Be Spoiled in an Unspoiled Madeira

If you also like the combination of back-to-nature during the day and elegant at night, you’ll love Madeira.

Imagine hydrangea, exotic bird of paradise plants and countless others just blooming in profusion. Walking along Madeira’s extensive levada (irrigation channel) system was like walking through the Garden of Eden (except for the heights!)

We stayed at two splendid resorts: Reid’s Palace and the Royal Savoy. We definitely recommend both as luxurious experiences. And we dined at a variety of outstanding restaurants, in and out of the hotels.

We enjoyed so many things on Madeira, but a visit to the Blandy Wine Lodge, where we learned about (and tasted!) Madeira wine, was a highlight, as was our visit to Central Market, to see how the locals shop—and relax at a rousing game of cards.

Best of all was meeting the people and experiencing their zest for life. Photographing a bunch of exuberant little girls "who wanted to be famous," was a real treat for me. They were natural models, knowing how to come alive before a camera.

And, there was dancing in the streets when Brasil won the World Cup, and we were happy to be a part of it.

Quick Tips:

Best Way To Get Around:

Actually, Madeira is not just one island, but an archipelago. It consists of Madeira, the main island, which is laden with tropical flowers and other plants, and, in Funchal, the capital, you’ll find everything from a casino to cultural museums and more parks. Other than swimming in the ocean, however, it does not have beaches. You have to go to neighboring island Porto Santo for that. (Make advance reservations once you get here so you don’t miss it as we did.) Two other islands, the Desertas, are uninhabited wildlife sanctuaries.

We found that the best way to get around was to take tours, taxis and walk. We don’t like driving in mountainous countries with hairpin turns that cling to the mountainside, so we were happy to leave that to more experienced drivers so we could concentrate on the scenery.

With driving, there are options: you can take "the fast way," through the extensive system of tunnels or "the long way," and enjoy the scenery. Most people like a combination of the two.

Definitively wear good walking shoes because, in the artistically cobbled streets in town or out in the wilderness, you’ll need them.

Reid’s Palace: An Island within an Island

Old Money. It’s the phrase we use when we want to describe classic surroundings impeccably good taste and an old-world elegance and style that is classically and rich and stylishly comfortable, yet never flashy.

This is exactly the lovely ambiance that we savored at Five-Star Reid’s Palace Hotel in Funchal, Madeira, Portugal.

Reid’s has been here for over 100 years, catering to such notables as George Bernard Shaw and Margaret Thatcher. It’s only natural: the service here sets the standard for others: it’s warm and friendly and helpful, but never intrusive.

The rooms are mini sanctuaries. As we sit on the balcony of room 940 and relax in the hotel’s snuggly white robes, we look out as far as we can see to an unending Atlantic Ocean to see impressive cruise ships and tiny fishing boats.

But "room" hardly describes our accommodations; actually it is a spacious junior suite with a full closet conveniently located in the bathroom area.

You could spend weeks here at Reid’s, enjoying its lush ten-acre grounds, numerous niches that beg you to sit and relax, as well as a variety of gourmet dining experiences that you’ll long remember after the taste has gone.

As we entered the new Royal Savoy Resort, near downtown Funchal, Madeira, we felt we had entered the home of an international traveler who has style and taste. Throughout this expansive complex that overlooks the Atlantic Ocean, there is a subtle South African theme, honoring heroic Portuguese navigators who bravely explored the African coast.

The decorator is an artist blending textures and colors; furniture, rugs and native art and antiques to create not a touristy African look, but a meaningful integrated atmosphere that’s restful, yet exotic. I make notes to try to adapt some of the techniques to my home in Virginia to capture this eclectic feeling—and to remember our memorable stay here.

The Royal Savoy’s stylish public areas are just the beginning. Step into one of their 162 spacious suites (all with kitchen!), and you’ll find new meaning in the word elegance. Imagine two people in a suite with a huge bedroom, a living room, a dining room, and two bathrooms. We especially enjoyed the spacious, extremely private balcony (with a wicker table and 4 chairs and two chaise lounges) overlooking the Bay of Funchal. We enjoyed dinner here one evening as we watched a spectacular fireworks display over the Bay. Believe me, it was tough to tear ourselves away from this setting, but, we did come to Madeira to learn about the rest of the island as well!

