Majestic Degrees of Altitude

In the early 1900’s Glacier was being advertised as the "Swiss experience in America" by the Great Northern Railroad under the vision of Louis Hill. He wanted to construct all the buildings in Glacier and Waterton in a Swiss theme and was ahead of his time (and Disney) in this marketing scheme.
When I first stayed at Many Glacier in 1993, I thought it was a rambling bit of finery that plunked itself next to Swiftcurrent Lake. We visited in July and the entertainment committee (young people from many countries working here for the summer) had planned a charming "Christmas in July" party.
It reminded me of going to camp!
Items available for dinner were things that one would have during the holidays including ice carvings on the main table and Santa butter cookies! In the lobby we met to sing Christmas carols and to be entertained by employee skits…until a storm came through and all the lights went out! That should have dampened the whole evening, but it pushed us up to a new level as the fireplace was lit and we could almost imagine the snow flying outside! It’s not unusual for summer night temperatures to drop to 40F so pack fleece!
Pretty soon we were arm-in-arm with strangers swaying to the music under the stuffed mountain goat now decorated with a shiny red nose. Rudolph was probably insulted……

Currently, Many Glacier is involved in an 8 million dollar federal construction project that is trying to save the sagging foundation and the extensive balconies.

I don’t know how many years the project will last. The "Hungry Horse News" www.hungryhorsenews.com reported that the hotel will remain open with most construction occurring in early spring and fall. This June the central area was torn up with 3 levels of balconies off the building and my guess is that they will be using either wing for guests.

When you stay at Many Glacier it is almost like being on a cruise ship with the activities that occur here. Horseback riding is a big deal with packages from 2 hours to full day rides. Boat cruises take you across the lake to the trailheads leading to Grinnel Glacier (8 miles roundtrip with a wicked elevation gain of 1600’.)

Perhaps you’d like to go on a whitewater rafting trip or a scenic helicopter tour? See your concierge!

Our rooms were stark in comparison to the massive wood beam construction in the lobby. Narrow wood slats formed a wainscot that was painted white. The rooms are small in typical early century form. The bath was a retro 1930’s deal with small inlaid tiles and white fixtures. Although the furniture was old, I wouldn’t have classified it as charming antique. Bear in mind that with two kids, we were booked into one of the cheapest rooms we could find at this great location. I’d give my eyeteeth to stay in the suites!

In 1913 when this lodge was built there weren’t any roads into the park! Very wealthy people arrived by boat from across the lake. Therefore, the architecturally interesting parts of this 3-storey recreation of a Swiss Chalet are facing the lake while todays visitors arrive at the back of the wood building.
That won’t stop you from entering the lobby and saying " WHOAH-HOOOHH!" at the immense post and beam timbered construction. The fireplace stretches across one wall and is large enough to roast an entire buffalo…with room left over! The surround of the fireplace has Native American symbols and signs etched strategically across it while the floor has Native American words etched into slabs that say things like "Peace and Happiness" and other greetings.
The original (and highly collectable) Mission furniture has been removed, but many of the rugs, paintings, and stuffed animals are from the early 1900’s. The immense Western style ironwork candelabrum is a work of art that belongs in a museum! Take a few moments to admire the paper-thin painted shades with the red, orange, and black Native American symbols on them!

Many tours leave from this lobby, such as the 1930’s Red Buses that Ford Motor Company just restored for the Park. During the evening a ranger visits for special free talks which are always interesting about geology, animals, plants, and ecological issues.
Take the left hallway, and it will take you to Russell’s Fireside Dining Room where all windows face the lake. It’s amazing to sit at the highly polished natural timber tables watching the light change over the lake and the mountains beyond. A wide variety of continental meals at average to slightly above average prices are offered. My luncheon Caesar salad (minus chicken) was $ 8.00. Although the dinner menu carries higher end dining; hamburgers or other light meals are always available. The entire lakeside patio is tiered for unobstructed views and leads to the boat dock for the special cruises offered (beginning at $12 for adults). You can also rent your own boat if you prefer to wander alone.

