Coastal Encinitas, Highway 101 South

Enjoying the tranquil beauty of the Self Realization Meditation Gardens and ,in contrast, watching the expert surfers below the Gardens on Swami's Beach.
Reveling in the sights and sounds of free weekend concerts at Moonlight Beach.
Off-beat shopping at The Lumberyard and searching for the unique gift.
Feasting on "comida autentica" at the El Callejon. Restaurant.
Creating your own pizza at Leucadia Pizzeria.
"Pigging out" on the restaurant food "samples" at the annual Main Street Food Festival.

Quick Tips:

Pick up the very useful, historically illuminating "Walking Around Historic Downtown Encinitas," available at the Visitors' Center at 138 Encinitas Boulevard, within the Chamber of Commerce Office,and at the Downtown Encinitas MainStreet Association. It will guide you to see the many buildings still surviving from the late nineteenth century and fill you in on local lore and amusing anecdotes associated with some of the points of interest-it's free and fun.

Best Way To Get Around:

Stroll,preferably from Moonlight Plaza south,ending up at the Self Realization Gardens. Save strolling the beaches for early morn or late evening when crowds are minimal and views of the ocean max in satisfaction. Rent a bike-you'll see lots of others on bikes and some on skateboards, one of the locals' favorite means of coastal travel. Check out the Coaster Station-it's your gateway to points north and south of Encinitas. Taxis are expensive and busses are infrequent (though bike-friendly) and have limited stops. For freedom, cars are best, but parking downtown is difficult even in off-season, though parking at the Coaster Station is feasible if you arrive early in the morn before the commuters pack it.

For the past twenty years, "The Alley"-El Callejon-has been packing them in to enjoy Mexico City cuisine and an astonishing stock of(they claim) over 400 tequilas!The incredible bar(to see the alignment of tequila bottles is to believe their claim) is huge, as huge as the size of their tequila drinks(well..not exactly). For sure, we've eaten there many times, and the food and service has always been top-notch. Recently, they've opened another restaurant in Cardiff, hopefully a spot in which finding a parking space isn't the hassle it is at this location. Moonlight Plaza is also occupied by the popular Leucadia Pizzeria on its corner and, between the two restaurants, there's limited parking space which quickly fills up at dinnertime especially. Better to park at the nearby Coaster station and walk to here-the exercise will somewhat offset the effect of the generous portions of enchildas suizas or chile rellenos you'll consume.

As you are seated, the waiter brings three types of salsa(warm to very HOT) and a basket of homemade chips, crunchy and still warm. Extensive are the menu choices before you - you can be adventurous and try the Camarones al Chipotle, as I did(yum),or,if you can't tolerate spicy, select their fish tacos,grilled cod wrapped in El Callejon's made-on-the-premises corn tortilla. There's Mexico City traditional tamales wrapped in banana leaves, crepes with poblano , assorted fish, chicken or pork, in mole or chipotle sauce, or you can try the Medallones de Cilantro, which I enjoyed, as it's thin beef grilled and served with a really nippy cilantro sauce. My husband dislikes cilantro, but loves their pintas al Albanil (Mexican beef stew) which warms him up when we dine there as we did during the winter on the open-air central patio. Of course, the patio is equipped with heaters at that time.

If there is a downside to this restaurant,it is that it is not quiet;it's far too popular for that,the waiters scurry around speedily, and its tequila drinks seem to fuel loud conversations. This is also a very family-friendly spot; I've seen children I know from the preschool I work at,on two occasions. This restaurant, in fact, attracts all ages, from kids to dating couples to old marrieds. It's open 11 to 10 during the week, and on Sundays from 11 to 9. Coupons are sometimes available in local throw(free) papers and it's on American Airline's dining program. I have never had dessert here - I know they have them, but no one in our family of three has ever been empty enough to order one.

An institution in Encinitas, this dine-in or take-out restaurant now has three other branches,in Rancho Santa Fe,La Jolla,and Carmel Mountain Ranch,respectively. Family-oriented ,this restaurant has an array of pizzas from combos like cheeseburger to rosemary chicken potato to shrimp pesto to vegetarian broccoli and eggplant; all pizzas can be made without cheese or with a non-fat mozzarella, as this spot caters to health-conscious clientele. The original restaurant was thoroughly remodeled about five years ago and turned into an airy, attractively lit eating place from its formerly scruffy, typical beach take-out personality. An attractive patio allows diners to gaze at the ocean at Moonlight Beach a short couple of blocks away.

