A Year In Cairo

The first thing that comes to mind when someone mentions Cairo is the Pyramids of Giza. These are of course Cairo's major attraction, and duly so, as they are truly amazing monuments. Any trip to Cairo must include a visit to the Pyramids. However Cairo has much more to offer. There are the lesser known pyramids at Sakkara, Islamic Cairo, the Citadel, Coptic Cairo, as well as numerous other neighborhoods worth visiting, places where you can experience a truer Cairo than the one most tourists see. As this journal is being written by a student and a resident of Cairo, it will provide not only suggestions on the main attractions, but suggestions on how to experience the Cario of the Cairenes.

Quick Tips:

Almost all of the major hotels are located in downtown. This is a good place to stay as it is centrally located and allows easy access to most of Cairo. Try not to stay in Heliopolis or Giza, as you will be far away from many sights and will spend a good amount on taxis. The island of Gezira also has some good hotels, most notably the Marriott, a platial hotel, which actually has some surprisingly cheap rooms. Also, do not come in August, the heat is unbearable, best times to come are mid-fall and spring. Also be warned that if you come in December/January it does get a little chilly, especially at night. Days will be mid 60s, but because it is a desert, once the sun goes down it gets much cooler. Another quick word of advice, most people are aware of this, but you need to dress appropriately in Cario. Generally shorts or tank tops are not worn on men and women, and skirts should go at least mid-thigh. This will be discussed later.

Best Way To Get Around:

Taxis are the best, but also most frustrating, This will be discussed inside. Cairo has a very nice subway system that can be handy to tourists. It can get crowded during rush hours, but the front car is always women only, and much less crowded. The subway is cheap and great for getting to places like Coptic Cairo. Cairo also has a bus system, which is very cheap and goes anywhere. If you have a sense of adventure, and want to travel as budget as possible, buses are great, but beware. They get crowded, do not come to full stops, and it can be hard to find out where a bus is going. I have heard a few bad stories of foreigners on buses, especially women, but I personally have had some great experiences when travelling on buses, even with women. So I really only suggest the bus for the young, budget-minded traveler, and I suggest that women do not go alone.

The fabulous Citadel of Cairo, built by Salah Ad-Din (Saladin) in 1176 has seen its fair share of history. It was held by Crusaders, was the home of the Mamluke and Ottoman rulers, and was the site of Muhammad Ali's famous massacre of the Mamlukes. The fortress even housed British and Egyptian soldiers. It is now a fabulous museum that offers spectacular views of the city.

To get to the Citadel it is best to take a taxi. Just get in and say "Al-Qalaa." It should be no more than 6 LE from downtown. The main enterance is on Sharia' Salah Salem, and it will cost you 20 LE, or 10 LE for students, to get in. Beware, the Citadel closes at 5:00 and if you want to see everything, expect to spend 2.5-3 hours.

When you enter you will be in the Southern Enclosure and will pass a few, mostly pointless shops. Immediately follow the signs to the Muhammad Ali mosque. Love it or hate it, most hate it.

The Muhammad Ali mosque towers on top of the Citadel and is impressive in size. It was modeled after the Ottoman mosques, however the inside looks like a cheap attempt to build a "modern" mosque resembling the Dolmabahçe Palace in Istanbul. Nonetheless, it is quite the site, and worth seeing. Even more impressive are the views from the top of the Citadel. You can see all of Cairo, even the Pyramids, depending on how hazy it is.

Also worth seeing in the Southern Enclosure are the Mosque of An-Nasir Muhammad, and the Gawhara Palace. The An-Nasir mosque is a nice Mamluke mosque and the Gawhara is the palace of Muhammad Ali. There is also a nice Police Museum. There is also a nice Sufi dancing show in the Southern Enclosure on Sat, Mon, and Wed nights (see my journal on Sufi dancing).

