Uncovering the Jewels in Jackson

Jackson is a poor town. There is no denying it. This is evident as soon as you drive into downtown. There are many dilapidated neighborhoods and crumbling buildings. HOWEVER, there are also diamonds in the rough. Mississippi's capital is, for instance, the home of one of the world's most respected dance competitions: the International Ballet Competition. Jackson was also home to one of our nation's most beloved writers and artists, Eudora Welty. The house of civil rights activist Medgar Evers is open for visits (by appt. call Tougaloo College at 601-977-7839). The graceful Govenor's Mansion built in 1842 is open for free tours Tuesday-Friday. There is a planetarium, several art and history museums, botanical gardens, and fine universities to be explored. North Jackson has beautiful communities where many residents live.

Quick Tips:

Nearby you'll find attractions such as the Mississippi Petrified Forest, a crafts center, a western town called Hilltop Painted Acres, a historic route called the Natchez Trace Parkway followed by the Indians, and more. Vicksburg, one of the most contested port towns of the American Civil War, is just a short drive away, too. Jackson would be a good base from which to explore these Mississippi gems. The Millsaps Buie House on the National Register of Historic Places is a great B&B to call home for your vacation.

Best Way To Get Around:

You need a car in Jackson. You can certainly explore downtown on foot during the day, but, unfortunately, you don't want to walk around after sundown. You'll still want to go out at night though. Jackson offers incredible live blues music for you to enjoy over a drink (Try 930 Blues Cafe on 930 N. Congress St./601-948-3344). The theater was performing the play Misery when we were in town. Ballet, jazz and symphony can all be enjoyed at night as well.

Brief History
Built in the 1880's, the Millsaps Buie House was once home to one of Jackson's most important benefactors. Once a major in the Confederate Army, Reuben Webster Millsaps made his fortune in St. Louis after the Civil War. He returned to his home state of Mississippi and contributed the money needed to open Millsaps College in Jackson in 1892. Millsaps had attended Harvard but wanted to provide a place for Southern men to receive a quality education closer to home. Upon building his 6,000 + sq. foot Queen Anne Victorian on a hill overlooking the downtown skyline, Millsaps settled in Jackson for good. Ownership of the home has remained in the family ever since.

Our Visit
We pulled up to the beautiful bed and breakfast late in the afternoon. The tall columns on the front porch are hard to miss. We were greeted upon entrance to the grand foyer and quickly shown to our rooms. We chose to stay in the Observatory Suite($175+tax/night+child charge) on the top floor. The light blue bedroom with 2 queen beds was originally attic space, but the Octagon Observation room was always used by the family to view the city of Jackson. This view is more obstructed today than it was in the 1800s, but the new state capital is easily seen, and the space is quite comfortable. This suite is a good choice if you are traveling with children (Very young kids strongly discouraged here. Our son is 8 though and was made welcome! $15 extra charge per night per child.) because you'll have two, separate TVs with basic cable. The suite's bathroom with its slanted roof is small, but the water pressure in the shower is strong and hot. We looked into several of the other rooms, some of which were very romantic---a good choice for the traveling couple. On all the floors except the top one, the rooms have 14 ft. high ceilings.

At one point we were given a quick tour of the house that proved extremely interesting. We learned about a vagrant who was routed from the property right before it was opened to the public in the 1980's. Apparently this man turned into an arsonist and tried to burn the home where he was scorned to the ground! The fire actually exposed the beautiful, original hardwood floors that had at some point been covered in veneer! Fortunately, the structure remained enough in tact to stay on the National Register of Historic Places.

After a wonderful night's sleep, we greatly enjoyed breakfast downstairs at a table in the library. Elegantly presented in silver dishes were an assortment of Southern breakfast favorites: creamy grits perfectly prepared with just the right amount of cheese, bacon, buttermilk biscuits, eggs, coffee....

Location
Many of the guests are repeat business travelers who return here again and again. However, Jackson tourists will find the B&B centrally located to area attractions. The staff is very friendly and helpful.

We enjoyed our stay.

Easily accessed from I-20, the Edison Walthall is located in the heart of Jackson near the Governor’s Mansion. There is a secured parking garage conveniently available for guests behind the hotel, which is accessed from Pearl Street.

The lobby of the hotel was especially inviting after many hours of travel on a dark road. The green marble tile, the dark wood paneling, the high ceilings, the richly furnished reading area, all lent an air of luxury to the hotel which was built in 1928. The staff greeted me with a smile and a coupon for a complimentary cocktail in the bar. The Edison has a full service restaurant on site.

A drink looked inviting, however, I had a sleeping dog and child in my car. I had partially chosen the Edison Walthall on this trip because pets are accepted guests, and we had the family terrier in tow. While I was told they only have a four-legged visitor once or twice a month at most, it was wonderful to be able to stay in decent lodgings without worrying about the dog.

Our room was on the seventh floor. It was small with rose-colored carpets and bedspreads. Swinging white doors revealed a separate vanity area with a tiny bathroom to the side. Two of the wooden chairs near the beds were chipped and looked a little worn. Even so, everything was exceptionally clean, and the room was quite comfortable. The pillows on the bed were the sink-into-your-dreams-kind-of-soft, and we were quickly snoozing.

