Veliko Tarnovo

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Veliko Tarnovo - medieval Bulgaria

A July 1997 trip to Veliko Tarnovo by Amanda Best of IgoUgo

Near the boarder with Romania, this hilly, elegant Bulgarian town is a delight. I visited for the first time in July 1997, and loved the slow pace, beautiful buildings, and relaxed atmosphere here.

  • 7 reviews

Veliko Tarnovo - medieval BulgariaBest of IgoUgo

Overview

The town is set in the middle of a large bend in the river, and, therefore, forms an easily defensible site. From Roman times onwards, in the troubled history of this corner of Europe, a defensible site such as this developed quickly. The old town shows clear signs of ancient battles - fortifications and a citadel mark the edges of the medieval Veliko Tarnovo. The streets of the old town wind their slow way up and down the steep hillside - this was not a town designed for motorised transport.

Many of the buildings here are seriously ancient. The churches, for example, cover most periods from the 12th century onwards.

Quick Tips:

The banks here take what could be politely termed a relaxed attitude to banking hours. If you need to exchange money, make sure you go in the middle of opening hours; don't leave it until the last hour before closing as you might arrive and find the manager's sloped off early!

Best Way To Get Around:

The town is a steep walk from the railway station, even though it doesn't look far. In a fit of Puritanism, we decided to walk up, and found it a long, sweaty way in the middle of summer with our luggage. I recommend a cab!

Hotel KomfortBest of IgoUgo

Hotel

This is a small hotel, run in an intimate way by the manager and his wife. There aren't many rooms, and you'll therefore meet the other guests easily. The small cosiness of the hotel matches the town perfectly, and makes for a complementary place to stay. We had a room on the top floor, and it had a great view of the main hill on the other side of the old town - Trapezitsa. Breakfast was not included in the price (per person, per night) of about £12, but was served on request. Go for the requested meal - it's cheap, well-cooked, and pleasantly served.
  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by Amanda on August 21, 2000

Hotel Komfort
Panayot Tipograpfov 3-5 Veliko Tarnovo, Bulgaria
(359) 622-8728

Hotel YantraBest of IgoUgo

Restaurant

We had one meal here, which was average Bulgarian fare at fairly high Bulgarian prices. The reason to come here isn't the food; it's the view. The hotel is, as many buildings in Veliko Tarnovo are, built into the side of a cliff-face. As the hotel is quite high up, this means that the restaurant has the most amazing views. We lingered for about an hour after dinner with cups of coffee, admiring a light display of the other side of town. If you do come here - and the view is certainly worth it - make sure you get a window table, or you might as well not bother!
  • Member Rating 3 out of 5 by Amanda on August 21, 2000

Hotel Yantra
Stefan Stambolov Veliko Tarnovo, Bulgaria

Preobrazhenski MonasteryBest of IgoUgo

Attraction

It's set on a steep hill, in splendid isolation. As a result, it isn't the easiest place to get to. We got a bus from town, that stops in the village nearest the monastery, Gorna Oryahovitsa. From there, get out your hiking boots. It isn't a long walk, only just over a mile, but it is pretty steep, and heavily wooded.

Once you make it to the monastery, you won't mind the climbing! You'll probably appreciate the place all the more because of the effort to get here!

If you are here in summer, it can be pretty hot, and it would therefore be a good idea to set off early and take a good sized water bottle with you.

The site had 2 sets of buildings. The first, at the south of the site, is the monastery which dates from the 1380s. This is now in ruins, having been demolished and set fire to by invading Turks. Its replacement, built in the early 19th century, is a grand affair. The icons are impressive - the obligatory mother and child encased in gilt is one of the best we saw in Bulgaria.
  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by Amanda on August 21, 2000

Preobrazhenski Monastery
4 miles north of town Veliko Tarnovo, Bulgaria

Saint Dimitar of SalonikaBest of IgoUgo

Attraction | "St Dimitar of Salonika"

This is the oldest church in town. It's a fairly small, cool building, dimly lit. If you venture inside, and allow you eyes to get used to the light, you can see the careful stonework, that has held this amazing little building up for over 800 years. It is not as richly decorated as some of the churches in town, and I liked it because of this. It feels dignified, and spiritual.

The frescos in the church are beautiful, and well worth a look. They are later than the church itself, and were added to help teach illiterate locals biblical stories and lessons. Literate though you obviously are if you are reading this, they are still instructive and fascinating.

The church played an important part in history, as at one of the early services the church was used as the launching pad for an uprising against Byzantine government. This means that the church has more Bulgarian visitors than other tourist destinations in town.
  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by Amanda on August 21, 2000

Saint Dimitar of Salonika
North of Trapezitsa Hill Veliko Tarnovo, Bulgaria

Tsarevets CitadelBest of IgoUgo

Attraction

This enormous citadel was built to defend the town - and as it was sacked by the Turks at least twice, so was not up to the job. It's huge, imposing, and interesting. If you enter the building, there is a display of armour from various Bulgarian periods - as it isn't labelled I can't be more specific about what's there for you to see! From the top of the building you can enjoy a great view down the steep hill over the town.
  • Member Rating 3 out of 5 by Amanda on August 21, 2000

Tsarevets Citadel
Tsarevets Hill Veliko Tarnovo, Bulgaria

PotteryBest of IgoUgo

Attraction

Hand-made pottery is a great speciality here, and it's well worth having a look. Around the old town are many small shops, each selling the work of a few local craftsmen. When I was in town, my friend bought a beautiful small pot, which she now keeps on her dressing table to put loose change in. I wish I had been less concerned about weight and luggage, and got one myself, as it is a beautiful, perfectly-shaped dark blue bowl. Prices range from less than a pound for simple, small saucers or bowls, to about 10 pounds for the large, beautiful pieces.
  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by Amanda on August 21, 2000

Pottery
All over the old town Veliko Tarnovo, Bulgaria

About the Writer

Amanda
Amanda
London, United Kingdom

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