Accommodations are either in the main lodge or the cabins spread about the woods. One must keep in mind that although many services have been updated since 1913, most of America’s National Historic lodges are in need of various degrees of modernization. This doesn’t mean that you should skip a visit because you will miss a special experience! The Lake McDonald Lodge is smaller than many of the other historic properties, but it is one of the most authentic in its Western art décor. Heck, it even smells different…must be the lemon oil on all those wood logs? The rooms are smaller and more simple than what most North American hotels offer today! However, you will not question the reasons of your stay as the sun sets behind the mountains sending beams of color across the lake. The rush of tourists left hours ago, and you have this sensuality to yourself!

Enter the forest of tall wispy cedars along the flat boardwalk and enjoy the distant sound of rushing water and the whisper of the wind above. The trail starts flat and level enough for wheelchair access, but it won’t remain that way for long!
You’ll start to climb slowly as the sound of rushing water comes closer and the forest thickens around you. I peer at fallen logs that resemble the skeletal remains of some huge beast left to rest awaiting the slow action of decay.

Another wooden boardwalk spans a narrow gully where immense boulders weep with green moss and the water swirls in a white blur below my feet. I close my eyes and feel A narrow sunbeam warm my face as it reached me….somehow…. through the full canopy above
. Breath deep….slowing of the heart…..as the water music enters your mind.
You won’t be able to keep your eyes closed long because the beauty of the gorge pulls At you and begs to be consumed. "This is just the beginning!" you’ll think to yourself! "Onward and upward we go!" back into the forest that now begins to climb and narrow over a dirt path and uneven stones.

We are talking as we walk, not because of any particular bear danger, but because we are totally alone. I stop and laugh, turning around to Ron behind me, and see a deer frozen in the woods no more than 20 ft off the trail. I didn’t see her when I passed….. and wondered if she had magically appeared! We hold our breath grabbing for camera’s afraid that she will bolt too quickly but she stayed with us, eyes full of innocent curiousity. Progressing, we warn approaching trekkers of her location and they do the same for us. The words " Deer on right….200 ft." or "Elk on slope…… left & across the stream." were whispered in anticipation.

After one hour, dehydration had set in, so we took a water break against a boulder where a glacier could be seen across the valley and a trail of waterfalls cascaded over giant steps. I’m pleasantly tired, but anxious to continue, since I know what is awaiting me at the end!
I run on ahead, leaving Ron behind, knowing that the valley would open to a circle of mountains below a glacier. I’ve been here when dozens of ribbon waterfalls wash into the lake called " Avalanche" due to the steep granite walls that contain it. Today there are 6….maybe 7…. as the glaciers have retreated since my first visit in 1981. If you have energy, you can hike around the lake to the glacial skree, but I prefer to sit and absorb the scene while watching the world’s most beautiful Harlequin ducks that happen to breed here in summer.
This is a "Zen moment"…..truly a hidden treasure!

The Hidden Lake Trail begins right behind the Logan’s Pass Information Station On wooden boardwalks that protect the fragile alpine vegetation below. This is the top of the Continental Divide at 6,646 ft. above sea level. Although it isn’t as high as some passes in Colorado, the effect on your lowland body is going to be the same…shortness of breath, vertigo, weakness, and colder temperatures than you anticipate. You aren’t a wimp; it’s a degree of altitude problem! Consider more water than usual for your hike, energy snacks, warmer clothing, and allow more time than you thought to make the trek allowing for frequent rests. The trail itself isn’t difficult if you prepare yourself in this manner.

