Namur Discovered

The countryside near Namur, 40 miles from Brussels, is lush green rolling hills with verdant valleys surrounded by an incredible forest. This medieval town dates back to the Roman Empire and sits at the confluence of the Sambre & Meuse Rivers. Because of its strategic location, Namur seemed to always be embroiled in war. At different periods, it was ruled by the Spanish, Austrian, French and the Dutch.

We met our guide, Jean Claude, at the Tourist Office in the City Center. Our first stop was at the top of the Citadel, a 10th century fortress overlooking the Meuse and Sambre Rivers.

To get a complete understanding of the area we visited a relief model of Namur, constructed between 1747 and 1751, on display at the Archeology Museum. The model is the entire geographic area in miniature including the Citadel, waterways, houses, churches, belfry tower, gardens, and the surrounding forest.

Places not to be missed in the area:

• Les Jardins D’Annevoie, the Gardens of Charles-Alexis de Montpellier
• Tresor du Prieure d’Oignies, Mosan goldsmith art dating to the 13th Century
• The Musee Felicien Rops
• La Citadelle de Dinant

Quick Tips:

Start your visit of Namur at La Maison de Tourisme (Tourist Office) at Leopold Square, close to the railway station. There you will find all the information you need to get the most of your visit. Although Namur is a small town, there are so many things to see and so many different ways to see them. The very best overview of Namur is from the Citadel, but you cannot get the real "flavor" unless you stroll through the streets, sit at sidewalk cafes and browse the shops for that perfect souvenir.

While at the Namur Citadel, visit the Perfumes Workshop. Since December 1990, perfume creator Guy Delforge has invited the public to explore his world of perfume. A one-hour guided tour is offered and you can see the perfume laboratories, learn what raw materials are used and discover the beautiful building the factory occupies. The combination of the unique setting, classical music and the wonderful fragrances make this visit memorable.

Best Way To Get Around:

NAMUR: If you arrive by private car, you can easily drive the winding road up to the Namur Citadel where limited parking is available. For your tour of Namur, I suggest you find a place to park your car. The best way to explore the picturesque historic town center and wonderful 18th century architecture is on foot.

If you arrive by train, it is easy to reach the Citadel by a shuttle that operates from the City Center, and once there, a small local train links the various attractions.

DINANT: When visiting the Dinant Citadel, be sure to wear comfortable walking shoes; most pathways are cobblestone or brick and somewhat uneven. Trust me, you will get your exercise here.

For more information on things to see and do or information on hotels log on to Visit Belgium.

It was originally built as the secondary home of Belgium Army General Gracia (1865-1932). The current owners, Gisele and Michel Vandenberghen, spent 18 months remodeling the residence in the early 1990s and continue to provide personal service to their guests. In this three story Mosan Style building, there are a total of eight rooms for guests, a magnificent sitting room and a bright and sunny veranda where we had breakfast. Beautiful fresh flowers in a variety of unique arrangements could be seen everywhere.

I had the opportunity to visit with Madame Gisele Vanderberghen on the afternoon we arrived and heard stories of how they acquired the property, their remodeling adventure, and some of the romantic weekends she has planned for many newlywed couples. Our gracious Hostess made sure our every need was met.

Our room, # 4, is almost indescribable; our photographs cannot begin to capture the beauty and elegance we enjoyed. On the entire east wall of our suite were windows and doors that opened unto a large private terrace, overlooking an exquisitely manicured lawn. Beyond, were the banks of the River Meuse. The grandiose bathroom was quite modern and had the most magnificent bathtub, perfect for the bubble bath that was provided. Also in our room was a television with satellite service, direct-dial telephone and a mini-bar. The lavish furnishings and unique lighting took us back to the turn of the 19th century.

After settling in and before going to dinner at La Source Fleurie Restaurant just across the street, we took a leisurely stroll around the gardens and then along the paved walkway on the River Meuse. In the garden, flowers were still blooming and there were apples hanging heavy on a huge apple tree.

Breakfast was included in the cost of our room, and consisted of fresh rolls, pastries, eggs cooked to our request, sliced ham, homemade preserves, fresh squeezed orange juice, coffee and fresh fruit. We had our choice of having breakfast on the Veranda or in our room; it was a hard decision to make.

Luxury, peaceful relaxation and highly personalized service seemed to be the Owners objective. The Villa Gracia has found a marvelous way to take the charm of the past and has converted it into the comforts of the present with a generous share of friendliness.

We started with an aperitif, a small glass of fruity wine. As we sat is this beautiful room, listening to soft French music in the background, we were provided a menu (all in French, of course). While contemplating our choices, a tray was brought to each of us with a small cup of soup, smoked salmon, cucumber with cream cheese and herbs and one other item I had no idea what it was, but it was delicious.