In the morning, ordering room service was a wonderful luxury. My son and I dined on eggs, bacon, fresh fruit and coffee in the comfort of our room. The most pleasing thing for me was the bill, which was actually reasonable! While we did not dine there for lunch, we noticed upon check out that the restaurant downstairs was quite full of patrons---always a good testament to the quality of the food!

Basic amenities: Pool and fitness center, high-speed Internet connections, restaurant and bar with occasional live entertainment. Barber shop on the first floor. Cable TV. Suites available.

Drawbacks: Rooms are on the small side. A little wear and tear evident. No coffee pot.

Big Pluses: Great location near the interstate. Historic and cultural attractions within walking distance.

Special Note: MAKE RESERVATIONS IF YOU PLAN TO STAY HERE. The Edison Walthall is very popular with business travelers, and it was overbooked when we stayed there on a Monday night in February, 2003.

Website: www.edisonwalthallhotel.com

The Mayflower Cafe has been opened since 1935, so you know they are doing something right. Located downtown on the corner of Roach and Capital, the Mayflower is near the Governor's Mansion and the Millsaps Buie House B&B, so it's easy to find. Just look for the neon sign.

We parked our car on the street out front where a security guard kept watch one evening in June.

The atmosphere is what one would expect from a cafe. There are dark brown booths with hooks for hanging coats on either side of the restaurant. Tables for bigger parties are in the narrow middle on the black and white tiled floor. The silver bar gave the place a fifties feel as it looked to me like the perfect place to order a soda. For adults, beer is available at the Mayflower, but you can bring your own bottle of wine (as in all of Jackson, a small cork fee will be assessed). A large swordfish hangs on the wall with various other trophies from the sea. A chalkboard shows the daily specials.

I began my meal with a small bowl of crab bisque. There wasn't a lot of lump crabmeat in the soup, but it was so smooth and creamy with just the right hint of heat that I didn't care a bit. Other offerings on the menu included softshell crab, flounder, red snapper, jumbo Gulf shrimp (my entree, delicious!), broiled lemonfish, calf's liver, steak, and more. Served on simple dishware, dinner proved delicious. The snapper my husband ordered was well cooked, flaky but firm, not greasy but perfect. My son amused himself by coloring his children's menu, making sure he saved room for dessert.

We liked the big band jazz music playing in the background, so soft it was unobtrusive. We enjoyed the casual atmosphere and the food at the Mayflower, and I would eat there again.

If you have time for a leisurely lunch or dinner in Vicksburg (30-45 minutes west of Jackson), enjoy a meal near the river at Duffs Tavern and Grill. This English-style pub has heavy wooden beams on the ceiling of its brick interior. Two suits of armor flank a wooden mantle to one side of the main dining room. A framed quilt on the wall gives just a hint of the Mississippi/Americana influence on the décor. The wait staff, clad in ties and black pants, add to the upscale atmosphere. Even the restrooms are elegantly decorated, with deep green tiles and mirrors framed in gilded gold.

As for the menu...start off with an artichoke and spinach dip, or crab claws, fried oyster, or gumbo. Choose from an assortment of sandwiches: Monte Christos and Clubs. My bacon Swiss hamburger was char grilled black on the outside to contain juicy perfection within each delicious bite.

While we did not have time to linger in the area, I noticed several stores on the same street as the restaurant: everything from a place to buy antiques, to clothes, to stained glass!

Vicksburg attractions are all located nearby.

My son and I went for a late morning walk, and the neon illuminated coffee mug in the window of Saucers Deli caught our eyes. We decided to stop in and see what this little cafe has to offer.

I immediately liked the fun interior of the restaurant: the casual blue and yellow checked floors, the beaded shade lamps on the tables, the original art hanging on the walls. A Georgia O'Keefe-like, up close portrait of a giant orange made a special impression on me. Chalkboards displayed the day's specials.

The Saucers menu is basically what you'd expect from a deli: sandwiches, salads, fountain sodas, soup. Of course, the food has a distinct Southern flair: red beans and sausage over rice, chicken pot pie, sinful desserts to die for....

My son pressed his nose to the glass case that displayed cakes and cookies. The man behind the counter served up a generous slab of bread pudding slathered in praline sauce for us to enjoy. We took two plastic forks and our snack to a small table outside the deli on the sidewalk. Even in February, the Mississippi morning was warm and humid---though pleasant.

Not quite as moist as my grandmother's bread pudding, the dessert (plenty big enough for two) was none-the-less finger licking yummy with a hint of cinnamon in each bite.

As the noon hour approached, we noticed a crowd of people flocking to the deli: men in pressed white shirts and women in shiny high heels. A lot of the patrons ordered food to go, obviously getting meals to eat back in their offices. This seems to me to be the greatest testament to the value and quality of the food at any eatery: repeat customers....

As for us, we finished our dessert and contemplated whether or not we should be gluttons and get another slice to go....