Every time I’ve hiked here there have been areas of snowpack still on the trail. This last June, the "Going to the Sun Road" opened the latest in recorded history at the very end of the month! Did you notice the tall poles that are stuck in the roads on the way up? Those are markers for the snowcats to push snow over the side of the narrow road…sometimes they topple too!
The mountain goats are all over this area and the hike is worth it just to see them. I’ve heard that the animals come here to eat the antifreeze off the pavement from the cars! Rangers have been shooing the animals away but recent talks have been about letting a test group of animals do what they want since they come back as soon as the "pooohlice" leave the area! It was noted that none have become sick or died from their gourmet meal. It might be harder to spot the Hoary Marmot that is a rodent-like critter who lives up here too. I’ve taken to calling my children "Hoary Marmot’s" when they iritate me!
Cirque’s, which are depressions carved by glacial ice are like dimples in the low terrain with the twisted knarly and stunted bristlecone pine trees protected from the harsh conditions by exposed rock formations. I’ve seen Pascal flowers up here at the most odd times, not just at Easter as early settler’s thought.
When you reach the Hidden Lake overlook, you’ll need to make a decision on descending the steep and sometimes slippery trail down to the lake itself. I can attest that every muscle in your body will be aching the next day if you choose to continue descending (and eventually ascending) the trail..After the first time, we’ve been very happy with the splendid high view from the top of the pass with the lake below us!
The Logan’s Pass information center has displays about the area and you can pick up a book to help you learn more about the geology, plants, and animals. There are ranger led hikes on the schedule board at the desk inside that are really wonderful and suitable for school age children and older.

The first time we hiked here our kids were small and we had camped overnight. It was then that we discovered that the East side of the park gets more mosquitos and biting flies than the West! Be sure that you have a can of bug repellent with you for your sanity!
On that first trip in 1981, this waterfall was called "Trick" falls which was a white man’s name. The "trick" was that it seemed that the water flowed from two directions.

• over the top of the cliffs like a regular waterfall
• from the very center of the earth.

This illusion of water coming from the center of the earth makes this site a holy one for the people of Indian Nations. Be aware that there will be times that this trail is closed because religious ceremonies are taking place. Oral history states that a warrior Blackfoot woman who came here on vision quests first discovered this area. GOD bless those warrior Women!
The second time I hiked here the upper falls were completely dry and only the center falls could be seen and I’ve heard that the volume does fluctuate during the year. Perhaps it was more magical since the inner waterfall was so pronounced and you could clearly see into the dark reaches of the cave.
The third time I visited, the Indian name for the waterfall had been officially accepted by the National Park Service and there was so much water in early summer that it was rather frightening and thunderous! The path had been upgraded for wheelchair access and was one of the first of its kind in our nation.
This is an easy flat hike with a wide trail that marches through the forest that is often eerily silent among the tall Cedar and Fir. This silent effect certainly adds to the mystique of the place making you look over your shoulder frequently at unseen spirits. Was I imagining the flutter of invisible wings passing my head? My eyes were straining to peer far enough into the forest as I felt that unseen eyes watched from bushes beyond. To your left you can glimpse a stream as you wander while information about various plants that are considered helpful by the Native American tribes for various things (such as medicine) is posted along the path. The sound of rushing water increases as you near your destination and the forest gives way to rocky cliffs where light hits the walls in odd ways casting strange shadows and shapes.
I have never felt threatened by the narrow curtain of the spirit world, but the aura of the unseen is felt very close to the surface. It is without a doubt a very holy place. Keeping that in mind, you may want to consider this trip as a combination outdoor activity as well as a way to study North American Indian Culture by doing some reading of religion or mythology to enhance your day.

Pow-wow’s aren’t held to entertain tourists nor is the primary focus making money. It is a spiritual event where the combination of dance, drums, and song are moments of meditation.Unless the Pow-wow is a charity event, there isn’t an admission fee,although many dances use the entrance fee to fund scholarships for young people.

Some dancers will have numbers pinned on their clothing, indicating that they are entered into a dance competition, but the "Caller" at the event is careful to announce that anyone present may dance! The trick is that some dances, such as the Gourd Dance, are religious requiring that the dancer be part of a trained society. The Caller directs which dance is done and also announces if the floor is open for social dancing. While the majority of dances are intended for all people (including children) anyone who steps into the circle is expected to be moving!

