Harrogate and its wonderful area

Harrogate is worth seeing for its lovely open spaces and superb antique shops. At the right times of year the showground is home to the Great Yorkshire Show itself and to Antique Fairs.

Nearby is Harlow Carr Gardens, an RHS owned site, which , in addition to other plants of great beauty and interest, is a national centre for the Rhubarb family with profuse specimens of different types of gunnera.

Very close again is Knaresborough, a very picturesque town on the Nidd, unfortunately best known for a petrifying well and for its associations with Mother Shipton who seems to have been able to make some shrewd prophecies but must surely have been discredited somewhat when the world failed to end as predicted.

Ripon and Fountains Abbey are no real distance away and it is easy to get to Skipton and the Eastern Dales. This means that Harrogate can be used as a centre for any number of splendid trips, many of which will be described in this journal.

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Harrogate could also be used as a base for visits to York and area.

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Harrogate is connected by train with Leeds and York and as far as I know still has the odd direct train to London. It also enjoys good bus connections with much of Yorkshire. However the greater versatility of car journeys will be much appreciated if you can manage it.

This is a RHS [Royal Horticultural Society] garden planted in heavy clay soil on a sloping site with a stream running through - and it's great! It includes three national collections; rhubarbs, ferns and heathers in lay language. I suppose rhubarb sounds oddest of the three but it is extremely fascinating and, unless you are already an expert, you can learn a lot from it. Various kinds of rhubarbs have been grown in the past for medical, culinary and decorative purposes and there any number of varieties on display here.

There is also an arboretum where you can find an elm which is resistant to the appalling Dutch elm disease, but otherwise showing most characteristics of the English elm. There are also a number of different species of pines, rowans and whitebeams.

There are separate limestone and sandstone rock gardens in different parts as well as a demonstration rock garden to show the effects of using different types of stone.

Those who depend on the scent of flowers are not forgotten with a beautiful garden area where the plants are actually chosen for their aroma, though they look so attractive that anyone with no sense of smell might have difficulty believing it.

There is a winter garden where plants that are attractive in winter for their foliage or berries as well as winter flowering plants combine to make the display.

More can be found by enthusiasts on the website but you do not have to be an enthusiast to enjoy it here. There is also a cafe/restaurant for htose who are here at lunch time or would just like a drink.

This is a beautiful town in a gorge of the river Nidd with a castle towering above it on the top of a steep rise. The castle was built mostly in Edward the Second's time, though parts date back to King John. It is often used for jigsaws!

With its royal castle it was much involved in history, providing the first bolthole of the group who murdered Thomas a Becket in Canterbury Cathedral. It was occupied for a time by rebels during Edward 2's time and much harmed by Scottish insurgents.

Its castle and all royal rights were eventually given to Edward's grandson, John of Gaunt, who was father to Henry the Fourth. This put the town firmly on the Lancastrian side in the Wars of the Roses and later it was royalist in the Civil War.

Two particular characters stand out. The first is Blind Jack of Knaresborough who lost his sight as a child but still managed to build miles of roads in later life.

Now we come to the ? part with the even better-known Mother Shipton. There is no doubt that a real person, Ursula Sontheil, was born near the end of the 15th century. There is no doubt that she made 'prophecies' either. From there on make up your own mind. She would seem to have predicted the coming of horseless carriages, metal ships, submarines and aircraft long before the existence of any of them. She also is said to have made some accurate predictions about her own time. I find her predictions of the end of the world of some interest. When I first went to 'Mother Shipton's Cave' well before 1991, the Mother Shipton industry, if I can call it that, ascribed to her a prophecy that the world would end in 1991. I gather that 'the original prophecy' was that the world would end in 1881 but somehow this changed - after 1881 no doubt. There was clearly no nicely-rhyming date to change it to after 1991 but I find that this 'prophecy' is now ascribed to someone else who fraudulently got it put down to Mother Shipton in the middle of the 19th century. However she is supposed to have prophecied that the world will end when the 'High Bridge is thrice fallen.' The High Bridge would seem to be one which has already fallen twice. Will this prophecy one day be interpreted as meaning some time [unspecified] after it has fallen thrice? On the other hand if the end of the world is actually caused by a major object from space crashing into it, as many astronomers think likely, it might seem unlikely that the High Bridge would be left standing through such a calamity. So ?, ?, and more?.

