Bill in Japan - traditional KYOTO

Kyoto features literally thousands of ancient and venerated temples, shrines, imperial villas and gardens. Even though Kyoto is now the seventh most populous city in Japan, with over 1.5 million inhabitants, and has some modern institutions and industrial areas, the personality of the city is quieter and seemingly more refined than that of Tokyo or Osaka. The citizens are justly proud of their contributions to Japanese art and culture. It is notable that about 20% of Japan's National Treasures and Important Cultural Properties are located in Kyoto Prefecture. Kyoto counts 17 World Heritage Sites (as of 1994), including To-ji, Kiyomizu-dera, Kinkaku-ji, Ginkaku-ji, Ryoan-ji, and Nijo-jo.

The popular Gion area, located east of the Kamo River in central Kyoto, is very active and features traditional crafts shops, theaters, and housing.

The Japanese are great admirers of the various gardens in and around Kyoto. The changing of the seasons are very popular with the locals, who enjoy snapping photos of the colorful cherry trees blossoming in April, or the leaves of maple trees settling into colorful symphonies in October and November.

If you enjoyed this section, please read my other sections on TOKYO and KYOTO.

Some of the beautiful images of Kyoto are courtesy of my good friend, Chicago architect Marius Ronnett. Our Japanese journey took place in the fall of 1999.

Quick Tips:

Some institutions or unique rooms are off-limits to the general public unless you obtain special permission to visit beforehand. This is the case with the Imperial Palace, and for the interiors on the grounds of Ginkaku-ji, for instance.

Check your local papers in Kyoto for special free events around the city. I attended a free "Koto" concert in the assembly hall of Avanti, a large department store just south of the Kyoto Station. The musicians played a variety of classical Japanese instruments to a captivated audience for about 90 minutes, and the price was right. This cultural experience included the act of signing a guest book, with the signature spaces appearing as vertical instead of horizontal lines (the Japanese write vertically and to the left).

Best Way To Get Around:

The modern subway is an excellent system with easy-to-read signage in Japanese and English. Because it has only two lines, the system has a somewhat limited coverage area. The network of buses is good, but the signs are mostly in Japanese. Traffic on the streets can be daunting, slowing everybody down. You can buy a handy transportation pass good for one or two days, good for unlimited rides on the two metro lines and most city buses. The two-day pass is not cheap (2000 yen) so get one at a subway station and have it activated there if you think you will ride the public transportation a lot.

My friend rented a bicycle, or as he put it he "bought" the bicycle and had to return it to the shop for a qualified refund. The local parks have nice paths for enjoyable bike riding, but wear a hat and/or gloves if you are cycling in the cooler months.

This popular temple in the East Higashiyama district was originally built in 798. Many of the present structures on this dramatically steep hillside setting date from 1633, and their images are now synonymous with the city of Kyoto. Popular photography books and glossy postcard sets depict the sturdy temple structures in all seasons, day and night, to capture their interplay with the ever-changing natural surroundings.

I visited the complex during the day and also during a special night opening. The daytime was certainly crowded enough, but during the nighttime seemingly every person in Japan was in line trying to enter the complex. There always seems to be a controlled carnival atmosphere here, with worshippers bowing to the gods and photographers acknowledging the wonderful details and scenery. The main hall has a wide wooden veranda that is a popular viewing platform for panoramic views of the city below. 139 giant pillars, anchoring it onto the steep slope, prop up part of the main hall. The reddish-orange color draws attention to the lofty pagoda.

The best way to approach the temple is by walking down the Kiyomizu-zaka, a somewhat touristy but fun little street with shops selling ceramics, religious souvenirs, and alluring snacks. There are other little streets and teapot lanes branching off from Kiyomizu-zaka. You are bound to run into shopkeepers selling "yatsuhashi", triangular sweets made from bean paste. Feel free to have a small sample of this local specialty. A cool and slightly bitter treat is green tea ice cream, usually in a soft serve cone format and sometimes swirled with vanilla flavor.

The simple rock garden of Ryoan-ji is regarded as Japan's most famous "kare sansui" or dry garden of this category (the Daihi-ji Zen monastery also has a nice dry garden). A visit here is a quiet, contemplative experience, even if you are perched on the edge of a wooden veranda along with dozens of other curious visitors. It was probably created around 1450 as the complex was converted to a Zen temple, although it was "rediscovered" in the 1930's and has risen in popularity ever since. The mornings are usually less crowded if you seek a slightly more intimate experience at the garden.