After the Southern Enclosure, head up to the Northern Enclosure and the Military museum. The military museum offers a nice collection of artifacts from Egypt's Pharonic, Mamluke, and Ottoman pasts, as well as the present. If you do not know too much about Egyptian history you might be lost in some parts, but it is a nice museum worth seeing. Note though, that you have to pay to use cameras, so don't bother taking pictures.

Also in the Northern Enclosure is an interesting Carriage Museum, an Antiquities museum (although it's all in Arabic) and the very nice Mosque of Suleyman Pasha.

That about does it for the Citadel, but if it is still early and you aren't tired yet, I suggest walking back around to the bottom of the Citadel and checking out the Mosque and Madrassa of Hassan Pasha. A massive construction built in the 14th century. There is also the impressive Mosque of Ar-Rifai, which houses the remains of such notables as the Shah of Iran and King Farouk, and if you give a little "baksheesh" (tip) you can see the tombs.

Sufism is the ascetic and mystical movement in Islam that places emphasis on achieving oneness with God through things such as music, dance, and poetry. It is said to have originated around the 8-9 Centuries around Iraq, Anatolia, and Iran. Sects however appeared all over the Muslim world, and many were located in Cario. The Sufi tradition is not as strong in Cairo today, but you can still have the opportunity to see the famous music and dancing of the Sufis.

The two hour show is usually located at the Mausoleum of Al-Ghouri near Khan El-Khalili, but it is under restoration and so the Sufi show is now located at the Citadel. At the time of writing (October, 2002) shows were at 7:00 on Sat, Sun, and Wed, and are free. Although it would be best to check when you arrive, as the times and days often change.

The show features members of a local Sufi sect playing traditional instruments such as various drums, cymbals, and flutes. The show also showcases dancing by whirling dervishes. The whirling dervish is said to have originated in Turkey, but is a common practice among Sufis. The dervishes twirl in circles wearing brightly colored and patterned skirts, that when spun produce hypnotic patterns. The dervishes will spin for 45 minutes continuously, varying their pace to match the music, then stop and be completely fine. The dervishes are the highlight of the show, but the enchanting music and beautiful singing do not disappoint.

While there may be better Sufi shows around the Muslim world, this one provides a night of good entertainment, and it's hard to be disappointed when it's free. Also, if you stick around after the show, the Sufis will be more than happy to talk, and you might get invited to a moulid (celebration of the birth of a saint) like I did, and that is a sight to behold.

A visit to Cairo almost entails a taste of Shisha (see my journal entry on Shisha here), and Andrea is a great place to do it. Located on the norhtern tip of Zamalek on Abu Al-Feda, Andrea is a gorgeous place right on the water with excellent views of the city. Andrea is a restaurant as well as a shisha bar. The shisha bar is located all the way in the back next to the stack of around 100 shishas.

There is no menu of flavors but the waiters, most of whom know enough English to get your order, will tell you the flavors. The standard favorite is Apple, but some of my favorites include: Apricot, Rose, Cantelope, Cappuccino, and Mint. They also feature some more unique flavors, such as Lemon and Cola.

The waiters at Andrea are shisha experts, and it is their job to make sure you have the best experience possible. They keep very good tabs on your coals and will change them whenever they run low.

A shisha will cost you 5 pounds, about $1, and most of your standard juices, tea, or water will also cost 5 Pounds. Five pounds is about as cheap a shisha you will find without going into a local "ahwa" (coffee shop), but for first timers, I don't really recommend the ahwa. So whether you are a shisha afficionado or a first timer, you will love Andrea for its service and its great location.

Because it is on the water, Andrea is the perfect place to escape the crowdedness of Cairo, and enjoy the openess of the Nile's waters.

Sand Bar is a relatively new bar on the Cario scene, just opened a few months ago by Clayton, a native of Baltimore, who owns a bar of the same name in the resort town of El Gouna (see my journal on El Gouna).

