Corfu -A Walk on the Quiet Side

We stayed at one of the dozen or so pensions in the West Coast village of Pelekas. Elvira and Petros, the owners, go to extraordinary lengths to make sure their guests are settled and happy.

Pelekas is situated high on a mountainside with views all over central Corfu and the rugged western coastline. The village is quiet - six good restaurants, three bars, a handful of small supermarkets, and a welcoming commmunity which gets on with life, untroubled by the tourists. Its worth taking time to wander around some of the narrow, old streets above the high street for a glimpse of how the village would have looked 50 years ago.

Pelekas has access to some of the finest beaches in Corfu. Within an hours walk, there are four sandy stretches set among cliffs and hills covered in olive trees and pencil-thin cypresses - Pelekas beach (Kontogialou),Glyfada, Yialiskari and Mirtiotissa. Each has its own character and style, offering something for everyone.

Quick Tips:

To Pelekas from the airport- 20 min taxi ride for 15euro, or a half hour local bus(#11) from San Rocco in the town Centre for 75eurocents. Ensuite double room with balcony and small kitchen area for 35euro.

A two course meal with wine, around 20euro - recommend Roula's Grill, Pink Panther and Jimmy's. Alexandros restaurant was overpriced. The two of us had a great time on 90euro a day, including accomodation. Check out www.pelekas.com

Best Way To Get Around:

There is a regular bus service into Corfu town (Kerkyra) for 75eurocents each way. From Kerkyra you can get local and national buses, cheaply, all over the island and across to the mainland. Taxis are not expensive. Hire of cars and mopeds is moderate - 25euro and 12-15euro perday, respectively.

Best time to go is May-June, quiet with longer hours of sun, spring flowers and great walking. Sept-Oct is also good though the weather can be unpredictable.

Usual Greek rooms - clean and basic twin room with bathroom ensuite and small kitchen unit including refridgerator. All rooms have a balcony. The owners, Elvira and Petros, are welcoming and very obliging. They speak English, German and Italian well enough and can help with car/moped rental and taxis etc.

They run a small bar downstairs, assisted by Margarita, their grand-daughter. Its a gathering place for their guests who are usually independent travellers; so alone or with another, you'll always find company if you want it. Five minutes walk to the centre of the village.

The small family-run restaurant offers some of the best grilled food in Corfu. Michaelis, the owner sources his fresh meat from the butchers shop owned by his brother, just across the street. As well as the ubiquitous souvlaki, they serve piles of the tasiest lamb chops, roll of belly pork cooked slowly on a roasting spit and, for the adventurous, a local speciality called 'Kokoretsi' - I wont tell what this is, ask Roula.

Good starters and a tasty unsophisticated local wine. A two course meal for two including wine and tip, about 20euro.

Despite its name which some might find off-putting, this is a great restaurant, specialising in Greek and Italian food. Go carefully with the starters, especially their version of garlic bread(highly recommended), or else you'll have no room for the main course. The grilled meats are done well and they have a wide range of fish and calamari which are carefully prepared. Their pasta dishes are good and authentic (they hire Italian chefs during the summer). Huge portions of everything and a broad range of local and national wines. The view from the terrace is stunning! Watch out for mosquitos.

Not the most beautiful beach in the world but one of my favorites. While it is becoming more popular, its isolation and 40 degree access paths mean it'll always be a special place.

From Pelekas, Mirtiotissa is a pleasant 50minute downhill walk, the last two kilometres following a narrow tarmac road and unsufaced tracks through olive groves. Be warned, the last 800m is an incredibly steep and dusty track down. The autumnal storms and tides take away the beach every year. It is recreated by the spring tides leaving a clean, sandy cove.

Be aware of a few informal demarcations. As you get onto the beach from the track and walk toward the sea, the main section right in front of you is mixed - clothed/nudist, gay/straight. The section of beach to the left is mainly nudist. Beyond the rocks to the right it is mainly nudist and gay - there is not much beach this way, just very small coves.

Tolerance and easy-going attitudes prevail among bathers on Mirtiotissa. The beach is enclosed by cliffs to which cling pines, myrtle and thyme bushes. A couple of streams trickle down to the beach providing a cool freshwater shower. There is little natural shade on the beach and it has the sun most of the day.

There is a good taverna just above the beach and a small hut selling drinks and snacks, umbrellas and beds (at the same rates as other beaches in the areas). Enjoy your stay and look after the environment.