Touring Northeastern South Dakota

Nicollet Tower, Redlin Art Center, Saks Restaurant, Council Rocks

Quick Tips:

Fly to Aberdeen, South Dakota and rent a car.

Best Way To Get Around:

Driving is the best way to get around.

Eat lunch at the Perkins Restaurant on Highway 212 at the junction with Highway 81. You'll find it across the parking lot from a forty-foot cowboy statue. He stands there with his saddle in hand, staring into the distance. No doubt his horse has abandoned him at a full gallop.

Perkins' food is consistently good. The attendants are gracious and friendly. You are greeted by a hostess who sits you amid spacious tables. She works behind a counter that sells take-out pies and pastries. Lunch here will leave you with a welcome taste in your mouth after punishing your feet walking through the Terry Redlin Art Center. Fresh in-story bakery provides pies and pastries to stop the grumbling of almost any nagging child or ravenous adult. Eat the goods here or take them home. Telephone 605-882-3700

Saks Restaurant is a splendid place to eat in a comfortable setting out here on the prairie.

It is the place to dine in Redfield, South Dakota a one traffic light town. This place is similar to many prairie towns created by the arrival of the railroad, but with a difference. It began life as a railroad town where the roundhouse was located at the junction of two rail lines. The roundhouse served to rotate the engine to change directions of the train. Redfield is now a center for Pheasant hunting and calls itself The Pheasant Capitol of the World. Near the old railroad station where U.S. Highway 281 departs Highway 212 and heads south is Saks Restaurant, an excellent location to meet and greet Redfield natives. This dining oasis is a pleasant place to have lunch way out here on the prairie. Entering Saks you find a bubbling fountain to your right, its arrangement the epitome of subdued elegance. Looking straight ahead to the counter behind which smiles a friendly hostess, you see the wall covered with hanging photos of the proprietor, Stan Schultz. The pictures are large color prints of scenes when Schultz was in the movies, e.g., Dancing With Wolves. The hostess will seat you in a spacious dining room interrupted by waist-high partitions that give you a sense of intimacy. You can still look around and observe who else is in attendance. Since everyone knows everyone else in Redfield, this renders the restaurant's atmosphere home-like. You will notice the woodwork is first rate, right up there with pretentious restaurants on Fifth Avenue in New York city. Mr. Terry Taylor does carpentry work in no other manner. The carpenter is the husband of Kathleen Taylor, the Redfield novelist. She is the author of Funeral Food, Sex and Salmonella, The Hotel South Dakota, Mourning Shift and Foreign Body. Cold Front is scheduled for publication in October 2000. All are set in the mythical town of Delphi, which keeps local readers guessing where it really is located. No doubt about it, Taylor knows the Redfield area and its people very well.

To visit Council Rock, go north of Redfield, South Dakota three miles on Highway 281, turn right on County Road 15, called Two Bridges Road. Cross the railroad tracks and a bridge over the James River. Up the hill on the right is a house. There is where Council Rock is now located. Originally it was 300 feet north across the road from its present location which is in the yard of the county's first school house. Long years before the steam engine was developed or settlers came to this territory, the area three or four miles north of Redfield, South Dakota was an important Indian village. Nearby atop the highest hill was a circle of stones that served as a meeting place for all the tribes. Here is where chiefs met to hash out differences and make tribal policy. It was similar to Congress meeting in Washington, D.C. Early surveyors called it the Indian Capitol of Dakotas. Today it is called Council Rock. It is not difficult to find, notwithstanding many Redfield residents are unsure of its exact location

To visit Two Bridges Llama Ranch, go north of Redfield, South Dakota three miles, turn right on County Road 15 (Two Bridges Road), cross the railroad tracks and river, go past the small house on the hill a half mile and turn down a long driveway.

In addition to seeing a working llama ranch, you will see a plethora of Indian artifacts. The owners sell llamas as pets and for breeding stock. Wool is taken from the llamas by combing, not shearing.