For his Cairean version, Clayton took all the great aspects of his El Gouna bar and adapted them for the Cario lifestyle. The interior of the bar while small, is chic, with red walls and comfortable booths, and features the bar's favorite table soccer (which I have spent many hours challenging bar-goers at). Sand Bar gets a little crowded on weekends and is a great place to see people from the chic AUC crowd as well as numerous ex-pats. It is much calmer on weekdays, and always has good rock music playing. Sand Bar is a perfect spot to start your evening before heading off to other bars or dance clubs in Cairo. It is also a great place to relax on a weeknight with friends, grab a bite to eat (one of the few places in Cairo with Buffalo wings), take a date, or to meet new people.

Sand Bar definitely gets my recommendation for its great bar atmosphere, and if you go and see a man with long hair and tye-dye that's likely Clayton, the owner, so introduce yourself.

Feluccas are ancient sailboats that have been used on the Nile for centuries, and today provide great ways for tourists to escape the crowded streets of Cairo and take a relaxing tour on the open waters of the Nile.

How To Make The Most Of Your Felucca Experience

The first thing I suggest is go at night, around 8:00. The sun will have set and the whole city of Cairo will be lit up, and the city looks much more impressive at night. This will also put you on the boat around dinner time and you can enjoy a nice picnic on the boat. I suggest you stop by your local Ta'amiyya (like falafel) or Koshari (a noodle and rice dish made with grilled onions and tomato sauce). You can get a good meal of ta'amiyya and koshari for less than $1, making for a super budgeted, but tasty, picnic. Make sure to bring some for your captain too as they will greatly appreciate it.

A good price will be around 15 LE an hour, but you may find ones pushing 40 LE. You are a agnabi (foreigner) and you will be given a higher price from the start, most likely. Just be firm on your price, 15 LE. Tell him the price is very fair. You should be able to bring the captain down to your level. If the lowest he goes is 20 LE, just take it. It really isn't worth arguing over $1 and it is likely he could use that $1 more than you, but still I would never pay more than 20 LE. Also note that the number of people should not matter at all and is not a reason to get charged more.

Another way to enjoy a felucca is by bringing along your own music. Most of the captains have tape players, CDs very rarely, and so if you bring along some tapes they will gladly play them, or if you have your own CD player with speakers, bring that. Although, if you want to cruise on the Nile and listen to some authentic Arab music, the captain should have plenty and will be more than happy to play it.

In terms of time, an hour and a half is enough. If you are in a rush, you will still have a pleasant trip in an hour, and if you really want to relax, try two hours. Again, the longer you go, the more flexible the captain will be on the price, but an hour and half should suffice.

So whether you want a nice romantic evening with a loved one, or a relaxing night with friends, a felucca ride cannot be beat. The views from the Nile are spectacular, and if you go at night, bring something that will keep you warm - it gets chilly on the water at night, and there usually is a good breeze. Happy sailing!

The Pyramids can be a terribly hectic and frustrating place. You can't walk ten feet without someone trying to get some money out of you. I have found that a nice horse ride around the Pyramids is a good way to escape all these hassles as well as have some fun and get great views of the Pyramids and Cairo.

There are two entrances to the Pyramids and to get to the stables do not go to the main entrance off Pyramids Road, but to the second entrance where you buy the Sound and Light Show tickets. You will know you are at the right entrance if you see a two story KFC right across the street. To get to the Stables do not go in this entrance, but turn left and continue down this road. You will soon see a number of Stables and no doubt have plenty of men asking you if you want a camel or horse ride. Just keep walking.

I find going towards the end of the day is better. The Pyramids are wonderful at sunset. I always go to Omar Stables, a good ten minute walk down the road. You will see the sign on your left. Omar has some of the best horses around. Many stables take very poor care of their animals, and riding around the Pyramids on a lame horse is not fun, trust me. Omar has a large selection of horses and camels for you depending on your ability. He has horses for people who have never ridden and beautiful stallions for experts. Just walk up to the stable and tell Omar what you want. For the standard hour and a half run around the Pyramids it should cost you twenty pounds. If you like though, Omar can run longer trips, such as day long ones to Sakkara. For these though, you must talk to Omar in advance. I also arranged a Bedouin feast and horse dancing show at Omar's stables for a fair price, which was wonderful. They barbequed chicken, had shisha, and a live band. If you want any of this though, you must set it up ahead of time.