At LP, they feature calzones and a lengthy list of pasta entrees including red clam linguine, vodka penne, cream chicken linguine, and Thai Chicken pasta. For the very health-conscious they can make any thin crust pizza with a honey-wheat crust,with or without cheese. Pizzas range in price from $3.99 for the mini to $19.60 for a whole 16x16 pan with three toppings pizza. Needless to say,at these prices,they do a large volume of take-out and delivery orders. Lots of choice and reliability are the hallmarks here. This is the place to pick up sandwiches and drinks for a picnic on nearby Moonlight Beach.They have about a dozen different sub sandwiches, as well as "plain " turkey,roast beef, tuna salad or ham that comes with tomato and lettuce, red onions and mayo, on wheat or Italian roll with potato chips and slice of pickle for $6.25 a full sandwich or $3.95 a half(ideal for kids).

In effect,the pizzeria is two businesses in one- a takeout, delivery and catering venue, and an on-site dining spot that has full bar and a dessert menu that lists such goodies as berry swirl cheesecake, fresh fruit tarts, tiramisu, and chocolate peanut butter mousse dome, at modest prices from $3.60 to $4.25.

An eclectic place that aims to please a wide range of appetites at very reasonable prices, Leucadia Pizzeria is open Mondays to Thursdays from 10:30 to 10:00, Fridays and Saturdays from 10:30 to 11, and Sundays from 11:30 to 9:30. It's no gourmet palace, but it is a long-established, smart eatery that offers wide choice of Italian food, adept service, and prices comfortable for your wallet.

There's nothing finer than having an early lunch (or late breakfast) at the Potao Shack, which serves from 7am-2pm weekdays and from 7am-2:30pm on Saturdays and Sundays. We picked out a table for two when we arrived around 11am - we chose one on the sidewalk, rather than any inside, as that area was full, and we prefered outside on a sunny day. Coffee arrived quickly and the server was attentive with two refills as we waited for our order. This is not fast food; everything is cooked after you order. My son had the Diplomat, a turkey and bacon sandwich on toasted sourdough bread (huge slices) accompanied by cajun potatoes(spicy swirls of the spud). I received the vegetarian burger with melted cheese(I selected Swiss) on a toasted bun and American potatoes(cubes of fried red rose potatoes).

Filling and very good, their sandwiches can be made with different kinds of cheeses, breads, or rolls. Similarly, there's lots of choices for their breakfast omelets, and their French toast orders come with blueberry or banana on top. Their massive pancakes cover a big plate. And all of their potatoes are cooked in canola oil only. This long-established, popular place is crowded at popular eating times, especially on weekends.

All kinds of people come here: young and old, and outside sat a few people with dogs. Two large black dogs were with their owners at the table next to ours; they were patiently waiting, on leashes (of course). Without staring, I noticed that one of the guys appeared to be tatooed all over - this was a typical sight.

When we got our bill for $17.08, we went inside to pay at the register. This place accepts cash, checks, or travellers checks, but no plastic. They are known to locals, many of whom are regulars, and the cute mural of potatoes on their outside wall is one of the landmarks in the downtown area.

Built on the former site of a lumberyard, this center has seen many ups and downs in the course of business over the years. Some shops have been here since the 60's- Birkenstocks, Paper Rose, Heaven on Earth, while others are new, replacements for shops that didn't survive the early 90's recession. Among the new is a Starbucks(inevitably), but also St. Tropez Bakery and Bistro, run by Provencal transplants, a husband and wife who provide locals with everything-from-scratch pastries, breads,croissants, paninis, quiches, omelettes, and salads - all with flair and at decent prices. Pastries from $1.80 to $4.00 encourage you to indulge and so do their quiches, served with French bread and a side of salad for $6.45, a terrific taste of France for lunch or breakfast.