No doubt the legend seemed more probable because of the 'magic,' which turned rapidly to stone any objects hung close to the cave. Certainly the mineral properties which cause this effect are very rare - but magic??

Fountains Abbey was founded in the 12th century by a group of Benedictine monks in search of a simple life who became Cistercians. Like most monastic buildings in England, it was dissolved in the 16th century. The ruins seem to me one of Europe's greatest sights. They are beautiful, evocative and very educational. It is now a National Trust site and is combined with the water gardens of Studely Royal, an adjacent estate which acquired the ruins in 1742. As well as the monks, who lived a very simple and indeed harsh life, there were 'Lay Brothers' whose role in the life of the Abbey would seem to have been to relieve the monks of routine domestic, agricultural and industial tasks. The estate at the heyday of the monastery was massive, spreading to the Lake District and to Teesdale - look at a map if you do not recognise the significance of this. In addition to plenty of ordinary agriculture, including very substantial sheep farming, the monastery was into horse breeding, lead mining, metalworking and stone quarrying.

The remains include not only those of the large church, chapter house and presbitery, with exemplary romanesque and Gothic arches in almost complete walls, but a lot of lay buildings as well, including the cellarium where the beer was stored.

The water gardens and deerpark at Studely Royal would be well worth visiting for their own sake but when added to the Abbey it makes for a wonderful day out. If you have a choice about when to go, I should make Autumn the very favourite when the colours of some of the trees are outstanding.

These are a few of my favourites in the area, some much harder than others but all giving great delight.

First, then, a walk from Grassington to Kettlewell and this is one of the very best with smashing views throughout.

You can either go through Grass Wood, which would certainly be favourite in Spring when the woodland flowers are at their best or go up Main Street, or left into Chapel Lane and into the farm ahead when the lane turns very left. Basically the object is to keep contouring about two thirds of the way up to the top through limestone. It is a bit difficult at the start but becomes simple once you are on the right route. I think it is often more convenient to return to the same place and this can be done by turning right at any time and making for the top then returning through milllstone grit scenery giving complete variety from the route out.

That makes a pretty long walk so if you prefer a stroll just wander from Grassington and really explore Grass Wood.

Lower down is the route from Bolton Abbey, over the footbridge and left on the minor road until you reach the marked path for Simon's Seat - dogs forbidden. There is no danger of getting lost and this is a fine walk with perfect views from the top. this will be even better if you can work out a route back through Appletreewick, bobbing in to look at Parcival hall gardens and then returning by Barden Bridge and the Strid, but there have been fatalities here so be careful and discourage any heroics from children.

Much further North there are several ways over to the minor Littondale, amazingly pretty with a wonderful minor road to Malham which is a must if you are staying in the area. The routes can be found on an ordnance survey map and you would be best starting at Buckden and walking more or less straight over then going over from Arncliffe to Starbotton and back by the lovely riverside walk through the woods. if you do not mind a short diversion I think the Queen's Arms at Litton is great but I have heard well of the Falcon in Arncliffe. now two easy walks: one up from Foxup, higher up from Litton on the River Skirfare, a tributary of the Wharfe to the farm at Cosh and back, one way each side of the stream - and their is a dry way across if you lok out well; the other is a short circuit from Hubberholme. Take the road towards Buck den and take the path immediately before the road left to Cray. The road goes there but the path is much better, then take the path up to cross the Crook Gill and get to Scar House from where there is a path back to Hubberholme. This is quite short and not difficult but scenically it is a knockout!

This is one of my three favourite dales [I include the upper part called Langstrothsdale when I say this] in my favourite county of England.

There are two roads from Wensleydale, both highly scenic which go up and over the watershed and down to Wharfedale at Buckden and Kettlewell respectively but the best of all is a minor road from Hawes which goes up to fall again into Langstrothdale; very winding, very steep, very narrow and amazingly beautiful with magic views over to Ingleborough.

The first part of the river has large polished limestone rock and when the river is at its natural level, this makes for comfortable and exciting paddling for children. Most of them will be pushed to count up to the number of dams which have been built by other children here over the years.

The river then flows through Hubberholme, one of my favourite places well before J. B. Priestley made it famous as his final resting place. The little church with is rare rood loft is one of my favourites anywhere. Then on to Buckden to meet the main road. Buckden Pike looms overhead with the route up from the carpark by the waterfalls being the best. Then the Wharfe, in Wharfedale proper now flows down via Starbotton to Kettlewell. There are several routes over to Littondale on the way and it makes a good outing to go one way and come back by the other, stopping for lunch at the wonderful Queen's Arms at Litton; not that the route by road lacks good eating pubs, Hubberholme, Buckden, Starbotton and Kettlewell all being able to make offerings - good ones too.