After making our selections and completing our drinks and "starters", we were escorted into the dining room. The room was elegantly decorated and seemed to glow in the soft golden light against the blue accents for the tablecloths and drapes. There were two dining rooms, each with six or seven tables, making the evening a very intimate experience.

My entrée was chicken in strawberry sauce, roasted potatoes, tiny green beans, carrots and hot fresh strawberries served on an incredible square plate. Harry had beef, french-fried potatoes and vegetables. Fresh baked rolls and butter compliment this meal. Then came dessert- our choice- creme brulee that was so delicious, followed by coffee and another small tray of bite-size sweets.

The menu includes several a la carte items including fish, beef and chicken. Also available a "Menu" choice that includes an aperitif, salad, main dish, fruit and cheese, dessert and wines, all selected and served with your complete pleasure in mind.

We learned from our Hostess that she and her husband were the owners of La Source Fleurie and that he was the Chef and creator of the beautifully presented combinations.

Reservations are required. At the La Source Fleurie dining is an experience and there is nothing to distract guests from complete enjoyment and indulgence-no clanging of dishes and no one else waiting for your table. The food was delicious, the setting beautiful and romantic and the people so gracious, we hated to leave.

We entered, checked in at the reception desk and took a seat to wait for our guide. After a few minutes Sister Suzanne Vandecan came down a long hall and greeted us and said she was happy to be able to practice her English. She led us back down that long hall to a locked door. She briefly described what we would be seeing, then opened the door and the metal bars behind the doors.

In this tiny room, about 8 feet by 16 feet, were three free-standing glass cabinets that we could walk around. Inside the cabinets were the most beautiful relics dating back to the early 13th century. Most were the work of Brother Hugo, a Mosan goldsmith who devoted his life to God and to his craft, creating beautiful works of art.

His media was wood overlaid by gold and other metals. His detail work was so intricate that on a medallion about the size of a 50-cent coin we would see an entire scene such as a man holding a staff in a garden with beautiful scroll work all around it. Among his masterpieces were chalices, a manuscript cover, several crosses and relic holders. It is believed that these relics were made between 1228 and 1230, and that Brother Hugo died in 1240.

Sister Suzanne told us wonderful stories of how the Convent became the protector of these treasures and she gave us detailed descriptions of how the pieces were made, the type of materials that were used and the techniques that only Brother Hugo used at that time. This collection is said to be one of the most beautiful and important art treasures in all of Belgium.

You should allow one hour for this wonderful and unique tour. Also, be prepared to leave purses, backpack and coats just outside the treasure door. The Sister was so cute when she asked me to leave my backpack saying "don’t worry dear, it will be safe".

Photography without flash is allowed or there are wonderful postcards of the treasures available for purchase.

Although born in Namur, Rops lived most of his life in Paris. He wrote that he had to "escape the respectable world and live in a place of excitement and movement". In 1856 he founded the satirical weekly Uylenspiegel, and this marked the true beginning of his artistic career. Rops’ main works were engravings and illustrations, but in his leisure time he created many beautiful paintings of women and soft landscapes. His major works were very strange, to say the least. He was a lover of the fantastic and the supernatural. Symbolic themes such as the devil, skeletons and death dominated his work. Many demonstrated his belief that women dominated men and the devil dominated women. He was an outspoken champion of artistic freedom. Unfortunately, no photography is allowed inside the museum.

Possibly one of Rops best known pieces is Pornokrates (1858) a naked woman, blindfolded, wearing only black stockings, gloves and shoes, walking on a marble stage, being lead by a pig on a leash with a golden tail against a blue sky with three cherubs hovering above. The symbolism of this painting will boggle your mind.

In 1864, he created a lithography of Funeral in Wallonia, which shows his sensitivity to the suffering of his fellowmen. Although you cannot see the faces of the two main characters, a man and a child, you can feel their sadness.

During the last ten years of his life, Rops suffered with poor eyesight. He lived peacefully at his country home Demi-Lune, just south of Paris, where he pursued his love of flowers and created several new varieties of roses. Felicien Rops died on August 23, 1898, at the age of 65, at his beloved country home, surrounded by loved ones.

The Museum hours are 10:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m. daily; closed on Monday except in July and August. Guided tours are possible upon request. You should allow at least one hour to enjoy the interesting and thought provoking works by Felicien Rops.

• French style - Art corrects Nature, demanding strict symmetry, avoid curves or winding features
• English Style - Art adapts to Nature, emphasizes variety, contrast and surprise effects and uses natural features of the landscape
• Italian Style- Art imitates Nature, Artificially reproduces natural effects, such as waterfalls and construction of small hills and valleys.

As beautiful as the total scope of the garden is, the most astonishing feature is the water gardens. There are a total of 20 ornamental ponds and waterfalls and 48 fountains, each uniquely designed. What is amazing is that there is no machinery- no hydraulic systems to pump the water throughout the entire system. It is the same today as when it was build in the 18th century, using gravity and a series of varying sized piping.

