Winter comes to Venice

We arrived in Venice by train, over the land and water until we reached, quite literally, the end of the line. The Main train station seemed more chaotic than either Roma or Florence. Could be the long line at the tourist counter to pick up a map, or the hoards of hotel barkers husseling rooms. In any case, we purchased our vaporetto ticket and made or slow and steady way down the Grand Canal to the Lido and our hotel. It was windy and threatening rain as we walked to our hotel. We had every kind of weather over our four day stay. Rain and windstorms, damp seeping fog, bright sunny days complete with cotton candy clouds. I love Venice in the fog. It really brings out the atmosphere.

Quick Tips:

Our hotel was on the Lido, a long, thin island traditionally known as a beach resort. Not much resort activity in November, but I was enchanted by the small town residential feel of the island. Down the main street, Santa Maria Elizabetta, we found a wonderful vegetable market and bakery, a more traditional grocery store across the street, and what seemed like the Italian verson of Target. The Lido is about a mile across, with some of the same canals as Venice proper, and miles of fine sandy beaches against the emerald green Adriatic Sea.

Best Way To Get Around:

No cars are allowed in Venice. You won't miss them. I loved taking the Vaporettos (water busses). Crusing along the water with the air on your face. It's cliche I know, but I love the smell of the ocean. The narrow walkways and alleyways are confusing and difficult to navigate. Buy a map before you get there and study it. Good advice for any location, but especially Venice. It's okay to get lost. Being lost is the best way to learn about a place and how the people live everyday.

Villa Beatrice is not close to the Santa Maria Elizabetta vaporetto station, the only vap station on the Lido. This charming B&B is a good 25 minute bus ride (or by car if you have one) away. In fact, when we were on our way to the hotel, I was close to panic that I had missed the stop when it was even futher ahead. So now that you know the worst of it, let me tell you the best.

It's delightful, totally. The place is run by a husband and wife team whose names I never did get, but who have a cat named Brian. He, the husband, is an artist in addition to running the B&B and his work hangs on the walls. The hotel has been completely re-done in the past year with new floors, windows, doors, moulding and plumbing. The rooms are large and have king sized beds, ceiling fans, mini-bars and matching antique furnishings. The bathrooms are well equiped with tub/shower combos, hair dryers and good ventalation. Everything was immaculate. Breakfast is included in the room and is a bufffet of cereals, yogurts, fruits and juices, cheese and sliced meats. The Breakfast room is open and airy with a wall of sliding glass doors looking out onto the privite garden. The area is quiet and green and seemed very un-touristy.

The Hotel Villa Delle Palm occupies a converted home on a quiet residential street on the Lido. From St. Marks Square, it is a 30 minute ferry ride to the Lido, and another 10 minute walk to the Hotel. There are 12 rooms, with a bathroom on each floor except the top. There are no rooms with privite baths. Our room was comfortably furnished with two twin beds, a desk and armoire and we had a window overloking their lovely garden. The mattresses were soft (finally!) but not lumpy or sagging, and the room was clean and bright. Breakfast was served downstairs on a room filled with bentwood chairs and tables. The meal was basic (only a hard roll with butter and coffee) but the room was pleasant. The bathrooms are very large, both with baths and showers, but I had a difficult time getting hot water. Most of my showers were tepid at best.

We were visiting in the off season, so the rates were extremely reasonable. I loved the residential feel of the Lido, and enjoyed having a hotel away from the husle of the city. I have since noticed that the rates here have increased dramatically. At the time of our stay, this was a 2 star hotel, which has since been upgraded to a three star. If the increase in service correlates, this would be a very good hotel for the expense.

The Hotel Denali is a sumptous five star hotel just off of San Marco Square. On our last night in Venice, we decided to stop in for a drink at Harry's Bar. The waiter asked us if we had reservations (For a DRINK!!). Well, we decided to have our drink elsewhere, and found the Denali to be a warm and hospitable choice. The lobby and bar are elegantly decorated with plush velvet chairs and couches. Sittee groups surround dark wood tables perfect for intimate conversations. There was a tuxedo clad singer belting out American classics on a grand piano, and a group of Italians (and their dog) drinking coctails at the bar.

We sat in a grouping halfway between the bar and lobby, where we could see everything going on in the hotel. Besides the people at the bar, the place was virtually empty. A waiter came to take our order as soon as we sat down. He returned with our drinks, and a three-tiered snack tray of cookies, crackers and nuts. We sat in the lobby for well over an hour enjoying the music an atmosphere and despite the suroundings, found it utterly lacking in pretention (unlike Harry's). Highly recommended if you just want to have a quiet drink in a beautiful place.