From Kettlewell the road on the right bank, [the main one] goes on to Threshfield and Burnsall, both delightful little places, past the severely overhanging Kilnsey Crag, probably having climbers meeting the challenge. Alternatively you can go down the other side by Connistone and Grass Wood, a marvellous habitat for wild flowers of limestone, to one of the prettiest and most popular of all Dales vilages/towns, Grassington. Between here and Bolton Abbey the river goes through a stretch called the Strid, very narrow, deep and fast with caves below and a desperate place to fall. Children may be tempted to jump across but the very thought makes me feel sick. There is a wonderful walk on the East side of the river to Simon's Seat [Duke of Devonshire's land - NO DOGS]

So to Bolton Abbey, an idyllic spot by the river where Bolton Priory escaped the fate of most monasteries in that the church is still standing - apparently because it had a dual role as a Parish church. Other monastery buildings were demolished. Pam tried a very basic explanation to our then three-year old grandson. 'Ah,' he said wisely, 'a building site.'

This marks the end of the outstanding stretch although the Wharfe remains attractive on through Ilkley on its journey towards the industrial areas.

There are some smaller dales that are well worth visiting. By virtue of the fact that they are shorter or that their rivers are only tributaries they rely more on natural scenery and less on towns or major buildings. Here I mention a few particularly good ones but I stick with those easy to visit from Harrogate and leave the so-called Craven Dales in my Settle journal.

Littondale is reasonably covered in my walks from Wharfedale page but for those who do not like walking I will mention again the lovely little inn at Litton, the Queen's Arms and the wonderful route from Arncliffe over to Malham [Settle journal] or from Halton Gill near the top of the dale over beside Penyghent to Stainforth. These drives are on narrow twisting roads and take longer than the map might suggest but the scenery is fabulous.

Another fine dale is Bishopdale which runs into Wensleydale on the route of the main road from Buckden into Wensleydale at Aysgarth. What is even better is the dale not called by a dale name which follows Walden Beck and joins Bishopdale at West Burton.

Lastly there is tiny Cotterdale, running down to Wensleydale up above Hawes. There is an enjoyable walk from here to Great Shunner Fel but this was better when it was a wilder place. It is now very eroded by the mass of walkers using the Pennine Way, although the views are still excellent.

Ripon Cathedral is probably not one of England's best-known, and from outside it lacks the grandeur of some, although the West frontage of the exterior is an exquisite example of Early English architecture. However the fact that it does not possess great height is probably due to the frequency of the raids it experienced during much of its early life, and should not detract from two key features which make it both beautiful and very important on the inside.

The first of these is its 7th century crypt, which is formed by a Saxon church built by St Wilfred on the site. This is unique in the country and is easily accessed by steps down.

The other feature of great distinction is the wood carving on the choir stalls dating from the late 15th century. It is sometimes very amusing as well as immensely skilled. Lewis Carroll is said to have been most impressed by the carvings which include a griffon chasing a rabbit down a hole.

The other centre of interest in Ripon is the market Square where markets have been held since the 12th century. This still feels like a town centre with superb Georgian and Mediaeval buildings, including the ancient Wakeman's House, a half-timbered building, and the Town Hall. An ancient event which has been continued is the appearance of the historic town cryer at 21:00 every evening.

Swaledale, like Wharfedale, is one of my favourites. I shall only look at the part from Keld to Easby Abbey, just below Richmond. Pretty well any road you choose from Wensleydale to hit Swaledale from Grinton/Reeth upwards is very steep in parts and conveys a sense of excitement but the best of all is the 'Buttertubs Pass' from Askrig to a point between Muker and Gunnerside. This is very steep and narrow with terrific views going down into Swaledale and the 'Buttertubs' themselves are scenic if you get out and look, massively deep natural holes in Limestone with fascinating vegetation.

Swaledale itself is narrow and steep sided, particularly in its upper parts and its barns are well known for their distinctive style.

