hidden havana

The Malecon should the first place you go when arrivng in Havana The winding boulevard runs the entire length of Havana along the ocean at the nothern edge of the city. It connects the three main districts of Havana: Vedado, Centro Habana and Habana Vieja

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Spend the majority of your time in Havana on foot. Much of the beauty of the city lies in discovering the hidden details of every street corner. You will however be drawn to the old 1950s style cadillacs and inevitably the peso taxis that still operate from these classic automobiles. Be wary, these drivers are restricting from giving rides to tourists, though the law is not highly enforced. The touristico taxis are easy to find (just look for the cars labelled "Havana Club"). These drivers only take dollars and unless you're headed out of the city to the beach, are very affordable. Also available are Cocotaxis, yellow bubble shaped motorized tricycles. Holding up to two passengers, these taxis are perfect for a cinematic trip up the Malecon at sunset.

El Balcon del Eden is one of the many Paladares of Havana. These privately owned restuarants are usually run out of the homes of the owner which give a warm and personal touch. Daisy, El Balcon's owner, is a charasmatic Cuban woman whose personal flair is reflected in the lavish decorations of her paladar.

Located on the balcony on the top floor of a beautiful spanish style building, El Balcon can be spotted a block away because of its red lights and the rows upon rows of hanging beads. El Balcon is advertised as being open 24 hours, but don't be surprised if you find yourself ringing the buzzer in vain. Don't be discouraged Daisy and her family live here and deserve some time to themselves. If you arrive between 7pm and midnight your chances of getting a table are good.

Once inside, expect a warm welcome from Daisy who will guide you into several rocking chairs on the balcony for a pre dinner drink. Your choices are Cuba Libres and beer.

The menu includes a wide range of fish, including very tasty shrimp and lobster, chicken and of course rice and beans. I found the combination plate ($15) to be the best bet here as you will get a sampling of all that Daisy's kitchen. After a stiff Cuba Libre you will be escorted through a beaded partition into the main room, decorated with a wide range of local art. During dinner, Daisy entertains with a generous helping of good conversation. After 15 years, she has amassed a good amount stories from the various visitors who have passed through her balcony.

Pablo Herrera is a Hip Hop producer who has recorded tracks for the U.S. label Papaya records. He has been featuresd in Time magazine and has performed in New York. He is the epicenter of the small, but talented Hip Hop scene in Havana serving as the promoter for showcases of local acts held every few weeks.

Cabaret Las Vegas, located in Vedado, is a small intimate setting with a stage and a fairly good sound system. The bar is minimally stocked with cans of beer, but the musical fare is worth the price of admission. As is the case throughout the city, the price in pesos is not congruent with the dollar value which fluxuates with who is working the door.

Herrera's hip hop showcases draw a large, young and primarily Afro-Cuban crowd who show a great deal of enthusiasm for the music. Since the Hip Hop scene is small in Havana, most people in the audience know the performers personally, which gives the show a refreshing degree of comradery, something that is rather rare in the U.S. American visitors will find that the show resembles an underground/open mic performance than the Hard Knock Life tour. The young men and women in attendance know their hip hop and are determined to make their own unique stamp on the culture.

Two heroes of Cuban independence, Jose Marti, the champion of Cuban nationhood who rallied his countrymen during war for independence in 1898 and Che Guevara, whose face has become synonomous with revoltion worldwide, are both honored in monumental proportions in the Plaza de la Revolution. A granite statue of Marti hangs thirty meters above the square. A highly stylized engraving of Guevara faces in the opposie direction from the ministerio del interior. This is the place where Castro makes many of his speeches to a sea of onlookers. A good snapshot, but the because banal architecture of the plaza one not linger here.

The story behind this rose colored mansion is that an old Spaniard living in Havana in the 30s met and fell in love with a local Cuban woman. So strong was this love that he built her this house complete with marble floors, crystal chandeliers, a spiral staircase, a magnificent garder. However, as Casa del Amistad neared completion, the young woman fell ill and soon died. Grief stricken the Colonel returned to Spain leaving the Casa to all its uninhabited splendor.

Located on Paseo in the Vedado district, Casa de la Amistad is one of the many archetectural highlights you'll see while strolling this tree lined boulevard. Casa de la Amistad is run by the Cuban government as a "friendship house." Lunch and dinner are served at mediocre prices and in the evening there is entertainment in the garden. The fare is a bit watered down, a troupe of tropicana girls in their feathered and beaded regailia dancing to recorded rhumba. All in all it resembles a weak throwback to the pre-Castro days when Cuba was considered by many to be the "bordello of the United States." This time around however there is more Disney and less brothel. But the building itself is a real treat to the eye, so emblematic of Cuba's multi-layered history.

While city of Havana has enough sites, culture and history to occupy a lifetime of travel, the weather ain't so shabby either (you are on a Caribbean Island after all). If a little surf, sun and sand are on your agenda and you aren't gung ho enough to jump off the banks of the Malecon into the ocean Playa Del Este is the perfect afternoon activity.

