I went to Quebec without a clue what the city was about. It was really just an impulse stop on the long drive through Canada on the way from Michigan to Maine. I only spent one day there and with no agenda of tours, exhibits, or activities. Ann and I just wandered through the cobbled streets and narrow alleys of the east end of town which is where all the tourist events, historical old town, and the port are located. Quebec is divided into an upper section where the castle, the citadel, and the Parc de Champs-de-Bataille sit on a steep bluff overlooking the St. Lawrence river and lower Quebec where narrow, shop-lined alleys wind in a maze between the port and the steep incline leading to the rest
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The whole area is very tourist friendly. It seemed that every block there was at least one 'Tourist Information' sign. I was worried about my rusty French but it seemed there was no need for it. As soon as I stumbled through a few syllables I was spotted for an English speaker and everyone was willing to speak English with me. The architecture of the city would be enough to bring you back to the 1800's if there weren't crowds of modern, vacationing families taking photos and pushing strollers along the narrow sidewalk. Quite a few people were in costume and we saw a few parades and theater troupes on the streets. All the sits were in French but still fun to watch.
The things I enjoyed most about historic Quebec were the veranda restaurants and sidewalk cafes. There are dozens of dining choices in upper Quebec and almost every one has outdoor seating or at least tables next to open European windows. Food was expensive and not fantastic. I'm sure if you looked around and were willing to spend some money you could find good food, but most of the places were more about setting and atmosphere than quisine. We hustled into a portside café when a sudden shower broke loose in the afternoon and sat for a while sipping barista drinks and watching the rain fall. Tables were pushed together where a few guys were having a beer, smoking cigarettes, and talking in an excited manner, waving their arms to express the vastness of their French discussion. The windows were open and the bartender leaned against the dark wood of the bar tapping out the rhythm of music playing quietly in the background.
The streets are narrow and mostly for pedestrians. Parking is difficult to find and expensive, especially at the meters. It's best to park outside the city wall and commit to walking for the rest of the day. There are great trails through the parks and a lovely terrace that winds around the bluff from the citadel to lower Quebec. Be prepared to hike some staircases between upper and lower or just take the cable car that runs up and down the steep hill (but not for free). If you get tired of walking you can always flag down one of the many horse carriages for a ride around town, but they stay in Upper Quebec.
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