The water comes from springs 2,100 meters away and is carried through hollowed out oak tree trucks banded together by steel cables and buried in clay soil to prevent corrosion and deterioration. For the past 230 years this water has been flowing constantly without the use of mechanical devises, flowing naturally from level to level. The water flows through the entire garden, bringing to life each fountain in its turn, then emptying into a small river. It has remained in perfect working condition since 1758. These gardens are an incredible engineering feat using only nature as the basis for the presentation of nature’s art.

The Chateau, completed in 1770, forms a slight curve to follow the valley of the Rouillon (English style- Art adapting to nature). White swans grace the mirror lake surrounding the back part of the Chateau. Our visit was in September and even without the full color of the spring flowers, the Gardens were magnificent.

Charles-Alexis de Montpellier designed his gardens for all the senses; not just wonderful to look at, but also to smell, touch and hear. The last 10 years of his life he was blind, but was still able to enjoy the pleasure of his beloved Jardins d’Annevoie.

Our guide, Stephan, learned many details from the de Montpelliers before the property was sold recently. It was interesting to hear all the stories about the "hows" and "whys" of Annevoie. Stephan usually conducts guided tours for groups of 20 or more. However it is possible to arrange a private tour, but advance arrangements are required. The gardens are open from April 1 to November 1 each year. There is plenty of parking available. Allow at least 1 to 2 hours for a tour of the Gardens but believe me, you will want to linger forever.

It was one of the largest strongholds in Europe until Napoleon ordered parts of the Citadel demolished when he felt he no longer needed its protection. The constant changing of hands continued until the Independence of Belgium in 1830. But its history didn’t stop there. It was used by the Belgian Army in the 1860s and again it saw action during both world wars.

Today, The Citadel still stands guard over Namur and is a wonderful place to spend the day. In its brochure, there are several walking tours laid out ranging from 40 minutes to 2 1/2 hours. The walks and direction markers are color coded to help you find your way. The Citadel is divided into three areas, Medieval, Mediane and Terra Nova.

The Medieval area is the oldest part of the Citadel and the location of the Chateau Des Comtes (Castle of the Counts), a restaurant and restrooms. Here we saw the remains of the stone walls, which once held the massive main gates and enclosed the beautiful grounds. There are underground tunnels to explore and many footpaths with briefings on history (written in English, French, and Dutch) at each point of interest about Europe’s most impressive citadel.

On the day we visited, there was a group dressed in medieval costumes, demonstrating the fighting techniques and lifestyles of the Middle Ages.

The Mediane was built by Charles V between 1542 and 1555 and was planned to function as a city in itself, housing the soldiers who protected it. The Guy Delforge Perfumes Workshop occupies a beautiful old building that is open to the public for tours.

. And finally Terra Nova, with its beautiful park and several excellent viewpoints. Make sure you have plenty of film. The views from here are spectacular.

After finding a parking place, we walked in the direction of the City Center. It was quite difficult getting past all the vendors on the street, and of course, we had to stop and watch the parade. We reached the cable car, purchased our tickets and up we went to the Citadel.

The complex is large; at the top there is a restaurant, gift shop and restrooms. The only way to really appreciate the Citadel is to take a free, guided tour; many areas can only be reached with a guide.

The only problem we encountered was that there are so few English-speaking tourists, the guide only gave the tour in French and Dutch. He was very kind and apologized to us and gave us a small booklet written in English that we could follow as we went along.

Starting in the Central Courtyard we walked to the Main Gallery in the middle of a large passageway, past the Powder Magazine, a small room used to store ammunitions and then we moved into the Corridors of Time. Here are rooms with scenes recalling the history of the Citadel including the "sacking" of Dinant in 1466 by Charles the Bold, and other battles up to 1914. Luckily, all written descriptions were in English, as well as French and Dutch. We also visited the Dungeons and the torture room.

Stop # 8 was by far our favorite. We exited the stone structure, into the bright daylight and onto grassy terrace, where there before us was a breathtaking panoramic view-100 meters above the River Meuse with the entire town of Namur at our feet.

The tour continued through a series of rooms entitled "Life in 1820" including a forge, kitchens and bakery. Another interesting section was Number 16- a replica of what it would have been like in the Trenches in 1914 in a collapsed shelter cave. It was complete with simulated gunfire and flares.

If you are really adventurous, skip the cable car and walk up the 408 steps to the top, or ride up and walk down. The cost is the same. After our tour, we followed the path down the steps for just a short way, but the rain clouds were building quickly and we decided to take the easy way down.

The Citadel is open 10:00 to 6:00 all year except January when it is open on weekends only. Allow one hour for the tour and a little more time on your own.