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We stumbled onto it first in1992, before Hurricane Iniki devastated Kaua'i. It's reached just after passing over the bridge beside Opaeka'a Falls. A left turn onto a steep, 1 lane road led down the cliffside to the village. Feeling adventurous, we took it, and held our breath around blind turns posted "Sound Horn". At the bottom, by the river, we found ourselves with only the guides for company. So our tour was thorough and attentive, and by its end, we and the guides were good friends. We were offered tickets to a hula benefit for the local lula troupe which was training for the Merry Monarch Festival in Hilo.This was not the usual luau for tourists, but a 3 hour professional production with visiting artists from Niihau and Honolulu. The only production we've seen that came even close to that evening was the Ballet Folklorico in Cancun.

Besides the village, there were kayaks available for rent to tour the Wailua River. We've taken that tour in later years, with our grown daughter. With 3 of us in two 2-person kayaks, we "borrowed" one of the Hawaiian staff to help with the second kayak. "Bob" was barefoot with a machete tied to his belt - sort of a Hawaiian Tarzan. Oh, the wondering stares we got from other tourists along the path to a hidden waterfall - as we were led by our personal guide.

The Wailua (means "Two streams" in Hawaiian) forks in the vicinity of the Fern Grotto, and the north (right hand, going upstream) branch leads to a rocky beach from which we hiked to the hidden waterfall. It's a long, often rocky trail that (for us) required sturdy shoes and some stream crossings. We were amazed to see our Hawaiian friend walking barefoot with no discomfort. Note that the sea kayaks we used are not noted for keeping you feet or trousers dry. Wear a bathing suit, and pack your shoes while on the water.

When Hurricane Iniki struck (1993?), the Hawaiian village was destroyed and was not rebuilt for some years. The movie "Outbreak" turned their fortunes around, both by providing funds to rebuild and by improving the access road, which now is "not too bad".

The round "African" huts built for the movie are not Hawaiian, but are still there. They make a good storage area.

Also see: this website

The temperature really drops after the sun goes down at this 4000 ft. elevation. So you'll need to stoke the wood stove in your cabin - or take lots of covers - even though shorts are comfortable through the heat of the day. Bring a warm jacket. Even so dressed, we were still cold in February evenings at the Pu'u o Kila lookout. the good news: no charge for the free air conditioning.

You'll also have the company of lots of jungle fowl (escaped fighting cocks which have gone wild) - very colorful birds, but vocal in the morning. And only on Kaua'i. The story goes that the mongoose on other islands decimate the wild chickens by taking the eggs of these ground nesting birds. And the mongoose was not introduced to Kaua'i - but that's another story.

While viewing the cliffside from Pu'u o Kila, look closely at the middle of the cliff. There's a waterfall spouting from the cliff, but at such a distance it's easy to miss. You're also apt to see lots of helicopters which come for a few minutes of this magnificent view. You, lucky dogs, have all day if you choose. Free.

I'll post a few pictures as time permits. But do a web search - this is a popular place for photographers.

But on Kaua'i, the crater of an extinct volcano forms a catchment for moist trade winds, cooling as they rise up the 5000 foot slopes of the volcano. And rain comes on the heights, at about 40 ft. annually, making the crater the wettest place on earth. That's why it's called Waialeale (overflowing water).

From this torrent, which forms a navigable river on a city sized island, comes the erosion which made Kaua'i's grand canyon, Waimea (red water). Rain and waves formed the thousand foot high Na Pali (the cliffs) and sculpted the mountains into fantastic shapes, and turned some old lava into the signature red dirt so popular on tourist t-shirts.

So this green paradise was a haven for plants and wildlife long before the first humans landed in the dim past. They were the original kama'aina (children of the land). And among them are:

The Hawaiian Monk Seal ('Ilio holo i ka uaua)
The name means "Dog who swims in the rough sea". But after a night's catch of fish, this swimmer often prefers a shallow beach to relax and digest its catch. But don't disturb these indolent endangered creatures, even if they're resting on your favorite swimming beach. Not only are they big enough to be dangerous, but they're protected by a really big fine if you're caught.

The Hawaiian Goose (Nene)
No longer a water bird, it's even lost the webbing between its toes and it nests on high ground - even on 10,000 ft high Haleakala. They're tame, knowing they're protected, so watch your driving in areas they frequent.

The Green Sea Turtle (Honu)
Likes to sun upon rocky shelves and swim along the shore, nibbling at algae on the rocks. We've watched pair swim for hours in the channel between the small island off the Kilauea Lighthouse.

Jungle Fowl
These are a Kaua'i signature bird. They date back to escaped fighting cocks and are found all over the island - very colorful - and very vocal in the early morning. But you didn't really want to sleep in anyway, did you? These birds are not nearly as common on the other islands, which are inhabited by the mongoose, an egg eater for ground nesting birds. No mongoose on Kaua'i, however - and don't try to sneak any in.

The story goes that importation of the mongoose to Hawai'i was intended to combat rats in the cane fields. It was unsuccessful because rats are nocturnal and the mongoose is not. But the mongoose shipment for Kaua'i encountered a dockworker who was so irate at being bitten that he drowned the whole shipment.

Hawaiian Tropic Bird
These long tailed acrobats are common in the updrafts off the Kilauea Lighthouse. In a mating dance, they even fly backwards (no kidding).

Frigate Bird
This huge black robber of other sea birds is also common at the Kilauea Lighhouse, which, oddly enough, adjoins a bird sanctuary and nesting ground.

Red Footed Booby
Also at the Kilauea Bird Sanctuary. Take a guided hike there - there's fantastic sea cliff scenery, in addition to the nesting birds.

The Hawaiian name is 'Ilio holo i ka uaua (the dog who swims in the rough seas), and they're very agile there, feeding at depths up to 400 ft. Asleep on the beach, they may appear sick or dead. But don't be fooled or try to disturb them. They're very happy to be left alone and big enough to be dangerous. Also, they're protected from being disturbed by fines as large as $20,000. The beach patrol generally will fence them off with markers, but you may find one who's just crawled up for a nap.

The largest ones we've seen were at Salt Pond Beach Park, near Port Allen. And oddly enough, there were two together there. We've also seen them at Tunnels Beach near Princeville, at Poipu Beach (often), at Lawai Beach within a stones throw of Lawai Beach Resort, and at the beach adjoining the Kaua'i Coast Resort at the Beachboy.