Maui - Embassy Resort and beyond ** UPDATED! **

Hey, it's Maui. The beach, the water, the pools, the mountains, the flowers, the people and the culture -- enjoy it all!

Quick Tips:

Relax! You're on Maui!

If you take the trip to Hana, go on a tour. They know the best places and you'll enjoy the scenery a lot more if someone else is driving!

Check out the places where the locals go - a plate lunch hole-in-the-wall, a beach where the cars in the lot are all beaters, a small park on a Sunday afternoon, even the mall. Sometimes the best places aren't the fanciest ones.

Best Way To Get Around:

Walk where you can -- Lahaina town, Napili, and on the great hiking trails. But otherwise, you'll need a car. Get a convertible if you must, but the best car we ever had was a rent-a-dent Corolla with a missing hubcap - everyone assumed we were locals!

** 4/30/03 UPDATE! ** We normally rent with Dollar and have found them fast and efficient with a platoon of agents at their office. We rented with National this time because they had a special miles deal going with Northwest. We were quite surprised to find their office staffed by one lone agent! Fortunately, there was only one other party in front of us. But it's probably real slow on a busy day.

** 4/30/03 UPDATE! ** See the "free-form" entry elsewhere in this journal.

The EVR is an excellent choice for accommodations on Maui, serving both the timeshare crowd and people looking for the services of a hotel. The rooms are huge, with a 35" TV, foldout sofa, eating area, and kitchenette in the living area, king bed in the bedroom, and large bath with two vanities, separate shower and tub, and toilet with it's own door for additional privacy. The closet between the bathroom and bedroom has mirrored doors on both sides. There's a small balcony accessible from both the bedroom and living area. The kitchenette has a small frig, microwave, sink and dishwasher. There's no range, but hey, you're on vacation on Maui, you're not cooking!

The pool area is definitely the highlight of the outdoor facilities. We found ourselves spending quite a bit of time here. The kids love the water slide which empties into the shallow kiddie pool, and there's a spa as well. Can't think of a better way to spend the day than reading a book in a lounge chair by the pool and having one of the pleasant servers from the bar bring me a club sandwich and a pina colada!

Another neat thing for kids is the mini-golf course on the roof just off the second floor. It costs a couple of bucks to play and as courses go, it's not too challenging (unless the wind is blowing!), but it's a great after-dinner diversion.

The EVR also features the "free" breakfast and happy hour that Embassy Suites in known for. I say "free" because it is indeed included in the price if you're a hotel guest. Timeshare guests pay $70/week for your whole group, which is still a good deal. Both the breakfast and the happy hour have an "assembly line" feel to them but the food is good (although not "cooked to order" like at the regular Embassy hotels) and while the drink selection is limited pretty much to beer, wine, or mai tai, there is no limit, either. Someone commented that the bartenders aren't friendly but in this setup, they don't really have time to chit-chat. Go down to the poolside bar if you need some sympathy and advice. We usually grab a couple of mai-tais each and a bowl of munchies and head back to the pool.

The restaurants at the EVR are OK but not great. Stick with the sandwiches at the poolside grill and you won't be disappointed. The restaurant features a different buffet menu every night -- if you're really hungry, it's not a bad deal but we felt like we didn't want to eat that much to justify the cost (guests can get a discount card that helps).

During the morning, the lobby is crawling with timeshare salespersons, and while they'd be glad to try to sell you a timeshare, I've found them to be fairly low-key compared to other places.

We've also stayed at Napili Shores which has studio, 1, and 2 bedroom condos and is run by Outrigger for the condo owners. Our ground floor 1 bedroom condo had a queen bed, standard bathroom, a full kitchen, living area and small patio. Instead of a foldout sofa, there were two single day-bed type sofas that were quite comfortable.

There are two average size pools, one of which is in a beautiful spot just above Napili Bay. The coved beach of Napili Bay is one of the best in the area for swimming and snorkeling, and is never crowded.

Two restaurants are on-site and both are excellent. The restaurant serves Thai food and also has a sushi bar. The Gazebo restaurant near the pool and Napili Bay (see picture) is one of the local favorites for breakfast. Try the macadamia nut and pineapple pancakes. Be prepared to wait in line for a table, but it's worth it!

