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The U.S. Virgin Islands: a Healthy Getaway

pepperpot

After subsisting for 4 years on ramen and mac’n’cheese, IgoUgo Editorial Assistant pepperpot was long overdue for a tune-up when she went to the U.S. Virgin Islands to celebrate college graduation. Now, of course, she’s back on the couch, watching old movies and munching M&M’s.

Whether you’re downing enough mai tais to drown a horse, pigging out at an all-inclusive resort buffet, or basking in the UV rays like a beached whale, tropical getaways aren’t exactly known for their healthfulness. So if you want to come back from your stay in paradise sporting a healthy glow, you’ve got two choices: become a permanent fixture at the resort fitness center—or seek out a spot that has more to offer than tiki bars and sun loungers.

For that, look no further than the U.S. Virgin Islands. St. Thomas, groaning under the weight of an international airport and the busy cruise dock of Charlotte Amalie, is your typical souvenir-shot-glass sort of place—but the two other islands, St. John and St. Croix, have a lot to offer besides the obligatory dazzling beaches and tourist meccas.

St. John is touted as the quietest of the three islands—nearly three-quarters of it is national park, which means dozens of hiking trails and gorgeous secluded beaches. And for those who like their diversions a little more lively, the town of Cruz Bay has great restaurants and a happening nightlife.

Forty miles south across the sea, the large island of St. Croix is the USVI’s so-out-it’s-in misfit. The beautifully preserved colonial towns of Christiansted and Frederiksted count as its main attractions, and you’ll also find wonderful trails for hiking, mountain biking, or horseback riding. But as far as I’m concerned, St. Croix’s best feature is its genuine, vibrant feel—the unmistakable aura of a thriving local culture.

And as for me? After 10 fabulous days of swimming, snorkeling, kayaking, hiking, and chilling out, a healthy glow was only the beginning: I came back relaxed, revitalized—and 10 pounds slimmer. Now that’s a vacation!

The U.S. Virgin Islands at a Glance

Location: The U.S. Virgin Islands make up half of the Virgin Islands chain, with the British Virgin Islands rounding out the other half. The Virgins lie on the dividing line between the Greater Antilles to the west and the Lesser Antilles to the south; the closest major island is Puerto Rico.

Getting There: The main airport for the USVI is in Charlotte Amalie on St. Thomas. Direct flights there from major North American cities can certainly be found, though more often there will be a connection at San Juan. Check out the Virgin Islands Port Authority website for a full list of airlines serving the islands.

St. John is only a short ferry ride away from St. Thomas; St. Croix, 40 miles to the south, has its own airport. If you’re in the mood for excitement, take a seaplane to St. Croix from St. Thomas via the USVI’s own Seaborne Airlines.

When to Go: Trade winds keep the Virgins cooler and less humid throughout the year than many of their neighbors in the Caribbean, though it does average a few degrees cooler in the winter—say, mid-70s Fahrenheit instead of mid-80s. During “the season”—December through May—accommodations can sell out months in advance and are 30% more expensive on average; so if you’re on a budget, do as I did and go in the summertime instead.

Where to Stay: Because resources are limited on the islands, “sustainable tourism” is the name of the game. Skip the luxurious resorts and try an eco-resort instead, such as Maho Bay Camps on St. John. I had a blast staying in one of their famous tent-cottages, and IgoUgo member Jose Kevo can tell you all about their cushier accommodation options, Harmony Studios and Concordia Eco-Tents.

St. Croix’s own version of Maho, Mt. Victory Camps, is just getting started. While the main attraction at Mt. Victory is its beautiful “tent-platforms” made from native wood, it’s worth stopping by just to experience their awesome jungle bar!

For more information, check out the U.S. Virgin Islands Department of Tourism website.

IgoUgo's Best of the U.S. Virgin Islands

Make Waves: Best Snorkeling and Kayaking

  • Hands down, the best snorkeling I found was at Buck Island off St. Croix. Its gorgeous beach and incredible reef—a sprawling maze of coral, complete with underwater snorkeling trail—make it a wildly popular charter-boat destination; IgoUgo member jrheimbach raves about Big Beard Adventures.
  • On St. John, you’ll find a thriving reef at Whistling Cay, a tiny islet off Francis Bay on the north shore. I liked it so much I went there twice, first in the daytime by kayak and then again the next evening for some night snorkeling.
  • Francis Bay itself is also a great place for snorkeling. The calm waters and abundant sea life make it ideal for kids, and its long, white crescent of beach is blissfully uncrowded.
  • When your legs get tired from all that snorkeling, give ‘em a rest and work out your upper body instead with a kayaking tour at Salt River Bay on St. Croix. Get tour operator extraordinaire Sweeny Toussaint to drive you there and you’ll get an earful of interesting facts about the island on the way!

Hit the Trail: Best Hiking

  • guided walk on St. Croix with the amazing Ras Lumumba Corriette was the highlight of my trip. Local history, botany, bush medicine—his running commentary of intriguing trivia will make you forget the pain in your legs as you struggle through one of his trademark cross-country rambles, which also get top marks from IgoUgo member Jose Kevo.
  • Getting up a steep mountain in the tropical heat may be a forbidding prospect, but getting down one shouldn’t be much of a problem for anyone. A good ploy for taking on St. John’s more challenging hikes, such as the Cinnamon Bay Trail, is to drive to the trail’s uppermost point and hike down from there.

Chill Out: Best Ways to Relax and Recharge

  • St. Croix’s Avalon Retreat Center boasts a lovely setting, comfortable accommodations, and an array of relaxation options—yoga, massage, meditation, you name it. And the food here is über-healthy. I even tried a juice made from freshly picked wild grasses—it smelled like a just-mown lawn!
  • On St. John, the ultra-deluxe Caneel Bay Resort has a Self-Centre set high on a hill with a stunning view of the bay below. A “sampler session” of the center’s relaxation classes got rave reviews from everyone in my group—we were so relaxed by the end that we could hardly stand up!
  • For some true relaxation, island-style, you can’t beat a sunset sail. The islands are at their most striking in the late-afternoon sun, and there’s nothing like being out on a boat in a gorgeous setting to bring on a glorious sense of well-being. My sunset snorkel/sail on the dazzling catamaran Allura was pure bliss.

More on the U.S. Virgin Islands