While the beaches to west of Havana are said to be more aesthetically pleasing, they are the property of the resorts that were opened during the country to bring in more revenue through tourism. Cubans are restricted from these areas and the resorts are known for their shady racial politics. Besides, if all you wanted was to sit on a beach with other Canadians and Europeans and go jet skiing, why not just go to Cancun? Playas del Este is the strip of beach where Cubans go to swim, play volleyball and show off some skin. This is not a mecca of spring break goofiness, but a meeting place of local life.

While there are some hotels along the eastern beaches, they are less exclusive than their western counterparts. Most like the Hotel Tropicoco are somewhat of an eyesore, but are convienient for bathroom access and calling a cab. There are several supermarkets in the area where you can stock up on beach snacks and there are many bars along the beach itself that serve (of course) mojitos and daiquiris.

Playas del Este are about a twenty minute cab ride outside of Havana proper. Most cab drivers are reliable to drop you off at a good spot. The ride cost about twelve dollars, but along the way you'll come across some camera worthy sites such as the national baseball stadium and an abundance of roadside billboards declaring the strength of la Revolution.

Castro and his government have made it very clear that tourism remain separate from the everyday lives of Cubans. Cubans are not allowed to congregate on resort beaches, hotel lobbies, and tourist clubs. A special licence is required for taxis to accept foreign passengers (hence the difference between toursist taxis and peso taxis). Since 1990 at least 22,000 hotel rooms have been built on the island. Critics of Castro's tourist policies claim that he is systematically cutting off the country from its own people with laws, they claim, that are nothing short of "tourist apartheid".

To add to this already tricky situation, the tourist industry has often been accused of practicing blatant racism. Black tourists (myself included) have been scrutinized by hotel staff thinking the guest to be not a visitor but a trespassing local. By no means is this treatment widespread. Outside of hotels, Cuba is one of the most racially integrated and tolerant societies in the world. In fact, the ideology of Cuban identity calls for its citizens to assert their Cubanismo (Cubanness) first and racial identity second. But, especially for non-white travellers, it is important to understand the reality of this situation. Everyone who visits Cuba should at all times carry a form of identitfication even while inside hotels.

You will inevitbly meet many Cubans who will become your guides and companions during your stay. Cherish these interactions, but it is important to understand that bringing a Cuban citizen back to your hotel, or to a bar or club or beach operated by a hotel will result in their being sent to jail (there is as yet no punishment for foreigners in this regard).In my experiences, 9 times out of 10 the places you will be taken by the people you meet in Havana will be far more exciting and enriching than whats going on inside of a hotel.

There is a dangerous lack of basic medical supplies in Cuba. Hospitals find themselves overstaffed (the medical education in Cuba is top notch) as their are more doctors than medicine. Items that we take for granted, band aids, condoms, asprin, are not readily availible on the island.

Keep this in mind when packing for your trip. Giving out extra medical supplies is as valuable as giving out money. I found it best to do this discreetly. Approaching someone on the street and handing them a box of condoms may not be a great idea (just imagine yourself on the recieving end in your home). If you are staying in a hotel, when you check out, leave the supplies on your bed. The staff will much appreciate this, believe me. Or say to someone "I have some extra supplies that i don't want to lug back home in my suitcase. Do you know anyone who could use these?" This will make your deed seem less condescending.

Also, tip as often as possible. There's no need to go over board with the amount. Dollars go a long way in Cuba. It is a responsibity of every traveler to Cuba to give a little back. Remember, the very act of getting on an airplane and leaving your country is a priveledge most Cubans are denied. This is a very poor country with a great deal to offer the world. It will go a long way to show some appreciation and support for the people you will meet.

Cuba needs dollars! There is very little purpose in converting your money to pesos. You will be hard pressed to find anyone who will accept Cuban pesos from foreigners. The Peso is of very little value against foreign currency (the exchange rate is rather instable due to the black market, but the official data in march 2002 was 21 pesos to one dollar). Places that deal with large amounts of tourists (hotels, car rental agencies, resorts) take most internation currency. Everywhere else will only take U.S. dollars ATM machines are few and far between and chances are your bank will not transfer money across the lines of the embargo. Bring cash, but be wary of pickpokets especially around the major hotels, where aloof tourists tend to congregate. On the same token, keep your bills safely stashed in your hotel room. Your money is fair game if found by the hotel staff (remember, the average Cuban earns less than forty dollars a month). U.S. change (quarters, dimes, etc) cannot be used, so stick to paying in paper money. When dealing in cents you must use tourist change-- coins minted in Cuba, that operate along the American equivalent.

The Malecon is the major throughway of Havana, connecting the city's three major districts-- Vedado, Centro Habana and Habana Vieja. The wide boulevard runs along the ocean at northern edge of the city. This is where you will find one of the more spectacular views as the sky and ocean open up in a painterly horizon. The ocean view brings a cross section of tourist and local life. Musicians are everywhere, waiting to serande you with their guitars and claves. You will undoubtedly hear versions of Guantanamera, Hey Jude and everything in between. It is possible to walk from Vedado to Habana Vieja in under an hour. If you're looking for a quicker method, I recommend taking a Cocotaxi. These bubble shaped three wheeled motor cycles hold up to two passengers and will give you a safe, cinematic trip along the Malecon. Nothing like your hair the ocean air on the back of motor bike!