Muktinath: Where the Gods Breathe Fire

Trekkers on Nepal's Annapurna circuit often breeze through this ancient pilgrimage site because it is situated beneath the summit of the mighty Thorong Lo pass. If you are trekking Annapurna, take some time to explore Muktinath. The temple complex has been deemed sacred because of its many natural wonders. Ammonite fossils, or saligrams, are in abundance in and around Muktinath. Millions of years old, these spiraled fossils of sea creatures are worhipped as incarnations of Lord Vishnu. Natural flames burn eternally from deep within the earth in the Jwala Mai temple. 108 water spouts feed from a high mountain stream and promise to cleanse pilgrams of their earthly sins. Finally, take time to appreciate the trees growing in a concentrated area at this high altitude location; according to legend, they grew out of the walking sticks planted by ancient Tibetan monks or holy magicians. Ask the locals to explain these natural wonders, and if they don't speak enough English to tell you about them, you can always create your own mythology.

Quick Tips:

The late fall is a great time to go to Muktinath. The weather will be cold enough to dust the mountains with a beautiful light snow cover, but you will be able to hike around the surrounding villages easily. The site is especially serene at dawn. Take a seat in amidst the temples and prayer flags and watch as the rising sun colors the towering peaks surrounding you in all directions. Make sure to dress in layers and if you are planning to hike the Thorong Lo, at an elevation of over 17,000 feet, be sure to insulate your water. Mine froze while I was trekking and the high altitude coupled with my dehydration lead to a headache I will not soon forget.

Best Way To Get Around:

The only way to navigate the towns on the Annapurna circuit is by hiking. You can easily do this alone, or you can get a porter to help you. By hiking with a porter, you are supporting the local economy. If you are pressed for time, you can take a plane or a helicopter from Pokhara up to Jomson. From there, it is an easy hike to Muktinath.

Because only Buddhist nuns and a Hindu priest live in Muktinath, the closest place to stay to the temple compex is Ranipauwa. The North Pole Hotel is one of the many guest houses set up in Ranipauwa, about a five minute walk from Muktinath. The owners of this guest house were some of the warmest people I have ever met. They will gladly sit down and chat with you and answer any questions that you may have about the area. The rooms are spartan, but clean. They provide blankets, but your own sleeping bag is always a good bet for warmth. Bathrooms and showers are outside the rooms. The food here is great, and the hot water showers offer up a very different kind of cleansing than the holy springs of Muktinath. Although I'm sure prices have risen since I was there, I can't imagine that rooms cost more than $10 USD. In my opinion, The North Pole Hotel was the best of all of the Guest Houses in Ranipauwa.

I spent several weeks in and around Muktinath speaking with people about the ancient folklore describing the natural wonders of the site. A brief undersatnding of the ancient interpretations of Muktinath will further your appreciation for the temple complex.

Most of the tales I heard related to one of the four most salient wonders in Muktinath. Within the complex, there are countless ammonite fossils, natural flames that burn eternally from beneath the earth's surface, 108 water spouts, and a number of trees that grow in surprising abundance at the high altitude location. These four attributes are responsible for Muktinath's uniquness geologically and its sacredness religiously. While the area has been regarded as sacred for thousands of years, the first temple was built 900 years ago when a Hindu King orderd the construction of the Jwala Mai temple and designated the area to accomodate both Hindu and Buddhist pilgrims.

One explanation of the ammonite fossils and the trees detailed a story of several years of fighting, betrayal, and deceit among gods and mortals in the area. According to this legend, one demi-god cursed Vishnu by transforming him into saligram stone, a pipal tree, and a special type of grass. Hense, he is now manifested and worshipped in these forms.

Other explanations of the trees relate to holy magicians, ancient Tibetan monks, or ancient Sadhus on pilgrimage from India. According to these stories, the magicians, monks or sadhus happened upon Muktinath accidentally and marveled at its beauty. They stuck their walking sticks in the ground and poured out ladles of water upon the ground. Their walking sticks miraculously transformed into the trees that now grow in Muktinath and the holy water created the springs that now flow in Muktinath.

Finally, stories about the flames generally relate to a god or holy man passing through the area. Some stories claim that a god's mouth fell off at the site where the flames now burn. Others claim that the ancient Buddhist Guru Rinpoche lost a tooth at the site. More recent mythology has been created to explain the disappearance of one of the three supposedly eternal flames. Many believe that sinners to the area caused the flame cease burning. Others believe that godly power destroted the flame as a warning to people who no longer believe in or respect the Gods and therefore mistreat each other.

These story illustrate the ancient culture of mythology that has surrounded Muktinath for thousands of years. When you experience Muktinath, remember that you are walking where Gods have previously stepped.