If you arrive before the Grand Entry, you need to be warned that the inner chairs are intended for the host tribe, the drummers, and the singers only! Spectators stand or sit on bleachers outside the dance circle.
The Grand Entry is a solemn moment and you are expected to stand showing your respect. The flag bearers usher in the American flag and those of the Indian Nations while many of the carriers will be dressed in full tribal regalia. The amazing spectacle of beadwork, tinwork, and feather arrangements are breathtaking! I asked one man about his tribal wear (do not call it a costume!) and he told me that some of his items were handed down from his grandfather but that his formal dress is a work constantly in progress. Most American Indians will work on this attire their entire life adding pieces that have spiritual or special significance in complex designs. Special spears topped with eagle or bear claws meant that this person was worthy of respect, not only from his line of ancestors but also from his own feats of bravery and skill. He told me that the children’s outfits are handed down and added to each generation….some of them are from before the White Man.

The four drummers sit in the middle and a hush descendes over the crowd as the singers take their places and the dancers form a circle 3 or 4 persons deep.There are no words to this music, but rather a feeling of human sound. You will feel the joy as well as the sorrow within your own heartbeat and that of the drum matching it. The circle moves counter clockwise with feet stamping, bells ringing, gourds shaking, and feathers flying. It appeared that each dancer had their own combination of steps, dips, and swirls as the dance took them inward. Suddenly, the Caller announced a change in direction.
A man explained "They must change direction…in life we all must learn how to adapt and adjust!"
That makes perfect sense!

"There’s a war being fought in the forests." The contract firefighter looked at me with tired brown eyes and a soot-streaked face. The once-yellow bag on his shoulder was mostly black and smelled as if I had submerged my nose underneath a burning campfire. "The problem is that I’m not talking about the fire! I’m talking about the inertia that has resulted from the fighting--environmentalists to loggers and all the groups in between."

Fighting forest fires is big business in this country. The 2003 federal budget is $2.6 billion and the projections are that the bills will exceed the $3.5 billion mark. In September, there were 2,705 firepeople in northern Montana being supported by our taxes. Can we do a stomach-stapling process to this obese monster in order to save this country from a financial stroke? The heart of the matter is more than the budget, as the priorities are environmental stability and jobs to support the local economy.

It’s interesting to note that when logging and grazing were allowed, the fees supported fire protection and the federal project broke even. I am not suggesting that the methods of logging used 20 years ago should be used today. Loggers have shown that sporadic and healthy thinning can be done. It is true that abuses have occurred when companies became greedy; or was it a result of their confusion? Today there are over 200 definitions of what an "old-growth forest" is. This spring, a Montana judge put a stop to logging as he requested, "Bring me ONE definition so we can proceed!" I hope that it doesn’t take hell to freeze over before a definition can surface, because logging families are now on temporary welfare, increasing the negative repercussions.

I recently heard some firemen using the words "bloke" and "mate." Why would the government pay travel expenses and living fees for a crew from Australia? The problem is that we are suffering from monster-sized fires across the entire western United States. Our own fire teams are stretched too thin. Montana has a phenomenal 22 fires currently raging that encompass more than 100 acres each. This is only one little speck on the United States map.

The policy of fire suppression from 1910 has caused layers of dead fuel and infringement of a lower canopy of opportunist trees that are choking the forest. One firefighter who travels across the country mapping fires told me that Glacier "is the worst forest I’ve been in for thick undergrowth!" In time, it will be thinned, regardless if it is through fire or human intervention, as an astounding 610,000 acres has burned this summer in Montana alone. The problem with the fire method is that the infernos are so huge that controlling them safely is impossible. Everyone agrees that fire in the forest is essential, but the environmental management methods are at debate.

Some groups are suggesting that limited cattle grazing and logging would keep the fuel levels down to manageable levels so allowed burns wouldn’t destroy too much animal habitat at each occurrence. It has been proven that when all parties play by the rules, this does result in healthier forests.

The opposite extremist groups (i.e., The National Forest Preservation Alliance and their cohorts) hold the view that the forest should be left alone and old logging roads should be reclaimed to the natural grade. The majority of people involved in this issue believe that the last position is very dangerous for humanity, animals, and the environment.