A little note about the Pyramids. Do not expect too much. The Pyramids, while still amazing structures themselves, have lost some of their charm due to the influence of modern Cairo. The area around the Pyramids is dirty, and poor, with some of the land around it used as a landfill. It is hard to appreciate the wonder of the Pyramids when you are incessantly being swamped by people trying to sell you things. That is why horse riding around the Pyramids is great. It allows you to escape it to the small bit of desert around the Pyramids, take a breather from the hectic pace of Cairo, and just admire these amazing structures from a distance. Galloping through the desert at full speed on an Arabian stallion is just too wonderful to pass up.

The Copts are an ancient sect of Christianity that have lived in Egypt since before the coming of Islam. They share many similar practices with other Eastern churches, but differ in their belief of Monophytism (Jesus was divine) and they have their own Pope who resides in Egypt. Copts make up more than 5% of the Egyptian population and have their own language, which is descended from the language of the Pharaohs. Coptic Cairo is an amazing place to visit for its history and because it seems to move at a different pace than the rest of Cairo. It is quiet and life moves a little bit slower. It is still a very conservative part of town, so wear appropriate clothes, no shorts or tank tops. If you aren't dressed appropriately, you won’t be let into the churches.

Everything in Coptic Cairo closes by 4pm, so get there early. You can get to Coptic Cairo two ways. One, take a Taxi, about 10 LE from downtown, or take the Metro for 0.75 LE. I prefer the latter option. It is cheap, quick, and drops you off right in front of the entrance. If you take the Metro, buy a ticket in the direction of Helwan, and get of at Mar Girgis. The Metro is very clean and there is a special car just for women at the front, and I suggest you use it. The other cars are crowded and you won't get a seat.

Coptic Cairo is walled off from the rest of the city. Once you get there I suggest you first head to the right, around the walls and towards the Greek Catholic Cemetery. There are some beautiful mausoleums here. After the cemetery head back and go in the first entrance on your right. Here is the famous Hanging Church which was built in the 3rd Century AD and was suspended above ground so the Copts could have a place to hid from the Romans. After the Hanging Church head to the next entrance and the beautiful Church of St. George. This huge round church has amazing ornamentation inside. After St. George head back outside and to the underpass. Here you will be able to walk through some of the streets of Coptic Cairo and see some more sights. Inside there is the Convent of St. George as well as the Churches of St. Barbara and St. Sergius. St. Sergius is supposedly where Mary took Jesus when they fled to Egypt. Also in this complex is the oldest synagogue, Ben Ezra. This closes at 2:30, so get there quick. The inside has beautiful ivory inlaid woodwork. Also inside Coptic Cairo is another Greek Orthodox Cemetery as well as the Coptic Museum and a very tacky Egyptian souvenir store. The Coptic museum is worth a quick stop. That about does it for Coptic Cairo. If you still have some time, I suggest heading to the Island of Rhoda and checking out some of the sights there, such as the Nileometer.

The Cairene taxi is at once a blessing to tourists, but can also be the cause of much frustration. Taxis in Cairo do not use meters, or any fixed system at all. All the taxis have meters, but will never use them. Every once in a while I have heard stories of taxi drivers turning on the meter when they have foreigners in the car, and then trying to charge them the price on the meter, which is much more than the usual. So if your driver tries to turn on the meter, or charge you the fare on the meter, immediately tell him no, and if he refuses, leave.

So, since there is no meter, how do the taxis work? Well, when you get in the cab it will be assumed that you know how much the price should be to where you are going. So, when you need a cab, stick your hand out, shout "taxi" and when one pulls up, tell him your destination. In general the taxi driver should not tell you a price, if he does, it usually means he is trying to rip you off because you are a foreigner. If the cabbie asks you "How much?" before you get in, tell him a fair price, and if he doesn't accept, leave, there are plenty of other taxis.