Near Keld is a fine little waterfall, Kisdon Force and a walk up to Crackpot [yes!]. Downriver is Muker, a shopping destination for many at Swaledale Woollens with fine but not cheap local knitware. On again to Gunnerside, this stretch from Keld to Reeth being the most spectacular. However, fond as I am myself of the moors on both sides, I do not recommend them except to those who can find interest and fascination in the remains of lead mines. The natural scenery has been affected a lot and is not so entrancing as that of Wharfedale. Reeth had some really good shops until fairly recently but is now mainly significant for several pubs and for being the point where Arkengarthdale, coming down from County Durham, comes into Swaledale. This is another dale which deserves to be followed upwards. It is now not far to Richmond. Richmond must surely be one of the very best towns in the Yorkshire Dales. Its Norman Castle was built in the 11th century and enough remains to make the town's appearance from a distance. There is an amazing cobbled market square surrounded largely by fine Georgian houses. One of the most exciting buidings in Richmond is the oprational Georgian Thatre. It cannot claim to have been in continuous operation as it was closed as a theatre from 1848 to 1963. None the less it is little altered now from its 18th and early 19th century heyday. There is also a theatre museum about which I can say little because it has been renovated since my last visit - but it has to be worth seeing. Lastly, just a short walk down the river is Easby Abbey. This is not one of Yorkshire's best known abbeys but there is a lot left to see and it makes a great stroll.

I will confess that Wensleydale is not as high as Wharfedale or Swaledale on my favourites list - a bit too tidy and organised and less grand scenery - but not many places are in that category and much of it is very good indeed. It is named after a town and its river is the Ure. I shall start rather arbitrarily at the town of Hawes and follow downstream to Jervaulx Abbey, again somewhat arbitrarily since I do not know where the Ure valley loses the name of Wensleydale. Hawes is a lovely little town, especially on market days when there are stalls on its main street, not all that many but they are very useful.

There are three particular attractions. The first is the Creamery where Wensleydale cheese is made after nearly being lost to Lancashire. In the end there was a management buy-out. The tour of the Creamery and the processes of cheese making is most interesting - but so is the fact that the same cheese is substantially cheaper in Hawes market! The ropemakers shop comes next and you can watch rope being made here or buy oddments of rope or fabrics which, I am assured by my more skilful relations, are really useful for all sorts of craft work. Thirdly the museum on the site of the old station is really good. [There is now a bus link with Garsdale Head on the Settle-carlisle railway.]

Up above the dale on the right as you go down dale is Semerwater, a rare lake in these parts in a beautiful setting. Shortly after, on the opposite bank, is the village of Askrigg, recognisable to many as the centre for the TV series about vets, 'All Creatures Great and Small.' The next important sight is formed by the beautiful, if not exciting, waterfalls at Aysgarth with a fine National Park centre.

Six or seven miles on is Wensley [nothing special despite its name]. Back to the other side for the castle remains at Castle Bolton, a bit away from the river, then down to the busy little market town of Leyburn. Then, away to the right of the dale, we come to Middleham Castle, a reminder of the only King who spent much of his early life in Northern England, Richard the Third, still the centre of mighty controversy. Shakespeare's wellknown play provides one side of the case but it is not altogether convincing as history, however marvellous the entertainment!

And so to Jervaulx Abbey. This is more ruined than either Fountains or Rievaulx, but there is a delightful sense of tranquility about it in spite of its proximity to the road. I gave a personal opinion at the beginning and I stack there but for many visitors this is a favourite dale.

Skipton chooses for itself the title 'Gateway to the Dales.' I think of it as the gateway to Wharfedale, and I think of Settle, Hawes and Richmond as gateways to other parts of the Dales.

More even than the cities of West Yorkshire, this is a place that everyone seems to go to some times - I mean of course people who live in Yorkshire. The attraction to regular visitors is the market above all else. Skipton has one very wide street running uphill to the castle and church at the top and there is plenty of room for numerous market stalls on both sides of this street and for traffic still to flow between them.

There are several other major attractions as well.

The first is the castle, one of the best preserved in England because, unlike most of those that were besieged by Parliamentarians in the Civil War and later made inoperable, this one was actually restored - by Lady Anne Clifford.

The 16th century oak choir screen in the church is a fine example. Then there is the quite small but very good Craven Museum in the Town Hall.

Lastly there is the Leeds-Liverpool canal, near its summit here, with regular short trips.

Nearby, as well as places mentioned on other pages, is the steam railway at Embsay.

Skipton has any number of possible places to eat of which we like 'Erbs', a vegetarian restaurant at the top of the main street on the left - above a health food store.