Inspiring Cornwall

An April 2002 trip to Cornwall by bonvivant

You need a car, and cannot be intimidated driving on the "other side" or on single track roads, to enjoy Cornwall. Our homebase was in Praze-an-Beeble. From there, we took day trips covering all the highlights. We marveled at gorgeous coastlines, charming harbour towns, mysterious moors, castles and lovely gardens.

  • 6 reviews
There are many "don't miss" spots in Cornwall, including spectacular Tintagel Castle, Trevone Bay, Trevose head, Lizard Point and Land's End which provide awe-inspiring coastal scenery. Padstow is a charming harbour town and home to world class chef Rick Stein's restaurants: St. Petroc's Bistro, The Seafood Restaurant, and Rick's Cafe. Truly a gourmet's delight! Other charming little seaports include Looe, Perranporth, Polperro, St. Agnes, Boscastle and Mevagissey. Mousehole -- pronounced Mowzel, with its winding, little roads is true to its name. St. Ives has it all: beautiful beaches, cobblestone streets, shops and cafes, and beaucoup art galleries including the Tate! Falmouth offers Pendennis Castle (a defensive fort) and the landmark Greenbank Hotel (Grahame began Wind in the Willows here). St. Michael's Mount is a breathtakingly beautiful castle near Penzance. Truro cathedral is impressive, but see the small, lovely parish churches in Zennor (home to the Mermaid bench), Mylor, Bodmin and St. Just in Roseland. There are lush gardens like Trebah and the Lost Gardens of Heligan. Walk the Bodmin Moors and see mysterious stone structures as Cheesewring and the Hurlers, and remnants of the tin mining engine houses.

Quick Tips:

Two weeks allowed us just about the right time to see most of what we had read about in Cornwall's tour guides. If you rent a car at Heathrow, as we did, be sure to stop at Stonehenge on the way back.

Make your reservations at Rick Stein's well in advance. But also dine at the Bluefish Restaurant in St. Ives -- it rivals Stein.

We just missed Obby Oss Day -- May 1 -- a unique annual folk fesitval in the streets of Padstow. But note Rick Stein closes his restaurants that day! Natural beauty and history abound in inspiring Cornwall, but there are also yummy local treats to eat: Cornish pasties, cream teas and Scrumpy (hard cider). We did not like the Cornish red wine, however -- stick to French or South African, both readily available at the grocery stores!

Best Way To Get Around:

As mentioned, you need a car to get from place to place. Once in a town, however, park and walk. It's the best way to see things and most "city centers" are manageable by foot, if you are in reasonably good shape and good health. We saw tour buses, but not a single taxi.

Clowance Estate and Country ClubBest of IgoUgo

Hotel | "Clowance Estates"

Best Things Nearby:
Clowance is centrally located -- everything wonderful in Cornwall is within an hour or so drive -- Lizard Point, St. Ives, Land's End, St. Michael's Mount, Mousehole, Falmouth, St. Mawes, Mylor, Bodmin and the moors. Tintagel is a couple hours, but well worth it.

Best Things About the Resort:
Location. Grounds.

Resort Experience:
Clowance is a country estate. The grounds are very, very pretty. It has a small lake with swans, a forest with walking paths and a well manicured golf course. The unit we had was a one bedroom in the Coach House. It was comfortable but the living area small, and we missed having large windows to view the lovely grounds. We felt a little closed in; a patio home or golf lodge home may have provided better views to the outside. The leisure center was fine, as was the bar. The restaurant had good food but couldn't be classed as fine dining; plus, it was just off the bar in the leisure center (not a separate building).

  • Unit Type: 1 Bedroom
  • Activities: Fair
  • Amenities: Fair
  • Unit Satisfaction: Fair
  • Family Friendliness: Good
  • Service: Good
  • Member Rating 2 out of 5 by bonvivant on May 10, 2002

Clowance Estate and Country Club
Praze-an-Beeble Cornwall, England TR14 0PT
1209-831111

St. Petroc's BistroBest of IgoUgo

Restaurant

St. Petroc's is called a Bistro, but clearly is a fine dining experience. It serves primarily fresh, wonderful seafood, cooked simply but superbly. I had mouth-watering moules mariniere and rocket risotto. My husband's fillet of sea bass with slivers of garlic and chili was to die for. The wine list is good with some reasonable options. The service is very good, casual and friendly. The atmosphere is really nice. A very pretty, bright room, artsy/contemporary (within a lovely old building) with white tablecloths and fresh flowers. Our window table was framed with lovely blue flowering vines. We retired to the lounge for coffee, and sunk into super comfortable sofas. An excellent, excellent experience from beginning to end.
  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by bonvivant on May 10, 2002

St. Petroc's Bistro
4 New Street Cornwall, England
01841 532 700

The Blue Fish is fabulous. In addition to scrumptious food, it's location is just great. It is on the second floor. From the outside terrace or from inside the main dining area you gaze out over the quaint roofs of St. Ives to the tourquoise water and white sand beaches. The Blue Fish has two chefs, we ate there twice and John was our chef both times. He is awesome. The fresh figs stuffed with mozzarella and wrapped in prosciutto were gloriously delicious. All courses were fresh, innovative and beautifully presented. The service is casual but very, very good -- attentive and friendly. Louise was happy to take a souvenir picture for us!

We would go back often; as mentioned during our two week holiday we made sure we went at least twice.

  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by bonvivant on May 10, 2002

Blue Fish Restaurant
Norway Lane Cornwall, England
(01736) 794204

The Seafood Restaurant is Rick Stein's flagship. He also has St.Petroc's Bistro and Rick Stein's Cafe in the same town. The Seafood Restaurant is very upscale fine dining. You must make reservations weeks, maybe months, in advance. The service is very good. Several attentive servers are at your beck and call. The complimentary appetizers were superb -- delicious olives, and the chef's specially prepared moules. I had grilled lobster which tasted wonderful, but was a bit rich for my stomach. The simple green salad had a particularly nice flavored oil on it. Dessert of freshly baked beignets and chocolate melted in one's mouth. The dining room is very, very nice. Open, airy, contemporary interior within a lovely, old stone structure. Everything about The Seafood Restaurant is upscale including the price; but it is worth it. The glassed in terrace on the front of the dining room was a lovely place for coffee.
  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by bonvivant on May 10, 2002

The Seafood Restaurant
Riverside Cornwall, England
01841 532700

King Arthur's Legendary BirthplaceBest of IgoUgo

Attraction | "Tintagel Castle"

Tintagel is awe-inspiring. Its coastal beauty is unsurpassed. The history pervading the site is also nifty. Visions of King Arthur, Knights of the Roundtable, Merlyn, etc. fill your head as you walk the ruins of castle from days of old. The day we were there in mid April it was beautiful -- sunny, clear, mid-60's -- we felt we were in a peaceful, paradise. Very few vistors were there this time of year. It was perfect, something we will always remember and reflect on as "special."

You might also go to Slaughterbridge, down the road near Camelford, where legend has it Arthur was brought down; you can view Arthur's Stone after a pretty walk through a wooded forest along a small stream. Not too far, near the Jamaica Inn, is Dozmary Pool, where Excalibur was returned to the Lady of the Lake. The 3 sites will give you a satisfying flavor of Arthurian legend.

  • Member Rating 4 out of 5 by bonvivant on May 10, 2002

King Arthur's Legendary Birthplace
Castle Road Cornwall, England

About the Writer

bonvivant
bonvivant
San Jose, California

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