Once you get in the car, women do not sit in the front, the driver will take you to your destination and upon arrival, get out of the car, then hand the driver the fare through the window. Here is how you will know if you paid correctly. If the driver stays in the car and says the fare is too small and that he wants one or two pounds more, that means you paid correctly. Tell him that the price is fair and walk away, do not argue. If you start walking away and the driver gets out and chases after you, you probably paid too little. Give him a few more pounds, and then walk away. If you hand the money and the driver says nothing, you probably paid a bit too much.

You are a foreigner. Unless you speak flawless Egyptian Arabic, the cabbie will know, and in general you will pay more. A great way to lower the price is to talk to the driver. If you know any Arabic at all, even just "How are you?" use it! It helps. If you know none, and the driver knows some English, talk to him; it’ll drop the price. Also, if you pick up a taxi from any major hotel, that will add a few pounds to your fare no matter what. I realize all this can be frustrating for tourists, so here is a list of my suggested prices. 4.5 Egyptian Pounds=1 USD
Downtown to Zamalek – 3 LE
Downtown to Khan el-Khalili – 5LE
Downtown to the Citadel – 6LE
Downtown to Mohendiseen – 6LE
Downtown to the Pyramids – 12LE
Downtown to Giza – 8 LE
Airport to Downtown – 35LE
Downtown to Airport – 30LE

Those are very fair prices, and about what I pay. However, if you want to avoid any arguments at all, add a few pounds to those fares. Also, if you pack the car full of people or there is a lot of traffic, add a pound. That should do. Good luck!

When one talks of the Middle East, images of men sitting around around on luxurious pillows, smoking shisha, sipping coffee, and chatting (or maybe watching a belly dancer) often come to mind. While the luxurious "harems" that are often depicted in the West are few and far between (especially in Egypt) shisha, coffee, and the coffe house are very much a part of Middle Eastern and especially Egyptian culture. Shisha and coffee are some of the the common bonds between the rich and the poor in Egyptian culture. Everyone from the poorest street vendor to the wealthiest businessman loves to enjoy a good smoke of shisha, or a nice strong coffee, and you can find shisha being smoked anywhere from the smallest hole in the wall "ahwa" (coffee house) to the five star hotels. Everywhere and at all times of the day people are gathering around a table with coffee and shisha, discussing whatever happends to come out. By far one of my favorite things to do in Cario is to kick back with a few friends at night, smoke some shihsa, and just pass the time away with good conversation. Shisha and coffee are the definitive cultural experiences in Cario. You will learns more in one hour talking with some Egyptians in an "ahwa" than you will by reading every book written on the Egyptian people.

Shisha (despite some people's conceptions) is just tobacco soaked in some molasses, and then flavored with natural flavors and perfumes. It is then smoked through a waterpipe. The water filters out some of the harmful aspects of the smoke, but it still is smoke. Shisha is much more healthy than a cigarette because for one, there are no harmful chemicals (ie arsenic, tar, cyanide) and it is water filtered. While it is not entirely healthy, because you are breathing in smoke, you could be doing worse to your body. So, I am not trying to advocate rampant shisha smokeing, I just suggest it as a cultural experience to those who are curious.

There are two ways you can go about your shisha experience. You can either go to one of the classier bars found on places like Zamalek, Mohendiseen, and Giza, or for the more andventuous, head to a local "ahwa" downtown, or in Islamic Cario. Either way you will have a great time.

I suggest the first option for those who are a little less adventurous and who just want to try some shisha, to see what it is like. For this I suggest heading to Zamalek or Mohendiseen. In Zamalek there are a few great high class shisha bars. One is at the Marriott hotel. This is the most expensive (8 Pounds) but the Marriott is an absolutely beautiful place, and when they have live music, it is an unbeatable experience. Another good place is Versailles on Muhammad Thakeb, next to the AUC Dormitory. Versailles, frequented by AUC students, is a cozy place, fairly priced, and has a good selection of flavors. My favorite place, however, is Andrea, on the northern tip of Zamalek (see the separate journal entry).

