to visit the areas of England my family had come from, and he invited me to stay with him and offered to be a guide if I decided to make the trip. Deciding that perhaps such an opportunity might not come again, I booked a flight to London and on August 30 began my journey.

Mike picked me up in London, where I’d stay for a couple of days seeing various Golden Jubilee events and spending time with friends. We started off on a lovely Wednesday morning for the Lincolnshire area of England. The places I wanted to see lay in the northern part of Lincolnshire, quite close to the coast. Despite a late start, we made fairly good time driving and it was early afternoon when Mike was telling me to look in the distance where we could see the famed Lincoln Cathedral. We continued on past Lincoln and came to Covenham, one of the first villages I wanted to see. We started what became a pattern for the rest of the trip: find one of the villages on my list, look for the church, and then start looking for headstones, as in days past, it was customary for churches to bury parishioners in the churchyard. I knew the names and dates I was looking for, and I think I had figured it would be so much easier than we found it to be. It was a somewhat rude awakening to find headstones so badly worn by the elements as to make the inscriptions indecipherable. The churches were shut, so going in to look for the pastor and perhaps get assistance was out of the question. After visiting four churches with no trace of my ancestors among the graves, I began to think perhaps I was not going to find anything.

It was late in the afternoon when we reached St. Mary’s Church in Marshchapel. The door to the church was open, and we went inside. I noticed a table with brochures and literature and went to pick out some things to read a bit more about the church. I saw a large book that appeared to contain all the inscriptions from the headstones at St. Mary’s. At the front of the book was an alphabetical listing by surname and I began to scan the list of names. Almost at once I found one I was looking for – Burgess – and then looked through the Burgesses to see if these were my ancestors. Sure enough, soon I found Elizabeth Burgess, and when I saw the date of death and compared it with my family tree, there was no doubt: I’d found my great-great-great grandmother! Next to her name, there was a number. On checking the back of the book, we found a matching number; this was a note indicating where the grave could be found..."north side of church, old section nearest the church, third row". I was in such a hurry to get outside and find the headstone that I left my camera and everything behind. Mike and I went to the north side of the church, found what we thought was the oldest looking section, and began looking for Elizabeth Burgess. After checking a number of headstones with no success, I was starting to feel very discouraged and wondered if perhaps the book was wrong or out of date; I was thinking I’d have to resign myself to not finding anyone...at least not in Lincolnshire.

I looked at the inscription on one of the last remaining headstones, and saw "John Burgess". Elizabeth’s father! And then I found Elizabeth’s headstone, something I’d come over 4,000 miles to find. Words can’t describe how I felt; I could almost sense her presence there with me. After a bit Mike and I returned to the church to collect my belongings that I’d left in such haste. As we took a last look around, Mike said, "Just think, you could be standing where she once stood." I tried to see it through Elizabeth’s eyes, and imagine her life more than 150 years ago.