This group has been fighting for years to get the local people who live in the North Forty of Glacier Park to be removed by the government. Of course, the landowners were there before the park was established! The Roberts Fire in that area has been burning all summer and is being investigated for arson. Today, the talk in Columbia Falls rushes like a flash flood as people demand that "those terrorists" are brought to justice "or we’ll find ‘em and hang ‘em!" I would never underestimate the direct attitude and intent of any Montana resident! Proof is still forthcoming, and no group has claimed responsibility, but serious damage has been done as the hatred between the groups intensifies.

One ranger who asked not to be identified said, "those people sit in their cities far away and they think they can rationalize this problem. But they aren’t here fighting in the first line with 400 feet flames advancing on them and their skin getting scorched! They aren’t here to see us rescuing injured and displaced animals and the costs involved in cleanup (estimated to be $500,000 for northern Montana alone, which is $150,000 less than the Forest Department asked for). While the fires are still burning in Glacier National Park, an alliance has been made with the Wind River Bear Institute for impending rescues. Consider that a single male grizzly bear needs 364 miles of territory to live. With the Glacier and Bob fires, 1,784 bears could be displaced or dead. It’s astounding when you add all of the other critters of the forest to this tally. The poor marmot can’t outrun the fire, so it’s expected that they are all dead.

I have a logging friend in Eureka, Montana who’s also a volunteer fireman. Jay said, "I love this place! My father and my grandfather were loggers in this country and I hope that my children and grandchildren are too. Environmentalists need to understand that I don’t want to harm this country and lose my quality of living! This IS my backyard! Contract firemen come here for two weeks at a time, but I will be fighting this fire every day for months on end until the snow finally puts it out. It [the fire] doesn’t have to be this intense and out of control if we would be allowed to thin the forest."

The pendulum may be swinging now that Secretary of the Interior Bruce Babbitt has recently talked about forest fires in this country. "This is a historic moment," he stated, indicating that policy change would be forthcoming without really clarifying the government’s intent.

What we need is a judge with the wisdom of Solomon who can tell each specialty group to design the ultimate management plan, which they would then submit to a steering committee. This committee would hear and research each side and collect the best ideas from all of them. It will work if the committee is allowed judicial teeth to have final authority on their recommendations. I wish that the government would take a parental stance by sequestering this group and allowing no one to play until their homework is done!

While I hold my breath, it seemed like a good day to take a ride through my beloved Glacier National Park. It had rained the day before, so I knew that the dangerous columns of flames would be temporarily knocked down. The smoke was all the way into Kalispell over 25 miles away, giving a blue, filmy cast to the air. Driving northeast, the haze increased in intensity at Columbia Falls, resulting in itchy red eyes and a runny nose. I can’t imagine what asthmatics and the elderly have been doing to protect their health.
It was spooky during daylight inside the park. Lights were necessary as we drove through swirling smoke that hung low in the valley. Across Lake McDonald, the land was charred black, and a fire was burning over the next peak, staining the sky a peachy pink. We stopped at Lake McDonald Lodge and saw that temporary sprinklers had been set every 4 feet along the rooftops and bulldozers were on standby to make the earth barren if the fire encroached too close.
Climbing the road along Logan’s Loop, I stopped to look over the edge at the blackened world. Across the valley, the first dusting of snow was on the peaks, while the tree line was smoldering with curling smoke spirals. From the valley to the crest on my side, everything was destroyed. Later, I found out that this was a "no-stop zone" because the dead trees could have fallen and killed us. I know that the whole side of Logan’s could avalanche down the valley in a massive landslide, while the stream is certain to be toxic with ash all next year.

Why is this occuring? Lack of strong leadership and squabbling groups who aren’t committed to finding a resolution are the plague of millions of American and foreign travelers who visit here.

I cried in frustration, because we aren’t willing to reach a settlement that will benefit the majority rather than the minority.

I cried because international politics have enraptured us while important issues at home are ignored.

Most of all, I cried and found no comfort because I care for this place so much. If you do care, it doesn’t matter...if you remain silent.