A recent revamping of the central courtyard around which most shops are clustered has been executed (the place got pretty run-down there for a while), with a central fountain and colorful landscaping making eating outdoors at one of the congenial tables a pleasant way to lunch, or eat a luscious gelato. Browse The Third Bird, a shop with unusual coral sculptures, hand-painted Spanish fans, colorful candles, and assorted other off-beat gift items. Check out Beads, Crystals and More, or Heaven on Earth for Yoga, Feng Shui, Tarot, and astrological "material". These shops embody the spirit of the 60's that has not totally faded from the coastal Encinitas scene.

More conventional, but still in tune with this spirit, is Pacific Eyes & T's,for beach wear, and some other restaurants offering Italian (Pino's Cucina Italiana), Vietnamese (Kim's), and Japanese (Sakura Bana Sushi). Further north up the street are lots of other slightly funky shops dealing in used paperbacks and used clothing, as well as second-hand furniture and antiques, but The Lumberyard capsulizes the downtown Encinitas shopping scene and epitomizes its odd flavors.

My favorite place in downtown Encinitas is this beautiful, little garden,open free to the public on Tuesdays through Saturdays from 9-5 and on Sundays from 11-5. Hard to miss is the sight of the Gold Lotus spires of the adjacent Temple, as is the thrill of glancing over the cliff at the western edge of the gardens, to discover the sight of swarms of surfers "doing their stuff" on the surging waves of Swami's Beach just below. The Swami was Paramahansa Yogananda, who purchased this idyllic spot when Encinitas was a tiny spot on the map away north from San Diego. His followers in the area "surprised" him by constructing the temple in time for his visit to Encinitas in 1937.

Fittingly, they began this garden soon after, and built a small temple on its western edge, a temple which later tumbled into the sea, and was never replaced. Erosion presents a constant threat to the beaches of this area, and the construction of sea walls, as well as sand replenishment measures, have been controversial issues with locals. The sometimes conflicting needs of various groups- surfers versus tourists, for example, have fueled debate.

But, in the gardens with their koi-filled pools and religiously maintained landscaping and exotic plants, controvery seems far away. Everything is meticulously maintained, but never seems sterile or static. It's a great spot to unwind from the pace of exploration, it's usually occupied by just a few strollers or Temple members;it's a non-proselytizing spot although there is a bulletin board on the grounds with a list of Temple service times and a small book store affiliated with the Temple across the street from the gardens. It's a little slice of silence on the edge of the powerful Pacific.

According to local legend, this was THE beach for midnight picnics, skinny dipping, etc, in the past. Today, it's an ideal family beach with lots of activities and facilities to keep everyone happy. In summer,it's the hub-bub of family beach activity; surfers prefer Swami's in Cardiff or Beacon's in Leucadia. It's located only five blocks from the downtown Encinitas Coaster Station and, nearby, are many small restaurants from which you can take out picnic ingredients if you prefer.

This year's free Sunday concerts will present The Fabulous Fingertips on July 14(www.thefabulousfingertips.com)- they are a 6-10 person(varies with play dates) dance band group that plays Motown and R&B. Also with their own web sites are the Steal Dawn alternative rock group that will perform on August 11, and Kyng Arthur, who, as I judge from perusing his web site, is a follower of Robert Marley and the Rastafarian strain in West Indian music. Concert times are set early in the evening and on Sundays to accommodate family audiences. Locals pack these concerts, but visitors are welcome too.

Woodies rule! Celebrated by local artists,many of whom feature it in their art works, since 1999, it's the car most feted every third Thursday of each clement weather month in a series that gathers all interested Woodie owners to cruise, exhibit and compete for prizes at evening get-togethers downtown. Appropriately, the "prizes" are engraved Encinitas Beach rocks, to be awarded to the best-preserved, unique cars. And the awards have titles fitting their Encinitas origin-there's the Cardiff Reef Crown, the Beacon's Beauty, the Pipe's Pick, and the Moonlight Marvel-all named after a notable area beach.