This is a very relaxing place to stay in one of the more uncrowded areas of Maui.

Best Things Nearby:
McDonalds, Roy's, and the Outback Steakhouse are within walking distance.

It's on the beach.

Best Things About the Resort:
It was cheap(er) than other condos in the area.

Resort Experience:
Lastly, we've also stayed at the Valley Isle condos in the Kahana area. We got the condo pretty cheaply from someone trying to dump their time. It was OK with a small bedroom with queen bed, a pull down murphy bed in the living area, standard bathroom, and full kitchen. There was a nice view from the balcony.

The beach here is not as nice as at Kaanapali or Napili but it's still Maui! The pool was rather small and utilitarian. The kids enjoyed it, though.

The thing I remember most about this condo was the wind! There was a small louvered section on the front door and if we didn't have that open to let the wind pass through, it took all my strength just to open the door and then it would slam with tremendous force! Yikes!

There are nicer places to stay in Kahana, like the Sands of Kahana next door. But if you get the place cheap like we did, then it's not bad.

• Unit Type: 1 Bedroom
• Activities: Fair
• Amenities: Fair
• Unit Satisfaction: Good
• Family Friendliness: Very Good
• Service: Very Good

Even though we got our tickets for free for sitting through a timeshare presentation, I'd pay ($45 adults, $25 kids) to see this show. It's fabulous!

This story of Hawaii's history told through music, dance, and acrobatics is presented in an intimate, beautiful theatre. There is not a bad seat anywhere.

And kids love it! Our 11-year-old was fascinated and never bored. When one of the ancient warriors sat down next to him on the aisle and gave him the giant eye stare that is given as a challenge to other warriors, he was enthralled. He even plays the CD of Ulalena music from time to time.

I could tell you more but instead check out this excellent web-site: http://www.mauitheatre.com

By all means, go! You won't be disappointed!

Whatever you do, go on a snorkel boat! Some people prefer taking a boat that goes out to Molokini but you usually have to get up early, it's a longer boat ride, and it costs more.

With kids, we preferred a more low key, less expensive boat that leaves from the marina in Lahaina and stays pretty much in the area around Lahaina. We don't have a particular favorite but find one that has underwater viewing. The ones we've been on always have good snacks and a friendly and helpful crew.

We bring our own snorkel stuff but they all usually have lots of gear for all ages.

The first time we went, we saw lots of fish, including the humuhumnukunukapuaa (hope I spelled that right!). But the real thrill was when mother and child turtles suddenly appeared and swam with my wife and son!

Our second time out, the water was kind of churned up and the snorkeling was not too good. But suddenly, the captain spotted dolphins and whales and next thing we knew, we had several dolphins swimming off our bow and a pair of whales surfacing near us. The kids went nuts!

Molokini is fabulous but don't hesitate to try the cheaper alternatives.

When Haleakala is in the clouds, there are other places to check out in the Upcountry/Kula area. Our two favorite low-key places to visit are the Tedeschi Winery and the Kula Botanical Gardens.

The Tedeschi Winery is actually located in the Ulupalakua area past Kula. The drive to the winery features many terrific views and a landscape very different from other areas of Maui. The winery grounds are beautiful and have a wonderful history. You can read about it at click here or hear about it on the winery tour. The free tours are given daily at 10:30 and 1:30. The tours end, of course, at the tasting room where you can sample their variety of wines. OK, now don't expect wine that compares to a Mondavi Cabernet or Chardonnay, but the Maui Blanc pineapple wine is an excellent picnic wine. These are not wines for the cellar. Buy them and drink them! They will also package them for you for the trip home. The wines cost about the same as you'd pay for them in the grocery stores.

As you head back towards Kula, look for a sign for the Kula Botanical Gardens located on Upper Kula Road, a k a Kekaulike Avenue, a k a Highway 377. It's easy to miss. But if you find it, you won't be disappointed. For $5 ($1 for kids), you can wander this beautiful 5 acre garden that features thousand of plants and flowers, pools, a gazebo, a Koa tree, and even some caged lizards. One of the owner's cats followed us around as well. Umbrellas are available at the beginning of the garden path, which we took advantage of as there was a light mist falling when we first toured the grounds. The rain didn't detract from our enjoyment -- if anything it added to the ambiance.