This museum was once the state’s capital building (from 1839-1903). Today, it's a good example of Greek revival architecture, and it is worth a visit. Within walking distance of our B&B and near the Governor’s Mansion, the Old Capitol Museum is located in downtown Jackson.

On the first floor we walked through several rooms filled with exhibits about the Native American population that once thrived in Mississippi. We meandered our way through time, reading about everything from the Civil War to the Civil Rights Movement, stopping only to look at pottery in the gift shop. School children in summer programs followed staff members closely around the exhibits. Footsteps echoed in the large foyer as the morning wore on and more visitors entered the building. I personally found it interesting to look into the old governor’s office, which still has a portrait of Jefferson Davis hanging on the wall. The old Senate gallery, too, has a hushed and solemn feel about it, as if echoes of past speeches of great political import could still be heard today.

Anyone interested in the history of Mississippi or "Chimneyville" (Jackson's nickname after the Civil War; because so much of it was burned to the ground, on many streets only the chimneys were left standing) will enjoy this museum.

Hours:
Monday-Friday 8-5
Saturday 9:30-4:30
Sunday 12:30-4:30

Admission: Free

Contact Number: 601-359-6920

Not far from Jackson, just off of I-20, you will find the Vicksburg National Military Park. Vicksburg was a hotly-contested port town during the American Civil War, and its loss was the beginning of the end for the Confederacy.

Upon entrance to the park, we found men in Confederate uniforms loading cannons near the Visitors’ Center. They promptly gave us a quick lesson on the firing of 19th century weapons of war. Inside the Visitors’ Center we watched a quick film that gave us a lesson on the historical significance of the park. We also bought a tape for $5 in the gift store that we played in our car as we drove through the park. (You can hire a personal guide instead, if you like.) The tape did a wonderful job of narrating the history of sites of major significance along the way. With no pressure from anyone to remain on a timetable, we parked at several points to look at monuments that were of particular interest to us. Here both Union and Confederate soldiers are given due respect for the sacrifices they made for their separate causes near the Mississippi River. Many of the Union buried their dead here as well.

This is a must-see for any American Civil War history buff.

While the loop road through the park covers less than 20 miles, you’ll need to allow at least an hour to hear the tape and walk around the monuments. A small museum is located halfway through the tour, but it was closed for renovations when we visited Vicksburg.

Hours: Visitors’ Center: 8-5 daily
Closed Christmas Day

Suggestion for Food: If you are hungry after your tour of the Vicksburg National Military Park and you don’t want to eat at one of the fast food restaurants by the entrance, take a right out of the park and go towards downtown Vicksburg. Within five miles of the park, near the waterfront, is Duffs Tavern and Grill (see separate entry).

Admission: $4/car, $2/person in van, Under 16 free

The second oldest continuously occupied governor's mansion in the country*, the Mississippi Governor's Mansion is an excellent example of Greek Revival architecture. After several restorations, this National Historic Landmark, which was built in 1842, has liberal visting opportunities for the public. Open Tuesday-Friday with free tours offered every half hour in the morning from 9:30-noon, this is a must-see for any Jackson visitor interested in interior design or history.

On a Tuesday morning in 2003, my son and I walked to the front gate of the stately Governor's Mansion on Capitol Street. With its neoclassical columns and grand entrance, the house itself reminded me of a miniature White House. A guard met us at the gate and told us to wait for the next tour guide who would usher us and a small group of other people into the building. I had already lectured my son on how to behave inside a prominent politician's house, but all he wanted to know was how long the tour would last. The guard winked at him and smiled at me. "Just about thirty minutes is all," he said. While groups of school children are often frequent visitors to this site, I would not suggest it for the very young or the rambunctious. I was able to peak my own 8-year-old child's interest (at least a little), however, by pointing out that General Sherman had once used the mansion as a headquarters and dined there on his march through Mississippi during the Civil War.

When we entered the mansion, the guide gave us a brief overview of the building's history and begin to point out unique architectural traits. I enjoyed looking at the wide plank hardwood floors and Empire furnishings. The guide even pulled my son into the presentations in one room by asking him about some of the paintings on the walls, the allegorical oils that represented man's journey from youth to old age. The tour does go through the top floor of the mansion, the guest rooms that are still used by visiting dignitaries today, but the private quarters are behind the building. Check out the 1860s recliner covered in horsehair fabric in one of the bedrooms!

Bottom Line? Certainly worth a look.

Price for Entry? FREE.

*The oldest continuosly occupied governor's mansion in the United States is located in Austin, Texas.

When we decided to stay in Jackson for the night, we were traveling with the family dog. For $10.50/night we boarded our furry child at the North State Animal and Bird Hospital located at 5208 North State Street, just a few miles from the B&B where the humans spent the evening.

If you need an animal boarding option, too, make sure you bring a copy of your pet's up-to-date shots record!

Call the kennel ahead of time for reservations during holiday weekends (601-982-8261). The staff was friendly, helpful and polite, and I liked the fact that a vet was available if needed.