Ceret-City of Cherries

Ceret may seem like a sleepy little town without much going on. But during a festival or celebration and the place really comes to life! While it is yet another medieval town and still contains a lot of historical architecture I found browsing the city streets and shops, the Modern Art Museum and chatting with friendly locals in the cafes to be a memorable part of my first visit.

Because of Ceret's close proximity to Spain its shares many cultural events with its neighbors just south of the Pyrenees. In particular there are festivals in Mid-May to celebrate the cherry season; the second week in July starts a month long fest of bull-fighting (there is an arena in town), dancing, music, even a running of the bulls! A Penultimate weekend in August welcomes the International Sardana Festival (a 3-day dance competition that is very colorful and traditional) and in late September there is a HUGE 3 day Latin and Mediterranean Festival which draws the biggest crowds for music,dancing and food.

The Modern Art Museum is a must see-even if you are not a fan of "modern art". The first floor exhibits have some wonderful original Picasso's as well as historical artifacts. The upstairs is tres modern-with "installations" of fabric and sound. The cafes and restaurants scattered around the town are inviting as well.

Quick Tips:

Ceret is set admidst cherry, peach and apricot orchards with lots of scenic fountains. Mature plane trees line the esplanades and make strolling quite shady. Considered to be a "Mecca of Cubism" it drew artists from early 19th century on, many whose works can be seen in the Musee de Art Moderne. You can cover Ceret as a half day trip from Collioure or Banyuls or Perpignan.

If you plan to attend any of the aforementioned festivals, you must book reservations for accomodations months in advance.

Best Way To Get Around:

Ceret is located along the Tech River, about 10km from Le Boulou. You need a car but once there park and walk the shady tree-lined streets.

This casual cafe near the Musee de Art Modern is the perfect spot to savor the experience of the art museum. We ordered several Schweppes lemon (over ice)-a drink I have learned to love but have been unable to find in the U.S. To accompany our thirst we munched on a plate of brie, cherries, apricots and peaches served with a couple of fresh baked rolls. It was actually heavenly. This yummy, exceedingly fresh fare provided us with a delectable hour or so of loitering at our leisure waiting for the shops to reopen.

At the entrance to town a single arched bridge called Pont du Diable(because it was thought that only the Devil could build such a thing)was built in 1321. The bridge crosses the Tech River, which is rocky and can be tumultous. It would be difficult to cross without a bridge. The architect is said to have made a deal with the Devil to build the bridge. The Devil requested the soul of the first Ceretan who walked across as his reward for helping the architect build through the rocky river. The engineer who built it first tried to send a cat over but the trick backfired as then none of the locals would use it for fear of incurring the Devil's wrath. Supposedly the architect tricked the devil and made him so mad that he attempted to tear down the bridge.There is even a carved stone placed there by the restorer showing the Devil trying to tear out the stones.

The bridge became famous in later years as a refuge for escapees from Franco's fascist regime, with many famous artists passing through or spending time here.

Whatever its origins, it is a beautiful bridge that provides a breathtaking view of the river and valley below.

For a true"ethnic" experience, a visit to Ceret to see the Sardanas is the real thing. This is a true example of Catalan culture and the music and dance dates back hundreds (if not a thousand) years. Its origins as a regional dance are hotly debated. Some claim it goes back to the 3rd century before the Celts and Romans while others agree that it has connections to the contrepas, a form of round dancing found in many folk dances of Europe. The dance is always performed in the round, hand-in-hand and can be composed of a mixture of ages, sexes, social classes, etc.

Performing dancers wear brightly colored costumes,performing specific and quite intricate steps to the engaging music. Steps are composed of long and short steps of varying difficulty. >When you see a group of "ordinary" people (those not attired in costumes) you will find a more "authentic" presentation of the Sardanas. If your feet start tapping and you feel like you just cant help joining in - that's fine...but there are a few basic rules of etiquette to keep in mind. 1) If the circle is composed of men and women, it cannot be entered by a "single". The person on your right is considered your partner and to break up 2 partners is quite rude. If you are joining alone, look for a circle of same sex partners and you will be quite welcome. 2) You need to be able to count to 33. Dance steps are fairly simple but follow in a pattern that requires counting to 33. But locals will be helpful. Look for a group that is laughing a lot and looking like they are having a good time! The International festival lasts for 3 days in August, with renditions and versions of the traditional dance displayed in streets, arenas, anywhere there is a little room. The music is supplied by a musical group called a cobla and consists of woodwind and drum instruments. Along with the dancing, there is a huge outdoor market, bullfights and evening concerts held during the 3 day event.

Most tourists who visit Ceret are interested in the Musee d'Art Moderne. The first floor exhibits combine beauty and art history with original works by the Fauvists, Cubists and Surrealists as well as works by more recent artists. One of my favorite exhibits is a series of bowls painted with bull motiffs that was done by Picasso. Since most of the captions and explanations are in French, researching a little (from a guidebook,etc..) will make it a more interesting experience, as you will have a greater understanding of what you are viewing. Not only are there fantastic originals exhibited here by Picasso, Dali, Chagal, Dufy and Braque,but also personal effects,fascinating letters,and other memorabilia connected to these artists and their relationship to Ceret. The artwork is displayed in beautiful galleries with lots of natural light supplied by huge windows looking out onto a lovely patio. Because of this connection to fine art, Ceret has become a center for arts and crafts of all types and you will find many original pieces in some of the shops and galleries in the town. On the second floor you will find examples of truly Modern art. Many are temporary exhibits and many are quite unusual. The presentation of art pieces called "installations", are exhibited here. This artwork consists of a variety of media that appeals to sight,sound,touch,even smell. Since didnt quite understand what it was I was viewing,I think I would have jhad a greater appreciation of it if icould have read about it in English. One of the newest installations is composed of a series of unique and colorful costumes for children made of a variety of fabrics in colors and textures that kids will love. They are encouraged to try these costumes on (they can go right over their clothing) in a room stocked with loads of mirrors. What great photo ops! It is a great exhibit for children to develop and expand some creativity.