The walled rock garden has a rectangular perimeter, with trees acting as a natural backdrop. There are fifteen stones of various sizes and shapes arranged into several clusters amongst a pit of whitish raked sand (the number "15" represents completeness in Buddhism). Some of the stones are covered by a bit of green moss. The stones have been placed in such a way that it is impossible (except by overhead view) to see all fifteen stones at one time, as one may be "hiding" behind another from certain vantage points. It is believed that the rock garden is a "riddle" created by the Zen masters to test and enlighten their students. It is like a Zen Rorschach test to see what the garden means to you and what it appears to represent to you. For the standard viewer, this all looks like just a bunch of rocks, but it is still interesting to enter the Zen thought process just a wee bit.

The main building of the temple is called the Kuri, which plays second fiddle to the dry garden. Look for the Tsukubai, a stone water basin inscribed with a significant Zen thought: "I learn only to be contented". The accompanying lake-garden is called Kyoyochi Pond and actually dates back to the 12th Century in one form or another. There is a small restaurant next to the pond.

The impressive temple buildings and grounds of Kinkaku-ji are always packed with immense hordes of Japanese tourists. The Temple of the Golden Pavilion has a powerful sheen that really pounces upon you, as its reflection doubles off from the adjacent Kyoko-chi "Mirror Pond". Pillars that extend over the pond support the structure. Many large and small rock "islands" jut up from the pond. An unobtrusive fence rings the pond, but it is also usually encircled with a human trail of photographers and their subjects, all posing with the glittering gold icon in their collective background.

Originally called Shariden and now with the more formal name of Rokuon-ji Temple, the original Kinkaku-ji was built in 1394 as part of a retirement villa for a former Shogun, who was an enthusiast of Chinese culture. After his death, the complex was converted into a Zen temple. The pavilion was set ablaze by a disgruntled monk in 1950, but it was completely rebuilt by 1955. The pavilion was regilded with a new coating of gold leaf in 1987. The pavilion has three levels, each with a different architectural style. The second and third levels of the pavilion shimmer with a layer of gold leaf over Japanese lacquer. Originally, only the ceiling of the third floor had the gold coating. A phoenix figure and a shingle roof top the pavilion.

The natural colors of the surrounding gardens and the hills of Kitayama contrast with the "unreal" golden tone of the pavilion, which looks like a huge foil-wrapped piece of chocolate. Once you walk past the Golden Pavilion and Mirror Pond, you will encounter another smaller pond, surrounding an island with a small stone pagoda. You will also spot the Sekka-tei, a classic teahouse that was restored in 1997.

Kinkaku-ji is located in the northwest part of Kyoto. It is accessible by several city bus lines, but it is a fair distance from the nearest subway station.

The name Ginkaku-ji automatically links it to its more glamorous cousin Kinkaku-ji. On the surface, Ginkaku-ji fares poorly in this comparison. After all, Ginkaku-ji never received a layer of silver as had been intended at one time or another. Nevertheless, Ginkaku-ji is part of a murderers row of wonderful temples along the East Higashiyama area of Kyoto that draws huge crowds of Japanese tourists and worshippers.

The formal name of this temple is Higashiyama Jishoji, which became a Zen temple in 1432. The entrance is along a path framed with tall manicured hedges atop rock and bamboo walls. The dramatic landscape continues with a lovely pond garden, and sculpted sand that looks like mountains (one particular mound is said to mimic Mt. Fuji). Note the way the picturesque rooftops of the buildings intermingle with the surrounding treetops.

The main focus of this complex is the two-story Kannonden, the so-called Temple of the Silver Pavilion. In a way, it is better this way without any glossy paint job. The pavilion has a quiet simplicity that is not to be found at the Golden Pavilion of Kinkaku-ji. The other original building in the complex is the Tougudo. Both the Kannonden and the Tougudo are recognized as "National Treasures" in Japan. The interiors are off-limits to tourists, but you can gain special admittance on occasion if you apply in advance.