For an interesting article on the Botanical Gardens from the Honolulu Star-Bulletin, see: click here.

We ended this low-key day with a late lunch at the Kula Lodge which has excellent homemade sandwiches and salads and a beautiful view of the surrounding countryside. Take a few minutes and stroll their grounds as well.

For something different and relaxing, don't miss this part of Maui.

Randy and I left the wives and kids by the pool to go check out the Iao Valley and the famous Iao Needle. The drive up the Iao Valley Rd was beautiful but like all popular attractions in Hawaii, nice drives eventually wind up in parking lots full of tour buses and unfortunately the Iao Valley State Park is no exception. After circling the lot a few times we secured a spot. The turnover of visitors is fairly rapid so you shouldn't have any trouble getting a spot even at peak times.

The grounds are immaculately maintained and although we were a little disappointed that our "hike" turned out to be not much more that a leisurely stroll, the view of the Iao Needle rock formation is beautiful. It's easy to see why this is a sacred spot.

As we backtracked on Iao Valley Rd., we stopped at Kepaniwai Park and what a great little find it turned out to be. This park is dedicated to all of Hawaii's people and features several buildings from different cultures including a Hawaiian grass shack, a Portuguese Villa, and a New England salt box, among others. We were there on the weekend when the park is definitely a favorite of the locals not to mention the wedding party that was being photographed.

Intent on doing some more exploring, Randy and I decided to return back to the Embassy Resort via the north road where up to few years ago, rental cars feared (and were forbidden) to go. What a spectacular drive! The road twists and turns -- watch out for oncoming cars and falling rock or you might find yourself plummeting off a cliff. Fortunately, there are no tour buses to contend with here. The views are incredible and the small towns are best described as "sleepy". The drive is longer than it looks on the map so make sure you have enough gas. We stopped several times along the way to drink in the views. Once we reached Fleming Park and civilization we took a quick detour through Kapalua and Napili to see how the rich folk were doing. Personally, I preferred the remoteness of the road we just traveled instead.

** See 4/30/03 UPDATES! **

There are unlimited dining opportunites in Maui. Here are some of our favorites (and a few clunkers):

Burger King, Downtown Lahaina -- If you want a Whopper, you might as well get it in this funky BK across the street from the famous banyan tree.

Whaler's Village -- The Hula Grill and Leilani's are fine (especially the beachside outdoor seating at the Hula), but STAY AWAY FROM THE RUSTY HARPOON unless you like high prices, mediocre food, and slow service. We put up with it once because we were starved and they had the ball game on the TV, but the second time we left before the water was even served. ** UPDATE** -- Leilani's and Hula Grill are still very good. Lighter fare outside by the beach is still preferable to the inside, fancier menu. In the food court, Mr. Sub has excellent sandwiches (a lot more meat than Subway!). Pizza Paradiso is comparable to their Honokowai location. Avoid the Korean BBQ place. McDonald's is there, too, if the kids need a happy meal. Limited seating.

A Pacific Cafe -- Excellent! This is our favorite dining experience on Maui by far! The restaurant is in the shopping area across the street from the Embassy Resort and features casually elegant local cuisine. Fresh seafood, great service, moderate prices make this a real winner. And the kids liked it too! ** UPDATE! ** Unfortunately the Honokowai location is now closed. There is another location in Kihei but we didn't get a chance to check it out.

Subway and Pizza Paradiso -- Both of these are also across the street from the Embassy. Subway was a welcome alternative to the higher priced hotel fare - just right to bring back to poolside. Pizza Paradiso has great pizza plus a few salads and pastas. They also have ice cream. The kids really enjoyed this place but it's fairly small and the pizza ovens heat the place up, but still a fun place. ** UPDATE ** Both still good values for takeout back to the pool.

Napili -- Check out Napili Shores either at the Gazebo for breakfast or their other restaurant (sorry the name escapes me) for sushi and Thai food. The Sea House restaurant on Napili Bay is a short walk on the beach from Napili Shores and is also very good.