The "ahwa" is a much more intense cultural experience. Ahwas are generally small places cut into the side of buildings. They can be fairly dirty, but that's all part of the charm. Good ahwas can be found in Islamic Cairo and Downtown. I frequent some of the ones near AUC off Midan Tahrir. All you have to do is walk around, and when you see one that looks good to you, have a seat. Most ahwas do not have a wide range of flavors, mainly Apple (tufah) and plain (zaghloul). Unless you really like tobacco, I recommend Apple. The shisha will also cost usually from 50 Piasters to 1.5 punds. To make the most of your Ahwa experience you must be open and friendly. People will most likely say "hi" and try to have a conversation with you; let them. Most ahwas are extremely hospitable places and the patrons will be more than happy to talk to you about Egypt. Just a quick note though, ahwas are generally not a place for women. Women hardly ever go, so I do not recommend that women go unless they are accompanied by a few men. So please, take my word whether you are a tobacco afficionado (I definitely am not, I never smoke) or just curious, shisha and the ahwa can be an unbeatable cultural experience.

One thing you will notice as soon as you get to Cairo is the absolutely insane number of American fast food chains that populate Cairo's steets. You will also notice quickly that there are not a lot of actual restaurants where you can get Egyptian food. When most Egyptians go out to a restaurant, they go out for Italian, seafood, or one of the numerous American chains (i.e. Chili's and Applebee's). This can be frustrating for foreigners in that it is hard to get a good real Egyptian meal, save for getting invited to an Egyptian's house for dinner, which, if it ever happens to you, you must accept. You will get so much food you won't have to eat for a week. Anyway, if you want to experience what the vast majority of Egyptians eat on a daily basis, mostly for lunch, you have to go to the equivalent of Egyptian fast food, the Ta'amiyya or Kushari stand.

Ta'amiyya is the Eqyptian version of Falafel, but made with fava beans. It is ground fava beans mixed with spices and then fried. It is then put into a pita with some salad and tahina sause. Sometimes potato chips are thrown in to. Usually two of these is enough to keep me going for the day. One ta'amiyya should cost 0.50-1 LE

Kushari is a dish that will give you all the carbohydrates you need for a day. It is pasta and rice mixed together with lentils and carmalized onions. A tomato sauce is then poured on top. A vinegar sauce and a hot sauce also usually accompany it. One small kushari will defintely fill you right up. Kushari is usually 1.50 LE for a small.

Shawerma comes from the same line as the gyro in Greece or döner in Turkey. It is meat (lahma) or chicken (farakh) put on a spit an cooked while rotating. The meat is then shaved off and mixed together with onions, tomatoes, and parsley, and then put on a bun with tahina sauce. A large shawerma is a good meal and will cost around 5 LE.

Foul is the cheapest of cheap foods. It comes in different forms, but it is essentially beans cooked, then mashed up into a paste and mixed with various oils and spices, then put into a pita. I don't find it as tasty as the other foods, but a few foul will fill you up. 0.25-0.50 LE

Where to go:

You will find stands for all these dishes all around Cairo. They are usually small holes in that wall and will have large stacks of ta'amiyya, kushari buckets, or a rotisserie out front. Some of my favorite places are Kushari Hilton on the north side of Tahrir Sqaure, next to the KFC and Kushari Al-Tahrir , on Abdel Khalek Sarawat, near Tahrir Square. These are two of the best Kushari spots in town.

For Ta'amiyya and foul there are plently of good places, but Alf Laila on Bahgat Ali in Zamalek and Felfela Takeaway on Talaat Harb, Downtown are quality places.

For shawerma I head to Z's on Tahrir Sqaure next to Hardee's and Baraka on Brazil St. in Zamalek.

Those are my suggestions, but almost anywhere you go will be good quality. I highly suggest that anyone who visits Cario stop in one of these places for a quick lunch one day. It truly is an experience.