Chicago

I always enter the city at the same point--from the Olgilvie Train Station west of the Loop (Metra commuter rails stop here). It's a great feeling to turn left out of the station, cross the Chicago River while looking at the Lyric Opera's building, and to reach the El. Perhaps ironically, what I like best about the city are its separated neighborhoods: Oak Park for Frank Lloyd Wright enthusiasts, Pilsen for Mexican heritage and beautiful murals, the Magnificent Mile for shopping, Boystown (near Wrigleyville and the Cubs), Germantown, Greektown, Chinatown, etc. Walking around a small area yields a day (or days) of interesting finds: restaurants, independent shops, tons of coffeeshops, and places to listen to great music. Chicago hosts big-name attractions well worth your attention, but if you have more time, pick a neighborhood and wander.

Quick Tips:

If I had only one day to visit Chicago, I'd go on a Tuesday when lots of the museums are free, and open late. After picking just one (the Field, the Art Institute, the Museum of Contemporary Art, the Shedd Aquarium) to visit after 5 pm when most of the crowds are gone, I'd take a tour of the city's architecture (i.e. Chicago's Architecture Foundation offers tours on foot and by boat on the Chicago River). Mid-morning, I'd head to Devon Ave, arguably the most ecletic street in the city. As you walk, you'll find blocks of restaurants and shops serving Orthodox Jews, then Indians, then Pakistanis, then Koreans. The city's best Indian food is on this street. In the afternoon, I might visit Oak Park (Frank Lloyd Wright enthusists go here) or check out Wrigley Field. For dinner, Chinatown great Chicago style pizza at Giordano's or Gino's East. I'd then head to the museum of choice with late hours, and if I still had energy to burn, I'd walk along the Magnificent Mile before heading to bed. But, who would spend only one day in Chicago? These things hardly begin to expose what the city has to offer.

Best Way To Get Around:

Walk, take the eL (you can travel far with a , one day CTA pass), use taxis for short distances if you are tired. Avoid driving if at all possible -- the traffic is horrible and parking can be very expensive. Tourists who stay in a centrally located hotel will be able to access most things with public transportation. Those flying into the city can choose between Midway and O'Hare airports. While O'Hare is a less expensive cab ride than Midway, the traffic to and from is worse. Tickets to/from O'Hare are also more expensive, something those on a budget should keep in mind. Both airports are connected to the El, and it takes approximately 40 minutes to get from either airport to downtown. The downside of Midway, of course, is that it is smaller, and therefore has fewer amenities. But, I travel through Midway at Thanksgiving and Christmas and rarely have flight delays, or as happened at O'Hare last Christmas, experience terminal closures because Christmas lights overheat and catch fire.

First, the bad news. Wabash Avenue is now being rebuilt RIGHT IN FRONT OF THE HOTEL. We woke up early Saturday morning to the sound of jackhammers galore. When you reserve your room, check the status of the construction and book accordingly. We also thought the sheets were kind of itchy, but no one else had ever voiced that complaint to the front desk.

Now the good news. I arrived at 5:30 pm, halfway through the wine hour hosted by the hotel. Guests gather in the lounge and chat while sipping free merlot or chardonnay. The front desk staff and concierge are friendly and calm, and go out of their way to make sure you are not rushed and remain relaxed. I loved the room decor - big green and white stripes line the walls and, across from the king sized bed, a HUGE mirror. The windows are recessed into the wall so that you can sit on a bench seat and watch the building across the way. Or you can pull the curtains and have your own mini-chill out space. It's very peaceful. The room space is used well - no clutter. My 6'5" boyfriend loved the showerhead, which are elevated so he had no trouble getting wet from head to toe. The rooms are stocked with a wonderful bathrobe, CD player (bring your own romantic tunes - the CD provided by the hotel stinks), big TV, minibar, and tray of goodies. Stay away from the last two if you are worried about money, and don't forget your toothbrush - selections range from massage oil ($12) to a toothbrush or wax lips ($2.50) to Perrier ($5). Free Starbucks coffee is served in the lobby during mornings. We also tried out the 24 hour room service. The side of macaroni and cheese is the best either of us has ever had.

Again, if you want to save money, cross Wabash and visit the White Hen (a small grocery). What else? Hotel parking is $30 for 24 hours. This includes in and out privileges. The valets are friendly and prompt. The exercise room looked well-stocked and has free-weights.

Hotel Monaco is laid-back - I didn't sense that only the uppity stay here. The crowd in the lobby was friendly and chatty, the service is top-notch, and the rooms are comfy and super romantic. Now, the hotel has a "Do Not Disturb" package for $159 that includes a bottle of wine and breakfast in bed. If it's time for a splurge, this is the place to go.

Matsuya is a small Japanese restaurant about a block from Wrigley Field. The staff is kind and friendly, and expatriates from Japan form much of the clientele. All of the food is fresh (steaming hot when appropriate) and delicious. The sushi is of the highest quality and VERY well-priced. Most of the "dinner specials" are priced at under $10 and include soup, dessert, and a combination of cooked fish, sushi, tempura, noodles, or other meat. Sushi is slightly more expensive, but again, very well priced.

Located in "New Chinatown" (Argyle, off the Red Line), Nha Trang might be described as both a "hole in the wall" and a "mom and pop" shop. The married owners split the work--he takes orders while she cooks. The menu is mind-boggling with over 100 items, in addition to the daily and weekly specials. My date and I visited on an early Saturday evening and had the restaurant to ourselves for half our dinner (the chicken-curry spring rolls are absolutely amazing). Pho isn't this restaurants strong point, although I don't think anything could be bad. The husband is attentive and watches for you to put your menu down to order, while the wife, who speaks better English yells hello through her window in the kitchen. Her parting words were "see you soon," and she's right. We'll be back again.

I love this space. The inside is beautful and welcoming; the exhibits are informative and fun. Even a quick walk through will yield new/fun information to the visitor. Check out the tiny exhibits on the top floor ("The Paper Trail"). You might find a speech by Martin Luther King, Jr. or a treaty made between Native Americans and the U.S. government. Visit www.chicagohistory.org for more information.