Marin: More than Hot Tubs and BMWs

Marin has so many options for an active adventure or casual Sunday drive, it is impossible to choose. But here's my shortlist:

1) Drive to Mt. Tam and hike up to the top from the Pantoll Station. The views of San Francisco and beyond are stellar.

2) Visit the communities and parks around Tomales Bay. The 10 mile round trip hike to Tomales Point is dramatic and remote.

3) Drive along the backroads, like Lucas Valley Road, or the Pt. Reyes-Petaluma road, and admire the bucolic ranches. This area is still a center for dairy production.

4) Stop by Samuel P. Taylor Park for some redwoods without the crowds of Muir Woods.

Quick Tips:

Depending on where you are, Marin's weather ranges from blustery and foggy to hot and dry (all in the same day). Take a windbreaker, some polarfleece for the one extreme and water and sunscreen for the other.

Best Way To Get Around:

Public transit exists, but is mostly limited to the urban areas. Driving is the easiest way to explore some of the backroads, but you can also enjoy some marvelous loop rides by bicycle.

Although a few vintners call Marin home, this region lacks the vineyards and wineries of its northern neighbors, Napa and Sonoma. But what Marin does have is plenty of cows (and some sheep and goats) supplying the raw ingredients for artisanal cheeses. There are also several farms producing everything from olive oil to organic produce.

A tour and tasting of various cheese producers and other gourmet food retailers in the region is just as fun as sipping Chardonnays. Furthermore, there's no need for designated driving. Below is a list of places worth the calories.

Cuisine Perel specializes in condiments. Not ketchup and pickle relish, but infused oils, dipping sauces, pourable chocolate sauces....

You can find their products at upscale food stores nationwide, but if you visit the shop in San Rafael (3100 Kerner Blvd.), they have it all in one place. They are happy to give lectures on Grapeseed Oil, a tasty oil which makes Olive Oil look like Lard, heath-wise.

Marin French Cheese Company is located just on the Marin-Sonoma border. They've been in business over a century producing French style Brie and Camembert, under the "Rouge et Noir" label. Being in California, they've lost some of the Gallic stiffness and produce a few funky flavored varieties- Pesto, Peppercorn, Jalapeno, Garlic...

They offer periodic free factory tours and have a nice tasting room with their products on sale, as well as breads, salami, and other makings for a picnic. Take your purchases outside to their barbeque area and enjoy lunch under the trees.

(Directions: Hwy. 101 North to Novato. Take last exit, San Marin Drive. Turn left on San Marin Drive and drive about 2 miles to Novato Blvd. At stop sign, turn right on Novato Blvd. WEST. Drive approx. 7 miles to Petaluma - Pt. Reyes Rd. Turn left and drive about 1/4 mile: 7500 Red Hill Road. If you get lost you can always call them: (707) 762-6001)

Cowgirl Creamery, located in Point Reyes Station, acts as a distributor for many artisanal cheese producers. They have a mix of cow, sheep and goat cheese. For those who love the latter, try the Humboldt Fog, a semi-firm chevre with a layer of ash in the middle.

Also on sale there is the new local favorite - Point Reyes Original Blue, California's first Blue Cheese. Produced at the Giacomini Ranch just across the street from Tomales Bay, the cold, salty fog helps give the cheese its tang. The family has only recently started selling (this is their only product)to consumers, but if you have the foresight, you might be able to arrange a tour if you contact them at either or info@pointreyescheese.com

Contact info: Cowgirl Creamery 80 4th Street, just off Hwy 1. (415) 663-9335.

R. Giacomini Dairy, 14700 Hwy 1, Point Reyes Station, (800) 591-6878

You could spend months exploring every option. Mount Tam has over 50 miles of trail within the park and connects to a larger, 200-mile-long trail system. If you felt like it, you could go from the summit (2500+ ft) down to the ocean. Many people run this on the Dipsea race!

However, for a less extreme adventure (about 4.5 miles of hiking with moderate elevation changes), try parking at the Pantoll ranger's station and doing a loop hike up to the 3 peaks and then around the back. You'll get to experience amazing vistas and quiet groves and peaceful alpine meadows.

Start out on Old Stage Road, which was a railroad that led up to the historic West Point Inn. This little mountain retreat is still in operation, and is only $30 to stay the night. The accomodations are pretty rustic-you need to hike in with your sleeping bag, but that's part of the charm.

