North of Carcassonne.

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Albi Cathedral is quite unlike any other I have seen and on those grounds must be worth a visit, albeit if the impression it creates is anything like what it did for me, it might be quite a short visit!

The exterior of this 12th to 16th century building is harsh and military - clearly built for defense. As soon as you enter the contrast is dramatic. Words like sumptuous are often used for the decoration and every square inch of red brick is covered in paintings. I think anyone must feel an immense reaction to the extremity of it. I know people, otherwise reasonable at that, who love it. We both felt utter loathing and on its own I should be giving a 1 star note below - but it is not on its own. Next to it in the old Episcopal Palace is the museum of Toulouse-Lautrec's works. This is simply great and leads me to the 3 star overall rating below.

Toulouse-Lautrec was born in Albi in 1864. He was an aristocrat but did not enjoy good health and managed to break both his legs between the ages of 12 and 14 after which they stopped growing and he only attained a height of 1.5 meters. he managed, none the less, to participate in Parisian night life and many of his artistic works have this as their subject. This may well be the best collection anywhere of his works.

Mont Caroux is usually thought of as part of the Espinouse but it actually slightly separate with the Gorges d'Héric in between. To reach the top relatively easily and without too much exposure to the sun [the exposure is total but the distance is short!] take the D180e, a short cul-de-sac off the D180 to its end in Douch, a pretty little village with honey for sale and not much else. Then take to your feet for a couple of hours. Veer left on the path early on and you will find it quite hard to avoid coming to the top, near which is an orientation table. There are terrific rocky gorges below you on the way down to the Orb valley and the Gorges d'Héric really call, until you remember that your car is the other way and you would have to toil back up! This is a superb place to stop for a picnic and it is far less populated than many places in France with views of this standard.

The cathedral, which I gather has a really good organ, is far more picturesque than most in Southern France though I am a bit puzzled by it. Built in a beautiful tan coloured stone it has some parts which are pure Romanesque in style and yet I have found nothing on the web which dates it earlier than the 13th century, when the gothic style had taken over in much of southern France. I supppose it was something of a backwater.

Anyway it is a fine place and a brilliant centre.