Tourist traps -- Bubba Gumps and Moose McGillicuddy's both in downtown Lahaina. Crowded but surprisingly good and the kids loved both of them. Gumps has a nice waterfront location and is reasonably priced. ** UPDATE! ** Went to Bubba Gumps again because our son really likes the Coconut shrimp. The Mahi Mahi in lemon garlic sauce over rice is also very good. Still a fun place in a great location.

Maui Tacos -- the one in the Napili Marketplace is the best of the ones we've been to.

Food Courts -- The one in the Maui Mall is very good, while the one in the Lahaina Cannery is so-so. ** UPDATE ** The food court at Lahaina Cannery Mall is much improved. Try the Orange Chicken (if fresh) at Chopsticks Express or a Gyro at the greek place. Good place to grab a (fairly) cheap dinner and watch the free Polynesian show on Thursday nights.

Kula Lodge -- A great place for lunch with an excellent view overlooking the Kula farming area. Go later in the day after all the Haleakela bikers have been there and it will be a lot more relaxing. Order a sandwich on their homemade bread or a salad using local greens and produce.

** 4/30/03 UPDATE! ** Here's my original report with some updates:

The EVR is an excellent choice for accommodations on Maui, serving both the timeshare crowd and people looking for the services of a hotel. The rooms are huge, with a 35" TV, foldout sofa, eating area, and kitchenette in the living area, king bed in the bedroom, and large bath with two vanities, separate shower and tub, and toilet with it's own door for additional privacy. The closet between the bathroom and bedroom has mirrored doors on both sides. There's a small balcony accessible from both the bedroom and living area. The kitchenette has a small frig, microwave, sink and dishwasher. There's no range, but hey, you're on vacation on Maui, you're not cooking! ** UPDATE! ** The large TVs, stereo, and dishwashers have been updated in the timeshare rooms.

The pool area is definitely the highlight of the outdoor facilities. We found ourselves spending quite a bit of time here. The kids love the water slide which empties into the shallow kiddie pool, and there's a spa as well. Can't think of a better way to spend the day than reading a book in a lounge chair by the pool and having one of the pleasant servers from the bar bring me a club sandwich and a pina colada! ** UPDATE! ** No more club sandwich on the menu. Had to switch to chicken caesar salad.

Another neat thing for kids is the mini-golf course on the roof just off the second floor. It costs a couple of bucks to play and as courses go, it's not too challenging (unless the wind is blowing!), but it's a great after-dinner diversion. ** UPDATE! ** Golf now costs $5/hr for adults, $2.50/hour for kids.

The EVR also features the "free" breakfast and happy hour that Embassy Suites in known for. I say "free" because it is indeed included in the price if you're a hotel guest. Timeshare guests pay $70/week for your whole group, which is still a good deal. Both the breakfast and the happy hour have an "assembly line" feel to them but the food is good (although not "cooked to order" like at the regular Embassy hotels) and while the drink selection is limited pretty much to beer, wine, or mai tai, there is no limit, either. Someone commented that the bartenders aren't friendly but in this setup, they don't really have time to chit-chat. Go down to the poolside bar if you need some sympathy and advice. We usually grab a couple of mai-tais each and a bowl of munchies and head back to the pool. ** UPDATE! ** Maui liquor laws no longer let you take cocktails from the lounge area to the pool (can't go through the lobby with booze, I guess). Also, no bacon at breakfast!

The restaurants at the EVR are OK but not great. Stick with the sandwiches at the poolside grill and you won't be disappointed. The restaurant features a different buffet menu every night -- if you're really hungry, it's not a bad deal but we felt like we didn't want to eat that much to justify the cost (guests can get a discount card that helps). ** UPDATE! ** There is a new chef at the North Beach Grille so they no longer have a nightly buffet but now serve the standard restaurant fare. We didn't eat there but we heard several folks say the quality has improved. The nachos from the bar menu still suck, but the burgers, sandwiches, and salad are all decent. The drinks and smoothies (for the kids) are excellent! Try a Molokai Monkey!

During the morning, the lobby is crawling with timeshare salespersons, and while they'd be glad to try to sell you a timeshare, I've found them to be fairly low-key compared to other places. ** UPDATE! ** We received $100 credit for activities just for "checking in" with the sales rep who sold us our timeshare 4 years ago. He was still very low-key with no attempt to pressure us into any additional buying.