This "white castle" was constructed from 1603 to 1626 as the powerful centerpiece and opulent residence of the Shogun Tokugawa Ieyasu in Kyoto. Its whitewashed stone walls, corner watchtowers with ornate roof eaves, and outer moat make quite an impression on the first-time visitor, a display of political power and wealth that was designed to impress anyone into obedience. It eventually faded into disrepair as the center of power shifted to Tokyo, and it was rehabilitated as a city of Kyoto institution in 1939.

An interesting way to get a feel of the castle is to walk around the perimeter of the complex, and you will see the gates on each side along with the complete outer moat surrounding the grounds. Get an impression of the colorful grounds and gardens. You will enter Nijo-jo through the Kara-mon or "Chinese Gate" along the east side on Horikawa-dori. Pick up an informative and free mini-guide upon admission to the castle.

You will encounter the Ninomaru Palace, an intricately designed complex of five buildings aligned in an offset manner. The palace has 33 rooms and many chambers and covered corridors. The massive roofs are beautifully detailed and are to be admired in their own right. The interiors are colorfully decorated with carvings and screen paintings by the Kano school of artists. Your tour of the interiors (especially the Ohiroma or Great Hall) is enhanced by costumed mannequins representing the Shogun, his staff, and assorted visitors bowing to the host. The series of rooms are decorated to reflect each room's level of importance and the status of the people visiting the rooms. The outer rooms have flashier images of fierce animals to impress low-ranking individuals. The inner rooms, reserved for important lords waiting for an audience with the Shogun, are more subtly decorated with birds and landscapes. You may encounter one of the "nightingale" floors, which were originally constructed to squeak in case unwanted intruders (tourists?) were to wander along.

There is a nice lake-garden facing the Ninomaru Palace. The Honmaru Palace is the inner palace within the inner moat. It was destroyed in 1788 and replaced by a prince's residence transferred from the Kyoto Imperial Palace in 1893. This inner palace is open to the public in the fall for special exhibit.

This is one of the two original temples built within Kyoto in 794, and it is the only one still remaining. Its location southwest of the main Kyoto Station is seemingly cutoff from the rest of the present-day city by assorted railway tracks and roads, taking away a bit from the area's charm. To-ji also has the more formal name of Kyo-o-gokokuji Temple.

You enter the temple complex through the Nan-Daimon (South) gate. The most visually dominant building is the five-story pagoda, a dark-colored structure that is the tallest pagoda in Japan at 184 feet in height. It was constructed in 826 and was reconstructed in 1644.

Although the pagoda is initially more noticeable, the Ko-do (Lecture Hall) and Kon-do (Main Hall) are regarded as more culturally significant because of the Esoteric Buddhist treasures they contain. The reddish Ko-do contains 21 religious and mystical statues placed in a special alignment, called the "Karman Mandala". The less ornate Kon-do, the largest building of To-ji, was reconstructed in 1603. It is of a wooden construction, and has a high but dark interior. The Kon-do contains the figures of Yakushi Nyorai, the Buddha of physical and spiritual being, flanked by his two assistants, Nikko and Gakko. These revered figures were created by artisans about four centuries ago. The throne of the central buddha is surrounded by figures of twelve sacred generals.

The older Miei-do (Founder's Hall) and more modern Homotsu-kan are other buildings within the complex that house other priceless figures, paintings and treasures. The Kon-do, Miei-do, and Pagoda are listed as National Treasures in Japan. The Ko-do is recognized as an Important Cultural Property of Japan. The 21st of each month is a popular day for pilgrims as well as visitors, as this is the date of To-ji's monthly flea market.

This unusually narrow and long temple (394 feet in length) is officially called Rengeo-in. It was built in 1164 and reconstructed in 1266.

The name "Sanjusan" means 33, and this number has a mystical importance in the building, as there are 33 spaces between the supporting columns. There is one large figure of Kannon, the Goddess of Mercy with a thousand hands that is revered as a National Treasure in Japan. This six-foot tall central figure is flanked by a cavalry of 1000 smaller figures of Kannon, buddha sculptures all golden and wooden and crammed into the hall. Walk down the hall and you will note that the buddha figures are repetitive, but not completely identical. These peaceful figures are fronted and "protected" by a line of 28 fierce-looking guardian deities. You may see a few spider webs strewn about some of the dusty, elegant figures in the dimly lit hall.

