Angkor What?

Everyone says to see Angkor Wat for both sunrise and sunset - I (ahem) only made it to the latter and it was so fantastic I regret not getting out of bed to see the former. Climb to the highest point of the interior and watch the sun sink down over the city - both breathtaking and peaceful. Watching from the outide will provide a stunning backdrop to the impressive temple silhouette. Photographers, the golden hour of light will impress your friends and fool yourself into believing you're ready for National Geo. (Agoraphobics: the temples get very crowded at these times - avoid them if you can't stand the masses.)

Set aside extra time for the other big sellers, the Bayon and Ta Phrom. The Bayon is impressive with its many faces (either Buddha or King Jayavarman VII - depending on your guide) smiling in all four directions. Ta Phrom is overgrown with spectacular banyan trees - it is a sprawling temple allowing for some serious Indiana Jones-type action.

There are more temples than time may allow, but don't rush either. The beauty is reveling in the lush beauty, studying the remarkable reliefs, and contemplating the wonder of the past.

Quick Tips:

Although it's great fun to explore the temples on your own, its worth it to hire a guide for at least one of your days in Siem Reap. He will give insight to the history and to the people of Siem Reap and Cambodia in general that a book just can't.

Also take the time to speak to the children that are hawking cold drinks. They will impress you with their language skills and knowledge of the temples - just be sure to give them a little something for their time.

Likewise, get to know other tourists. They will be helpful to give tips on temples they have just seen - what to avoid (scams) and what not to miss. It's a great opportunity to meet some interesting folks, and even share guides/cabs to cut costs.

An obvious (but worth mentioning) safety tip: because of Cambodia's tulmultuous past, active mines still exist around the country, paticularly around the Angor Wat area. It is best to literally stay on the beaten path when visiting.

Best Way To Get Around:

Motos, motos, motos - men on mopeds are everywhere and are ready to take you temple hopping. Hand him a dollar, hop on back, and your off. For a full day tour, arrange a price before hand - and chances are the driver'll be ready to give you some temple history for a few dollars more.

For the faint-hearted, most guest houses and hotels can arrange for a cab and a guided tour. If you prefer getting there on your own steam, bicycle rentals are easily found as well.

Smiley's is just that - an extremely friendly place with great food, good laundry service, and warm people. The owners will help you arrange any service you may need - bike rentals, tour guides, cabs to the airport, etc. There is no hot water, but that didn't seem to bother me as the cool shower felt fantastic after a day of temple exploring. The rooms are typical guesthouse style, worn but clean, mosquito nets and fans. For extra you can have A.C. and/or a private bath.

The four of us got one room with 4 beds and a private bath - cost was (I think) $7 US per person per night. It is possible to negotiate (longer you stay, the less per night).

Food runs anywhere between $1-6. For $3 I had FABULOUS lemongrass chicken - 3 of us agreed that it was the best meal on the entire trip (even the vegetarian admitted it smelled good.) Also great - the banana lhasi. Part banana, part yogurt, totally delicious - still find myself craving one.

Food and drink tab is kept a composition notebook - simply write down what you want and turn the notebook in. Your tab is tallied at the end of your stay - very convienient - albeit dangerous for those on a budget!

I imagine most guesthouses are the same, but we checked out a few and really liked the atmosphere at Smiley's. Fellow backpackers whom we met down the line shared our feelings. The Ritz it ain't, but no complaints here.

Within the city of Siem Reap and outside of virtually every temple are little eateries that serve up surprisingly good cuisine. Whether you enjoy eating Asian foods or prefer to stick to a good ole cheese sandwich, you can pretty much find what you want. The menu seems to be ubiquitous at the eateries and at the guesthouses - but no matter, it just gives you the opportunity to try out many dishes. Prices typically range from $1 - $6, so if necessary you can really tighten that budget and still eat fairly well. A plus - Cambodia has fantastic bread (thanks to the French), so even if you stick to sandwiches you're bound to make out well.

Don't let the appearance of these places intimidate you. It is an opportunity to eat some real food and interact with real Cambodians. While there may be no FDA, most of these places are fine - do what you would normally do: if it sounds suspicious, don't order it. Besides, if you can eat a hotdog from a cart in NY (or any city) you most certainly can handle this.

After a day of climbing those steep temple stairs and giving Lara Croft a run for her money, nothing beats a full body massage. Unless of course that massage is only 3 US bucks. Seeing Hands Massage, an establishment run for and by the blind, uses its profits to train the visually impaired in the art of massage as well as other provide funding for related projects. There is often a wait to get in, so I went ahead of time and arranged to return in an hour for my massage.

Upon entering, I was given a little basket with a cotton shirt and pants to change into, but since I was wearing a tank top and shorts the staff told me not to bother. I was then led to a table where a petite woman with cloudy eyes was awaiting me. After greeting her, she placed her hands on my shoulders and worked her way down to get an idea of my body shape and size. She motioned for me to get on the table, placed a white sheet over my body and then proceeded to massage my entire body from over the sheet, from rubbing my scalp to snapping my toes. At one point, she got onto the table (joined by her cat!) and knelt on my back, her tiny knees doing wonders on a back that had been carrying a pack to long. By the end of the hour, both the cat and I were almost asleep.

Although the din of the outside traffic was audible, there was light flute music playing, contributing to an all around relaxing experience. Perhaps not the best massage I've had, but for three dollars, being a philanthropist never felt so decadant.