As admirers inspect the cruising or standing cars which also include Custom, Street Rod ,and Muscle Car types, several local surfer bands play some good old "rock n'roll" and local restaurants remain open to cater to the needs of hungry or thirsty spectators and participants alike. On June 20, 2002, each third Thursday's fun begins, and entrants vie to be judged for best paint job, best interior, or best woodie, most prized of all. The San Diego Woodie's Club hosts this series which preps everyone for the largest woodie gatering in the world, which is the Wavecrest Woodie Festival in September. Local businesses sponsor the events which bring out the die-hard fans and the curious, among locals and tourists alike. We don't own a woodie or classic car, but enjoyed looking at these reminders from the past. Not incidentally, most sponsors are local garages and shops that cater to classic car restoration and maintenance, as well as local surfing establishments. The care these cars require is a tad expensive, but most of the owners appear delighted when you comment positively about them.

It's free for non-competitors; it's fun;it's something different to see and do on a lovely summer evening. Also billed as "Classic Summer Nights," this promotion of the preservation of old cars has a web site: click here. It's just another bit of the tendency to hang on to the colorful 60's past despite change. This year, a newly renovated downtown area will be more congenial than ever for this event because several circular, stone benches have been interspersed along the Highway and will provide rest stops for those viewing the exhibits. These additions are most welcome for those who just want to see the cars and do not want to dine at any of the restaurants.

Oldest theater in Encinitas, this single screen remnant hosts a "Rocky Horror Picture Show" screening every Friday night at midnight. Currently, they are showing "Dogtown and Z Boys" at 7p.m. and 9 p.m. during the week. Alternative, it is! A study of their posters outside revealed their current emphasis on select foreign-language films and documentaries, notably on skateboarding and snowboarding, two locally popular sports. This theater is the one most likely to premier the latest surfing film as an audience for that kind of film is almost a surety in this community.

More notable for its Spanish architecture with hand-painted tiles on its facade and for its history as one of the first small, non-big-city theaters to show talkie films, since its opening on February 11, 1928, the La Paloma has had a chequered career that has mirrored the ups and downs of Hollywood cinematic production rather faithfully. Surviving several threatened closures, it remains a tiny senora slightly soiled, yet boasting traces of elegance with its high ceilings, ornate drapery and pipe-organ, a relic of the silent days.

In the past, Eddie Vedder of Pearl Jam (an Encinitas native son) and Jerry Garcia have both graced its stage of this intimate, less than 400 seat theater in concerts in the 70's. A local subcriber film society often has showings of non-major-studio films of importance here with artists' receptions for members interested in meeting a director or actor associated with the film, usually held at a local spot before their viewing of the film at the La Paloma. Certainly, it's worth a look-see on any stroll downtown, and, if you're into nostalgia, you can always get a ticket for "Rocky," if you can avoid sleep till the wee hours. My son has, and and said it's a unique experience.

On Thursday August 15,2002,this 13th annual international food festival will be held, along with the "Rods & Woodies," scheduled for that night. Very popular,this event is limited capacity. Only 900 passes are available for sale at a modest $15.00. The "pass" is on a necklace and is an "Open Sesame;" as you stroll along, you can choose to visit one or more of about 30 area restaurants and get samples of select items from their menus. What's exciting is that about a dozen of this year's restaurants are new to the festival, so you can sample and decide where you'd like to have a full meal later on during the year.

It's a great way of discovering new restaurants that you might like, rather like having a coupon to try something new, only better as your tastebuds can do some "reality testing". In the background there'll be a variety of local bands on your route, as well as special events for the kids. At the Coast Highway Traders, a local shop that sells exotic gifts, children can enjoy storytelling and poetry readings. At the El Callejon restaurant the John Compton Duo will play acoustical classical rock from 6:30 to 8:30.

At the DEMA office at 818 S. Coast Highway, Steve White will be playin' the blues during the same hours. At the Lumberyard shopping mall, Live Salsa will have the spectators swaying in the courtyard. Each year, this event sells out, because it's fun,the price is cheap, and the samples are often very generous. For example,this year, Leucadia Pizzeria is offering a slice of pizza, Caesar salad, and TIRAMISU -- some sample! On the list of restaurants are a lot of my favorites that I've already written about (Potato Shack, Vigilucci's,El Callejon)as well as Trattoria I Trulli, Gaffney's Wine Bar, St. Germain Cafe, When in Rome, Rosanna's, and a new, just-opened-last-month restaurant called Meritage, which is located in The Lumberyard and run by owners of a distinguished Del Mar restaurant called Sbicca. Tickets are sold at the DEMA office above,phone 760-943-1950.