There is an archery field in the rear of the unassuming building, which seems appropriate alongside a long narrow building. There are special archery tournaments held during annual festive occasions.

Kyoto has an innumerable number of beautiful and important temples, making it one of the cultural meccas of Japan. A good number of them are concentrated along the "Path of Philosophy" in the eastern part of Kyoto. The path is along the Sosui Canal and is lined with cherry, maple and ginko trees. There is no vehicular traffic, but the days of a peaceful stroll seem like ancient history as the path is usually teeming with swarms of tourists and pilgrims. The following listings generally run from north to south along or near the path.

South of the Ginkaku-ji, which houses the Temple of the Silver Pavilion, is the Honen-in Temple, which usually has free admission.

The Heian Jingu Shrine, built in 1895, is one of the more popular of the "newer" temples. Located in Okazaki Park, it is a smaller and more modern interpretation of the original Kyoto Imperial Palace. Its fiery orange-red elements, especially its main torii gate, are very distinctive. The rear garden is also lovely.

The Eikan-do Temple, also known as the Zenrin-ji, is a 16th Century reconstruction of the original. A climb up the temple's pagoda is a treat here.

The Nanzen-ji Temple is the headquarters of the Rinzai sect of Zen Buddhism. The eclectic structures are part of a former villa. The San-mon (triple gate), dating from 1628, offers excellent top-level views of Kyoto.

The Chion-in Temple, the headquarters of the Jodo sect, is one of the largest temples in Japan. Dating from the year 1234, the complex has a giant west gate (built 1619-1641) with an appropriately scaled staircase. This San-mon gate has the height of 79 feet, one of the largest gates. In line with the scale of the project, it has the largest bell in a Japanese temple. It is said that it takes the collective strength of 17 monks to properly ring this bell!

The Yasaka Shrine is a popular shrine, mainly because it is open 24 hours and is located not far from the busy Gion district.

Nara preceded Kyoto as the capital of Japan (710-784), and it is regarded as the cradle of Japanese civilization, culture, religion and the arts. Nara is 28 miles south of Kyoto, so this is an easy day trip from Kyoto by train. However, you can spend more time here because it is like a mini-Kyoto, with plenty of interesting temples to visit. Nara is the home of the world's oldest existing wooden building (Horyuji Temple), the world's largest wooden structure (the Great Buddha Hall at Todai-ji) and Japan's largest bronze statue (the Vairocana Buddha at Todai-ji). The latter two are celebrated as National Treasures of Japan.

If you come into Nara for the day, you will probably pass the Three-Story Pagoda and Five-Story Pagoda in the center of town. Continue walking east to visit Nara-koen, otherwise appropriately nicknamed Deer Park. This area was a wasteland until it was cultivated into a grassy park. A population of about 1000 deer roams about the park, docile as can be. They are either munching on the grass or looking for food handouts from visiting tourists. The deer will offer plenty of photo opportunities for warm fuzzy shots of them posing in front of temples, ponds, trees and mountains.

Probably the most famous temple in Nara is Todai-ji, and with good reason. This magnificent complex is set within the heart of Nara-koen. You will probably go through the Nandai-mon (Great Southern Gate), which was rebuilt during the 13th Century. Then you will encounter the huge Great Buddha Hall, which also has the names Kon-do or Daibutsu-den. This is the largest wooden building in the world, with a width of 187 feet, depth of 166 feet, and height of 160 feet. The original building was constructed starting in 745 with a scale even larger than the present-day hall. The current building, rebuilt in 1709, is the "smaller" third version, as fires desecrated the earlier two versions. As the name suggests, the building houses the Vairocana Buddha, Japan's largest bronze statue with a height of 49 feet and a weight over 450 tons. Consecrated in 752, it has suffered damage due to earthquake and fire over the years. Little of the current statue is original, but nevertheless the Buddha figure is still impressive with its gold plating.

The most curious element of the Great Buddha Hall is a slot in an interior column located at ground level. Legend has it that if a person can crawl through this tiny slot of space (about a foot wide), then that person is destined to reach paradise. I spotted lots of little (emphasis on the "little") kids crawling through the column slot as if they were at some playground.