The brand new Royal Savoy Resort has a footbridge to the older Savoy Hotel, so, you really get the amenities of the two hotels combined. As we went from one to the other, we saw people play shufferboard and moving big chess pieces. While we admired the Savoy’s lush gardens, including ancient olive trees, set in a field of fragrant lavender, and the soothing sound of the water cascade, we were so busy seeing Madeira itself that we weren’t able to make use of the indoor heated swimming pool, gym and sauna, or the sundeck. Next time.

And, speaking of next time, in order to save time, we would have set up more day trips with the hotel concierge. We would have saved a lot of time and would have been able to see more. But that’s why we write travel journals, isn’t it? To help the next person who visits get even more out of their visit.

With Madeira’s lush, sub-tropical climate, I knew its famous Central Market (Mercado dos Lavradores) in Funchal would be a cornucopia of foods.

I wasn’t disappointed. Long black espada and huge tuna fish dominated the lower level, while in the middle and upper levels, tables of individual stall holders overflowed with a profusion of tomatoes, strawberries, cherries, carrots, and apricots. Vendors in native dress sold a multicolor of freshly cut flowers.

The best time to visit is on a Saturday. It was fun to walk through the aisles and shop with the locals as they purchased everything from flowers and fruits to colorful tote bags. It was even better to climb the stairs to the second floor, to see the other stalls and look down on the lively action. The market itself is an architectural gem, built in 1941, and is decorated with Azulejos, so much a part of Portugal’s culture.

But shopping was only part of the fun of being here on market day. Just as interesting was seeing men sit on park benches totally absorbed in their intense game. They would slap down cards to top their opponent as other men hovered over the game to watch the action.

Recently, my husband and I luxuriated in the new Royal Savoy Hotel in Funchal, Madeira, just off the coast of Portugal. In the hotel complex, which includes the original Savoy Hotel, we found plenty of dining options, including four restaurants, three solarium cafes and four bars.

Our favorite is The Armada Restaurant, opened in February of 2002. Our table (number 52) is at a glass wall overlooking the ocean front solarium and, past the palm trees, the Bay of Funchal. It is almost dusk, and we watch small fishing boats make their way out into the Atlantic as they have done for centuries. We listen to the sound of the waterfall from the reception area, as well as soft piano music, while, on our table two small blue votive candles flicker.

Recently, my husband and I luxuriated in the new Royal Savoy Hotel in Funchal, Madeira, just off the coast of Portugal. In the hotel complex, which includes the original Savoy Hotel, we found plenty of dining options, including four restaurants, three solarium cafes and four bars.

Our favorite is The Armada Restaurant, opened in February of 2002. Our table (number 52) is at a glass wall overlooking the ocean front solarium and, past the palm trees, the Bay of Funchal. It is almost dusk, and we watch small fishing boats make their way out into the Atlantic as they have done for centuries. We listen to the sound of the waterfall from the reception area, as well as soft piano music, while, on our table two small blue votive candles flicker.

We take a while to make our selection because the culinary offerings are all tempting and because the menu tells a story. It carries out the Portuguese navigation theme, according to Assistant Food and Beverage Manger Ivone Marques, who helped create it.

It was such a great menu that we asked Ivone how it came about. She started working on all the menus for the Royal Savoy around mid January she says. The dishes for the Armada Menu had already been made by Royal Savoy Chef, Chef Stephane Denolf (the one that prepared our meal).

"During this process, there were always Meal Tasting Sessions with our General Manager, Mr. Lars, and our Food and Beverage Director, Mr Arlindo, where ideas and opinions were exchanged with the chefs and also photos were taken," she says. "After all the dishes were finished, I had to put it all together and create a menu! There were various designs, but with the help of Mr Lars, Mr Arlindo and the Chefs I was able to come up with the final menu."