You'll next take Rock Springs trail up. And I mean straight up. This is the hardest part of the hike and on a narrow little trail that could use some maintenance to boot- but worth it for the views. You'll end up on the access road to the East Peak, about .1 miles from a very conveniently located water fountain and restroom.

Take the little extender trail from the parking lot to the summit. (As you can figure out, non-hikers can drive here.) The views from the top cannot be described in words other than "wow."

You have several options at this point, but I'd recommend heading out to Old Mine Trail. You'll pass a lovely alpine meadow and can take a detour to the Mountain Theater. Not much else to report, except more lovely views of the Pacific as you head back towards where you parked at PanToll.

There's also water and restrooms at PanToll, and be sure to pick up a map so you can choose your own routes and be able to navigate.

The hike to the end of Tomales Point is a fabulous experience, but you have to save it for the right time. If you yearn for a chance to bask in the warm sunshine and have great vistas, you'd be better off taking a hike on Mt. Tam. But if you have just read Wuthering Heights or are in the mood for a ramble through the moors, then read on.

You'll leave your car at the historic Pierce Ranch. The trail goes around the back and straight out to the point. There are no other cross trails, and indeed, not much else out here. This is a desolate place: cold, windy, foggy and barren of much besides scrub and other tenacious brush, and the occasional boulder perched like a dolman.

The first 2 miles are the least interesting- sometimes the fog is so thick that you cannot see the cliffs down to the ocean (although you will hear the surf). But press on.

Midway through the hike you will come to a pond where Tule elk often congregate. There are hundreds in the preserve (in fact, population pressures have the rangers putting the does on birth control), and they are fun to watch. As long as you stay on the trail and engage in sensible behavior, you should avoid the wrath of the males, even in rutting season.

After this the trail gets sandy and you will have to scramble up some narrow points. But do make it out to the point- if only to experience the feeling of being at the end of the earth, with only a buoy bell and the antics of the sea birds to keep you company.

Follow these links for more information on the elk reserve or on the historic Pierce Ranch.

The birthplace of mountain biking, Marin is a beautiful county to explore on two wheels. Yet it is daunting to the casual cyclist for many scenic rides through Marin involve climbing hugh hills.

This ride is beautiful, remote and (mostly) flat. You can start in the town of Nicasio, leaving your car parked along the town square. A map is included, but here are written directions as well.

1)Head North on Nicasio Valley Road. You'll pass by (and over) the resevoir at several points.

2) At the T go left on the Point Reyes-Petaluma connector. You will pass by a few farms and, maybe, a truck stopped by the road selling fruit. (Best chances for informal produce shopping are in June through October.)

3) You will then take another left onto Sir Francis Drake Rd., which will then dip and curve through the lovely redwoods of Samuel P. Taylor State Park. There is some more traffic on this road than the others, but it's not overwhelming.

4) At the tiny enclave of San Germino turn left back onto Nicasio Valley Road. Or, if it's Saturday morning, you can stop here and wander through their small farmer's market. (There are a few nice ladies who usually sell fresh baked muffins, scones, and banana bread.)

5) After about 3 miles on Nicasio Valley Road you return to your starting point. You might choose to indulge in a nice brunch at the Rancho Nicasio. (I'd recommend the Huevos Rancheros and the oysters.)

Other than the seasonal roadside stands and farmer's markets, there are no real services (convenience stores, bike stores, etc.) outside of a small general store at Nicasio. So bring with you what you need in terms of water, snacks and sunscreen.

This journal contains only a partial listing of day trip activities within Marin County. For a longer visit and more ideas, please visit some of my other journals exploring points in Marin and just-over-the-border Sonoma. Marin makes a marvelous weekend for those who would rather get away from the big-city life of San Francisco (Although I'm sure you NYC and LA folks think us a sleepy little village.)

For a visit to Point Reyes, especially for biking and exploring the lighthouse and Drake's Bay attractions, see Don't Miss the Point.

For more information (including meals and accomodations) in the area, as well as a description of kayaking on Tomales Bay, see Civilization on Tomales Bay.

Sonoma County is just north of Marin. Some nearby attractions worth visiting are the town of Occidental. The Russian River is a relatively close wine region to visit.

If you'd like to compare the charms of some of the region's towns, check here. Bolinas is in Marin, and Bodega and Bodega Bay just over the border.

Finally, if you are looking for a fun little waterfront community to explore (and paddle or cycle around), check out Sausalito.