The ranch owner has a pickup truck full of stone axes and three milk buckets full of arrowheads found on the property. The Sioux had a butchering ground near their village. One artifact of particular interest is a stone three inches thick and oval shaped. It is about two feet long by eighteen inches across and concave. The owner turned it up while cultivating his field and found a round stone five inches diameter a couple of feet away. This combination was evidently used to grind or pound food.

He has so many stone axes on the place that he uses them as a border for his flower garden. They are all axes that were discarded by the Sioux. Over the years as the stone axes became dull the Indians made a new ax. There was no practical way to sharpen the old one.

Arrowheads found strewn about are usually slightly misshapen, having been tossed aside while chipping a new one. A single arrowhead found in isolation in perfect shape was probably launched and missed its target.

The owner says all the artifacts collected on the property were exposed on top of the ground following a heavy rain or when snow melted in the spring. This former butchering ground would be a fertile field for exploration by archeologists or an interested University. All the area in and around Redfield should be examined to learn what we can about how mankind has survived in this region.

Open year round.
Mail: Two Bridges Llamas, RR2, Box 110, Redfield, SD 57469-9308.
Telephone: Wilbur Dvorak, Alan & Kathy Maddox 605-472-0316, 605-472-1548, or Randy & Carol Maddox 605-472-3339.

There is a neat, clean little village half a mile south of Highway 212 where it makes a long curve ten miles east of Redfield. It is one of those towns in this region where cultivated fields begin at the edge of unfenced backyards, a very quiet place with single-family dwellings. You can hear the crickets snoring. No howling dogs break the peace. Approaching it you see one tall landmark, the South Dakota Wheat Grower's Association grain elevator sitting alongside the old railroad tracks. The railroad brought the elevator and town into being, then departed. Now grain is hauled away by eighteen wheel, semi-trailer trucks.

One of the oldest structures in the village is a barbershop built in 1902 as a bank. Some time after the bank failed; it became a beverage package store selling beer, wine and whiskey. This fifteen feet by twenty feet little building is painted white and is snuggled against a tree much taller than it is. The tree seems to be standing as a sentinel over its historic old friend. One window with no curtain stares out the front the traditional barber pole is to the left of the window. Above that, centered on front of the building is a sign that says it is Deanƒ­s Barber Shop. There on the right side is the entrance door. First thing you notice upon entering is the floor. It is buckled and raised dramatically in the center and slopes off to the right. The floor is made of three-inch wide hardwood strips and looks like it was polished years ago with tobacco juice stomped in by cowboy boots. There are six modern waiting chairs with half a dozen antique folding wooden chairs leaning against the wall, but only one barber chair. Dean Robinson runs a one-man operation, cutting hair and sweeping up, taking out the trash and entertaining visitors. There is no shoeshine stand. Looking at the far back wall you see a counter with shelves that were used when it was a beverage store. Now barber oils and ointments desired by customers rest there.

Robinson is a slender, muscular man in his 60s with a quick smile and a good sense of humor. He still has a full head of naturally curly hair and wears cowboy boots. Robinson has been cutting hair for a long time and farmed until recently. Now he only barbers, working two days a week during winters. All spring and summer the place is not open in the daytime. You have to wait until dark to get a haircut, probably because his clientele are farmers who work during the day. Regarding peace and quiet, with no howling dogs, one waiting customer in the barbershop said, 'Well, perhaps some of them hum.'