After reading history books about Portuguese navigation that her manager gave her, Ivone selected quotes that she thought were important and, after discussion by the management team, they were added to the menu.

We are amused, for example, at one menu entry--a timeless quote of an 18th century sea captain who gives advice to fellow navigators:

"And if by chance you make a landfall on the shores of another sea in a far country inhabited by savages and barbarians, remember you this: the greatest danger and the surest hope lies not with fires and arrows, but in the quicksilver hearts of men."

We don’t feel rushed to place our order, but sense that we can relax and read about these journeys as we enjoy the exploratory ambiance.

It’s difficult to make a selection because so many choices sound delicious in this restaurant that features an "East Meets West" theme. But I select the Sautéed Chicken in Red Curry Sauce, served with Glass Noodles ($16 Euro) and my husband goes for the Five Spice Honey Duck Breast Served with Eggplant Chutney and Grilled Apple ($18 Euro).

Before long, our meals arrive, served on stylish square ones that showcase the artistic presentation of the food. The chef, we agree, is as much an artist as the interior designer. And, like the decorator, it’s just more than a superficial artistry. "It’s the best duck I’ve ever eaten," my husband says as his eyes widen. "And it’s done to perfection."

My chicken dish is a perfectly flavoured and served on noodles that have al dente written all over them.

The desserts, including Captain’s Favorite, Alcohol Marinated Fruit with Madeira Honey Cake (a specialty of the Island) and Vanilla Ice Cream, are quite tempting, but we decide on a glass of Bual Madeira.

We toast each other as we have done for more than 35 years now and slowly sip our Bual. It’s great to be in Madeira and at The Royal Savoy’s Armada, where we made yet another culinary memory as we dine around the world.

The Royal Savoy and The Armada Restaurant is located at 9004-542 Avenida do Infante, Funchal, Madeira, and can be reached at: www.savoyresort.com; savoy.reservation@netmadeira.com; Tel: (351) 291 213 000

With balmy breezes from the Atlantic and a sub-tropical climate, Madeira is, indeed, an island paradise. Its Funchal is modern and offers all the amenities you could want, yet the Maderian countryside is rugged and quaint. The blending of the old with the new is one of the reasons we like this island so much.

We were particularly impressed with this combination after we visited Madeira’s 61-year old Central Market. Just up the street, at the Global Net Café, owned by Norwegian-born Trude Stien and Maderian Antonio Basilio, we were able to not only surf the Internet and stay in touch with colleagues, friends and family, but do so in an incredibly modern setting for the equivalent of $2.50 per hour. And there’s more.

We were good this time because we had just had lunch. We drank only bottled water but, if we had wanted to, we could also have purchased food and drink, sipping Maderian wine and savoring Norwegian waffles and local pastries as we surfed.

In addition, the Global Net Café is multi-lingual, offering services in English, Scandinavian, Spanish and Portuguese. And, there a book and magazine exchange.

So when you visit the Market, be certain to check out the Global Net Café. It's located at Rua do Hospital Velho, n 25 in Funchal, Madeira Phone 351 291 280671 and, naturally, you can reach them at globalnetcafe@mail.net4b.pt

Whenever we visit a new destination, we always like to try the local wines. We don’t compare them to wines from other places; we just appreciate them for themselves.

Although the island is well-known for its Madeira, a fortified wine that ranges from dry to dessert sweet, in recent years, its white, and especially red, table wines have become increasingly popular with discerning diners.

We especially enjoyed the wines of the Enxurros Winery and the young Vinho Verde it produces. They are fresh, fruity, and have a pleasant effervescence.

With the establishment of the Madeira Wine Cooperative in 1990, more individual farmers will be able to develop their table wines. The Winery building, constructed in 1999, provides viticulture study and services and also gives individual farmers a place where they can develop their wines. While the farmers supply the grapes, bottles, corks, and labels, this government service winery then produces the wine and bottles it for them.

As a result, look to Portugal to see some interesting things happening in the production of red and white wines as well.