Exiting I-29 and joining U.S. Highway 212 westbound, you will find the Redlin Art Center close by on the south side of the the highway. It is Watertown, South Dakota's proudest sight to see, recommended to all tourists and natives alike. Here is how the center came into being. It is said as a young man Terry Redlin wanted to be a Forest Ranger, loved animals and wanted to work in the outdoors. Then one day he took his first ride on a motorcycle, on the back with a friend. There was a crash and his legs were crippled. This put a stop to any thought of being a Forest Ranger and he studied to be an artist. Redlin succeeded mightily as an artist and was granted great acclaim by the art world. His work sold easily and he wanted to share his good fortune with humanity. Redlin decided to build and donate an art center to his hometown, Watertown, South Dakota. One hundred original Redlin paintings are on display in the Redlin Art Center. The gift shop has prints for sale, for a couple hundred dollars. Smaller ones are in the fifty to seventy-five dollar range. Trinkets, knickknacks and books are also available. There is a guided tour and a theater presentation. When you visit the center you find an impressive building. Inside you get a singular impression of the paintings. They are all the same, like those bullfighter scenes on velvet sold on the streets just across the Rio Grande River in Mexico. American tourists buy those velvet prints to prove they been there. What you see in Redlin's work is a captivating blend of reds that form stupendous sunsets. The sun is always setting in his paintings. There are indigenous South Dakota animals in all the paintings, pheasants taking flight, deer peering from the woods, ducks and geese sitting or just taking flight. All this seems to represent Terry Redlin's love of the outdoors and his feeling of impending doom. The sun did set in his life and darkness came upon his dream of ever being a Forest Ranger. The Art Center has South Dakota's only planetarium. Telephone 605-882-3877, hours 8am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-5pm Sat, 12-5pm Sun. Free admission.

Just over the rainbow is where you'll find Aberdeen's magical theme park - Storybook Land!

Dorothy, Toto, the Scarecrow, Tin Man, and Cowardly Lion will all greet you as you begin your journey down the Yellow Brick Road. Enter a land of enchantment that includes over 60 larger than life exhibits. Climb aboard Captain Hook's Ship, visit the animals at Old MacDonald's Farm, but whatever you do, don't get lost in the maze! A ride around the park on the Storybook Land Express is always a hit.

L. Frank Baum, noted author and resident of Aberdeen from 1888 to 1891, penned the timeless children's classic - The Wizard of Oz. The theme, settings and characters from the Wizard of Oz provided the inspiration for Aberdeen's newest theme park - Land of Oz. The ten-acre park is located just northwest of Storybook Land and features a farmstead area with Dorothy's house, children's petting zoo, Munchkin Land (plaza area with running stream), Scarecrow's house, Tin Man's house, Wicked Witch Castle, and Emerald City.

Bring the entire family and take in one of the movies shown on select summer evenings in Sleeping Beauty's Castle, or enjoy a children's theatre production. Whatever your age, you'll enjoy the sights and sounds of Storybook Land and Land of Oz!

A couple dozen miles west of Sisseton, South Dakota is historic old Fort Sisseton which is still standing. When first constructed in 1864 it was called Fort Wadsworth and renamed Fort Sisseton in 1876, taking the name of the local Indian tribe.

To get to the fort from I-29, take U.S. Highway 12 west about 24 miles, then Highways 25 and 73 north about another 24 miles. Or, from I-29 take Highway 10 west about 26 miles, then Highway 73 south about 5 miles.

Walk the grounds where the officers' quarters, stone barracks, powder magazine, guard house, and other buildings remain at frontier Fort Sisseton. This 1864 fort, atop the Coteau des Prairies (or hills of the prairies), is a rare reminder of the western frontier. The fort's name comes from the nearby Sisseton Indian Tribe, and it is now a picturesque state park that unfolds the area's history.

Facilities at a Glance -- Visitor Center and Interpretive Displays, Campground with 15 Campsites , Boat Ramp, Comfort Stations, Picnic Area, Shelter with kitchen, Guided Walking Tour.

When -- Fort Sisseton Visitor Center is open daily, June-August. The park is open all year. Park fee. The Fort Sisseton Festival, held the first full weekend in June, is a rendezvous featuring cavalry, fiddlers, square dancing, draft horse pulling, tomahawk throwing, a melodrama, and other excitement. Admission to the Festival.

Hans and Magnus Stavig emigrated from Norway to Sisseton, South Dakota and built an elegant three-story Victorian home in 1916. It has a wrap-around porch and a splendid corner tower. It is an historic artifact of a bygone era. Polished wood floors with glass and oak woodwork and ten bedrooms housed the family and other immigrants recently arrived. The Stavig home became a Museum bequeathed to Roberts County by Andrew Stavig's daughter, Matilda. She died at age 90 in 1994 after living her entire life in this house. A magnificent collection of letters written back and forth to relatives in Norway are worth seeing. Stavig House is open on Thursdays through Mondays, Memorial Day to Labor Day, 10:00 A.M. to 4:00 P.M. Admission $3.00. Contact Jane Rasmussen 605-698-3025.

Fisher Grove State Park is seven miles east of Redfield, South Dakota on Highway 212. The land was once a river crossroad for pioneers going east and west across the James River that begins in North Dakota and spills into the Missouri River down at the Nebraska border. It is 277 acres with 28 campsites. Nineteen have electrical hookups. Long-term campsites are also available.

There is a restored 1884 one-room school building. The park lies alongside the James River where you may enjoy fishing, boating and canoeing. There are also playgrounds, hiking trails and picnic shelters. Fisher Grove State Park is open year-round. Gates are open 6 a.m. to 11 p.m. May 1 through September 30; and 6 a.m. to 9 p.m. October 1 through April 30. An entrance fee is required year-round.

Telephone: 605-472-1212.

Open 24 Hours the Dakota Connection Casino is located in Sisseton, South Dakota, and is owned and operated by the Sisseton-Wahpeton Sioux Tribe. Not sure how to get there? Call Toll Free 1-800-542-2876
They feature live Poker, Blackjack, Keno and Craps, Roulette and Pari-Mutuel Betting, along with over 600 Reel Slot Machines. There also have a hotel, restaurant and Convention Center within the facility. Each hotel room contains: data ports, telephone and cable TV, an arcade for children, a gift shop/smoke shop, a Jacuzzi and indoor pool, an exercise room plus fax and mail service. The hotel includes eight two-room suites and some luxury rooms with king-size beds and Jacuzzis in the rooms as well. For reservations or information, call 1-800-325-6825. By staying in a room, most people will qualify for a hotel fun book with valuable savings and discounts for use in different areas of the casino.
There is also a banquet room available for meetings and parties. It comfortably seats groups from 15 to 150 people for various types of functions. This room is located in the hotel and is available by calling the hotel at 1-800-325-6825

You can see South Dakota the way the first map maker saw it. Near Sisseton is a geographical feature that was named by Joseph Nicollet. He was a French scientist who mapped the land between the Mississippi and Missouri rivers in 1838-39. One of his favorite locations was this rise in the earth. He called it 'Coteau des Prairies,' a French word that means 'Prairie Hills.' We will begin in Aberdeen, South Dakota.
We flew to Aberdeen, rented a car and followed highway 281 north for twenty miles, turned right and went east on South Dakota Highway 10 toward Sisseton. East of Britton the land begins to rise. It is the region named 'Coteau des Prairies,' French for Hills of the Prairie. A dozen miles east of Britton you will find Fort Sisseton on the south side of SD Highway 10. A five-hour guided walking tour will show you the area's wildlife and geology.
Here are some thoughts about the Coteau Des Prairies. About 11,600 years ago the last ice age melted. Imagine, if you will, during the next really big snow storm that the North Pole has decided to slip southward as far as the Missouri River. That is about what happened. It was called the Late Wisconsin Ice Age.
There already existed a huge geographical feature in eastern South Dakota that was not fully covered by all that ice. This wedge-shaped landform starts around Sioux Falls and extends barely over the North Dakota border to the town of Geneseo, a few miles north of Sisseton. The east to west distance across it is 130 miles at the thickest portion. North to south is 250 miles. Its top is about 1000 feet higher than the surrounding terrain. As the ice melted, water from the 'Coteau des Prairies' began to flow into three major river systems on the continent. Northbound the water finds the Red River and empties into Hudson Bay. Water going east enters the Mississippi River and finally the Gulf of Mexico. Those streams to the west of the Coteau flow to the James River that feeds the Missouri River.
Joseph N. Nicollet writing of his impressions of the Coteau Des Prairies in 1839 said this: 'May I not be permitted in this place to introduce a few reflections on the magical influences of the prairies? . . . I pity the man whose soul could remain unmoved under such a scene of excitement.'
Climb the Nicollet tower and you'll agree with him.
The town of Sisseton is down the hill toward the east a few miles. You may eat lunch there at several places along Highway 10, American Hearth, Jackson's, Lakeland Steak House or West End Grille.